[feuer]

Originally Posted by YoungBlood

to make the reinforcement plate fit over the top, I'd have to cut a portion of it out, because of where the strut brake bolt on. That area is also probably part of the reason e90 can get away without it though

Can you post a photo from your setup?

[YoungBlood]

Originally Posted by feuer

Can you post a photo from your setup?

I haven't done it yet, I just was meaning, if I was going to place the reinforcement plate over the top of the strut tower, I would have to trim a portion to allow it to seat over the strut bolts, since the brace is in the way

[feuer]

Originally Posted by YoungBlood

I haven't done it yet, I just was meaning, if I was going to place the reinforcement plate over the top of the strut tower, I would have to trim a portion to allow it to seat over the strut bolts, since the brace is in the way

Reinforcement would work only if is on the bottom, sandwiched between the strut tower and the strut mount. Above, on top, you can mount strut bar but that serves different purpose, it isn't a strut tower reinforcement.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Can't believe I missed this thread. I've been looking for a way to lower my front end a tiny bit and this is perfect. I don't think I'll have any clearance issues with my 284 wheels (17x8, ET34) with 12mm spacers and 225/45R17 tires on non-Sport suspension

And approved by Chris and Feuer? Say no more.

I went ahead with this mod and it was very easy to do.


Here is the RHS tab. You can see where I started cutting.


I cut the tab off flush with the weld. I just used a hacksaw with a bimetal blade (18 TPI).


Remove the 18mm pinch bolt (torque spec is 60 ftlb) and spread the knuckle with a prybar or chisel. Jack the knuckle and strut assembly up and the spring should push the strut further into the knuckle. If not, spread the knuckle further and gave it a few wacks with a hammer.


The tab is about 8mm tall.


I also took this opportunity to "bypass" my brake pad sensor to avoid future headaches.

My 2009 E90 328i AT has non-Sport suspension (C5 front springs) and the stock ride height in the front was 66cm with a full tank of gas. After the modification, my ride height decreased to 65cm and the stance doesn't look raked anymore. Very happy with the results.

Big thanks to the OP and everyone else!

[YoungBlood]

Awesome! I still haven't gotten around to doing mine, realized I need new tension arm bushings, and decided to go full m3 arms and overhaul all my suspension while I'm at it, so no point in pulling it all apart twice

[P14kle]

Is this safe to reverse it if need be??

I mean, if you cut the tab and you want to go back to the stock position, would the pinch bolt be enough to hold it in position??

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by P14kle

Is this safe to reverse it if need be??

I mean, if you cut the tab and you want to go back to the stock position, would the pinch bolt be enough to hold it in position??

The pinch bolt would probably be strong enough to hold it until you hit the first pothole.

Reversing this mod would mean installing new front struts - but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

If you're considering this mod, I'd recommend doing it on a set of worn struts that you'd be replacing soon anyway.

Once you used "throw-aways" as your guinea pig, then you'd know if you want to mod a new set of struts that you're intending to ride the full service life.

[mlifxs]

measure carefully and think forward.

once you measure,
how worn are your tires? will new tires, same size, be okay? how close is tire and wheel to strut? If it's real close, how will the distance change as you lower strut? what does it mean for future tire choices?

stock wheel and tire sizes should be fine. In my case, I was pretty close to the strut with 18x9 et 31 and 245/35. I might have been okay with that setup, but it was close and it seemed too close for 245/40 or 255/35, so I passed.

Originally Posted by terryd5150

The pinch bolt would probably be strong enough to hold it until you hit the first pothole.

There's no way that tiny piece of sheet-metal, held only by a superficial weld, is the make-or-break for that entire strut assembly as it relates to it's position within the clevis; pothole or not.

Looking forward to hearing what our resident engineers think, but to believe the entire weight of the vehicle literately rests on that small installation tab is pretty far fetched IMO.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

There's no way that tiny piece of sheet-metal, held only by a superficial weld, is the make-or-break for that entire strut assembly as it relates to it's position within the clevis; pothole or not.

Looking forward to hearing what our resident engineers think, but to believe the entire weight of the vehicle literately rests on that small installation tab is pretty far fetched IMO.

I agree with your overall point, that the entire weight of the car doesn't rest on that tab.

The pinch bolt does a good bit of the work but it won't hold the strut stationary all by itself, it needs "assistance" from that tab - or a flared strut tube on other designs.

If you think that's incorrect, you're welcome you to test the theory out, but there's a reason the strut either has that tab or a flare - to prevent downward movement of the strut tube.

[YoungBlood]

I've got plenty of room with the offset and size I'm running, on brand new tires I've measured multiple times. However, I'm running a bit more offset that the average setup (et22) so that contributes.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

There's no way that tiny piece of sheet-metal, held only by a superficial weld, is the make-or-break for that entire strut assembly as it relates to it's position within the clevis; pothole or not.

Looking forward to hearing what our resident engineers think, but to believe the entire weight of the vehicle literately rests on that small installation tab is pretty far fetched IMO.

Not a mechanical engineer but tend to agree. The amount of clamping force the pinch bolt provides can be found from bolt torque clamping force tables. It is not small. The tab is for height alignment during assembly in my opinion.

Originally Posted by PhaseP

The tab is for height alignment during assembly in my opinion.

I agree with this as well.

[YoungBlood]

I'll agree too, otherwise you'd see it gouging the aluminum where it rest from taking force, or bending, it's really not a strong piece

[juld0zer]

Necro post but..

I did the opposite - raised the front by 10mm using the same method. After i fitted B8 struts all round, I wasn't happy with the raked look and E30 spring perches are too much effort.

So far it has been over 2000km and Sydney roads are pretty crap. I avoid potholes where i can, but there's been plenty where i had no choice. No issues, and it hasn't slid back down. I have a 10mm metal block that i used to set the gap initially and periodically check with.

The tab that is cut in the original post is mainly there as an insertion limiting tab so the installer doesnt push it too far down. So the pinchbolt does do most of the work.
On the new F series cars there is a small lip on the bottom of knuckle which also serves this purpose.

This is why BMW states to clean and ensure no oil or grease or dirt is in the knuckle where the strut slides into. The other purpose for this design is to minimise the chance of mushrooming the strut towers due to severe impact. ie it allows the strut to slip down if you hit a bit enough bump. Although I'm sure many F30 owners with aftermarket suspension will disagree as there has been many destroyed upper mounts.

[kaftar]

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread but I recently lowered my z4 on Eibachs and the fronts were sitting a tad too low. I looked at the rubber bits you can put between spring coils and shim for the suspension but ended up raising the shocks slightly on the clevis (about 5-7mm) and now the car sits perfectly and handles no differently. I marked the shocks where they are and plan on checking them periodically (clevis bolt is done up pretty tightly so doubt they would move much). The bolt for the clevis also still sits between the two alignment bits that come out of the lower strut. Question is - am I right in thinking the worst that can happen is not much.. is it fairly safe to drive the car around like this? I figured I haven't raised it by too much at all and absolute worst thing that can happen is they slide down and end up resting on the bottom where they would sit normally and I would just lift them back up to the mark again.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by esafaeian

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread but I recently lowered my z4 on Eibachs and the fronts were sitting a tad too low. I looked at the rubber bits you can put between spring coils and shim for the suspension but ended up raising the shocks slightly on the clevis (about 5-7mm) and now the car sits perfectly and no differently. I marked the shocks where they are and plan on checking them periodically (clevis bolt is done up pretty tightly so doubt they would move much). The bolt for the clevis also still sits between the two alignment bits that come out of the lower strut. Question is - am I right in thinking the worst that can happen is not much.. is it fairly safe to drive the car around like this? I figured I haven't raised it by too much at all and absolute worst thing that can happen is they slide down and end up resting on the bottom where they would sit normally and I would just lift them back up to the mark again.

My opinion is what you have done is fine if you have torqued the pinch bolt to spec. I would keep checking it periodically and if it does move then weld an extension to the tab on the shock or find a way to make some other spacer.

One thought I had was maybe a hose clamp around something or just the hose clamp with the screw section acting as a spacer.

[kaftar]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

My opinion is what you have done is fine if you have torqued the pinch bolt to spec. I would keep checking it periodically and if it does move then weld an extension to the tab on the shock or find a way to make some other spacer.

One thought I had was maybe a hose clamp around something or just the hose clamp with the screw section acting as a spacer.

Thanks mate, yeah I figure worst thing that can happen is it slides down 5mm into it's seat, but the bolt is done up pretty tight so I can't see that happening too soon. I do plan on checking this on a regular basis (pretty easy as I know how much each shock sticks out on the bottom) but might make a spacer to sit on the clevis between the bottom and the shock. I was thinking of just getting a round aluminium spacer of sorts roughly the same size and then cutting into it to make it like a c shape that I can fold into the correct size.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by esafaeian

Thanks mate, yeah I figure worst thing that can happen is it slides down 5mm into it's seat, but the bolt is done up pretty tight so I can't see that happening too soon. I do plan on checking this on a regular basis (pretty easy as I know how much each shock sticks out on the bottom) but might make a spacer to sit on the clevis between the bottom and the shock. I was thinking of just getting a round aluminium spacer of sorts roughly the same size and then cutting into it to make it like a c shape that I can fold into the correct size.

If you do in fact need a spacer, which I doubt, I wouldn’t use aluminum. It’s pretty soft I would go for something steel.

[kaftar]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

If you do in fact need a spacer, which I doubt, I wouldn’t use aluminum. It’s pretty soft I would go for something steel.

Ahh ok good point! I think I'll just see how it goes the way it is first before I spend too much time making something up...

[mpathic]

What about using Loctite Green 680, sleeve retainer? Will be using that with the new Koni SA going into the 330.

REad most of this thread, and surprised that no one yet has mentioned Loctite Green.

That metal tab you're all talking about is a positioner, not for structural support.
A correctly torqued bolt + Loctite green should keep a strut in place without slipping except for extreme shock and vibration like in a collision or severe abrupt bottoming. Then you want it to slip instead up much worse damage to the car.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by mpathic

.

REad most of this thread, and surprised that no one yet has mentioned Loctite Green.

That's because it's unnecessary and would do nothing.