[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by Syndicategt

Looks like I got another weekend project. Man these things are starting to add up!

LOL You guys crack me up as this is far from a weekend project.. It will take all but 6 minutes to do this mod...2 minutes to glue the 2 orings together and let dry, then cut it on one side, then another 2 minutes to put two drops of crazy glue to the throttle pedal where you are going to glue the orings, rotate the orings to get glue to both sides and then let dry! Wait another 2 minutes and then stomp on it and presto no kickdown button..

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by cwn23

I solved the puzzle for now...Get some Orings for water faucets preferably the black rounded ones and crazy glue 2 of them together (pic 1) and then cut it so that your able to spread it over the throttle pedal (pic 2)...Put some glue sparingly on the round part where the oring will be placed over the throttle pedal kickdown button and rotate it to get the other surrounding area. The two orings glued together is the perfect height to prevent the throttle pedal to travel anymore to trigger the button ( you can actually hear a click before I placed the orings but no more after) ..I tried it out and its gold...Its just enough not to trigger the button and make it click for over-drive! Damn thing is annoying...No matter how I try not to hit the kick down button, there are occasions that I do and the engine suddenly revs like there is no tomorrow and I cant stand it!!!Here are some pics...

Tried this with the same o-rings and it still kicks-down? I tried it I M mode and it was in 4th and I punched it and it went to 3rd...maybe I have the O-rings in the wrong place? I don't see how though lol!

What is weird is when I push the pedal down it does not "click" but does downshift a gear still in M mode?

[LuSt4Boost]

Practice, practice, practice...creates muscle memory . Im to the point now that the kickdown is no longer an issue, even on the track.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by LuSt4Boost

Practice, practice, practice...creates muscle memory . Im to the point now that the kickdown is no longer an issue, even on the track.

Mine is real easy to kickdown..used to not be lol!

What is weird is it's not doing the "high reving" thing it used to do. Usually th kickdown down-shifts 2 gears but now only does 1... Very wierd.

[Velocity26]

I have been wanting to attack this project for a while and seeing this post again was all the motivation I needed.

I have a 2010 335i M-Sport and do not have a pedal with the shaft, as shown in the OP. My Pedal is pretty close to the one shown on post 36.

I used my Cobb to check the throttle position and compared that to my pedal position. When the Cobb shows 100% throttle, I still have .2" of additional travel left in my pedal. This final .2" of travel bends an additional plastic plate to give you that tactile "feel" of the kickdown. I searched my scrap wood pile and found a small piece of wood that was just shy of .2". i attached a small strip of 2 sided tape that made the thickness just barely over .2" before compression.

Now the pedal reaches 100% throttle, just as it touches the stop and does not travel past the 100% position.

[saxon]

That kickdown switch is such a hassle, threw my car on the Dyno today and the Dyno operator said he couldnt get the car to not switch gears on its own, ended up having to tell him about this to get a proper reading

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

I have been wanting to attack this project for a while and seeing this post again was all the motivation I needed.

I have a 2010 335i M-Sport and do not have a pedal with the shaft, as shown in the OP. My Pedal is pretty close to the one shown on post 36.

I used my Cobb to check the throttle position and compared that to my pedal position. When the Cobb shows 100% throttle, I still have .2" of additional travel left in my pedal. This final .2" of travel bends an additional plastic plate to give you that tactile "feel" of the kickdown. I searched my scrap wood pile and found a small piece of wood that was just shy of .2". i attached a small strip of 2 sided tape that made the thickness just barely over .2" before compression.

Now the pedal reaches 100% throttle, just as it touches the stop and does not travel past the 100% position.

I have pedal with the shaft and it seems like the kickdown shifts with out the clicking sound?

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by saxon

That kickdown switch is such a hassle, threw my car on the Dyno today and the Dyno operator said he couldnt get the car to not switch gears on its own, ended up having to tell him about this to get a proper reading

Agreed, it is like it has 2 stages almost lol!!

[Wedge1967]

Post 42 is good, but the shaft has a ball on the end that clicks into a socket on the back of the peddle. If you don't want to cut the O-Ring, pop the peddle from the shaft and snap it back on after you put the O-Ring in place. If you're using a Procede, even if you use an O-Ring that is too thick or more than one, you can calibrate your throttle position once you're finished. Sorry I don't have any pictures to post, but very simple to do.

[cn555ic]

I have the Oring on my AT and it seemed to cure the kickdown shift. Maybe you guys need to get a thicker one installed as the one you are using is giving too much travel which enters the kickdown zone..

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I have the Oring on my AT and it seemed to cure the kickdown shift. Maybe you guys need to get a thicker one installed as the one you are using is giving too much travel which enters the kickdown zone..

Maybe, so when you are in say M4 snd floor it......it doesn't go to M3 at all? I will admit that it had a click before and now it doesn't but still kicks down for some reason but not the way it used to....weird

I may add another flat washer for a bit more height....just want to make sure I am getting full throttle....will log afterwards.

[robc1976]

I believe these are the ones used in the pics:

http://www.starnursery.com/catalog/p...91/image/1212/

I used these (2) of them and the kickdown still gets hit do maybe the ones I used are not as thick? They are made by orbit??

I used these:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Orbit-Rubb...r-Set/16332366

[robc1976]

Can someone post a pic of the 2 rings thickness next to a ruler if you have spares laying around?

[michaelalex17]

if i have a jb3 how would i change maps?

[TNganele]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

if i have a jb3 how would i change maps?

x2

[georgelb]

I don't know about changing maps, as I've got Cobb, but I tried the hose washers on mine with no luck. So, I set out for home depot today, with a rubber washer in hand, to get it good and fixed. I looked around for awhile at washers and grommets and such until I found this coupler, intended for irrigation systems. I knew it was what I was looking for, so I paid my $0.80 (after tax) and headed home.


Once home, I took the assembly out and checked travel.

This is all the way down, obviously (the dirty bits are the left over rubber from those dang washers...had to trim it off with a razor blade)





And this is at 100% right when you hit the kick down resistance.





The rod attaches to the pedal with a pressure fitting





And there are two clips at the bottom that let the pedal slide off





I had to slide the pedal off before I was able to get the ball out of it's socket, but after that it was pie.





Here's the modified hose coupler after several adjustments; mine ended up at 21/32 in high. The top is roughed up because at first I was going to install it under the pedal itself, and it looked good like that, but I didn't want gravity and repeated clacking make it come off at an inopportune time.





Installed on the pedal assembly





And in the car





After I got the pedal re-installed I plugged in my AP and measured pedal position, and it tops out at 100%, no matter how hard I decide to mash it down. =)

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by georgelb

I don't know about changing maps, as I've got Cobb, but I tried the hose washers on mine with no luck. So, I set out for home depot today, with a rubber washer in hand, to get it good and fixed. I looked around for awhile at washers and grommets and such until I found this coupler, intended for irrigation systems. I knew it was what I was looking for, so I paid my $0.80 (after tax) and headed home.


Once home, I took the assembly out and checked travel.

This is all the way down, obviously (the dirty bits are the left over rubber from those dang washers...had to trim it off with a razor blade)





And this is at 100% right when you hit the kick down resistance.





The rod attaches to the pedal with a pressure fitting





And there are two clips at the bottom that let the pedal slide off





I had to slide the pedal off before I was able to get the ball out of it's socket, but after that it was pie.





Here's the modified hose coupler after several adjustments; mine ended up at 21/32 in high. The top is roughed up because at first I was going to install it under the pedal itself, and it looked good like that, but I didn't want gravity and repeated clacking make it come off at an inopportune time.





Installed on the pedal assembly





And in the car





After I got the pedal re-installed I plugged in my AP and measured pedal position, and it tops out at 100%, no matter how hard I decide to mash it down. =)

Sweet!!!!!! Going to homedepot now!!!! Couldn't you just cut it on one side like the washer mod or will it be to weak. You can take the pedal off with out removing he assembly from the car correct?

[georgelb]

Yeah, you can get the pedal off with it in the car, its just a tight space and my garage was 104 degrees, so I didn't want to be out there while doing all the measuring, cutting, filing, etc. =)

You could probably cut one side and slip it under there too, it should still be plenty sturdy. The pedal doesn't hit it squarely though, so it'd probably be best to have the cut on the bottom side (pedal hits the top side) or angle the base of it so it hits the entire surface.


Edit: there's only one Allen screw holding it in though. You loosen the screw (under a cap at the bottom) and then slide it up and unhook the electrical connector.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by georgelb

Yeah, you can get the pedal off with it in the car, its just a tight space and my garage was 104 degrees, so I didn't want to be out there while doing all the measuring, cutting, filing, etc. =)

You could probably cut one side and slip it under there too, it should still be plenty sturdy. The pedal doesn't hit it squarely though, so it'd probably be best to have the cut on the bottom side (pedal hits the top side) or angle the base of it so it hits the entire surface.


Edit: there's only one Allen screw holding it in though. You loosen the screw (under a cap at the bottom) and then slide it up and unhook the electrical connector.

Went to home depot and they didn't have it, what section did you find this in...I looked in plumbing and where they sell irrigation and they didn't have it. Employee said the closest thing they have to it was PVC lol!!

[georgelb]

It was with the sprinkler heads and drip irrigation stuff; they had lots of different sizes of elbows and tees and couplers.

[Longboarder]

Doing an hour on the dyno on the 18th and then another track/roll-on event in early June and I don't want this F'ing kickdown interfering. Glued two washers together then taped them. Took like 3 minutes. Seems to work fine. Will probably need to re-tape unless I just super glue them. My car is a 2010 and seems to have a different throttle mechanism that what I've seen here.

[happy4nk8er]

I did this with surgical tape and a piece if meth tubing. 30 seconds and it's been on for nearly a year and I do hit 100% throttle opening.