[one30five]

Originally Posted by ShlemonboostedM

I'm not planing too run this at max boost.. 17psi or so with good powerband will be enough for me I hope so I can get away with just e85 mix no meth ..

not saying your going to have problems. just saying that potential of turbo may not be achieved. but with what you want to run I agree, no problem.

Originally Posted by ShlemonboostedM

Thanks guys !! Will deff post logs once installed ..

Originally Posted by iuhutch

That will be no problem. Start here and try going up you should find a good sweet spot. If your concerned start with 17 and post your logs we can help from there.

Minneapolis will be testing 5 of these with different tunes, set up, parts, etc. should have some very revealing data to report back!

[PeterPure]

The way i thought it works is that the gearbox has a set torque capacity from factory and it has a safety margin above it.

For my car the ZF 8 speed is officially rated at 500nm. However i read it is the same model as the one rated at 550nm. So i assume it can safely take 600nm, maybe a bit more.

Since all german tuners limit torque at 580/600 nm i believe this is a safe limit.

Now since i dynoed at different psi levels i now have a boost curve that targets psi values that generate max 600nm from 2500 till 4500 rpm. After that even with max boost it wont make 600nm.

Most of the time i dont go WOT starting at 3500 rpm or lower anyways. And when running max boost i always start from 4500 rpm or higher.

I have ran the turbo now for 3 months and 5000+ miles. And i have been testing it extensively so ran the car pretty hard.

So far no issues at all and no gearbox slippage either.

You can do the same for your dct boxes?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by one30five

So people who freak out about DCT not being "aggressive" i.e. dct not clamping clutch hard enough, don't know how it works?

I was one of them. based on some statements in Nugget's VTT thread people seem to think that DCT is making those calculations from boost readings, or torque figures which they (and subsequently I) thought would be reflected as stock numbers. so, to better express my point,( not that this is what actualy happens between DCT and DME) if stock boost is 8psi, and stock torque is 300 ft lbs, and FBO puts you around 15psi and 350 ft lbs, the DCT would be clamping based on 8psi and/or 300 ft lbs, not the latter. IS THIS NOT THE CASE?? The DCT is making clamping "aggressiveness" decisions based on what the JB4 is seeing? not the DME?

The DCT pressure is based on torque not boost, and that pressure is essentially maxed out by the factory tuning. Still if your DCT is slipping then there are not many options available short of a full rebuild. Try the back end flash map. There are some changes there that *may* further help.

Mike

[weeeee]

So this gives stock appearance to a dealer? How does it run without a tune when you bring it in though? Won't throw codes or drive terribly?

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by weeeee

So this gives stock appearance to a dealer? How does it run without a tune when you bring it in though? Won't throw codes or drive terribly?

It will drive like stock.

[snaimpally]

Originally Posted by weeeee

So this gives stock appearance to a dealer? How does it run without a tune when you bring it in though? Won't throw codes or drive terribly?

Its a BMW turbo housing with a larger wheel so it looks stock. Based on the torque curves, it would pull more strongly above 5k compared to stock, but not enough for the dealer to get suspicious.

[one30five]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

The DCT pressure is based on torque not boost, and that pressure is essentially maxed out by the factory tuning. Still if your DCT is slipping then there are not many options available short of a full rebuild. Try the back end flash map. There are some changes there that *may* further help.

Mike

thanks mike! appreciate it.

Must be worrying aabout nothing due to a misunderstanding of how it all works. I have yet to experience any kind of slipping. when I first started using E the car was really "jerky" and when pulling logs in sport auto I sensed the tranny didn't know wha gear to change, but anytime the dash reflected a gear change, it seemed solid. I wonder if people are perceiving a different issue as slipping. or maybe I have had some slipping and perceived it as a confused DCT

I'll be trying Jb4 with BMS BEF first. then cobb with some pro tuning. then i'll decide which I like better. At the end f the day i'll be upgrading clutch packs before going past stage 1 turbo, so its a moot point. just like to be educated

[one30five]

Originally Posted by Darkhold

The way i thought it works is that the gearbox has a set torque capacity from factory and it has a safety margin above it.

For my car the ZF 8 speed is officially rated at 500nm. However i read it is the same model as the one rated at 550nm. So i assume it can safely take 600nm, maybe a bit more.

Since all german tuners limit torque at 580/600 nm i believe this is a safe limit.

Now since i dynoed at different psi levels i now have a boost curve that targets psi values that generate max 600nm from 2500 till 4500 rpm. After that even with max boost it wont make 600nm.

Most of the time i dont go WOT starting at 3500 rpm or lower anyways. And when running max boost i always start from 4500 rpm or higher.

I have ran the turbo now for 3 months and 5000+ miles. And i have been testing it extensively so ran the car pretty hard.

So far no issues at all and no gearbox slippage either.

You can do the same for your dct boxes?

good points. the faster the tranny is spinning when you are making power the easier it can take said power. more power closer to redline is good for DCT. probably why the e92 M3 which makes it power @ 8500 rpm cn handle it, when it runs the same DCT components (at least when I look up parnt numbers between M3 DCT an 135i DCT everything appears to be the same)

[ShlemonboostedM]

Wondering if pure stg 1 at 16-17psi be faster then max out stock turbo at 18.5psi map7 ... Your opinions on it ? ( I'm just too excited .. Can't stop talking bout it ..)

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by one30five

thanks mike! appreciate it.

Must be worrying aabout nothing due to a misunderstanding of how it all works. I have yet to experience any kind of slipping. when I first started using E the car was really "jerky" and when pulling logs in sport auto I sensed the tranny didn't know wha gear to change, but anytime the dash reflected a gear change, it seemed solid. I wonder if people are perceiving a different issue as slipping. or maybe I have had some slipping and perceived it as a confused DCT

I'll be trying Jb4 with BMS BEF first. then cobb with some pro tuning. then i'll decide which I like better. At the end f the day i'll be upgrading clutch packs before going past stage 1 turbo, so its a moot point. just like to be educated

You can use the JB4 with a pro-tuned custom flash map too to keep your in dash gauges, 1st gear boost limiting, and other features working.

Mike

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by ShlemonboostedM

Wondering if pure stg 1 at 16-17psi be faster then max out stock turbo at 18.5psi map7 ... Your opinions on it ? ( I'm just too excited .. Can't stop talking bout it ..)

Yes it will be. My dyno showed it makes more power at same psi as stock turbo and you can rev to 6500 again. So your powerband after shifting will be bigger.

[iuhutch]

Bought this kit for all of the MN installers. Highly recommend; esp if you plan on upgrading the stg1 as these are reusable! 3 needed for each car.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-35...0E4aAvlf8P8HAQ

[loesch]

Originally Posted by iuhutch

Bought this kit for all of the MN installers. Highly recommend; esp if you plan on upgrading the stg1 as these are reusable! 3 needed for each car.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-35...0E4aAvlf8P8HAQ

Cool, thanks for the link. I ordered a set. $12 shipping for 3 bolts. haha.

[JETmn]

Not crazy about putting a steel bolt in something that is aluminum on both ends. The steel does not expand as much as the aluminum and can eventually alter the threads or even pull them out. Not to mention the galvanic corrosion issues that arise from it.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by JETmn

Not crazy about putting a steel bolt in something that is aluminum on both ends. The steel does not expand as much as the aluminum and can eventually alter the threads or even pull them out. Not to mention the galvanic corrosion issues that arise from it.

Great point. I might just go to the dealer and get new bolts. Probably cheaper anyway.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by JETmn

Yeah, if we have to buy a AP to flash anyway, why keep the JB4? I know you can switch maps on the fly, but that seems to be about it. I guess if I go on a trip I will have to do a flash at the first pitstop for 92 oct.

Just getting around to catching up on the thread action. lol. I'm going to stack the tunes. Keep the JB4 for boost control and just use Cobb basically to raise the AFR targets. The JB4 is better at adapting the boost set points. If you tune with Cobb you are tuning for a specific fuel and mods and you are stuck there. With the JB4 if you want to go from say 50% E85 back to 100% 93 octane you can simply change maps.

[jayzF30]

Originally Posted by loesch

Just getting around to catching up on the thread action. lol. I'm going to stack the tunes. Keep the JB4 for boost control and just use Cobb basically to raise the AFR targets. The JB4 is better at adapting the boost set points. If you tune with Cobb you are tuning for a specific fuel and mods and you are stuck there. With the JB4 if you want to go from say 50% E85 back to 100% 93 octane you can simply change maps.

I do not see your argument. You would do the same with Cobb and you have an actual tune that is made like the factory wanted it to be made, inside the DME, not through a resistor box.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by jazze90

I do not see your argument. You would do the same with Cobb and you have an actual tune that is made like the factory wanted it to be made, inside the DME, not through a resistor box.

I guess it's just a matter of ease of use. I like being able to change into a kill-mode map while sitting at a red light waiting for the green.

[jayzF30]

Originally Posted by loesch

I guess it's just a matter of ease of use. I like being able to change into a kill-mode map while sitting at a red light waiting for the green.

For me it is a matter of having a quality tune and if that means I have to wait 30 seconds for a map to switch in that odd situation that I change octane than so be it.

[Newguy123]

PURE TURBO INSTALLED!!

some of you saw my car was at PURE for their stage 1 upgrade. I got my car back saturday afternoon and made a custom map 6 targeting 19 psi. i currently just have S2jb4 ISO FF wires E45, axle back and cp. my initial "butt dyno" says my car is hauling the f#$%&ing mail!! I did take a few logs and raced a few friends that i have raced before. the outcome was very impressive. the difference 0-100 is at least 3 car legnths from before. (no driver error as my friend has a nearly FBO E60 M5 smg.) the boost comes on very strong and maintains it past 6k! i will post up logs later but it did show on one of my logs 17 psi at 6200 rpms. remember this is still with the CAT in its way. i would HIGHLY recommend this mod to anyone on the fence about it! plus the fact that pure will take the stage 1 back for a full credit toward their stage 2 when it comes out is just awesome. the difference is HUGE guys!! just as big as a stock tuned car vs jb4 iso FF wires e45 tuned car. easily a bus legnth difference to 100. I am soo glad i went with the upgrade PURE is a great company to work with. (they even had my car washed and all pretty when i went to pick it up!)

[loesch]

Originally Posted by jazze90

For me it is a matter of having a quality tune and if that means I have to wait 30 seconds for a map to switch in that odd situation that I change octane than so be it.

Did you have bad luck with jb4 or something? I have had a few bumps along the way but now I love it. The n54 guys stack the two all the time and they have great results.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by Newguy123

PURE TURBO INSTALLED!!

some of you saw my car was at PURE for their stage 1 upgrade. I got my car back saturday afternoon and made a custom map 6 targeting 19 psi. i currently just have S2jb4 ISO FF wires E45, axle back and cp. my initial "butt dyno" says my car is hauling the f#$%&ing mail!! I did take a few logs and raced a few friends that i have raced before. the outcome was very impressive. the difference 0-100 is at least 3 car legnths from before. (no driver error as my friend has a nearly FBO E60 M5 smg.) the boost comes on very strong and maintains it past 6k! i will post up logs later but it did show on one of my logs 17 psi at 6200 rpms. remember this is still with the CAT in its way. i would HIGHLY recommend this mod to anyone on the fence about it! plus the fact that pure will take the stage 1 back for a full credit toward their stage 2 when it comes out is just awesome. the difference is HUGE guys!! just as big as a stock tuned car vs jb4 iso FF wires e45 tuned car. easily a bus legnth difference to 100. I am soo glad i went with the upgrade PURE is a great company to work with. (they even had my car washed and all pretty when i went to pick it up!)

Thats great to hear man. Thanks for the review. I bet your stoked!