[cyniclaus]

Originally Posted by David1

You have a front drive shaft that you probably need a special tool for. The transfer case is attached to the trans.

Can't really find anything specific on the x-drive. Sounds like a little more work (someone said it adds like 45 min).

Well, if Chewy's friend is willing to help out I might go that route, but otherwise I guess I'll cave in and go to KMS. I can't afford to wait much longer; I feel guilty every time I drive the car now it's slipping so bad.

For the future, I'm going to need to find a good full shop or "BMW guy". I plan on doing a lot of mods in the next few months and KMS won't touch anything that messes with stock emissions. I'm looking at DP, exhaust, coilovers, FMIC, and a CAI.

[Chewy734]

hey man,

Sorry, but he says he's going to pass. He doesn't have the time at the moment, and it's quite a big undertaking. He recommended getting it done at KMS.

[David1]

Call BMW Solon and get a quote.

[cyniclaus]

Originally Posted by Chewy734

hey man,

Sorry, but he says he's going to pass. He doesn't have the time at the moment, and it's quite a big undertaking. He recommended getting it done at KMS.

No problem, thanks for asking!

Originally Posted by David1

Call BMW Solon and get a quote.

You think a dealership would install an aftermarket clutch? Or you mean just to get a baseline of the general cost?

I called Premier Automotive and they quoted me $720 just for labor on the clutch, which at $60/hr means they are projecting about 12 hrs(!) and another $120 (2 hrs) for the shift kit. He said I shouldn't have gone with the ACT and should have got a Sachs. Brett at KMS said I should have gone with stock.

I don't think the BMW shops around here understand the the power people are putting down with just bolt-ons and a tune on the N54. If I erred, it was in not going with the 6-puck "race" ACT, but there are conflicting reports as to how hard it is to drive with that in stop & go traffic. Really wish I could have driven a car with the 6-puck installed before making my decision, but it seems that it is only now, with so many cars coming off warranty, that a lot of people are starting to look for serious power and uprated clutches to support it. Kind of sucks that there are no serious, experienced E9X/N54 tuners around here; I'll probably end up having to drive to a different state to get the bulk of my work done.

[David1]

Try these guys down here in Columbus. They support BMW CCA and Motorsports.

Tom Hatem Automotive
614-486-5277

I have had 2 tuned 335's and never had a clutch problem, but I also know people that went through clutches stock at 30k miles. My old 07 335 was tuned at 15 miles on it and they guy that now has it still is on the OEM at 40k+ miles. And puck clutches suck for the street. They chatter like a mo fo.

[cyniclaus]

Originally Posted by David1

Try these guys down here in Columbus. They support BMW CCA and Motorsports.

Tom Hatem Automotive
614-486-5277

Thanks, they look like a viable option...I'll give them a call in a month or two when I start planning my build in earnest

Originally Posted by David1

I have had 2 tuned 335's and never had a clutch problem... And puck clutches suck for the street. They chatter like a mo fo.

AWD really amplifies the stress on the drivetrain (learned this with my Evo and with my Cosworth before that), and with the mods I'm looking at I'd be putting at least 450 to the wheels, so I want to be on the safe side.

I've always heard the same about chatter with the pucked clutches, and that'd definitely be a turnoff on a daily driver, but I've read reviews from at least three people who claim it is negligible on the 335 as long as you stick with the stock dual mass flywheel.

[JaSSon]

A beefier clutch will actually add MORE stress to the drive line. Do it yourself! It'll be a learning experience.

[cyniclaus]

Originally Posted by JaSSon

A beefier clutch will actually add MORE stress to the drive line. Do it yourself! It'll be a learning experience.

This is true, and something I am all too familiar with after having snapped two halfshafts on my Cossie, but the 335 drivetrain is more robust. I've heard of some 335i drivers breaking halfshafts, but on RWD cars in dragstrip launches. By running a very strong clutch, RWD owners are transferring all the stress to the rear axle and if they are running slicks and doing high RPM clutch-dumps, it could be too much. The X-drive works in my favor as far as that is concerned since the center diff and front axle get some of the power, but the added traction means very little excess torque is bled out through wheelspin, so we need a better clutch. Only time will tell, but these are the risks one takes when adding 50% or more to the power a car was engineered to handle.

As far as DIY, there is no way I was going to attempt to disconnect and lower axles and a transfer case and place a non-OEM part as critical as the clutch. I ended up going with KMS; it ran me just under $1000 for labor on the clutch, SSK, and CDV delete + replacement bearings that they had to order, and Brett said it took them over 7 hours. From my perspective, just as a man who represents himself at trial has a fool for a lawyer, a mechanically inexperienced car enthusiast who decides to DIY on major repairs is putting his ride in the hands of an untrained, unlicensed, and uninsured mechanic.

The parts were installed by KMS on Wednesday. So far the jury is out on these parts until I get through the break-in, but if anybody cares to read my first impressions, they can be found in my main thread here

Thanks again for the advice! I'm just glad I can drive the car again without guilt or worry, and now I can start looking forward to the more serious mods I have planned for this spring

[David1]

And that's 7 hours on a lift let alone on the ground in the damp and cold.

[mad_max]

The relocation plans are final - moving to Tampa, FL. Winter wheels are coming off this weekend. Wheels are Tirerack Sport Edition A7, tires are Blizzak LM-22 runflats. Includes 2007 TPMS and BMW all season tire totes. I'm looking to get about $250, but open to offers! TPMS alone is worth about $150 used.

Will post pics this weekend.

[Chewy734]

Can any of you Columbus guys tell me a good place to get my winter tire/wheels swapped to my summers? Preferably close to the Powell area. I already tried Auto Assets but they charge an arm and a leg just for a simple 15-20 minute wheel swap. Sadly, MAG didn't have any Saturday appointments left. Thanks!

[David1]

They will all nick your rims in this town.

[wreaks610]

Does anyone have any recommendations about a place to service in Columbus? I had Tom Hatem's do a CDV replacement for me, and they look like a good place overall. Anyone have opinions?

[smokinHawk]

Originally Posted by wreaks610

Does anyone have any recommendations about a place to service in Columbus? I had Tom Hatem's do a CDV replacement for me, and they look like a good place overall. Anyone have opinions?

if your avoiding the dealership IPS motorsports is a great service and performance shop.
they have been doing a lot of BMW's there lately.

[neXgen328xi]

hey ya'll,

lived in ohio for what seems like forever, JUST picked up my 1st BMW, a 2008 328 XI

can't wait to really get into it and start making it my own...

looking to make it up to Timmayfest this year... hope to see some of ya'll there..

[divisionbell77]

Anyone know a good detail shop near Beachwood/Shaker Heights?

Not looking to break the bank, but want to get my current CX-7 detailed before putting it up for sale and looking for a 335i.

Someone nicely gave me a large surface scratch about a month ago and want to get buffed out. I do not have a good garage for doing winter work, or I'd be doing this myself.

Besides BMW Cleveland(in Solon), anyone know of any other good BMW dealers near me? Dayton has a nice 2008 335xi but they won't budge on the price and it will be hitting some pricey service soon, or am I being anal and that is a decent price to begin with?

[SpeedBuggy]

Had good dealings at BMW Cleveland. Strangely enough we have purchased four used BMW's in as many years and each one was purchased at a different dealership. Also had good dealings at Ganley's in Middleburg Heights, My oldest son purchased at Dave Walter in Akron and was treated well. All three negotiated with pricing. My youngest son purchased at Yark in Toledo, treated well but they would not budge on price, but they did go the extra mile to get him financed on his own thru BMW financial (23 Years old).

Looking for a 335xi is going to be tough. Suggest looking at the BMW/NA site (www.bmwusa.com), Highlight Certified Pre-Owned, Click model search and fill in the blanks.

[cyniclaus]

Originally Posted by SpeedBuggy

Looking for a 335xi is going to be tough. Suggest looking at the BMW/NA site (www.bmwusa.com), Highlight Certified Pre-Owned, Click model search and fill in the blanks.

+1

That's what I did when looking for my CPO in 2010. To get what I wanted (a fully loaded xi with 6MT) I ended up having to go to Ann Arbor!

[Chewy734]

I bought mine at Dave Walter. Excellent sales there, imo. I think they may also have the largest pre-owned inventory in NE Ohio.

[divisionbell77]

What do you guys think of these two cars pricing? The 2008, they will not budge much at all. I have not talked pricing on the 2009 yet.

2009 335i xdrive

2008 335xi

[SpeedBuggy]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

What do you guys think of these two cars pricing? The 2008, they will not budge much at all. I have not talked pricing on the 2009 yet.

2009 335i xdrive

2008 335xi

Haven't looked real close at other prices, but they seem fair, although you should be able to do better especially if your willing to be patient. The 2009 looks to only have 17" Diameter wheels, something to consider depending what size wheels and tires you are looking for. The 2008 has 18" on it, but make sure to find out if they are an all season or summer performance tires. Summer performance do not do well in the snow.

Read the carfax on the cars also. Watching how long a car has been in inventory may help. When I bought my 330i, it was on the lot well over 90 days, almost 120 days. I watched on the internet for a couple of months and then finally went and took it for a test drive and afterwards offered $4,000.00 under what the were asking which was already discounted $1,000.00. They said that would never fly. The dealer called the next day with a counter offer of $400.00 over my offer and needless to say I ran over and picked it up that weekend. I was not under any pressure to buy a car, so I was able to take my time and watch/research prices were at. In the end though, if you feel you got the car of your choice for the price you were willing to pay, then it was a good deal regardless of what anyone thinks. Shop around for interest rates also, we are possibly thinking about picking up a Mini Cooper (2008/2009) and rates can be had below 3%. Good Luck: thumbsup:

[divisionbell77]

Yeah, 2009 rates are 1.9 with BMWNA right now.

The 2008 they are not taking off more than $100, flat out not willing to deal. They are summer Potenza's and I would get some 17's used for winter.

It seems New England has some great deals when I expand to a 500 mile radius. I may have to make a deal for one of those and swing up there to pick it up and sell my current car locally instead of using it as a trade in.