I'm going to preventatively replace my 72K N55 rod bearings

TheMidnightNarwhal · 01-17-2019, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

The oil pump hold oil. When you remove it you will see. Oil will drain from the pump as well from the oil passages upon removal. So is better to add oil through the OFH so there will be oil there when you first crank the engine. Oil pump is able to move a lot of oil very fast. Even if you don't do knowing of this it will be OK as long as you put assembly lube on the bearings.

Exactly that's what assembly lube is for right? To provide lube before the oil reaches the part?

fatty335 · 01-18-2019, 03:53 PM

Hello all - we are underway and I have run up against my first issue - the m8 torx bolt that goes through the center of the oil pump sprocket absolutely will not budge. I already broke a t45 bit using a breaker bar...any suggestions? I'm a little uneasy with the thought of having to drill it out.

Otherwise, it looks like yellow/red bearing shells all around for this job.

9krpmrx8 · 01-18-2019, 03:54 PM

Man I hate torx bolts.

Joebie · 01-18-2019, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatty335

Hello all - we are underway and I have run up against my first issue - the m8 torx bolt that goes through the center of the oil pump sprocket absolutely will not budge. I already broke a t45 bit using a breaker bar...any suggestions? I'm a little uneasy with the thought of having to drill it out.

When I took apart my blown N52 recently, I remember that oil pump bolt being hilariously tight. I didn't break any bits trying to remove it but i remember having to get out my breaker bar. Of course since my engine is trash i didnt have to worry about breaking anything so i just went HAM on the thing. It felt like there was maybe red loctite in there or something.

I guess BMW doesnt want their oil pump bolts accidentally coming loose.

I think you need a high quality torx bit and a way to counterhold the sprocket, as I would be scared putting all that force on just the chain.

Pladi · 01-18-2019, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatty335

Hello all - we are underway and I have run up against my first issue - the m8 torx bolt that goes through the center of the oil pump sprocket absolutely will not budge. I already broke a t45 bit using a breaker bar...any suggestions? I'm a little uneasy with the thought of having to drill it out.

Otherwise, it looks like yellow/red bearing shells all around for this job.

try to heat it a bit with short bursts 10 sec. Use a heat gun. Not torch.

Pladi · 01-18-2019, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Man I hate torx bolts.

very helpful comment

hassmaschine · 01-18-2019, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Man I hate torx bolts.

I don't. They're nearly impossible to strip off compared to hex bolts.

9krpmrx8 · 01-18-2019, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I don't. They're nearly impossible to strip off compared to hex bolts.

I have seen the impossible done many times.

hassmaschine · 01-18-2019, 05:28 PM

well, sure - if you make something idiot proof, they just invent bigger idiots.

Anyway, it's totally OT..

TheMidnightNarwhal · 01-18-2019, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I don't. They're nearly impossible to strip off compared to hex bolts.

Exactly. Proper torx bit in torx bolt makes it nearly unstrippable.

fatty335 · 01-18-2019, 08:19 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions and support. After some busted knuckles, a few choice words, and a trip to the hardware store, that oil pump bolt finally came out with the breaker bar.

Tomorrow we start pulling out rod bearings (but for now, I'm having a shower and an adult beverage)!

Welcome to NBA Jam · 01-18-2019, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joester

When I took apart my blown N52 recently, I remember that oil pump bolt being hilariously tight. I didn't break any bits trying to remove it but i remember having to get out my breaker bar. Of course since my engine is trash i didnt have to worry about breaking anything so i just went HAM on the thing. It felt like there was maybe red loctite in there or something.

I guess BMW doesnt want their oil pump bolts accidentally coming loose.

I think you need a high quality torx bit and a way to counterhold the sprocket, as I would be scared putting all that force on just the chain.

With oil pump nuts shearing or backing off on the E46, I'm not totally surprised by this. People would take off their oil pan off just to replace the nut with the ZHP version which was microencapsulated with loctite. The standard nut didn't have loctite apparently.

feuer · 01-18-2019, 10:05 PM

As far as I remember the TIS states that blue and violet bearings have been discontinued by BMW. So only pre LCI engines will have those. I lock the chain sprocket with the lock pin from the tensioner. Well last time I just used a torx screw driver. If you don't the chain might just keep skipping and you won't be able to tighten the bolt and I think need to be 20nm, no angle torque and this particular bolt doesn't come the the kit.

fatty335 · 01-19-2019, 08:15 PM

So here is what everyone has been waiting for - the results. I've completed the swap and aside from the oil sprocket bolt and torqueing the rod bolts (an absolute beast while upside down on your back), it wasn't too bad. The bearings were not terrible, but not great either. They did show some wear and there were a few small streaks of copper on a few - it seems #1 upper and #3 upper were the worst. Actually, they look pretty similar to the Bimmerworld project N54 that they did the bearings on - I believe that car was around 80,XXX miles. Anyway, this is a job that can be done by a home mechanic in the garage without too much difficulty. I'll post closeups of each bearing in my album "Rod Bearings." Here's to many more thousands of miles!

Welcome to NBA Jam · 01-19-2019, 08:32 PM

Well done! Pretty intimidating job to the DIY mechanic, but I'm glad it can be done at home on jack stands. Sounds like if you take your time, you're good.

fatty335 · 01-19-2019, 08:35 PM

#3 upper was one of the worst:

#6 upper:

Check my album for the rest.

feuer · 01-19-2019, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatty335

#3 upper was one of the worst:

Not much left. You made a very wise choice. I wonder what the "no no n54/5 doesn't have bearing issue" will comment.

Joebie · 01-19-2019, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

Not much left. You made a very wise choice. I wonder what the "no no n54/5 doesn't have bearing issue" will comment.

Agreed, good job my dude! Well done.

Does that crank look a little scuffed up to anyone else? I haven't seen enough cranks in my life to say for sure. Maybe its just the way the light's hitting it.

fatty335 · 01-20-2019, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joester

Agreed, good job my dude! Well done.

Does that crank look a little scuffed up to anyone else? I haven't seen enough cranks in my life to say for sure. Maybe its just the way the light's hitting it.

Joester, I typically use the very scientific "fingernail test" on a crank journal that may be suspect: run your nail across the journal taking note of any imperfections in the surface. Not to worry, my journals were in fine shape and all were within spec according to the plastigage.

Pladi · 01-20-2019, 09:02 AM

Great work man ! U pioneered this work for us DIY. For the N55. Those bearings dont look good for the miles. My mazdspeed bearings during my rebuilt at 160 k km looked new.

What oil do u use. ?

fatty335 · 01-20-2019, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pladi

Great work man ! U pioneered this work for us DIY. For the N55. Those bearings dont look good for the miles. My mazdspeed bearings during my rebuilt at 160 k km looked new.

What oil do u use. ?

Castrol 0W40

weehe126 · 01-21-2019, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatty335

Castrol 0W40

Where is this car located? Wonder if it's cold start in cold weather related.

01-18-2019, 03:53 PM	#68
fatty335 Private First Class 124 Rep 109 Posts Drives: e90 335i Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: The Palmetto State iTrader: (0)	Hello all - we are underway and I have run up against my first issue - the m8 torx bolt that goes through the center of the oil pump sprocket absolutely will not budge. I already broke a t45 bit using a breaker bar...any suggestions? I'm a little uneasy with the thought of having to drill it out. Otherwise, it looks like yellow/red bearing shells all around for this job.
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01-18-2019, 03:54 PM	#69
9krpmrx8 Clean is the new cool, keep it that way. 814 Rep 1,685 Posts Drives: 11' Alpine White 335i Sedan Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: San Antonio, Texas iTrader: (0)	Man I hate torx bolts. __________________ 2011 335i, FBO, N55+ Turbo, full E85, S55 intercooler, etc. 2015 X5 35i Xdrive
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01-18-2019, 05:28 PM	#75
hassmaschine Major General 3985 Rep 7,212 Posts Drives: "NBO" 330i Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: earth iTrader: (0)	well, sure - if you make something idiot proof, they just invent bigger idiots. Anyway, it's totally OT..
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01-18-2019, 08:19 PM	#77
fatty335 Private First Class 124 Rep 109 Posts Drives: e90 335i Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: The Palmetto State iTrader: (0)	Thanks for all the suggestions and support. After some busted knuckles, a few choice words, and a trip to the hardware store, that oil pump bolt finally came out with the breaker bar. Tomorrow we start pulling out rod bearings (but for now, I'm having a shower and an adult beverage)!
	Appreciate 3 IllSic_Design2125.00 TheMidnightNarwhal2814.50 Nebo16.50 Quote

01-18-2019, 10:05 PM	#79
feuer Major General 4288 Rep 9,224 Posts Drives: wife crazy! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (5)	As far as I remember the TIS states that blue and violet bearings have been discontinued by BMW. So only pre LCI engines will have those. I lock the chain sprocket with the lock pin from the tensioner. Well last time I just used a torx screw driver. If you don't the chain might just keep skipping and you won't be able to tighten the bolt and I think need to be 20nm, no angle torque and this particular bolt doesn't come the the kit.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-19-2019, 08:15 PM	#80
fatty335 Private First Class 124 Rep 109 Posts Drives: e90 335i Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: The Palmetto State iTrader: (0)	So here is what everyone has been waiting for - the results. I've completed the swap and aside from the oil sprocket bolt and torqueing the rod bolts (an absolute beast while upside down on your back), it wasn't too bad. The bearings were not terrible, but not great either. They did show some wear and there were a few small streaks of copper on a few - it seems #1 upper and #3 upper were the worst. Actually, they look pretty similar to the Bimmerworld project N54 that they did the bearings on - I believe that car was around 80,XXX miles. Anyway, this is a job that can be done by a home mechanic in the garage without too much difficulty. I'll post closeups of each bearing in my album "Rod Bearings." Here's to many more thousands of miles!
	Appreciate 3 feuer4287.50 Pladi721.50 rich_mane142.50 Quote

01-19-2019, 08:32 PM	#81
Welcome to NBA Jam Is it the shoes!? 3893 Rep 5,111 Posts Drives: (Sold) 2011 E92 335i ZMP 6MT Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (1)	Well done! Pretty intimidating job to the DIY mechanic, but I'm glad it can be done at home on jack stands. Sounds like if you take your time, you're good.
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01-19-2019, 08:35 PM	#82
fatty335 Private First Class 124 Rep 109 Posts Drives: e90 335i Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: The Palmetto State iTrader: (0)	#3 upper was one of the worst: #6 upper: Check my album for the rest.
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01-20-2019, 09:02 AM	#86
Pladi Lieutenant Colonel 722 Rep 1,753 Posts Drives: 2011 335i xdrive Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Waterloo, ON Canada iTrader: (0)	Great work man ! U pioneered this work for us DIY. For the N55. Those bearings dont look good for the miles. My mazdspeed bearings during my rebuilt at 160 k km looked new. What oil do u use. ?
	Appreciate 0 Quote