[Yozh]

The vacuum accumulator is pn 13627808456 but yes the wastegate does not go through that anyway. My point is you need to make sure there is a good system vacuum as leaks elsewhere will affect vacuum supply to the wastegate pressure converter.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

The vacuum accumulator is pn 13627808456 but yes the wastegate does not go through that anyway. My point is you need to make sure there is a good system vacuum as leaks elsewhere will affect vacuum supply to the wastegate pressure converter.

the vacuum accumulator seems to loose vacuum at the rate of .5 inHG per minute. might just be the connection tubes not providing a proper seal. unfortunately I cannot fit a screw clamp due to being such a tight space. I doubt it would affect the overall system performance.

a visual inspection shows no cracks.

turned out both pressure converters where not holding vacuum and so ordered some new ones from eBay. They made a small fan noise when vacuum was applied.

Someone said they can be reconditioned but they seem to keep failing and at 40 dollar price point probably not worth messing with it.

Thanks for all the help!

[Yozh]

Pressure converters do not hold vacuum if not energized. You need to test then hooked up and powered on with system vacuum present. Otherwise, they do make "small fan" noise if tested off power. Depending how you were testing your vacuum accumulator, losing vacuum could be a few things.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Pressure converters do not hold vacuum if not energized. You need to test then hooked up and powered on with system vacuum present. Otherwise, they do make "small fan" noise if tested off power. Depending how you were testing your vacuum accumulator, losing vacuum could be a few things.

OK I guess i misunderstood.

I got the 2 new pressure converters and sure enough they behave the same way when vacuum is applied and do not hold vacuum. the only difference is that they do not make small fan noise.

one of the pressure converters in the car does make the noise. anyway I'm past the point of testing them. Ill just replace them and hope for the best.

Edit:
Further testing of the reservoir shows a larger leak. So ordered a new reservoir as well

[rkstar9]

Why is your reservoir translucent looking instead of black plastic? did they upgrade the part or did you wrap it in tape?

Update: So i put the new reservoir and pressure converters, the car does not have any cel or codes yet but it is awfully sluggish takes a long time to respond to the accelerator. was there anything that needed to be reset in insta? like o2 sensor adaptations?

I never unplugged the battery while doing all this work.

when I turned the car on the first time there was a bunch of codes, o2 sensor pressure sensor waste gate, basically everything I unplugged threw a code so I just erased them. there was also a battery below threshold message on the idrive screen that is now gone. Probably because the car sat for 2 weeks with all the stuff unplugged.

Edit:

Turned out one of the pressure converters I bought was DOA. I put the old pressure converters back and the car has no more issues.

luckily the seller refunded me for both converters.

[RED-d]

I just got a check engine light and also showing a Pending Code P0299- Turbocharger underboost code.
The car is sluggish and smokes like a coal train on acceleration.

Also have codes
4865/not present-DDE: air to egr mass flow plausibility
3F25/not present-DDE: Charge-air tube monitoring
4530/not present-Charging press control, high-press stage, control deviation:
Charging pressure too low/positive control deviation.

Using Schwaben scanner.

Torque is giving just P2279- Intake air system leak.

I'm tuned with ATM intercooler, Airbox, ABC delete, cbu cleaned, and all the easy vacuum lines replaced.

I've done a visual and don't see anything obvious. I spiced into 1 of the 2 vacuum lines that go across the front of the motor, and I'm getting -22.5 inhg at idle and it goes to -25 at 2000 rpms. If I apply vacuum with the motor off and pump to -25, it bleeds off about .5inhg/minute.
(I wish I had done this earlier to have a reference)
I sprayed around with starter spray and didn't get any revs.

Just starting my trouble-shooting using this thread as a guide.
Thanks for posting Yozh.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by RED-d

I just got a check engine light and also showing a Pending Code P0299- Turbocharger underboost code.
The car is sluggish and smokes like a coal train on acceleration.

Also have codes
4865/not present-DDE: air to egr mass flow plausibility
3F25/not present-DDE: Charge-air tube monitoring
4530/not present-Charging press control, high-press stage, control deviation:
Charging pressure too low/positive control deviation.

Using Schwaben scanner.

Torque is giving just P2279- Intake air system leak.

I'm tuned with ATM intercooler, Airbox, ABC delete, cbu cleaned, and all the easy vacuum lines replaced.

I've done a visual and don't see anything obvious. I spiced into 1 of the 2 vacuum lines that go across the front of the motor, and I'm getting -22.5 inhg at idle and it goes to -25 at 2000 rpms. If I apply vacuum with the motor off and pump to -25, it bleeds off about .5inhg/minute.
(I wish I had done this earlier to have a reference)
I sprayed around with starter spray and didn't get any revs.

Just starting my trouble-shooting using this thread as a guide.
Thanks for posting Yozh.

Check to make sure those intercooler hoses are secured well. I left one loose and the hose popped off during hard acceleration, followed by instant limp mode and smoked like a bad episode of Diesel Brothers

[RED-d]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

Check to make sure those intercooler hoses are secured well. I left one loose and the hose popped off during hard acceleration, followed by instant limp mode and smoked like a bad episode of Diesel Brothers

So much for my up top visual. Just removed the bottom engine cover and sure enough, the intercooler hose going to the intake had blown off. I'm pretty sure I didn't leave that loose. Hope this doesn't become a recurring problem.
Thanks dmanb2b

Now the question is do I need to address my vacuum problem? I probably should verify that my gauge is accurate first.

I was able to check my wastegate actuator. It starts creaking above 20inHg ( I guess it's opening?) and I hear a click when vacuum is released.

The compressor bypass valve vacuum actuator also has a faint noise when vacuum released.
BTW, both of these areas leak .5-1mmHg/min when holding vacuum.

Correction in my first post: The vacuum line going across the motor doesn't leak vacuum at this same rate. It doesn't hold vacuum at all when using vacuum gauge. I'm guessing this is normal for this line. This is the line not going to the vacuum reservoir. This is also where I checked peak vacuum with the engine running.

Is a loss of 6.5mmHg vacuum alot?
Is a slow leak-down normal?

The resistance of the EUV from my EGR is 30.7 (worth keeping?)

I've never been impressed with my off-the-line performance. Even with all the controls off, but it's a rocket on the highway. Trying to find another close by to compare.

[rkstar9]

I think some vacuum leaks may become bigger or smaller based on temperature. My vacuum reservoir showed a minor leak at times and sometimes it would get bigger.

id make sure you are starting with a good vacuum gauge pump to begin with.

it's also extremely helpful to follow the test schedule in Rheingold where it activates each waste gate and to visually see it move.

[RED-d]

Thanks rkstar9. I'm new to BMW. I've only got the Schwaben scanner and still learning it. Rheingold will be another learning curve for me.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by RED-d

So much for my up top visual. Just removed the bottom engine cover and sure enough, the intercooler hose going to the intake had blown off. I'm pretty sure I didn't leave that loose. Hope this doesn't become a recurring problem.
Thanks dmanb2b

You are very welcome. When mine popped off, I cleaned the pipe from oil/grease residue and then hit it with some hairspray to lube the hose and get it back on. I may have a problem getting it off in future, but it has been fine for over 10k miles now with many hard pulls

[Yozh]

RED-d we need to expand a bit on the leaks you are testing. Just to be clear. Electric switchover valves found for compressor bypass, EGR cooler bypass and engine mount controls do hold vacuum at the input nipple (one facing straight out). Pressure converters do not hold vacuum while de-energized. No sense testing from some point in a vacuum line. Test modules individually. Including vacuum actuators for each.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

RED-d we need to expand a bit on the leaks you are testing. Just to be clear. Electric switchover valves found for compressor bypass, EGR cooler bypass and engine mount controls do hold vacuum at the input nipple (one facing straight out). Pressure converters do not hold vacuum while de-energized. No sense testing from some point in a vacuum line. Test modules individually. Including vacuum actuators for each.

so when vacuum is applied to the pressure converter and if the wastegate actuators are not defective shoudn't it hold vacuum?

[Yozh]

If it’s energized, yes it should hold vacuum. At idle there should be no vacuum present at the output of the wastegate pressure converter and input should be vacuum tight.

[Lambobimmer]

I am having an issue with boost after a full delete and I came across this thread trying to figure out my problem. I am pretty sure that I have a vacuum hose issue. I replaced all of my OEM vacuum lines with Silicone lines so I am positive that I don't have any leaks. I started to test the pressure converters and the one that supplies the small turbo wastegate has about 20 inHg at idle and the pressure converter that supplies the big turbo wastegate has 0 vacuum at idle. Should both of the pressure converters have around 25 inHg at idle.

I am also getting plenty of vacuum from the supply line prior to entering the pressure converter. Both supply lines read more than 25 inHg prior to entering the pressure converter.

My car basically has no power after my delete and tune. It idles fine but as soon at the accelerator is pressed it will hardly move and it smokes and seems like it is not getting any boost. I replaced my OEM FMIC with an ATM FMIC and I am sure that my FMIC hoses are tight and not leaking.

[Yozh]

Did your car do fine before the deletes?

[rbreding]

Also. As detailed on FB. Need to check for codes.

[Yozh]

I can’t keep up who’s who on here and FB. Sometimes it seems like same threads are going on.

[335stoner]

referring to post 1 and the 3rd picture...

is there anyway to change line 14 without removing the assembly?

I saw it was almost broken at the front side and I made an attempt while changing my HB (failed at 977** miles)... I tried to remove all the stuff before reading this thread and quickly noticed it was a cluster F*ck! I just put it back together and will attempt again when I have more time and when it isn't as cold..

[Yozh]

Yes you can actually change all the lines without removal of the whole assembly and if you do not need to change any of the pressure converters. The front end is easy. The back end is tricky, and will require the removal of the EL valve. You do need to know where things are

[335stoner]

awesome! I was really looking your pics again this morning and I have a good idea of how everything is run..

[cruising6]

Hi All

I'm in trouble with turbo control after installed hybrid big turbo.




I tested the controllers with DIS. I didn't find any error.

Or I just can't see what I should?

Thank you