[MasterWang]

Originally Posted by UMich_335i

Did you run a continuous line from behind your oil filter housing to the hot side of the engine (under your engine cover) or did you reuse the hard plastic that runs over the valve cover?

I didn't touch the hard plastic under the engine cover.

[N54Twin]

Had a hard time when shifting to 3rd and lagging....

Is working now but got fault code 30ff still a leak some where..

[Scrippy]

Part #3 holds everything. It's secured with 4 bolts. If you unplug the two turbo wastgate actuator lines and the two electrical connectors......That whole thing comes out. It's super easy to replace all the lines without breaking any of the nipples on the wastegate solenoids while it's on a bench. This also makes it easier to change the lines going to the turbos. It also makes it easier to service the wastegate actuator if you have rattle. Enjoy.

[ThatRWD]

Originally Posted by pwr hungry

To get the front green one, remove the vacuum canisters and unbolt the radiator fluid reservoir and move it to the side. That should get you room to move around.

As for the the rear turbo actuator hose...i would suggest removing the heat shield that the waste gate solenoids are attached to, cut the old line off, start the new line, reinstall heat shield with solenoids, cut and connect solenoid side of silicone line. Shouldn't be too bad. You might also be able to get to the actuator from below...not sure if the dp is in the way or not. Can't remember what it looks like down there.

I can't get the new front wastegate one to plug into the nipple. Having a hard time getting the right angle with my hands. How did you guys do it?

Also is there an easy way to do the rear one?

[Cali 335]

I already snapped that plastic vacuum nipple on intake manifold before so I hope I don't snap anymore trying this.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by ThatRWD

I can't get the new front wastegate one to plug into the nipple. Having a hard time getting the right angle with my hands. How did you guys do it?

Also is there an easy way to do the rear one?

I usually grab 2 inches behind the end and force it on from slightly out of the tight spot. It's a PITA but it'll go on eventually with the right angle.

[oogabooga]

Sorry to bring this back. I am about to order some Platinum cured red vacuum lines from the link a few posts above. I wanted to confirm that I need 3.5mm hoses all around and about 15-20' in total to do the whole job with some extra feet left over.

In other words, I only need 3.5mm hoses and no other sizes.

[mojobmw_e90]

Yes 3.5 is all you need.I just did mine today.I ordered 12ft and had about 2ft remaining maybe more.got every single line rwplaced without issues

[oogabooga]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Yes 3.5 is all you need.I just did mine today.I ordered 12ft and had about 2ft remaining maybe more.got every single line rwplaced without issues

Thanks so much. I ordered 14' of the RED 3.5mm Verocious Motorsports platinum cured line. My car is still under the wastegate and HPFP warranties. Anyone out there think that replacing my OEM lines with these red ones will void my warranty?

[oogabooga]

bump. waiting to get opinions on warranty and replacing with the red silicon line compared to OEM. Thanks

[Lambobimmer]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Yes 3.5 is all you need.I just did mine today.I ordered 12ft and had about 2ft remaining maybe more.got every single line rwplaced without issues

How long did it take. I am getting ready to install the Blue hose on my Z4. I have access to a lift at my house so I should be able to get to any line from above or underneath the car fairly easy.

[HazChem]

Originally Posted by UMich_335i

Did you run a continuous line from behind your oil filter housing to the hot side of the engine (under your engine cover) or did you reuse the hard plastic that runs over the valve cover?

I ran a continuous line over the valve cover. Do you all think the temps will be too high resulting in shortened tubing life?


I ended only replacing these with tubing to see if the 30FF code goes away. The other ones were still flexible. Also, I was having trouble removing the waste gate ones. Felt like I was going to break the nipples.

[kiteboy]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Yes 3.5 is all you need.I just did mine today.I ordered 12ft and had about 2ft remaining maybe more.got every single line rwplaced without issues

which one in 3,5 mm with lenght ??

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...e-and-Fittings

[Sgop335]

I prefer the ones with a smaller od (7.5mm), esp for the wastegate. Pelican has nice ones...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-7-545-323-M21

[Wookie420]

anyone ever have any issues with the verocious lines and running them as close as they get to the exhaust manifold without any heat protection?

[07chupacabra]

I havn't done any kind of heatprotection but they've only been there for about 1000 miles. It would be best to check with Rob, he was the first to put them on and recommend them.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Wookie420

anyone ever have any issues with the verocious lines and running them as close as they get to the exhaust manifold without any heat protection?

I have been running them a long while and had them sitting directly on turbo housing and manifold and no issues

[07chupacabra]

Rob what don't you have on your car btw since you have almost everything I want, how does your handling compare to a similarly equipped M3?

[mojobmw_e90]

Originally Posted by Lambobimmer

How long did it take. I am getting ready to install the Blue hose on my Z4. I have access to a lift at my house so I should be able to get to any line from above or underneath the car fairly easy.

Took me little less than 1.5hrs to do everything

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by 07chupacabra

Rob what don't you have on your car btw since you have almost everything I want, how does your handling compare to a similarly equipped M3?

it handles flawlessly

[EJ_3]

Why isn't this a sticky already? Guess it doesn't hurt to try this first to remedy my 30FF before buying new boost solenoids.

[Mayuri Krab]

Thread bump, I accidently broke the plastic connector on one of the boost solenoid and I'm in the process of ordering a new one from ECS, while I'm at it would it be wise to replace them both at the same time?

One other noob question, how would I go around removing them? From what I can see the solendoid is held onto the metal plate by 2 bolts (top and bottom), how do I go around undoing the bolt on the bottom? No of my tools fit under there...

Would one of those 'bendy' (there shows my lack of knowledge on tools) screw driver things do the trick?

Cheers