[Greck]

I disconnected all connectors(from all sensors on DPF), but can't disconnect the pressure sensor tubes, there are two tubes and I have no idea how to disconnect them... cut and buy a new one?

[Hoooper]

Dpf differential pressure tubes? Just pull the dpf down, they'll come out

[Owen81]

Originally Posted by Greck

I disconnected all connectors(from all sensors on DPF), but can't disconnect the pressure sensor tubes, there are two tubes and I have no idea how to disconnect them... cut and buy a new one?

They just pull off, might need some coaxing...I had to turn mine to loosen them, then they pulled offf

[BB_cuda]

Gently, repeat gently twist the black hoses. That tight fit is your friend. You don't want those blowing off and shooting hot gasses and burning up nearby stuff. Slight twist with a pair of pliers or sneak a real small flat blade screw driver up in the gap to unstick.

[Greck]

I tried to pull them out from DPF as much hard as I can, it seems like they super tight... I even thought to cut them... I spent 2 hours for remove all connectors, covers nox and other sensors and 2 hour for this small tubes)) and leave them for today) Will keep you posted))

[BB_cuda]

It's a twist thing to break it loose

[dmanb2b]

much easier to loosen from sensor side

[Greck]

Thank you All for the good advises. New DPF already installed, I need to install back many other small pieces and try how it works, but as per visual inspection the cells of the old DPF are clean, so it wasn't clogged... but the back side of old DPF and pipe where it connects to the exhaust pipe has soot and new DPF doesn't have it...

[BB_cuda]

Can you show us a pic of old backside DPF? Or did the did the soot fall out on the floor (street in your case)? That is a bummer for you to work in the street.

[Greck]

No, soot doesn't fall out... Yesterday was a fishing day, so no car works Today I have to finish it, I hope, and then will send all photos... Actually NOX and Oxygen Sensors are the same size sensors, so I used the same tool for both of them. I did a mistake I forgot that I have to remove the engine mount first, so I unscrewed the DPF first and it stuck in between engine and engine mount and body I broke a few plastic vacuum T-connectors also, so will replace them... I found an a oil leakage from vacuum pump at the top of the engine and the small radiator closer to the exit of the intercooler - they are really minor, probably I have to fix them too... I checked the turbo's axis and it doesn't have any backlash - that is really good I guess That's all news for today)

[BB_cuda]

What was result, if you have repaired those broken T connections too?

[Greck]

I replaced the DPF, T-connectors, vacuum lines and reset all SCR adaptations setting, 120 miles so far and no codes and exhaust pipes are not super clean but very close to clean... I also noticed that if I drive very quiet engine temperature is in range 79-82(most the time 80C), and when I drive aggressively at some point temperature goes up to 93 and stay there like 89-92... so I decided to replace the main thermostat. I also noticed the oil leak from the big vacuum pump above the EGR cooler, so I ordered the gasket for the pump and hope it helps, because currently oil is leaking to the EGR cooler and I can smell it inside the cabin...I checked the monitors for the SMOG check and 2 of them are still not ready, so it seems like car is still collecting some data or something is still wrong and I will get another CEC light soon. I hope that the thermostat will close all issues...

[BB_cuda]

Hope all is well. I've read here its a long and complicated drive cycle before all of the readies come back so don't worry.

I seem to recall your problems were resurfacing quickly and you've driven 120 miles already. Hope don't hear back for awhile as "no news is good news". You've had a crash course in the vehicle's emissions.

[Greck]

Today on my way back home (37 miles on freeway) the engine temp was about 75-77C, so I guess that some of the monitors might not be completed because of thermostat... Will see soon) Last time check engine comes up after 250miles... )

[dmanb2b]

It took about 400 miles for all 9 monitors to set on my car...so drive on and enjoy. Glad to hear things are looking up.

[Greck]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

It took about 400 miles for all 9 monitors to set on my car...so drive on and enjoy. Glad to hear things are looking up.

Good to know, thank you for informing me. 400 it is a lot...

[dmanb2b]

yup..one of the monitors requires two successful dpf regens

[Greck]

How I can control the regenerations? How I can detect actually that it is regenerating?

[ninja_zx11]

Originally Posted by Greck

How I can control the regenerations? How I can detect actually that it is regenerating?

From the exhaust temperature.Normally it reaches above 600 Deg C during regeneration.There are other parameters too from which you can tell that its happening.I found Carly quite useful for checking that kind of stuff.

[Frediesel]

Carly can request a regen.

[335dlci]

Even with ista, you can't force a regen. The monitor for the regen according to bmw can take up 6-7 hours to become ready at freeway speeds after the whole scr system is up to operating temp.

[BB_cuda]

For those of us that don't use monitoring, if you are cruising on freeway and notice the analog fuel economy fall from ~40 down to low 30's, a regen is in progress. As previous poster said, certainly if you can read EGTs on iCarly (or whatever) and watch EGTs. They will go high when regen in progress. If 2 regens are needed, you may need to drive 700-800 miles as the newer DPF might take 350-400 miles each time. The longer the better. As DPFs degrade, miles between regens fall to lower intervals. You should know long before this if your SCR efficiency problem has been cured.

If indeed the DPF was the culprit, this is a failure mode we hadn't heard of before (soot getting through outlet).