[Pacro]

Originally Posted by E92_William

What build date is that valve? It usually will say something like 08 meaning 2008 in the back or whatever.

There are 3 sets of lettering on the case

First one is by the plug and it says

(BMW circle logo) 7 560
538 (560538 are the last 6 numbers of the part number for the small disa according to RealOEM)

Second set of letters say


MAHLE
FILTERSYSTEMS
ESK 002


Third one is stamped on the back of the case and it reads

07 053 072430

[Pacro]

Originally Posted by E92_William

That video I need to take it down. It was made to follow up on a thread here to show the valves can be actuated and tested on a stock 328 as the signal does get to them. However the valves there don't work correctly and had to be rebuilt as they were toast. After rebuilding they fully opened and closed. It is misleading as it can make someone think the valves are supposed to work that way.

I can't know how the b25 engine disas work but I'd almost bet that with a new good valve it would fully open and close with both cables. And they're the same part number as the b30 disas

So having them go to the 1/2 position means they are shot

[E92_William]

Your valve is from 2007 and that explains why the internals have likely been damaged with oil over time. First number at the back of the valve in the opposite side of the flap stands for the build year.

This video shows how the valves should behave when working perfectly. Don't mind the cable and clamp as one is an extension to test valves and the other to keep the housing together as I'm working on it.

[Pacro]

Is there a way to rebuild this disa or is it kaput

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Everything I've seen In the diagnostics and calibration files indicates the disa valves are either open or closed.

Stored values are 0 or 1. Nothing in between.

It would be nice to gradually open or close the valves. This would allow a tuner to remove the infamous Disa bump in the torque curve.

He's doing it before the tune isn't he? Its never going to close with the stock 328i DME program. It'll only be truly a test when he actually flashes it.

[Pacro]

So here's a clip of my small disa plugged into its plug, as you can see it closes half way during idle and before 2500ish rpm, when I hit 2500~3000tpm it will open all the way. Revved it several times and it will repeat the same action each time.

I tried to get a clip of it plugged into the large disa plug but I apparently didnt press the record button. But when.plugged into the large disa.plug it reacts the same when started up, half closed. And return to full open when shut off

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

He's doing it before the tune isn't he? Its never going to close with the stock 328i DME program. It'll only be truly a test when he actually flashes it.

I had no problems testing my Disa valves without a flash. Tested both before swapping the manifold.

I drove on the 3IM a manifold for a a few months before we leaned how to flash the higher Powerclass file.

[F31B48]

I tested mine before flashing and they worked fine. You need a new DISA or try rebuild this one. I've rebuilt a few. There are videos on how to rebuild them. It's probably full of oil.

[E92_William]

We'd have to get someone to double check on their stock 328 with a good working valve but I'm pretty sure they fully actuate when the car has the stock tune and my valves in that video had of course failed which is why they only opened halfway or so. Metal flap rebuild kits will not solve bad electrical components in the board and worn out motors

[hassmaschine]

They definitely can be actuated manually with the stock 328i tune. The reason you need a tune is because they are programmed to not activate when they're supposed to.

[Pacro]

Do I just went to see another small disa, it's a oem part but the part number was 522928 vs the 560538 from RealOEM
However we plugged it into my car and it closed about 80~90%ish (a small crack was still left open)
As the seller was driving a 325 with twin disa we pulled out his plug and plugged it into the unit. In his car the unit would close all the way(maybe a paper thin crack still open)
We plugged it back into my car and again and it only closed the 80~90%.
I went ahead and bought the unit as brand new OEM ones here cost an arm and a leg(300usd)
And it seemed to be in working order and probably just a signal problem due to my car being a single disa


In a side note the last unit was returned to the seller

[E92_William]

A 928 valve is the early old revision with the hollow shaft that drives the flap which has a higher chance of breaking even though small disas breaking off are super rare. It should open and close fully, I don't think that valve is going to be good for long but by all means if you want try it. Also why is the guy selling this valve if it supposedly works fine and he has a 3 stage car. Makes you think

[Pacro]

Originally Posted by E92_William

A 928 valve is the early old revision with the hollow shaft that drives the flap which has a higher chance of breaking even though small disas breaking off are super rare. It should open and close fully, I don't think that valve is going to be good for long but by all means if you want try it. Also why is the guy selling this valve if it supposedly works fine and he has a 3 stage car. Makes you think

Junked E90s here are very rare, so few actually make.it to the junkyard. They are mostly scooped up by shops for cheap parts to repair their customers cars.

[Pacro]

I'll probably end up buying a new one in a few months, just having to buy a 3 stage, disa, and doing a flash/tune is putting bigger dent in my spending account than I expected.
Due to the reasons in my previous post, 2and hand parts prices are extremely inflated, especially parts like the 3 stage that is considered an "upgrade" part

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by E92_William

A 928 valve is the early old revision with the hollow shaft that drives the flap which has a higher chance of breaking even though small disas breaking off are super rare. It should open and close fully, I don't think that valve is going to be good for long but by all means if you want try it. Also why is the guy selling this valve if it supposedly works fine and he has a 3 stage car. Makes you think

My $49 chinesium disa seems to be working perfectly, IDK how long that will be true but honestly it looks like it could have come off the same line that makes the $179 Vaicos.

[E92_William]

I've been saying the Vaico is likely just a rebranded Chinese valve, there's many others that look exactly like it. I think he's better off getting something super cheap from there and trying his luck or doing it right and getting a new OEM one and I'm sure he's getting close to the cost of a new BMW valve by now. With how much oil a small valve usually gets I doubt that one will work for long

[hassmaschine]

I know some people that used the Chinese ones and they lasted *maybe* a week before they broke.

[E92_William]

I have a handful of them laying around, don't really use them because I think some of the parts in them are subpar, obviously changes from manufacturer to manufacturer but I wouldn't want to give someone a valve and have them tell me it failed after a while.

[Pacro]

The one I juts got is a Wurth OEM part(not a knock off, I really dont trust Chinese parts for a high level electronic part)
And it cost me about 90USD
Brand new OEM ones here cost nearly 300usd,

I also had to spend 300usd for the 3stage(compared to the 1~200usd average I've seen on some pages and that's with 2 disas if you're lucky)
Labor and flash is another 300ish
So already sinking 700ish into a simple upgrade. I know its nothing compared to the upkeep my 135I cost, but......😂😂😂



Like I said, I'll probably be buying a new oem in a few months but for now I'll just use this

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by E92_William

I've been saying the Vaico is likely just a rebranded Chinese valve, there's many others that look exactly like it. I think he's better off getting something super cheap from there and trying his luck or doing it right and getting a new OEM one and I'm sure he's getting close to the cost of a new BMW valve by now. With how much oil a small valve usually gets I doubt that one will work for long

I'm interested to see which fails first, I'm betting on the Vaicos. If I have to take it apart again I'll spring for the OEM Mahles, but they don't have a good track record either and they can't be as big an increase in quality as the increase in price, jfc. IDK how long it was mine wasn't working for the PO but like you said probably failed early because it looked intact externally.

[cheerio]

Hi all, has anyone flashed the 325i tune to an MSV80?

[cheerio]

With the incoming 7 day lockdown in Melbourne, I figured I'd try make a start on flashing my 323i (2008 build, MSV80.1 DME) to 325i spec.

Looked up some VINs for a 328i, then an Australian 325i, and finally my 323i.
After finding the stock ZB# for my 323i (8608460), I got the matching ZB# for an equivalent 325i (8608466).

Flashed the Bimmerlabs RSA delete from their 328i files, followed by the Bimmerlabs provided 325i/8608466 0da. All went smoothly, but now of course the DME is now throwing 2FA4 due to the powerclass mismatch - 323i is powerclass 0, while 325i is powerclass 1.

AFAIK, I now need to edit the 325i 0da to be powerclass 0. I converted the Bimmerlabs provided 0da's to binary files and had a poke around in hope of finding the powerclass definition.
I thought of comparing the 328i-to-330i tune to the provided 330i tune, as in theory, they should be identical other than powerclass and checksums, but the 330i tune I found had too many differences to useful. Maybe I just picked the wrong file.

Would anyone experienced in this be willing to help out? Cheers.

P.S.
Out of curiosity, how does the RSA delete work? I noticed that all the Bimmerlabs tunes have a signature at the end of the file prefixed with "BIMMERLABS SIGNATURE - DO NOT EDIT". Does this signature replace the BMW signature in the stock data files, and the DME firmware with RSA delete replace the BMW signature check with a different Bimmerlabs signature check?