[Bimmer335i07]

Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain

He can. I did it myself in his car..it will just throw the traction light on and cut the power for a section.

And 295 is pretty smooth. We werent blasting over the concrete expansions in the bridges and stuff..what idiot would do that lol.

Hey Scott, your car really moved on 95 though...and thanks for rear fogging that asshat in the TSX that kept tailgating me.

I cant wait to get mine to test auto vs 6mt..

lol! No problem! That guy was a real dickwad! I'm so... glad I have the rear fogs to annoy idiots on the road like that guy.

Too bad we couldn't find anybody to play with us. lol! Can't wait til you get the Attache too, then we can really look for some fun on the road.

***Warning, we are professional drivers, please don't race on the road!***

[karliejai]

Originally Posted by Bimmer335i07

lol! No problem! That guy was a real dickwad! I'm so... glad I have the rear fogs to annoy idiots on the road like that guy.

Too bad we couldn't find anybody to play with us. lol! Can't wait til you get the Attache too, then we can really look for some fun on the road.

***Warning, we are professional drivers, please don't race on the road!***

wtf!!! what did i miss!!!

[slubu]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Thats an excellent and valid question. I am usually a half throttle driver. When in traffic(which is most of the time) theres no need to put the pedal down to the floor. Before the extra harness install that incorporates the TPS, I would get nearly full boost when I put my foot down to half throttle. This was not helping gas nor was it helping drivability. Why would I want the same full boost at half throttle and full throttle? Thats a waste of pedal travel.

Now, I like the fact that I can actually use the pedal to control power. The car truly acts like an NA motored vehicle. I can actually feel the part of the pedal travel where I start getting into modified boost. If Im on a road that I dont want that or in traffic, I can cut back on my foot pressure. When I want to shoot ahead of someone or just gun it from a light, I know that putting the pedal to the floor is going to give me all the boost I want.

By being able to control the power via throttle response, Im able to drive smoother, control my mpg better and keep my passengers from feeling like they are on an amusement ride everytime I push the pedal down(unless they ask for it of course).

Hope I answered your question adequately, if not do not hesitate to ask again.

If this is a dumb question please chalk it up to my lack of knowledge for tuning. But how does throttle response correlate to RPMs and torque? For example, if I am 2500 RPMs, will I produce the same torque and/or boost despite where I am in the throttle? Or will I produce more power/torque/boost in full throttle at 2500rpms than partial throttle at 2500rpms.

It may even be as simple as at full throttle you will already be past 2500 RPMs, what do I know

[BoostedBMW]

Originally Posted by slubu

If this is a dumb question please chalk it up to my lack of knowledge for tuning. But how does throttle response correlate to RPMs and torque? For example, if I am 2500 RPMs, will I produce the same torque and/or boost despite where I am in the throttle? Or will I produce more power/torque/boost in full throttle at 2500rpms than partial throttle at 2500rpms.

It may even be as simple as at full throttle you will already be past 2500 RPMs, what do I know

I don't have the Helix tune so I can't comment on the partial throttle from that standpoint, but on any car you will certainly be putting down more power at a certain RPM when you are WOT, then when you are at partial throttle. An easy way to look at it would be that at 10% throttle and 2500 RPM you would still be in vac, but at 75 or 100% throttle you would be in boost where you would certainly putting down more power. So, yes, throttle position is directly related to power output at whatever RPM.

Usually when people talk about throttle response they are referring to how responsive the tune is when you jump onto the throttle quickly and intially hit the gas. The 335 blows IMO when it comes to throttle response if you are use to any kind of decent NA car.

[slubu]

Originally Posted by BoostedBMW

I don't have the Helix tune so I can't comment on the partial throttle from that standpoint, but on any car you will certainly be putting down more power at a certain RPM when you are WOT, then when you are at partial throttle. An easy way to look at it would be that at 10% throttle and 2500 RPM you would still be in vac, but at 75 or 100% throttle you would be in boost where you would certainly putting down more power. So, yes, throttle position is directly related to power output at whatever RPM.

Usually when people talk about throttle response they are referring to how responsive the tune is when you jump onto the throttle quickly and intially hit the gas. The 335 blows IMO when it comes to throttle response if you are use to any kind of decent NA car.

I assume you mean the stock 335 blows. My NA 330 is very responsive at initial throttle response. I like that.

Helix folks, since you intercepted the TPS to delay boost until full depression of the throttle, can we as and end user just leave out that wire to have our preference of partial throttle response? Apologies for wanting to impose changes to such a finely refined tune, but to have to go to full throttle before the tune is noticeable does not appeal to me. That is my only reservation on this tune, as I perceive it to be a form of turbo lag if I have to depress fully. Maybe I'm not getting it and would be happy to learn otherwise.

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by slubu

If this is a dumb question please chalk it up to my lack of knowledge for tuning. But how does throttle response correlate to RPMs and torque? For example, if I am 2500 RPMs, will I produce the same torque and/or boost despite where I am in the throttle? Or will I produce more power/torque/boost in full throttle at 2500rpms than partial throttle at 2500rpms.

It may even be as simple as at full throttle you will already be past 2500 RPMs, what do I know

Not a dumb question and Ill try to answer it as best as possible.

Throttle response is basically how quickly the engine reacts to your movement on the pedal. Unfortunately with the application of "throttle-by-wire" instead of the older actual cable controlled throttle, there is an electrical delay in motion.

Throttle response has nothing to do with RPM's and Torque/HP. In terms of being at 2500rpms and being half throttle and full throttle, thats a difference.
You can be at full throttle "WOT" from idle all the way to redline. Thats basically having the pedal to the floor. This will be producing the most amount of power possible throughout the rev range because the parameters in the ECU are told to go at 100%. However, at half throttle, the ECU should know that you arent trying to go 100% and adapt air and fuel flow to compensate for however fast you actually want to go around 50%.

Originally Posted by slubu

Helix folks, since you intercepted the TPS to delay boost until full depression of the throttle, can we as and end user just leave out that wire to have our preference of partial throttle response? Apologies for wanting to impose changes to such a finely refined tune, but to have to go to full throttle before the tune is noticeable does not appeal to me.

You dont have to go full throttle to notice the tune, just a bit past half throttle. You want the TPS intercepted because it not only works with the final tune, but you will get much better gas mileage. The situation is that before without the TPS intercepted, at half throttle you would get full boost making the pedal like a light switch. It was either on or it was off, hard to modulate. Having the TPS intercepted makes it much more manageable.

[Bimmer335i07]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Not a dumb question and Ill try to answer it as best as possible.

Throttle response is basically how quickly the engine reacts to your movement on the pedal. Unfortunately with the application of "throttle-by-wire" instead of the older actual cable controlled throttle, there is an electrical delay in motion.

Throttle response has nothing to do with RPM's and Torque/HP. In terms of being at 2500rpms and being half throttle and full throttle, thats a difference.
You can be at full throttle "WOT" from idle all the way to redline. Thats basically having the pedal to the floor. This will be producing the most amount of power possible throughout the rev range because the parameters in the ECU are told to go at 100%. However, at half throttle, the ECU should know that you arent trying to go 100% and adapt air and fuel flow to compensate for however fast you actually want to go around 50%.



You dont have to go full throttle to notice the tune, just a bit past half throttle. You want the TPS intercepted because it not only works with the final tune, but you will get much better gas mileage. The situation is that before without the TPS intercepted, at half throttle you would get full boost making the pedal like a light switch. It was either on or it was off, hard to modulate. Having the TPS intercepted makes it much more manageable.

+1

whatever the dude above said.



just kidding Alex! once again, great writeup and explanation.

[vase330]

I am confused too. So for the first half it is totally stock and the next half is tuned? Like two different cars? I think its better it comes in stealth from around 25% on increasing smoothly but rapidly towards 100% by 50% pedal travel. Really fast, but smooth if that makes any sense. I hated the eclipse feel that was the light switch you are talking of.

[judec]

Hmmm, I only guess here cuz I have no attache, but I suppose all of U (us) have to try it before making any judgements or requests.

[Tobias1980]

Originally Posted by judec

Hmmm, I only guess here cuz I have no attache, but I suppose all of U (us) have to try it before making any judgements or requests.

I agree, right know we can only put our trust to the beta testers!

They all seem straight forward and Helix is requesting feedback so if the setup was not good I believe we all would know by now.

[Eazyrock]

The car feels like a v8. You drive around at low rpm the car will be extremely smooth. Floor it and you'll get immediate power but still silky smooth. I took my brother for a ride just to give him an idea of how fast the car was. The first words out of his mouth (after the holy sh!t) was he couldn't believe how smooth the car was. My mpg has improved slightly since the update as well.

[Bimmer335i07]

Let me see if I can explain this.

While I had the SSTT and JB2RH in my car, it wasn't really smooth. When I would press on the gas lightly sometimes with both tunes, there would always be a little pause and the car would jerk because of the uncontrolled throttle response? I'm not sure how I can explain it, except everytime that I wanted to accelerate slowly, it will be like stock and then you will feel that added torque/hp and it would jerk the car, not a good feeling if you ask me. It always made me want to press on the gas a little harder, just to avoid that feeling. Not sure if you guys with the SSTT and JB2RH have experienced it. It definitely did not feel like a NA car, even though it is not. But with the Attache, no matter how I accelerate, the car is just so... smooth. It really does feel like a NA V8 and I am not saying this because I have the Attache. I'm saying this because that's how it feels when I drive my car. No jerkiness or anything like that, just smooth acceleration with controlled power. Honestly, I don't know why I'm raving about this tune because I rather you guys not buy it and stick with the other tunes. I like being special. lol!

All joking aside, you guys will NOT be disappointed with the Helix Attache.

Big thanks to TturboBulletT (Mark) and Spartan8 (Anthony) for making the Attache and to Helix for all their support.

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by vase330

I am confused too. So for the first half it is totally stock and the next half is tuned? Like two different cars? I think its better it comes in stealth from around 25% on increasing smoothly but rapidly towards 100% by 50% pedal travel. Really fast, but smooth if that makes any sense. I hated the eclipse feel that was the light switch you are talking of.

I can understand where people are getting confused and I think repetitive talking about it is only making it worse.

Basically if you put the pedal down halfway, you are driving off of boost. Right when you hit a magical point in the pedal travel, the ECU responds by saying "Ohh I see you put the pedal down further than normal, you want me to kick the turbos in and create boost huh?". Its at this point when boost starts to come in that the tune also starts to work. Theres no reason for the tune to modify any parameters when you are not making boost. This is why several other units have shown lesser mpg when you are cruising on the highway. Unless there is boost being made, the ECU is delivering OEM characteristics.

Its still one car and like Eric mentioned, it feels like a very powerful v8. Theres still a little kick when the turbos come in but its a progressive boost build. You dont get 14lbs of boost right when you put your foot down at 2500rpm. You might get 10 and then around 3500 get up to 11 then around 4500 12 and then 5200 13 and then 6000 14lbs.

Its so smooth in fact that it feels like an NA motor. I think thats the point myself and the others have been trying to make.

[judec]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

I can understand where people are getting confused and I think repetitive talking about it is only making it worse.

Basically if you put the pedal down halfway, you are driving off of boost. Right when you hit a magical point in the pedal travel, the ECU responds by saying "Ohh I see you put the pedal down further than normal, you want me to kick the turbos in and create boost huh?". Its at this point when boost starts to come in that the tune also starts to work. Theres no reason for the tune to modify any parameters when you are not making boost. This is why several other units have shown lesser mpg when you are cruising on the highway. Unless there is boost being made, the ECU is delivering OEM characteristics.

Its still one car and like Eric mentioned, it feels like a very powerful v8. Theres still a little kick when the turbos come in but its a progressive boost build. You dont get 14lbs of boost right when you put your foot down at 2500rpm. You might get 10 and then around 3500 get up to 11 then around 4500 12 and then 5200 13 and then 6000 14lbs.

Its so smooth in fact that it feels like an NA motor. I think thats the point myself and the others have been trying to make.

yeah, U stupid digital thing, I DO!!!

[Bimmer335i07]

Originally Posted by judec

"Ohh I see you put the pedal down further than normal, you want me to kick the turbos in and create boost huh?"


yeah, U stupid digital thing, I DO!!!

[TheJackal]

Originally Posted by Bimmer335i07

I think he's talking to his car again. He seems to do that from time to time.

[TurboBullett@Ambient Thermal Management]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

I can understand where people are getting confused and I think repetitive talking about it is only making it worse.

Basically if you put the pedal down halfway, you are driving off of boost. Right when you hit a magical point in the pedal travel, the ECU responds by saying "Ohh I see you put the pedal down further than normal, you want me to kick the turbos in and create boost huh?". Its at this point when boost starts to come in that the tune also starts to work. Theres no reason for the tune to modify any parameters when you are not making boost. This is why several other units have shown lesser mpg when you are cruising on the highway. Unless there is boost being made, the ECU is delivering OEM characteristics.

Its still one car and like Eric mentioned, it feels like a very powerful v8. Theres still a little kick when the turbos come in but its a progressive boost build. You dont get 14lbs of boost right when you put your foot down at 2500rpm. You might get 10 and then around 3500 get up to 11 then around 4500 12 and then 5200 13 and then 6000 14lbs.

Its so smooth in fact that it feels like an NA motor. I think thats the point myself and the others have been trying to make.

thats basically right the way we tuned it was for 11 psi down low 2000 rpms tapering to full boost by 4000rpm and maintaining full boost till about 6300 where the turbos die off a little bit. as far as the part throttle tuning that was done, at approximately 30% we start tapering in boost so its full boost at 60%. Below 30% throttle everything behaves as stock

[judec]

Originally Posted by Bimmer335i07

Originally Posted by TheJackal

I think he's talking to his car again. He seems to do that from time to time.

edited my post to make it easier to understand for those with reading issues

[Bimmer335i07]

Originally Posted by judec

edited my post to make it easier to understand for those with reading issues

The only one that has any issues, would be yourself.

Grow up! We have no need for people like you in this thread or forum for that matter.

[coolguy]

Originally Posted by TTurboBullett

thats basically right the way we tuned it was for 11 psi down low 2000 rpms tapering to full boost by 4000rpm and maintaining full boost till about 6300 where the turbos die off a little bit. as far as the part throttle tuning that was done, at approximately 30% we start tapering in boost so its full boost at 60%. Below 30% throttle everything behaves as stock

I am new here but read the thread everyday and I am also on the waiting list for Attache. I am getting a 135i step this march. Can you confirm if the same attache works for the 135i step too or a new tune is required? Thanks Mucho...!

[Bimmer335i07]

Originally Posted by coolguy

I am new here but read the thread everyday and I am also on the waiting list for Attache. I am getting a 135i step this march. Can you confirm if the same attache works for the 135i step too or a new tune is required? Thanks Mucho...!

Honestly, no one knows until they actually install it in a 135i. You might actually be the first.

Edit, just notice that you are not from ny/nj/pa. You might have to wait until they install the attache in an actual 135i first. There might or might not be a difference in calibration.

Congrats on ordering your 135i.

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by Bimmer335i07

The only one that has any issues, would be yourself.

Grow up! We have no need for people like you in this thread or forum for that matter.

I dont see that he did anything wrong. He was just quoting me and making a joke about it. Wasnt disrespectful.