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E90 ANGEL EYES ONLY DONE!! fully functional, no errors!
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01-01-2008, 12:24 PM | #67 | |
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What specs should be related to the resistor? What kind of resistor would you use? I too think that a resistor would be the way to go over using a dummy bulb but what kind? Thanks!
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01-01-2008, 10:09 PM | #68 | |
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Long time no see . Happy New Year! I don't remember exactly bulb specs. I'll have to go look for my notes. But if we assume it is 10W than calc is: R=V*V/P=12*12/10=14.4 Ohms and if it is 30W than R=4.8. The easiest way I'd go about it would be to buy a few 3-5 Ohms resistors and play with sequential/parallel combinations. Since there are a couple different bulb specs that work without throwing a code I think you are going to land at or about R=10 Ohms and 20-30 Watts resistor.
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01-06-2008, 09:18 AM | #69 | |
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I just saw this post. Well, I did it the day before yesterday and I'm extremely pleased! My angels eyes are tied into a line that not only works when the ignition is running but it works when ever I use any kind of electricity in the car. So every time I unlock the door the angel eyes come on! I ended up purchasing a 25W 2 ohm and a 25W 3 ohm resistor because I thought either would be fine. They didn't work so I was thinking about Jlevi using 6 ohm resistors, so I put the 2 ohm and 3 ohm in line making it a 5 ohm resistor and it worked. All in all, Everything works great! My angels eyes are now my DRLs and I get no codes when I turn the lights on. This has to be one of the best mods that I've done! Thanks to the OP for coming up with this!
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01-06-2008, 08:49 PM | #70 | |
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Thanks
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01-06-2008, 09:52 PM | #72 |
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I put the OEM connectors through the hole that I drilled in the angel eye cover. I connected the resistors and then tied them with a 20 gauge wire to a place where the resistors wouldn't be touching any plastic. The wire is only touching the metal connector of the resistor.
These resistors get extremely hot so I made sure that it didn't touch anything that was combustible. The driver's side is stable in mid air (first pic) and the passenger's side is also stable resting against the frame (second pic). What's good about the resistors being outside of the cover is that when driving, the air that's going through the engine compartment will help cool them down. Another thing, I used black wire for both my + and - so the wires would be hidden easier. I also grounded each side to a screw that was bolted into the frame right by each light. The 3rd and 4th pics are the angel eyes. They look bright in the pics but really aren't that bright in the day time. I need to get some lux's.
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01-06-2008, 09:56 PM | #73 |
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Oh also, These resistors ended up being just over $5 for all four resistors.
So if I would have gotten two 5 ohm resistors they would have been around $2.50! Not bad huh? This has to be the best mod!!
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01-06-2008, 10:14 PM | #74 |
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I mean this in a good way, but what the fuck!!! LOL Do you launch space shuttles or something
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01-07-2008, 09:35 PM | #75 |
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LOL What I wrote above was high school level (at least in my school it was) but I did get my first MS in design of robotic systems that can build shuttles and such, so in a way I guess you are right
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01-08-2008, 06:08 PM | #76 |
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I just talked to some engineers at work and they said that I should be fine with 25 watt resistors but it would better safe than sorry to go with the 50 watt resistor. I don't want anything to happen so I might as well be safe.
I just ordered the 50 watt 6 ohm resistors from these guys: http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=113 They have the best price including shipping that I've seen.
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01-10-2008, 12:09 PM | #77 |
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I just took a reading of the 25 watt resistors that are currently on my car.
I did a test, which was putting on my parking lights for an hour and then taking the temperature of the resistors. I used a Raytek MT4 Infrared Thermometer to take the mesurement of the resistors and the temperature was 426 degrees F! This is why going with a 50 watt finned resistor would be much safer. Thought I would let you guys know.
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01-11-2008, 10:48 AM | #78 |
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If only this mod were easier
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01-12-2008, 10:42 PM | #79 |
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It really isn't that bad. It's not hard, but it takes time to jack the car take the wheel housing off, get to the ecu, etc.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
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03-04-2008, 04:56 PM | #80 |
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If I understand this right, this won't quite work in my Canadian spec'd e90. Our cars are coded in a way that it is impossible to turn off DRLs via iDrive or the Stalk. My understanding here is that you guys turn off DRLs and just wire the angel bulbs into a switched power source.
I'm going to be performing a retrofit so bear with me, I'm not 100% sure on which bulb is the OEM DRL. Is it the corner light or the halogen bulb? I guess I could effectively do this mod like stated here but that halogen bulb would remain illuminated with the angels lit as well?
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03-05-2008, 07:41 AM | #81 |
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wow...nice job
but i wouldnt even go near the electrical system... lunch & dinner on me..lol if you guys come to NY |
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04-10-2008, 05:03 PM | #82 |
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agreed. this seems like it would be better handled by someone other than myself... if someone wants to take a ride up here ill pay good money for your time
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04-10-2008, 05:28 PM | #83 |
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I would if I were closer
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04-11-2008, 08:02 AM | #84 |
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my car didnt come with xenons. i had halogens..and i dont have navi. but when i swapped the lights to xenons, i was able to turn off the DRLs thru the car settings. when i unlock the car, the angel lights go on! my xenons were wired internally to be plug n play
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05-10-2008, 03:33 PM | #86 | |
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Quote:
and go for the resistors. What are the final specs you recommend for the resistors? and where to get them? Thanks.
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06-06-2008, 08:55 PM | #87 |
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You guys are life savers!! I am going to do this one of these weekends with resistors.
I knew it was possible but thank you for doing all the leg work!
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06-06-2008, 10:14 PM | #88 |
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i was thinking bout putting infrared (e90 sedan) halogen bulb in place of the DRL so you'd get no light output but the DRL mode would leave the angel eyes on.
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