[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pk_

Can I purchase the filters in store for the Mahle/Mann filters?

Advanced Auto Parts usually carries them, but they won't have the O-rings for the oil filter housing and copper washer for the drain plug.

[pk_]

Good call on the o-rings.... and Ive been hearing people not have a copper wash for the drain plug? If I run into this is this something I should be worried about? Do you need to replace this thing EVERY oil change?

[PascalsWager]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Advanced Auto Parts usually carries them, but they won't have the O-rings for the oil filter housing and copper washer for the drain plug.

The Mann oil filters at my Advance came with the gaskets and crush washer?

I go with Mann/0w-30 German Castrol. I wouldn't think of putting a fram, Bosch or other oil filter in when oem is available OTC and cheap.

Interval is 7500 miles between changes, and I like to do them myself for the myriad reasons listed by others. Top off other fluids, visual inspection, quick wipe down. Have done all of my own oil changes since I was 16.

-PW

[stanlalee]

I'm surprised no Liqui/Lubro Moly users. Every independent european car shop in this area has it plastered on the window and use as the shop oil. I've only had my car long enough for one oil change and that's what they put in it. Is it reputable? One thing I notice about oil is most of people have their favorite based on word of mouth or what their daddy always used with only a few taking the time to do oil analysis.I recon most reputable brands that meet oem criteria will result in long lasting internals. I usually stick to whatever the dealer puts in (but my first oil change I was in a independent shop for something else and just happened to need an oil change, the Liqui Moly wasn't cheap!).

[roundle]

I have been in Europe since 2006 (London 2006-2008; Netherlands 2008-present) and have never seen this stuff (nor have I seen Royal Purple, RedLine, or Amsoil).

Out here, it's all about Castrol, Shell, Mobil, and just a bit of Motul.

Originally Posted by stanlalee

I'm surprised no Liqui/Lubro Moly users. Every independent european car shop in this area has it plastered on the window and use as the shop oil. I've only had my car long enough for one oil change and that's what they put in it. Is it reputable? One thing I notice about oil is most of people have their favorite based on word of mouth or what their daddy always used with only a few taking the time to do oil analysis.I recon most reputable brands that meet oem criteria will result in long lasting internals. I usually stick to whatever the dealer puts in (but my first oil change I was in a independent shop for something else and just happened to need an oil change, the Liqui Moly wasn't cheap!).

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by stanlalee

I'm surprised no Liqui/Lubro Moly users. Every independent european car shop in this area has it plastered on the window and use as the shop oil. I've only had my car long enough for one oil change and that's what they put in it. Is it reputable?

It's a big-time oil in Europe. I would not expect any problems at all.

Actually, I would not expect any problems with most oils that meet or at least come close to BMW's LL-01 or LL-04 specs. It's a little easier to look for the ACEA ratings than LL-01/-04 (ACEA A3/B3-4 for LL-01, and add a C4 to the end for -04, which indicates low-ash for low-sulfur fuel) If you're using an LL-04 oil or something that is not LL-01, I'd be sure to not go the full 15K-18K interval, and UOA (Blackstone labs or other) testing might be nice.

My only gripe is actually with advertising ("meets or exceeds BMW standards") when they just can't take the time to get a lab to actually certify it to the standard. Just plain deceptive IMO. It's obvious that Royal Purple, Amsoil and others perform pretty well, but I think a measure of caution is in order.

Here are some older lists of oils; European centered but still useful (there are more LL-01 & LL-04 oils around in the US/CA than on these lists.)
http://www.europeancarweb.com/news/e...s/viewall.html
http://www.auto-treff.com/bmw/vb/sho...d.php?t=112358

And www.bobistheoilguy.com (BITOG) has more info and opinions that are ever posted in these "oil" threads on all the BMW forums.

[roundle]

I have been in Europe since 2006 (London 2006-2008; Netherlands 2008-present) and have never seen this stuff (nor have I seen Royal Purple, RedLine, or Amsoil).

Out here, it's all about Castrol, Shell, Mobil, and just a bit of Motul.

Originally Posted by stanlalee

I'm surprised no Liqui/Lubro Moly users. Every independent european car shop in this area has it plastered on the window and use as the shop oil. I've only had my car long enough for one oil change and that's what they put in it. Is it reputable? One thing I notice about oil is most of people have their favorite based on word of mouth or what their daddy always used with only a few taking the time to do oil analysis.I recon most reputable brands that meet oem criteria will result in long lasting internals. I usually stick to whatever the dealer puts in (but my first oil change I was in a independent shop for something else and just happened to need an oil change, the Liqui Moly wasn't cheap!).

[Ion619]

Castrol Syn

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by pk_

Good call on the o-rings.... and Ive been hearing people not have a copper wash for the drain plug? If I run into this is this something I should be worried about? Do you need to replace this thing EVERY oil change?

It's called a CRUSH washer for a reason. Single use only (not critical, but you may see seepage if you don't change it).

[Philz BMW]

Originally Posted by mansito

For some of us it is not about paying the man, getting a loaner, having someone else do it, etc. It is about having the satisfaction of doing the work ourselves, knowing the job was done right (i.e. right oil, right amount of oil, right torque specs, etc.)

I can afford to pay the dealer, but approximately every 7500 miles as part of the oil change routine, I enjoy the process of inspecting the under-carriage for leaks + worn out parts + overall cleaning.

Good for you, and apparently you are right. After searching the forum I found that the only BMW's to make it past the 100k mile mark were one's where the owners themselves had meticulously changed the oil. Every other car had a piston shoot through the hood, and erupted into flames after 20k miles.

Additionally another fun fact: Only cars which are hand washed and waxed (minimum of 5 hours each time) actually have paint on them after 2 years. Cars which are run through a car wash turn to dust.

[Seattlesquash]

Did we have a few pints maybe! Love the energy!

[mansito]

Originally Posted by Seattlesquash

Did we have a few pints maybe! Love the energy!

LOL. Friday night alcohol running through Philz's veins.

[SP3333D]

Originally Posted by Philz BMW

Good for you, and apparently you are right. After searching the forum I found that the only BMW's to make it past the 100k mile mark were one's where the owners themselves had meticulously changed the oil. Every other car had a piston shoot through the hood, and erupted into flames after 20k miles.

Additionally another fun fact: Only cars which are hand washed and waxed (minimum of 5 hours each time) actually have paint on them after 2 years. Cars which are run through a car wash turn to dust.

LMAO

[runningdoc]

Originally Posted by stanlalee

I'm surprised no Liqui/Lubro Moly users. Every independent european car shop in this area has it plastered on the window and use as the shop oil. I've only had my car long enough for one oil change and that's what they put in it. Is it reputable? One thing I notice about oil is most of people have their favorite based on word of mouth or what their daddy always used with only a few taking the time to do oil analysis.I recon most reputable brands that meet oem criteria will result in long lasting internals. I usually stick to whatever the dealer puts in (but my first oil change I was in a independent shop for something else and just happened to need an oil change, the Liqui Moly wasn't cheap!).

Typically, it is the same price as OEM BMW synthetic oil... you can get it from BAVarian autosport... Supposedly it is superior to the OEM oil in its formulation. It is commonly used in Europe in European Cars (i.e. volvo, BMW, Benz, etc)... Stats say Its formula reduces friction by more than other synthetics for better protection, gas milage, and performance.

Meets API Service SM/CF
Meets ACEA A3/B4 requirements
Meets BMW Longlife - 04 standards

I wonder if anyone has any experience with it here?

[Philz BMW]

Originally Posted by Seattlesquash

Did we have a few pints maybe! Love the energy!

Only Patron my friend.

[Seattlesquash]

Did anyone find a reason to go with an aftermarket oil filter? I have always been running OEM on this car, at 94k now.

[mansito]

Originally Posted by Seattlesquash

Did anyone find a reason to go with an aftermarket oil filter? I have always been running OEM on this car, at 94k now.

I noticed something interesting a few weeks back. When you go to Purolator website to find the filter for your car, the site displays a MANN filter. I wonder if Purolator and MANN are owned by the same parent company.

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by floydarogers

There are problems with Rotella
1) It's actually an oil designed for diesel engines and for use in commercial heavy-duty trucks. Far different than gasoline engines.
2) BMW has taken the tack (mostly for the extended drain intervals it specifies) that any oil should be ACEA A3/B3-4, not E9. There is more TBN in A3/B3-4 than in the E9 spec.
3) It doesn't come close to meeting BMW's LL-01 oil (probably comes closer to LL-04 due to the low ash formula). Remember, oil in our engines have to act as hydraulic oil for the VANOS solenoids, and has to be ok in aluminum blocks and plastic oil pans. None of those are considerations for diesel truck engines.
4) It isn't an SL or SM API oil, which is what BMW specs for top-offs (but not for fills.)

Well, it's worked well for me and many many other gas turbo enthusiasts, MHO. My understanding and reading is that the low ash would be a benefit to us? I change my oil every 5k as I don't buy the argument that this is not necessary as I've inspected way to many engines that failed due to extended interval. Granted, this platform seems to do better then most with the longer intervals. In the end, it's just like everything else, especially with enthusiasts, to each his own!

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by jnat

... My understanding and reading is that the low ash would be a benefit to us? I change my oil every 5k as I don't buy the argument that this is not necessary as I've inspected way to many engines that failed due to extended interval...

Low ash is not a benefit for gas engines in the US/CA, since we don't have ultra-low sulfur fuel like Europe (ours is ~200 ppm while EU is 10 ppm). It is a benefit - in fact required - for diesel engines (which E9/Rotella is designed for) because diesel is 15 ppm (EU it's 10 ppm) and the PDF/oxidation catalyst and SCR catalysts would get ruined by the ash (gas cats use catalysts that survive better.) Note that BMW does not use an LL-04 oil in US cars precisely for this reason.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, if you change your oil often, the lower TBN of the E9/Rotella won't matter.

[Ark10bimmer]

Where can I get European castrol at in America?

[ashmostro]

Lots of brick and mortars carry it. I get mine from Amazon Prime. $47 per 6 pack.

[pk_]

I used Mobil 1 Euro LL01 with OEM Filter, car runs significantly smoother. Maybe because the oil change was up. In my area, cant get this in 5L Jugs, had to buy 7 1L Jugs for my e92, kinda sucks but whatever. I must say, bmw made the oil change pretty easy, maybe because I followed a great DYI.

$113.00 for an oil change. Such a difference from paying the dealer everytime. This forum kicks ass.
(7) 1Ltr Bottles : $93.00
(1) OEM Oil Filter: $20.00