[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

None, except when you try and lie about its performance, and tell people older than you to "have faith".

What possible motivation would I have to lie about its performance?

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

What possible motivation would I have to lie about its performance?

Trolling for one.

[DallasBoosted]

Only on the 335i forums do you get accused of trolling if you say the car actually performed well...

[bplewis24]

After reading this back-n-forth the past few days, I have to say I'm with DallasBoosted on this one. He is being told to "loose [sic] the attitude," when he hasn't had one and is being called a liar and a troll and told to "read the manual."

I don't see why that's necessary when he has been detailed about his limp modes and what has helped him fix them. All of that is anecdotal and is perfectly reasonable to post in order to refute the position that tracking the 335i is impossible. Could he be wrong? Sure, but that wouldn't make him a liar nor a troll. If the goal of this thread is to figure out what causes limp modes in an effort to help correct them (like the OP states), then his information should be welcomed.

[TurboBimmer]

Whilst folks with all-out track cars will probably laugh at our efforts, I think we've come a long way and alot has been achieved to make the 335i a trackworthy car. With the right tweaks it's a very competent tool and will, most importantly, put a big smile on the drivers face!

[daveishi]

Originally Posted by bplewis24

After reading this back-n-forth the past few days, I have to say I'm with DallasBoosted on this one. He is being told to "loose [sic] the attitude," when he hasn't had one and is being called a liar and a troll and told to "read the manual."

I don't see why that's necessary when he has been detailed about his limp modes and what has helped him fix them. All of that is anecdotal and is perfectly reasonable to post in order to refute the position that tracking the 335i is impossible. Could he be wrong? Sure, but that wouldn't make him a liar nor a troll. If the goal of this thread is to figure out what causes limp modes in an effort to help correct them (like the OP states), then his information should be welcomed.

+1

and I'll add that I've been tracking my 335is for ~the past year with the stock radiators/oil cooler without any limp modes, including one track day at 110* ambient temp at las vegas speedway.

[Kou]

Hey guys, I encountered the dsc/dtc limp mode while driving on the track. Found out it was going into limp mode only when the front wheels are spinning or senses no traction (335i, not 335xi). It doesn't go into limp mode when i do four wheel drift or rear wheel drift.

[akotten]

Just thought I'd add some input from my track experience this weekend. Stock tune, sticky tires, and race pads, and other mods in sig (minus tune)....no limp modes at all. Ambient temps were relatively low (50s and 60s...some low 70s) but oil temps were still around 270. Still no issues.

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

Just thought I'd add some input from my track experience this weekend. Stock tune, sticky tires, and race pads, and other mods in sig (minus tune)....no limp modes at all. Ambient temps were relatively low (50s and 60s...some low 70s) but oil temps were still around 270. Still no issues.

That's good! I have the stett stage 2 oil cooler and in those temps even with an aggressive tune at 18psi I wasn't hitting over 260f oil temp. At 90 degrees ambient, I was hitting 280 though. Need more air on the oil cooler. I'm doing a fog light delete and better ductwork to the oil cooler and brake ducts too. Will update with pics when I have some.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

That's good! I have the stett stage 2 oil cooler and in those temps even with an aggressive tune at 18psi I wasn't hitting over 260f oil temp. At 90 degrees ambient, I was hitting 280 though. Need more air on the oil cooler. I'm doing a fog light delete and better ductwork to the oil cooler and brake ducts too. Will update with pics when I have some.

Nice, I'd be curious to see what temp drop you'll see with the airflow changes. Are you DIY'ing the brake ducts or buying a kit?

Also, in case it helps, I saw a decent water temp drop last year when I replaced my leaking OEM radiator. There was so much dirt baked into the vanes that was severely impacting cooling capacity, and that's with occasional water hose cleaning.

[raceyBMW]

I should probably update on something I tried a couple weeks ago. Recent track days before this one have been a futile attempt to get a couple good sessions in before I go limp mode due to Coolant temps (335i, AT).

This last week I tried 100% water + water wetter instead of coolant, and that seemed to help a ton with the coolant temps. Granted I was still running in the 245°F range, but only got a coolant warning once, and never went into full limp mode. Was a 90+°F day too, so was pleased with the performance. For info, I have FBO (no meth) with Cobb AP. I put Cobb in Stage 1 Drive just to lower boost to put less heat into the system.

My oil temps run into the 290°F range, but I never limp due to those.

I also am curious on the Fog light delete, I bet it will help a couple degrees on your oil temps at the track.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by raceyBMW

I should probably update on something I tried a couple weeks ago. Recent track days before this one have been a futile attempt to get a couple good sessions in before I go limp mode due to Coolant temps (335i, AT).

This last week I tried 100% water + water wetter instead of coolant, and that seemed to help a ton with the coolant temps. Granted I was still running in the 245°F range, but only got a coolant warning once, and never went into full limp mode. Was a 90+°F day too, so was pleased with the performance. For info, I have FBO (no meth) with Cobb AP. I put Cobb in Stage 1 Drive just to lower boost to put less heat into the system.

My oil temps run into the 290°F range, but I never limp due to those.

I also am curious on the Fog light delete, I bet it will help a couple degrees on your oil temps at the track.

1. Change your radiator. By 90K miles, mine was leaking, and clogged, despite spraying water at it.
2. Try and hose down your radiator (actually your condenser, but the radiator will get hit right behind it), before each session. That will radically lower your water, and even oil temps b4 you go out for a session. My water gets down to 59F to start the session. By the time I'm ending the session, I'm at 107F. This was suggested by The Hack, and it has eliminated the issues for me. I'm running Cobbs 100 Octane race map btw.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

That's good! I have the stett stage 2 oil cooler and in those temps even with an aggressive tune at 18psi I wasn't hitting over 260f oil temp. At 90 degrees ambient, I was hitting 280 though. Need more air on the oil cooler. I'm doing a fog light delete and better ductwork to the oil cooler and brake ducts too. Will update with pics when I have some.

Did you ever get 275's square to fit? Also...what camber plates do you have?

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

Did you ever get 275's square to fit? Also...what camber plates do you have?

Yes I got the 275's to fit, I just haven't worn out my 255's yet, so I still have those. Next set will be 275's square. I have the GC camber plates.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

Yes I got the 275's to fit, I just haven't worn out my 255's yet, so I still have those. Next set will be 275's square. I have the GC camber plates.

What wheel width and offset/spacers? This could be fun! I just ordered a set of ARC-8's in 17x9 ET30 and I already have camber plates...

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

What wheel width and offset/spacers? This could be fun! I just ordered a set of ARC-8's in 17x9 ET30 and I already have camber plates...

17x9.5 ET35 Arc-8's with 5mm spacers. I'm also at 3.3 degrees negative camber now, so thats a consideration.

Vorshlag is building me a set of brake ducts, the kits aren't necessary.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

17x9.5 ET35 Arc-8's with 5mm spacers. I'm also at 3.3 degrees negative camber now, so thats a consideration.

Vorshlag is building me a set of brake ducts, the kits aren't necessary.

How did you achieve 3.3 degrees? I think my plates get me to around 3 degrees or so, but I've never accurately measured.

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

How did you achieve 3.3 degrees? I think my plates get me to around 3 degrees or so, but I've never accurately measured.

Nothing in particular, put on the GC plates, loosened the bolts at the alignment shop, tapped it inwards with a rubber mallet.. Could probably go to 3.6-3.8 before the plate hits the inside of the strut tower.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

Nothing in particular, put on the GC plates, loosened the bolts at the alignment shop, tapped it inwards with a rubber mallet.. Could probably go to 3.6-3.8 before the plate hits the inside of the strut tower.

Oh...well then. LOL What 275 tire....R-comp? Hoosier A6?

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

Oh...well then. LOL What 275 tire....R-comp? Hoosier A6?

Can verify my NT01's fit. Hoosiers run a little wider than NT01's, can't guarantee those.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

Can verify my NT01's fit. Hoosiers run a little wider than NT01's, can't guarantee those.

10.91" for the NT01 vs 11" for the A6. It would be close! Weird that they only make the A6 in a 275/35R17 and not a 40. 255/45R17 and 245/40/R17 are available.

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by akotten

10.91" for the NT01 vs 11" for the A6. It would be close! Weird that they only make the A6 in a 275/35R17 and not a 40. 255/45R17 and 245/40/R17 are available.

I wouldn't worry about A6's either way, they are one-day tires at a racetrack.