[stewbets]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

lol, inlets allow more airflow and make it easier for Turbos to hit boost targets, you can see the stock one is crushed like a pancake with obvious restrictions to airflow. There have already been threads posted with before and after for Inlets and Outlets, inlets can gain 20-30whp and possibly more.

Who crushes pancakes?

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by stewbets

Who crushes pancakes?

the term refers to being crushed flat, like a pancake

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by stewbets

I would keep the OEM 3-prongs for FBO. Colder plugs aren't really necessary/beneficial until you upgrade turbos.

If 1 step aren't necessary for FBO then why does BMW use them in the lower boost N55?? Sorry but the stock Bosch copper plugs are old out dated tech. Run NGK Iridium plugs...

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

If 1 step aren't necessary for FBO then why does BMW use them in the lower boost N55?? Sorry but the stock Bosch copper plugs are old out dated tech. Run NGK Iridium plugs...

You can run Bosch OEM 3 pronged plugs without going 1 step for FBO perfectly fine as many have done. Why BMW uses single pronged 1 step on N55 I have no idea.

We are talking about N54 here, if your going by the argument what BMW used must be better then you'd never use any aftermarket performance parts or tune a BMW and you should be using the Bosch OEM plugs as BMW uses them on N54's

1 step colder can be used on FBO cars, it's just not a must and you have deal with gapping the plugs for no added benefits.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by jadams161

If 1 step aren't necessary for FBO then why does BMW use them in the lower boost N55?? Sorry but the stock Bosch copper plugs are old out dated tech. Run NGK Iridium plugs...

I'm sure colder plugs are just fine, but I ran a fairly aggressive ethanol tune for a year with stock turbos and stock plugs. My logs were OK and the car made good power (~450awhp). I've gone one step colder since replacing my turbos and I'd say they've cleaned up timing corrections a smidge, but this is at 525awhp. I ran the factory three-prongs for a bit with the new turbos and they were just fine. Just sharing my experience.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

the term refers to being crushed flat, like a pancake

I was making a lame joke about the reality that pancakes aren't crushed. But yes, they are flat.

I would prefer the following:

"the stock one is crushed like the flour that comprises pancake batter with obvious restrictions to airflow."

Or if that one doesn't flow, which it obviously doesn't, there's this:

"the stock one is flat as a pancake with obvious restrictions to airflow."

Again, not at all serious. These are just the ridiculous things that entertain me

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by stewbets

I was making a lame joke about the reality that pancakes aren't crushed. But yes, they are flat.

I would prefer the following:

"the stock one is crushed like the flour that comprises pancake batter with obvious restrictions to airflow."

Or if that one doesn't flow, which it obviously doesn't, there's this:

"the stock one is flat as a pancake with obvious restrictions to airflow."

Again, not at all serious. These are just the ridiculous things that entertain me

Yeah I didn't mean it literally completely flat, but more of a joke about them being crushed/flattened. lol, I'm not that eloquent mate.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I cant seem to find a good consistent answers on real world numbers as a basis to judge the acclaimed $1500 gets you 500hp on the N54 platform. I'm not saying this was claimed by VSRF but other vendors have claimed this and I would venture to say that most people would agree. I'm just trying to add up the numbers. Please help me fill in the gaps and add some validity to the claim. FBO's get you 500HP. I'm leaving out exhaust so I may be a little under but just want to make sure I'm not in fantasy land if I'm thinking that I can have a 500hp car for $1500 with a few bolt on's and a canned tune (MHD Stage 2)

Lets use VSRF since it's such a popular vendor on this forum.

Condition of the car. This would be for a 2008 335i 124K with new coils, packs,plugs, fuel injectors and walnut blasting. If I were to put the following car with the following mods what kind of power can I expect to see? I know mustang dyno's are different than dynojet etc.. and there can be quite a bit of variance but give me a ball park. I'm under the assumption with 15% drive train loss that with the below mod's I can achieve close to if not over 500HP or 425 WHP with out meth. Is this True or False?

Base Car 255WHP +120WHP (mod's below with gaps) = 375WHP (431HP) I'm missing 50WHP? What's the inter cooler net you? I dont see any numbers on this in the marketing info.

Manufactures typically exaggerate their claims or the conditions are such that's not typically street conditions or every day driving. So their numbers are typically inflated. so I'm a bit skeptical when they claim 20 WHP for a DCI. So it's hard to speculate how accurate any manufactures claims really are but this was taken from the website and a basis for measurement.
If people with real numbers based on empirical evidence (dyno sheet or virtual dyno) could chime in I'd appreciate it.

VSRF Catless Downpipes = 25-30 WHP
VSRF DCI =20 WHP
VSRF 7"FMIN=??
MHD Stage 2+ Tune = 75 WHP or 100hp

Can anyone confirm these mod's net you roughly 500HP? Based on my basic math I'm missing about 50whp how much does the intercooler provide (trick question)? The real question is with the listed mods how much power does the car really make? I've seen numbers all over the board. Remember that I've got no boost leaks new plugs, coils, and walnut blast so these are optimum conditions. No misfires etc... car is running great. Diagnosed by INPA

I am trying to justify in my frugal mind to spend $1500 on parts so I can join the 500HP club on my 3rd platform. I want to get there as affordable as possible.

In a nut shell I just want to know if I get DP's 7"FMIC and Tune would I be joining the 500HP club. Yes no maybe?

A 7" FMIC might net you 30-35hp

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Torgus

Personally I like the wired adapter for flashing. I just don't trust wireless but I am probably just paranoid. My luck the phone will connect to something stupid and brick my DME during flashing. It is a hassle for logging having a cable to a degree. I might permanently install a cable and have it all tucked away etc. Then just plug into the obd2 when needed.

Once you go past fbo I would get a custom tune they are relatively cheap all things considered. Like when you add inlets or outlets or run e mixes. It is not that the OTS maps are bad. But if you want to get the most out you need a custom tune and I do not believe any of the maps are designed for intakes and or outlets. It is also nice to run a tune for your specific mods and e85 mix if not full e85.

I should really get fuelly for my deleted 35d x5...

There's 2 things I do just to make sure, 1 is when you setup the IP address for the WiFi adapter there's an option I think to stay connected. The other thing I do is go into airplane mode when I flash just in case. No issues. Then logging you don't really have to worry much about it either cuz driving around. I love the orange adapter, connects with BL and Bimmercode too

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by stewbets

I'm sure colder plugs are just fine, but I ran a fairly aggressive ethanol tune for a year with stock turbos and stock plugs. My logs were OK and the car made good power (~450awhp). I've gone one step colder since replacing my turbos and I'd say they've cleaned up timing corrections a smidge, but this is at 525awhp. I ran the factory three-prongs for a bit with the new turbos and they were just fine. Just sharing my experience.

It's a crossover point for FBO/stock turbos. Both plugs are fine. I'm still on stockers, ran Bosch for years and switched to 1 step a few thousand miles ago. Both are fine.

[whyzee125]

I assume you’re referring to the ARM ad that appears a lot.

They never claim 500whp, just 500hp. Big difference.

The bolt ons give you all you need to run likely e30 or at least stage 2+. With a pro tune or on e30 fuel, 500 crank is realistic

[rev210]

I say ,just photoshop any dyno you get to say 500whp

Doesnt mean your car will be fast. Dynos are a tuning tool only.
Or get the dynojet 500rwhp print out after all the power adding mods for real and join the ranks of the many who still only run low 12s , lose roll races to much less powerful cars and are slower than a stock car around a circuit. 😊👍

The mods listed are all power adding but, if you cant stick it down , stop ,carry the extra speed into a corner or your motor pops then this is #n54life.
$1500 for 500hp mentality usually means a slow car thats likely unreliable too, spends even more time being towed to a workshop and off the road than a regular N54 powered bmw.

There is a thread like this on every car forum on the internet. In the sprit of this one we should create a 700whp ,1000whp and 2000whp version thread , with the rules being that we only discuss and encourage totally otherwise stock drivetrain components whilst only debating power adding requirements with emphasis on the cheapest way there. Although extra points for downgrading . Like using china service parts and attempting to race on a pair of emergency spare rims on the back (leaderboard for best times on draggy) . Kill stories if you beat a stock car in any official motorsport event with them on too.😄

[Saif2018]

500bhp at the crank is possible,