[najin23]

Originally Posted by neilvosko

yeah, its a dual setup so i have a cooler in each wheel well.

how do you do this? Who's making it? I really want to keep my oem OC and get another one on the left fender. Did you modify?

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by najin23

how do you do this? Who's making it? I really want to keep my oem OC and get another one on the left fender. Did you modify?

Like this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773556. This kit comes with the necessary elements to get rid of your OEM OC which is tiny. The ducting is one of the most important things about this setup.

[neilvosko]

+1

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

How's that osgiken LSD? Do you have the default ratio?(I think it's like 50/40, or something like that)

Got this installed the week before christmas, and in for a short update (since you asked).

The car actually goes forward now at all times; alarmingly fast especially in 2nd gear which used to be mostly useless around town. 2nd now mostly hooks up on any kind of decent road, and even when its spinning it provides a lot of forward velocity.

The Giken is pretty cool in that you can actually feel it lock up, and it does it smoothly. Lets say you're going through an intersection in 2nd, and you decide to nail it halfway through and pinch the steering wheel in too just for good measure. So as soon as the boost comes up of course the tail starts to kick out and since the Giken locks on input torque, it starts to lock up. You can feel your line tighten noticeably as it locks up (this probably takes like less than a half second, but it's noticeable.) And once it is locked, the car just goes forward. You can still steer it around and hang the tail out if you want, or you can tuck it in and go forward, depending on your steering inputs.

None of this was possible with the stock diff. You could still drift the car of course but it was uncontrollable. That controllable nature is what will make you fast on track not because you want to drift, but because you can control what the car does and drive it right on the edge with a good slip angle.

If you have the $$ I'd highly recommend the Giken over a torsen-style diff.

[DanielGonz]

Hit limp while on the dyno today on 2 of the 3 runs. We're thinking it's a fueling issue. Maybe it's the supply fuel pump (fuel pump that feeds the primary).

[jbass524]

Although I don't own an N54 any longer, it is near and dear to my heart and may own a track-specific car with one in the future.

I think it's time someone finds the information on exactly what to do to make the N54 reliable. Here are some issues that cause the car to throw codes, go into limp mode, or reduce power during sessions. It's all I can remember:

• Cooling system including oil and transmission - limp and more limp
• Fuel systems: pump, injectors - throw codes, cause limp
• Carbon build up - cuts power albeit slowly, over time
• Turbos - failures cause limp
• Intake - causes heat soak
• Water pump - capacity is too low which enhances high temps. It also fails for many within 50,000

Exactly what needs to be replaced and modified as if you were going to run an hour long race? I would like a power plant w/o meth as I think it might run out. The motor and cooling is all I would want.

[SneakyDeeky]

After reading all 41 pages of this thread (over last 2 nights), I'm surprised how little info there is about people running meth and its impact on oil and coolant temps. I'll be heading to my first track day sometime in the next month or so; I'll post an update once I have some results.

I'm a little scared though, after reading about all the heat related limp modes. I may pull the trigger on the Stett Stage 2 Oil Cooler with the 180F T-stat or the ER Dual Oil Coolers just to protect my investment in the track day / weekend / time off from work. Plus, I hope I'll keep getting better and need the cooling sooner than later. Thoughts on oil cooler mods prior to my first track event?

That said, awesome info contained in this thread! Because of you guys I now have distilled water and 3 bottles of Motul Mocool (DIY link) and Motul 600 ready to go into my car tomorrow.

Also, I'll be removing and cleaning my vanos solenoids as proactive maintenance. - DIY link

Not necessarily track mods, but I have some other fresh fluids to address tomorrow:
Royal Purple 5W-30 - 7 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil - 2 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01512 Synchromax High Performance Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 3 Quarts - DIY link
CHF 11S Power Steering Fluid - DIY link

E90Post is awesome!

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky

After reading all 41 pages of this thread (over last 2 nights), I'm surprised how little info there is about people running meth and its impact on oil and coolant temps. I'll be heading to my first track day sometime in the next month or so; I'll post an update once I have some results.

I'm a little scared though, after reading about all the heat related limp modes. I may pull the trigger on the Stett Stage 2 Oil Cooler with the 180F T-stat or the ER Dual Oil Coolers just to protect my investment in the track day / weekend / time off from work. Plus, I hope I'll keep getting better and need the cooling sooner than later. Thoughts on oil cooler mods prior to my first track event?

That said, awesome info contained in this thread! Because of you guys I now have distilled water and 3 bottles of Motul Mocool (DIY link) and Motul 600 ready to go into my car tomorrow.

Also, I'll be removing and cleaning my vanos solenoids as proactive maintenance. - DIY link

Not necessarily track mods, but I have some other fresh fluids to address tomorrow:
Royal Purple 5W-30 - 7 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil - 2 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01512 Synchromax High Performance Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 2 Quarts - DIY link
CHF 11S Power Steering Fluid - DIY link

E90Post is awesome!

I got the Stett Stg 2 oil cooler before my first track event because I knew the car needed it. Nothing wrong with that, you'll most likely hit unsafe oil temps if you don't have something like it.

I'd imagine meth and/or e85 would have significant cooling benefits on the racetrack. The problem is going to be ensuring your meth is working properly on the track (yet another thing that can not work properly out there, when there are already plenty) and sourcing E85 to bring to the track.

In theory though, logistics and complexity aside E85/meth would have significant benefits.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky

After reading all 41 pages of this thread (over last 2 nights), I'm surprised how little info there is about people running meth and its impact on oil and coolant temps. I'll be heading to my first track day sometime in the next month or so; I'll post an update once I have some results.

you need to ditch the JB4, and get a flash tune for track duty. The factory software is still active and will try its best to sabotage your fun. Meth is toxic, so it didn't get much attention on this thread. BrianMN used it though. Ask him about it.

[TurboBimmer]

Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky

After reading all 41 pages of this thread (over last 2 nights), I'm surprised how little info there is about people running meth and its impact on oil and coolant temps. I'll be heading to my first track day sometime in the next month or so; I'll post an update once I have some results.

I'm a little scared though, after reading about all the heat related limp modes. I may pull the trigger on the Stett Stage 2 Oil Cooler with the 180F T-stat or the ER Dual Oil Coolers just to protect my investment in the track day / weekend / time off from work. Plus, I hope I'll keep getting better and need the cooling sooner than later. Thoughts on oil cooler mods prior to my first track event?

That said, awesome info contained in this thread! Because of you guys I now have distilled water and 3 bottles of Motul Mocool (DIY link) and Motul 600 ready to go into my car tomorrow.

Also, I'll be removing and cleaning my vanos solenoids as proactive maintenance. - DIY link

Not necessarily track mods, but I have some other fresh fluids to address tomorrow:
Royal Purple 5W-30 - 7 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil - 2 Quarts - DIY link
Royal Purple 01512 Synchromax High Performance Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 2 Quarts - DIY link
CHF 11S Power Steering Fluid - DIY link

E90Post is awesome!

Hi,

as you have a 6MT you'll have far less heat induced problems. I've driven my car in summer heat on a tight course (= nightmare for 6AT coolant temps) where it would overheat within 2 or 3 laps, despite massive cooling upgrades. Same day I drove a friends 6MT for 25 minutes session without issues. He only had upgraded his stock OC with a Setrab core.

So in your place I would get the ER Sports upgrade, maybe even the dual competition package if you want to be safe in any condition.

Greets,

Christian

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Autobahn335i

Hi,

as you have a 6MT you'll have far less heat induced problems. I've driven my car in summer heat on a tight course (= nightmare for 6AT coolant temps) where it would overheat within 2 or 3 laps, despite massive cooling upgrades. Same day I drove a friends 6MT for 25 minutes session without issues. He only had upgraded his stock OC with a Setrab core.

So in your place I would get the ER Sports upgrade, maybe even the dual competition package if you want to be safe in any condition.

Greets,

Christian

Christian, at 102K miles I am just now replacing the radiator on my 6AT. I don't know if you've held our radiator, but it is probably the smallest one I have personally ever seen. Looks like it came out of a toy car. Despite this, your common speculation about the correlated heat issues with a 6AT is misguided. Yes the 6AT's radiator has the double duty of serving the transmission, BUT you forgot to mention that even the 1M, and 335IS, with their extra radiator, and manual transmissions, still over heat at the track. This is a twin turbo vehicle we are talking about here. Lap after lap, you will keep getting slower. I spend time hosing down my radiator between sessions, and make it through a full track day without issues. Arrogant 6mt owners, just start out among the leading cars, and end up at the bottom half, time after time.

[TurboBimmer]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Christian, at 102K miles I am just now replacing the radiator on my 6AT. I don't know if you've held our radiator, but it is probably the smallest one I have personally ever seen. Looks like it came out of a toy car. Despite this, your common speculation about the correlated heat issues with a 6AT is misguided. Yes the 6AT's radiator has the double duty of serving the transmission, BUT you forgot to mention that even the 1M, and 335IS, with their extra radiator, and manual transmissions, still over heat at the track. This is a twin turbo vehicle we are talking about here. Lap after lap, you will keep getting slower. I spend time hosing down my radiator between sessions, and make it through a full track day without issues. Arrogant 6mt owners, just start out among the leading cars, and end up at the bottom half, time after time.

IMO 6MT cars are doing fine in 90% of the cases with an upgraded oilcooler (which neither the 1M nor 335is have from the factory).

Us AT guys need a separate transmission cooler beyond the cooling upgrades currently available. Which is what I will get custom made before the track season starts.

[SneakyDeeky]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

I got the Stett Stg 2 oil cooler before my first track event because I knew the car needed it. Nothing wrong with that, you'll most likely hit unsafe oil temps if you don't have something like it.

Makes sense. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the ER Competition Dual Oil Coolers (link to more pics).

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

I'd imagine meth and/or e85 would have significant cooling benefits on the racetrack. The problem is going to be ensuring your meth is working properly on the track (yet another thing that can not work properly out there, when there are already plenty) and sourcing E85 to bring to the track.

In theory though, logistics and complexity aside E85/meth would have significant benefits.

The JB4 controls my meth flow and has a built in failsafe. I plan on topping off the meth in between each session. Another perk of the JB4 is that it let's me hijack the fuel or oil gauges to monitor meth flow and coolant temps. I plan on keeping the oil gauge to monitor oil temps and alternating the fuel gauge between meth flow and coolant temps. I'll let you know how things hold up.

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

you need to ditch the JB4, and get a flash tune for track duty. The factory software is still active and will try its best to sabotage your fun. Meth is toxic, so it didn't get much attention on this thread. BrianMN used it though. Ask him about it.

Can you provide some examples of how the OEM software interferes? I'm assuming you're talking about traction control issues?
I've loved the JB4 so far and it has a lot of perks like reading codes, downpipe fix, limiting boost in 1st and 2nd gears, plus setting a max boost. I keep my max boost set at 14.5 psi.

Originally Posted by Autobahn335i

Hi,
as you have a 6MT you'll have far less heat induced problems. I've driven my car in summer heat on a tight course (= nightmare for 6AT coolant temps) where it would overheat within 2 or 3 laps, despite massive cooling upgrades. Same day I drove a friends 6MT for 25 minutes session without issues. He only had upgraded his stock OC with a Setrab core.

So in your place I would get the ER Sports upgrade, maybe even the dual competition package if you want to be safe in any condition.

Greets,
Christian

I took your advice!
And thanks for the welcome, I'm really excited about going to the track for the first time in my own car. I did the Exotics Racing thing in Vegas a few months ago and that's what got me hooked. Hopefully, I won't be posting on this thread anymore.

[abhishriv]

Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky

Makes sense. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the ER Competition Dual Oil Coolers (link to more pics).







The JB4 controls my meth flow and has a built in failsafe. I plan on topping off the meth in between each session. Another perk of the JB4 is that it let's me hijack the fuel or oil gauges to monitor meth flow and coolant temps. I plan on keeping the oil gauge to monitor oil temps and alternating the fuel gauge between meth flow and coolant temps. I'll let you know how things hold up.


Can you provide some examples of how the OEM software interferes? I'm assuming you're talking about traction control issues?
I've loved the JB4 so far and it has a lot of perks like reading codes, downpipe fix, limiting boost in 1st and 2nd gears, plus setting a max boost. I keep my max boost set at 14.5 psi.


I took your advice!
And thanks for the welcome, I'm really excited about going to the track for the first time in my own car. I did the Exotics Racing thing in Vegas a few months ago and that's what got me hooked. Hopefully, I won't be posting on this thread anymore.

do you have pics of how it looks from the fender? did you have to cut out holes in the liner to allow air to flow out?

[SneakyDeeky]

Originally Posted by abhishriv

do you have pics of how it looks from the fender? did you have to cut out holes in the liner to allow air to flow out?

No pics yet, but I'll take some. Liners were cut to allow air flow. Issue is the tires rub slightly now against the newly trimmed edge of the liner while turning sharply in reverse. I need to trim a little more. I'll take pics when I get around to this.

[millseyent]

Guys,

First time posting on here so i couldn't start a new topic so id thought id post my problem in here as its the thread with the most relevance.

Anywho, I've come across a leaking radiator on my 06 335i E92 , its been causing my engine to overheat big time, BMW have quoted me £700 for the privilege of supplying and fitting one; so I've decided to go down the low cost route of buying an aftermarket rad and getting a independent specialist to change it over.

The question I'm about to ask is going to sound incredibly dumb but here it goes, my car is has the auto box with the flappy paddles for the manual option, the company I'm getting the rad from (NRF) has two types of radiators, one for a manual/semi auto and one for an automatic (see below)

Manual/Semi Auto
http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/nrf/534735br.html

Automatic:
http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/nrf/534742pp.html

the only noticeable difference is the quick connector in the bottom right hand corner.

So i supposed the question is, which one do i get???

Helpppp!!!!

[TurboBimmer]

You need the one for full auto. The lower three rows of the core are used as heat exchanger for the transmission. That's what the bottom connectors are for: to connect it to the tranny.

[millseyent]

Cheers mate, appreciate it.

[millseyent]

Okay guys, so I've changed my radiator and my engine is still overheating, the mechanic reckons my head gasket is cooked but I'm not convinced.

Ive just pulled it on my drive and left it idling where the coolant temp reached 104 deg C, i lifted the bonnet and seen that fan was not even on, it didn't start spinning until the temp was at 107 deg, and even then it only comes on for a few seconds.

Is this normal???

[crypticc]

Originally Posted by millseyent

Okay guys, so I've changed my radiator and my engine is still overheating, the mechanic reckons my head gasket is cooked but I'm not convinced.

Ive just pulled it on my drive and left it idling where the coolant temp reached 104 deg C, i lifted the bonnet and seen that fan was not even on, it didn't start spinning until the temp was at 107 deg, and even then it only comes on for a few seconds.

Is this normal???

Wouldn't head gasket being fried cause a lot of issues. In fact loads except the fan not running? Do you trust your mechanic as head gasket is cheap on parts but expensive on labour.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_are_t...wn_head_gasket

[millseyent]

Originally Posted by crypticc

Wouldn't head gasket being fried cause a lot of issues. In fact loads except the fan not running? Do you trust your mechanic as head gasket is cheap on parts but expensive on labour.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_are_t...wn_head_gasket

In all honesty i don't trust him (as its the first time I've used him), I'm planning to get a second opinion tomorrow.

What are the obvious symptoms for a failed HG??(Ignore this I've just checked your link) Ive got some milky residue in the oil filler cap but nothing overly major (due to condensation maybe?).

Ive took it to BMW (twice), they said the pump and the sensor is fine and its down to the leaking rad, which i changed but i'm still getting the same problem, what else could it be?

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by millseyent

Okay guys, so I've changed my radiator and my engine is still overheating, the mechanic reckons my head gasket is cooked but I'm not convinced.

Ive just pulled it on my drive and left it idling where the coolant temp reached 104 deg C, i lifted the bonnet and seen that fan was not even on, it didn't start spinning until the temp was at 107 deg, and even then it only comes on for a few seconds.

Is this normal???

Coolant temp isn't over heating at 104, or 107C. In fact depending on how you are driving, or the ambient temps, it can be quite normal. Get a scanner, and check for trouble codes, if none are present, I wouldn't worry. If you are above 75K miles on the odometer, change your water pump, and thermostat.