[mid-corner fun]

On the topic of updated track setups:

- After 4 years of using Kosei K1s I'm ditching them for Apex EC7s this year, there should be a group buy opening in March. The K1s have served me well but they need to be treated as consumables and inspected often, they eventually crack on the inside lip.

- Also ditching the dimpled/slotted brakeperformance rotors in favor of blanks. No slots, no dimples, no drilled holes, just blanks treated as another consumable item.

- Replacing the NT01s with the new Star Spec (Direzza II) for the first half of the year and maybe the Rival for the 2nd half of the year. The NT01 is a good tire but I've missed the days of being able to run in the rain with the Star Specs, it's very dangerous to do so on worn out NT01s.

[UltraRacer13]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Do your pads have the metal clip in the back? If not, do they vibrate like hell at medium/low speed?

Mine do (have the clips). I saw your post and was going to reply but got lazy. They do not rattle at all. They sound like a dump truck if you run them on the street, which I highly reccommend you don't. I love these pads!

[CJ421]

I run my PFC 08 on the street; they squeak after they warm up a bit but it's not that loud; they also create quite a bit of brake dust, but otherwise they've been fine.

I hate changing brake pads!

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by mid-corner fun

On the topic of updated track setups:

- After 4 years of using Kosei K1s I'm ditching them for Apex EC7s this year, there should be a group buy opening in March. The K1s have served me well but they need to be treated as consumables and inspected often, they eventually crack on the inside lip.

- Also ditching the dimpled/slotted brakeperformance rotors in favor of blanks. No slots, no dimples, no drilled holes, just blanks treated as another consumable item.

- Replacing the NT01s with the new Star Spec (Direzza II) for the first half of the year and maybe the Rival for the 2nd half of the year. The NT01 is a good tire but I've missed the days of being able to run in the rain with the Star Specs, it's very dangerous to do so on worn out NT01s.

Did you end up getting the M3? How come you are still tracking the 3er?

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by CJ421

I run my PFC 08 on the street; they squeak after they warm up a bit but it's not that loud; they also create quite a bit of brake dust, but otherwise they've been fine.

I hate changing brake pads!

Race pads when cold (they will never heat up on the street really) will be VERY hard on your rotors. You may not mind since stock rotors are going to be disposable anyway, but just FYI.

[UltraRacer13]

Originally Posted by CJ421

I run my PFC 08 on the street; they squeak after they warm up a bit but it's not that loud; they also create quite a bit of brake dust, but otherwise they've been fine.

I hate changing brake pads!

Mine sounded and felt like blocks of concrete on the rotors. Especially when it was below 50 degrees ambient.

It takes maybe 8 minutes a corner to change pads. But I enjoy messing with car, so even if it took longer i wouldn't mind.

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by UltraRacer13

Mine sounded and felt like blocks of concrete on the rotors. Especially when it was below 50 degrees ambient.

It takes maybe 8 minutes a corner to change pads. But I enjoy messing with car, so even if it took longer i wouldn't mind.

Changing pads at the frequency I visit the track would result in a lot of bedding/de-bedding sessions. I went with the PFC 08 because they were supposedly easier on rotors than traditional race pads (I steered clear of the 01's).

Edit: as a matter of fact, how does one constantly switch pads? Is bedding required for each switch (and is that even possible with pads that have been used previously?)?

Next time around I may go with even less aggressive pads since I have custom ducting now, which has kept me fade free. Without the ducting I was noticeably fading my brakes about halfway through a session (with SS lines, high temp fluid, plus the PFC 08's), now with the ducting it's almost like they don't get up to temp quickly enough ...

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by CJ421

Changing pads at the frequency I visit the track would result in a lot of bedding/de-bedding sessions. I went with the PFC 08 because they were supposedly easier on rotors than traditional race pads (I steered clear of the 01's).

Edit: as a matter of fact, how does one constantly switch pads? Is bedding required for each switch (and is that even possible with pads that have been used previously?)?

Next time around I may go with even less aggressive pads since I have custom ducting now, which has kept me fade free. Without the ducting I was noticeably fading my brakes about halfway through a session (with SS lines, high temp fluid, plus the PFC 08's), now with the ducting it's almost like they don't get up to temp quickly enough ...

With race pads, here's what I do. I put the race pads on Thursday before a weekend track event. Driving too/from the track will scrape off the transfer layer from your street pads. PFC01/06/08 do not require bedding so I just go on the track and rock 'n roll.

Come home and put my street pads back on, and re-bed them monday or tuesday, and that transfer layer stays until I re-do the process at the next track event.

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

With race pads, here's what I do. I put the race pads on Thursday before a weekend track event. Driving too/from the track will scrape off the transfer layer from your street pads. PFC01/06/08 do not require bedding so I just go on the track and rock 'n roll.

Come home and put my street pads back on, and re-bed them monday or tuesday, and that transfer layer stays until I re-do the process at the next track event.

Ah. I'd switch out my race pads if they didn't work well cold, but the 08's do and ...eh, where's the motivation.

I've managed 19 track days/17k total miles on my stock rotors thus far. The PFC08's have been on for 10 track days/4k miles, and there's still plenty of pad left. I'm impressed.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

With race pads, here's what I do. I put the race pads on Thursday before a weekend track event. Driving too/from the track will scrape off the transfer layer from your street pads. PFC01/06/08 do not require bedding so I just go on the track and rock 'n roll.

Come home and put my street pads back on, and re-bed them monday or tuesday, and that transfer layer stays until I re-do the process at the next track event.

+1

This has worked well for me for the last couple of years, flipping between Hawk track and street compounds respectively.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Did you end up getting the M3? How come you are still tracking the 3er?

Who says I'm tracking the 3er? or an M3 or a Z4? or a 550? Or a 760Li? All I've said in another thread is that I'm tracking a BMW this year

[neilvosko]

why not just have a set of rotors+pads for Track and a separate set (like drilled rotors+pads) for street. no need to worry about the bed in.

[3002 tii]

PFC 06's are fine for street in terms of wear. I still ran Z-rated street pads off-track but there were times where events were only 2 weeks apart so I kept the 06's and they were ok. The benefit to running both PFC-branded pads was that I really didn't have to bed them in on/off track since the pad material was really similar. So 2 pads, and 1 set of rotors worked fine for me. And I did about 10+ days last year...

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by neilvosko

why not just have a set of rotors+pads for Track and a separate set (like drilled rotors+pads) for street. no need to worry about the bed in.

You could, it just gets to be a lot more work, particularly if you have upgraded calipers where the pads can be swapped out the top... it takes me longer to get the wheel off than it does to swap pads.

[Mavus]

Originally Posted by mid-corner fun

On the topic of updated track setups:

- After 4 years of using Kosei K1s I'm ditching them for Apex EC7s this year, there should be a group buy opening in March. The K1s have served me well but they need to be treated as consumables and inspected often, they eventually crack on the inside lip.

- Also ditching the dimpled/slotted brakeperformance rotors in favor of blanks. No slots, no dimples, no drilled holes, just blanks treated as another consumable item.

- Replacing the NT01s with the new Star Spec (Direzza II) for the first half of the year and maybe the Rival for the 2nd half of the year. The NT01 is a good tire but I've missed the days of being able to run in the rain with the Star Specs, it's very dangerous to do so on worn out NT01s.

Is there a specific reson that you prefer Direzza over PS2 or PSS? I ran PS2 at WG last Sept in the rain and they were excellent. I am shopping for 17" 255/40 rubber now to go with new ARC-8 wheels. I saw on Tirercak that PS2 in this size is Porsche rubber. Also, did you try RE-11?

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by mid-corner fun

Who says I'm tracking the 3er? or an M3 or a Z4? or a 550? Or a 760Li? All I've said in another thread is that I'm tracking a BMW this year

Ok, so 335I then. May I suggest cobb instead of procede?

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Do your pads have the metal clip in the back? If not, do they vibrate like hell at medium/low speed?

My 06's came with pads but they break off pretty easily after a couple swaps. Since then, yes they rattle a lot over bumps.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by NokTurNaL 330i

Is there a specific reson that you prefer Direzza over PS2 or PSS? I ran PS2 at WG last Sept in the rain and they were excellent. I am shopping for 17" 255/40 rubber now to go with new ARC-8 wheels. I saw on Tirercak that PS2 in this size is Porsche rubber. Also, did you try RE-11?

Starspecs will last longer than PS2 from track usage. Not to mention SS are cheaper than both PS2 and RE11. Basically SS are the best bang for buck tire for performance driving. I have both SS and RS3's and I prefer the SS.

[Mavus]

Originally Posted by DSC_OFF

Starspecs will last longer than PS2 from track usage. Not to mention SS are cheaper than both PS2 and RE11. Basically SS are the best bang for buck tire for performance driving. I have both SS and RS3's and I prefer the SS.

Thanks. I think I will get a set. I am definitely looking for the best value.

[neoduffer]

Where are your cars at for ride height? Figures below are my measurements from the fender to the center of the wheel.

F: 13.5
R: 12.5

I'm getting the feeling that my rear is too low and it is probably riding on the bumpstops too much. I'm curious what everyone else is running. Suspension is AST 4100s with spring rates of 400F/672R.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by NokTurNaL 330i

Is there a specific reson that you prefer Direzza over PS2 or PSS? I ran PS2 at WG last Sept in the rain and they were excellent. I am shopping for 17" 255/40 rubber now to go with new ARC-8 wheels. I saw on Tirercak that PS2 in this size is Porsche rubber. Also, did you try RE-11?

As DSCOFF said, excellent historical cost/performance ratio. And the new SS (apparently now called just Direzza II) is presumably improved over the SS we know.

[eriktufa]

took the liberty to start a spreadsheet for you guys.

Feel free to modify and add your own setup.

I can only start from somewhere so I will make it prettier as we get more data inside.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...BeFg1Rmc#gid=0

If you guys don't like it please ignore I'm just trying to help everyone