[Tambohamilton]

you are not shy with the grinder, Al!

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

How come you didn't do the cowl delete for an easy 10+ lb? And dam ya $550 why not go with the Dinan?

I considered that early on in my build but I didn’t like the idea of opening up that area of the car to the elements. I live in Florida and the car is parked outside often, which means it gets deluged with thunderstorms 3-4 times a week for at least 6 months per year. So I don’t want water flooding into the blower motor area.

Also there were a few guys who reported that their AC didn’t cool as well after that delete because the AC sucked hot engine air from the cowl area. The cowl seals the engine bay from the HVAC intakes. So again, living in Florida having a hot AC is a no go

The car is first a street car and second a track car, so I’m trying to keep it as street/daily friendly as possible. If it becomes more a track car then I would do the cowl delete at that point.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

you are not shy with the grinder, Al!

For sure! Grinder is one of my most used tools

I did paint the grinded areas of course

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Right, but those weren’t where I had the problem. The fasteners at the ends connecting to the solid aluminum V near the firewall is what hits the non M plastic cowling.

Ok! i understood, but a bit later

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I considered that early on in my build but I didn’t like the idea of opening up that area of the car to the elements. I live in Florida and the car is parked outside often, which means it gets deluged with thunderstorms 3-4 times a week for at least 6 months per year. So I don’t want water flooding into the blower motor area.

Also there were a few guys who reported that their AC didn’t cool as well after that delete because the AC sucked hot engine air from the cowl area. The cowl seals the engine bay from the HVAC intakes. So again, living in Florida having a hot AC is a no go

The car is first a street car and second a track car, so I’m trying to keep it as street/daily friendly as possible. If it becomes more a track car then I would do the cowl delete at that point.

The M3 cowl seems to be the next thing on your mod list. With easiest accessibility to the top of the engine ( plugs, coils...) and maybe lighter too.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I considered that early on in my build but I didn’t like the idea of opening up that area of the car to the elements. I live in Florida and the car is parked outside often, which means it gets deluged with thunderstorms 3-4 times a week for at least 6 months per year. So I don’t want water flooding into the blower motor area.

Also there were a few guys who reported that their AC didn’t cool as well after that delete because the AC sucked hot engine air from the cowl area. The cowl seals the engine bay from the HVAC intakes. So again, living in Florida having a hot AC is a no go

The car is first a street car and second a track car, so I’m trying to keep it as street/daily friendly as possible. If it becomes more a track car then I would do the cowl delete at that point.

You definitely want to keep the cowl sealed. It's a high pressure area and the engine bay may pressurize without the seal, reducing the effectiveness of the radiator.

Interesting that you ran into issues with the brace. Mine bolted on without any drama, but my non-M cabin filter cowl was also a very tight fit since I didn't cut the studs. I may eventually replace the two studs with lower profile M8x20 bolts.

An M3 cowl would fit better, but the M3 cowl doesn't completely seal against the non-M hood as the ridges on the underside have a different layout. Probably not a big deal though.

[E91Swagger]

@Biginboca, did the M3 strut brace make a difference in driving?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by E91Swagger

@Biginboca, did the M3 strut brace make a difference in driving?

Well so far I’m not noticing any difference from the last set up I had which was stock e92 strut braces and the added ultra racing strut brace. In all fairness I haven’t tracked the car yet since the brace swap but have done some street driving.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Well so far I’m not noticing any difference from the last set up I had which was stock e92 strut braces and the added ultra racing strut brace. In all fairness I haven’t tracked the car yet since the brace swap but have done some street driving.

I noticed a significant increase in steering weight when I fitted my M3 brace. But I only had the MSport steel braces before that, not a between-tower cross brace like you...

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

I noticed a significant increase in steering weight when I fitted my M3 brace. But I only had the MSport steel braces before that, not a between-tower cross brace like you...

I also have the e93 bracing running in front of the engine (from the fenders to the bottom center of the subframe). So maybe some of this bracing is overlapping in function a bit too. I wouldn’t mind if there was a way to run a tower to tower brace with the M3 set up, but I’m not going to pursue any more chassis bracing. I’m happy with how rigid the car feels.

[tylerhart_21]

Would the rear chassis brace from the m3 make a difference or not really? Since the m3 strut tower brace makes a difference in my opinion.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Well so far I’m not noticing any difference from the last set up I had which was stock e92 strut braces and the added ultra racing strut brace. In all fairness I haven’t tracked the car yet since the brace swap but have done some street driving.

Interesting. Shows how much of a difference all of the other suspension changes makes I guess

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by tylerhart_21

Would the rear chassis brace from the m3 make a difference or not really? Since the m3 strut tower brace makes a difference in my opinion.

It might be marginal on an E92 since it already came with some rear bracing. Significant difference on an E90 which has no rear bracing

[CweLe]

Yes. I totally agree.

[BSM n54iS]

Is this new??

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...t-tower-brace/

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Is this new??

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...t-tower-brace/

Maybe so, I don’t remember ever seeing that before. I think I would opt for the UUC one I had previously for around $200 vs doing that Dinan for $600. They are doing the same exact thing as far as I can tell.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Maybe so, I don’t remember ever seeing that before. I think I would opt for the UUC one I had previously for around $200 vs doing that Dinan for $600. They are doing the same exact thing as far as I can tell.

The price is ridiculous ofc (being said I literally just bought the Dinan ssk for $200 cuz that's pretty good actually haha) wondering why in the world they can't make it a tri-cross and combine this with their m3 style, just need to weld on the other attachment maybe to this main member joint

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

The price is ridiculous ofc (being said I literally just bought the Dinan ssk for $200 cuz that's pretty good actually haha) wondering why in the world they can't make it a tri-cross and combine this with their m3 style, just need to weld on the other attachment maybe to this main member joint

Sorry I meant ultra racing, not UUC

ULTRA RACING 2-Point Front Strut Tower Bar Brace BMW E90 325 E92 3.5TT TW2-1026 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6P7GIS...E3CNA9QH5R2CM0

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Sorry I meant ultra racing, not UUC

ULTRA RACING 2-Point Front Strut Tower Bar Brace BMW E90 325 E92 3.5TT TW2-1026 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6P7GIS...E3CNA9QH5R2CM0

Gotcha.

Off topic did you ever install that Turner 70a shifter arm bushing? Been doing some research Did you change up anything else, Rogue delrin carrier bushings?

Thinking of making a shifter thread, I think we can get our cars to feel 70-80% of how Porsches feel from what I've read. That progressive 'helper' spring is the biggest downfall for sure, I've had it removed for years upon years now, but I saw today adding back in the tiny little linear spring is the best. Then after that maybe a UCP and all the shifter bushings, I can't remember what all you have done?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Gotcha.

Off topic did you ever install that Turner 70a shifter arm bushing? Been doing some research Did you change up anything else, Rogue delrin carrier bushings?

Thinking of making a shifter thread, I think we can get our cars to feel 70-80% of how Porsches feel from what I've read. That progressive 'helper' spring is the biggest downfall for sure, I've had it removed for years upon years now, but I saw today adding back in the tiny little linear spring is the best. Then after that maybe a UCP and all the shifter bushings, I can't remember what all you have done?

Below is a link to where I’m at now and I don’t think it can get any better for our transmission. My shifter has less slop than a P Car and similar throw, but takes more pressure to enter each gate. It kind of fights you going into the gates which is annoying. The Porsches I’ve driven (GT4, Boxster Spyder, and 997S) all were smooth and easy to engage.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=15

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Below is a link to where I’m at now and I don’t think it can get any better for our transmission. My shifter has less slop than a P Car and similar throw, but takes more pressure to enter each gate. It kind of fights you going into the gates which is annoying. The Porsches I’ve driven (GT4, Boxster Spyder, and 997S) all were smooth and easy to engage.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=15

Very nice! I was worried how much 'clicking' sound was made with the Rogue delrin bushings but it really is minimal. Did you find the UUC DSSR to be necessary? I haven't read up on that or seen anyone recommend or say they wanted it tbh, I know I saw vehicular diy did it so I'll go back and watch, wasn't planning on purchasing a new selector rod or anything metal really hmm

Ya I agree I don't think it could really get much better than what you have, which is really about the exact same route as I'm going. The clutch pedal though is the only other thing to change imo. Do you think a heavier knob would help take that entry pressure down? The Function First shift knob is something else I've been looking at

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Very nice! I was worried how much 'clicking' sound was made with the Rogue delrin bushings but it really is minimal. Did you find the UUC DSSR to be necessary? I haven't read up on that or seen anyone recommend or say they wanted it tbh, I know I saw vehicular diy did it so I'll go back and watch, wasn't planning on purchasing a new selector rod or anything metal really hmm

Ya I agree I don't think it could really get much better than what you have, which is really about the exact same route as I'm going. The clutch pedal though is the only other thing to change imo. Do you think a heavier knob would help take that entry pressure down? The Function First shift knob is something else I've been looking at

The UUC DSSR helped take some play out, but it’s a bitch to install it. I had to file down the bottom of the shifter where the UUC DSR attaches and file down the fitting on the transmission the UUC DSR attaches to because the gap it has machined is too small to accommodate those without modifications. There’s another company AKG making a nice dssr that’s aluminum which I wished I had gotten instead but it’s on perpetual back order. The UUC DSSR is stainless and it’s actually pretty heavy which I don’t like lol.

https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...2-e93-325-328/