01-30-2024, 01:15 PM | #67 | |
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02-03-2024, 05:42 PM | #68 |
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it is wild that people sell cars instead of just putting some different pads on.... mindblown reading some of the posts in here
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M2siast5996.00 Chet for short203.50 |
02-27-2024, 07:24 AM | #69 |
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Most of the time, brake squeal is related to not having the brake pads and discs bed-in/burnished with each other. When you heat your brakes enough, the brake pads leave a light layer of pad material on the disc face (pad transfer layer). Then the pads ride on that layer of like material, rather than on the bare iron disc face. Think of it like rubbing your hands together, rather than running your hand over something smooth. The pad material on the disc face dampens noise.
When you drive your brakes and don't heat them up much, they work in an abrasive manner. They scrape the pad material off the disc face. If you daily drive, the pad transfer layer will gradually wear off, and you need to bed them in again to lay down a fresh pad transfer layer on the disc face. Below is a video on how to do a proper bed-in, and how to swap between street and race pads. If you digest everything in these two videos, you'll be armed with enough knowledge to keep your brakes quiet and working effectively. |
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02-29-2024, 10:53 AM | #71 | |
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Still seeing conflicting opinions on my particular situation, however, which is the occasional track day. What I'm reading is that most people think the popular low dust/noise options are great for daily driving, but probably should be avoided for track use. My track use consists of one track day per year. I've been doing this since 2007 with a Mustang GT, M235i, Camaro 2SS 1LE, and now have taken my M2C to Watkins Glen and Lime Rock. I run in the Intermediate run group, no mods, and I'm not out to set any records. I consider myself a casual track guy, with the main goals of having fun and bringing it home with the shiny side up. So bottom line, I'm not driving as hard as the Advanced group, and not doing deep, hard braking into the turns. I usually start braking more toward the beginning of the braking markers rather than the end. So I wonder what the recommendation is for a low noise pad that could hold up for a casual track day like mine once a year?
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02-29-2024, 06:53 PM | #72 | |
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03-01-2024, 08:11 PM | #73 | |
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03-01-2024, 08:27 PM | #74 | |
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You don't need to bleed breaks afterwards do you? |
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03-02-2024, 08:20 AM | #75 |
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There's a few youtube videos that show how to release the parking brake on the rear calipers. I was going to take some pics when I did it, but it was honestly so easy/quick that I forgot to snap some. You remove the parking brake actuator, open it & use a t-45 bit to retract it by turning the motor clockwise until it stops. The left front & right rear have the brake sensors, so be carful removing those as they are fragile. They can be reused. No bleeding is necessary, and engage/release the parking brake before driving as you might get a "parking brake malfunction error" initially, but doing this resets it.
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03-02-2024, 12:14 PM | #76 | |
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I'll believe < 20 minutes for all 4 when I see it though. I swap my winter and summer wheels every year in my garage, and that takes almost an hour. I'm sure I'm slower than most. Maybe after I did the brakes a couple times I could reduce the time, but I'm thinking it would definitely be over an hour for me. Was hoping there was a single set of pads that could do it all without squealing, but maybe there isn't.
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03-02-2024, 07:34 PM | #77 | |
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I swapped pads on both my wife's X3MC and my M2. I did the X3 first, honestly it was maybe 20 min. The X3's fronts are easier as you don't have to remove the caliper. The pads just slide out when you remove the pins & spring clip. On the M2 you do have to remove the front caliper to remove the pads, but it's two bolts. The rears are the same on both vehicles. It's honestly the easiest pad swap I've ever done, and I've done quite a few. It definitely shouldn't take you an hour. |
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03-03-2024, 12:28 AM | #78 |
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Everyone should first just try to bed in their pads correctly - google a bedding procedure from StopTech for examples and follow it.
If you are never tracking the car, then just swap the front pads which are the ones that tend to be noisy, for a ceramic, low dust street pad and you are done. If you are tracking the car regularly, then you are likely keeping the pads well bedded in anyway. It's not that complicated to address these issues without pulling your hair out.
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03-04-2024, 07:02 AM | #79 | |
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Guaranteed with brakes I would be even more careful and methodical. At least the first time. I have swapped pads and rotors before on my 2005 Mustang, so I have a general idea of the process. It's something I'd just rather not do every time I do a track day and then have to swap back afterwards.
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03-04-2024, 07:11 AM | #80 | |
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I'm thinking some it's partly luck of the draw. I have a friend who lives nearby and had an M2C, and he said he never had a brake squeal problem and his car was a daily driver like mine. Maybe we have different driving habits? It's just super frustrating. I had a Camaro 2SS 1LE with huge 6-piston Brembos and I never heard a peep from them in 3 years. Not one time.
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03-04-2024, 07:21 AM | #81 |
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Coming from 6 piston and 4 piston brembo Alfas and Nissan, plenty of miles on all three cars, enough to change front pads. Never heard pip from either car or pads. Mine kicked in at about 900miles, very inconsistent as to when besides low speed driving in parking lots but still inconsistent. Dealer inspected everything during break in service, result... live with it.
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03-04-2024, 09:22 AM | #82 | |
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Raise your car by the rear pad, and you’ll be able to remove both wheels on the same side. So you’ll lift the car twice only and remove 4 wheels. |
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03-04-2024, 11:00 AM | #83 | |
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03-04-2024, 07:24 PM | #84 | |
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These brake systems can be designed to not squeal. I'm not sure why BMW can't get it done even with the OEM pads.
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03-04-2024, 07:33 PM | #85 | ||
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03-04-2024, 07:38 PM | #86 | |
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Having said that, it should be fairly easy to determine which brakes are generating the squeal front (most likely) or rears (less likely) and change just those for track. If you are doing just fronts and just doing the pads and nothing else you can do both methodically and carefully in 30-40 min. I never change just pads though. When I change pads, I also bleed the brakes to get rid or the old brake fluid that just bakes in the caliper - this way I always have fresh fluid in - better than doing a flush once a year, so it takes me about 1 hr per axle.
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03-04-2024, 07:44 PM | #87 | |
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I did bed them in and they smelled and smoked like an SoB, so I submit that they still need to be bedded in. If it is true that they are relying just on abrasion that is bad news and that will eat pads and rotors on track like a b@$#.
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03-04-2024, 07:48 PM | #88 | |
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