[jbake]

Quick question. Which is better, buffing with an actual rotary tool or one of those oscillating buffers?

[shoes]

I'm having some wheels custom powder coated by EAS in a matte finish. The finish is fairly smooth to the touch - not textured or grainy. I don't believe it will have any clear coat applied.

They suggested that I stick to just regular soap/water to keep them clean, but just soap and water isn't going to cut through brake dust very easily!

P21S claims that their wheel cleaner is safe "on every type of wheel and wheel coating."
I know it's probably difficult to say for sure without trying it first hand, but do you think the finish will be safe using P21S or any other similar product on them?

What about using a sealant/wax on them?

What would you suggest for cleaning and maintaining wheels with a finish like this?

Any advice would be great!

Here is a shot of the finish:

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jbake

Quick question. Which is better, buffing with an actual rotary tool or one of those oscillating buffers?

Better in what sense? Safer? Maximum gloss and depth? Deeper correction? A rotary buffer has the potential for faster cut and deeper gloss and depth when used properly, but there's a much higher potential to burn through or damage the paint. If this is your first time getting into polishing, I'd recommend a random orbital such as the PC 7424 XP or Flex XC3401VRG. There's also a lot more information regarding the differences between the buffers on our polishing how-to guide.

Originally Posted by shoes

I'm having some wheels custom powder coated by EAS in a matte finish. The finish is fairly smooth to the touch - not textured or grainy. I don't believe it will have any clear coat applied.

They suggested that I stick to just regular soap/water to keep them clean, but just soap and water isn't going to cut through brake dust very easily!

P21S claims that their wheel cleaner is safe "on every type of wheel and wheel coating."
I know it's probably difficult to say for sure without trying it first hand, but do you think the finish will be safe using P21S or any other similar product on them?

What about using a sealant/wax on them?

What would you suggest for cleaning and maintaining wheels with a finish like this?

Any advice would be great!

Here is a shot of the finish:

Good question... I'd recommend following what they recommended by using just soap and water for most of your maintenance. Before you install the new wheels, I'd recommend protecting both the face and inner barrels with a sealant, Optimum Opti-Seal works great since you can simply mist it on and wipe with a microfiber towel. By having your wheels protected, it'll make it so the brake dust slides right off.

P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner is safe enough to use on powder coated wheels. Another great wheel cleaner you could use at a better value is CG Diablo Gel Wheel Cleaner. You dilute the Diablo at a 3:1 rate so a 16 oz bottle lasts 4 times longer than the same size P21S bottle.

Enjoy the new wheels

[oilcrankinject]

I got through I rought winter in great shape until I washed my car for the first in 4 months (above freezing YAY)

Looks like somone took a key to my car. The scratch is short but it is deep. What is the best way to fix this? I have some other light scratches that I will need to buff out but what I should I use? I already have the buffer from you and the pad kit.

Sigh.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I got through I rought winter in great shape until I washed my car for the first in 4 months (above freezing YAY)

Looks like somone took a key to my car. The scratch is short but it is deep. What is the best way to fix this? I have some other light scratches that I will need to buff out but what I should I use? I already have the buffer from you and the pad kit.

Sigh.

If the scratch is thru the paint, there's nothing you can do other than to touch up the scratch or respray the panel. Polishing the scratch can remove some of the scuffed areas and make the scratch look smaller, but once paint is removed, you cannot polish out something that isn't there.

I'd recommend using something like Meguiar's M105 then follow up with M205 after. This combo works great on an orbital buffer. Here's a walk through guide on using the Meguiar's polishes properly.

This combo would also remove the other scratches you are referring to.

Good luck, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

[oilcrankinject]

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

Need to be careful with clay in an area that has no more paint left, sometimes the clay can catch the edge and chip the paint. Best bet is to clean the surface and skip the clay IMO. Chances are you wont catch the edge but ive heard stories.

[Dackz]

I spoke with a detailer today, I will get my car professionaly done this round in preparation to do it on my own from here on out (we looked and I have a bit more swirlage then I thought, so I want them out correctly).

George,

He said he has no problem using a product with which I bring in to use, so I am going with the Blackfire Wet Diamond for my sealant. He is using the M105/M205 to polish (claying and all that before hand though).

I think the QD that I would want to use after this has been applied (a few days cure of course) would be http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...ycharger-P272/ correct? I can spray this on every couple of weeks to help keep the sealant working then in the summer (approx 4 months later) its sealant time again, then what would I use to take the sealant off to put new sealant on? I would then use that Opti QD and clay, and be ready to go for sealant again.

This looks like the soap/wash to use during regular cleanings since it says it wont remove my finish http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P200/16-oz-S1/
And this looks like the soap to use when I want to strip it all off and reseal it http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P410/16-oz-S1/

I might add that the blackfire QD is a tad pricey...is there also another product I could use with it for when I get some dust/dirt in a spot or 2 but its not enough for a wash?


Then..when fall comes..inspect my damage on swirls and decide whether to just seal it or polish it again at that point lol.

Sorry for the rambling questions...I dont think I did quite enough properly on my car this past year to keep it as good as I could...better then 98% of the general public but probably 40-60% of the enthusiasts, lol.

One last question...have some FINE scratches in the wood grain on the interior...suggestion for getting them out?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

As JPSlick mentioned, you may want to skip the clay step, but what I would recommend after cleaning the surface is to spray something to strip any previous wax, such as Isopropyl Alcohol. You want to make sure the paint doesn't have any sealant or wax hindering the curing process. The rest of the process is good... I'd recommend taking your time, using a toothpick or something very fine to get the paint into the scratch, your better off building it up with multiple thin applications, perform a light wet sand and polish away to an even finish. Make sure you let the paint cure before sanding and polishing. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Dackz

I spoke with a detailer today, I will get my car professionaly done this round in preparation to do it on my own from here on out (we looked and I have a bit more swirlage then I thought, so I want them out correctly).

George,

He said he has no problem using a product with which I bring in to use, so I am going with the Blackfire Wet Diamond for my sealant. He is using the M105/M205 to polish (claying and all that before hand though).

I think the QD that I would want to use after this has been applied (a few days cure of course) would be http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...ycharger-P272/ correct? I can spray this on every couple of weeks to help keep the sealant working then in the summer (approx 4 months later) its sealant time again, then what would I use to take the sealant off to put new sealant on? I would then use that Opti QD and clay, and be ready to go for sealant again.

This looks like the soap/wash to use during regular cleanings since it says it wont remove my finish http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P200/16-oz-S1/
And this looks like the soap to use when I want to strip it all off and reseal it http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P410/16-oz-S1/

I might add that the blackfire QD is a tad pricey...is there also another product I could use with it for when I get some dust/dirt in a spot or 2 but its not enough for a wash?


Then..when fall comes..inspect my damage on swirls and decide whether to just seal it or polish it again at that point lol.

Sorry for the rambling questions...I dont think I did quite enough properly on my car this past year to keep it as good as I could...better then 98% of the general public but probably 40-60% of the enthusiasts, lol.

One last question...have some FINE scratches in the wood grain on the interior...suggestion for getting them out?

The Blackfire Wet Diamond and Deep Gloss Spray is an excellent combo that will help you get the most out of the Wet Diamond protection.

To strip everything off, you can use a concentrated shampoo like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or some isopropyl alcohol would do the trick. The BF shampoo you mentioned would be a good maintenance shampoo, especially since you'll be using Wet Diamond and Deep Gloss Spray.

I would treat the Deep Gloss Spray as your spray on protection after maintenance washes. For the light dirt / dust times you mentioned, the Optimum Instant Detailer is a nice option or perhaps Optimum No Rinse in the QD ratio.

I can tell you did some great research already, you're going to love the look of your car after properly caring for it with this combo.

For the wood grain scratches / swirls, you treat it the same as your paint but you don't want to go as aggressive on the trim. Something like Meguiar's ScratchX or a light pass of Meguiar's M205 should do the trick.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

Be sure to keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

George

[Dackz]

Thanks George. Great info and thanks for the help. I will let ya know/show ya how it looks in a few weeks after I get it all done. Have to wait for the weather to get better.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Dackz

Thanks George. Great info and thanks for the help. I will let ya know/show ya how it looks in a few weeks after I get it all done. Have to wait for the weather to get better.

Sounds good. Looking forward to seeing your results, and the better weather.

[dtm@heart]

Hi Detailed Image, just wondering what the life expectancy for a cutting pad (orange) usually is.

I'm about to do a detail on my car, but I only have one cutting pad from when I began using the PC. It was clogged up so I washed it and I can see the little polishing beads stuck in the foam, but its no where near as clogged as it was before.

Assuming I can keep it unclogged for my detail, can I still use this for my upcoming detail or should I get some backups?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by dtm@heart

Hi Detailed Image, just wondering what the life expectancy for a cutting pad (orange) usually is.

I'm about to do a detail on my car, but I only have one cutting pad from when I began using the PC. It was clogged up so I washed it and I can see the little polishing beads stuck in the foam, but its no where near as clogged as it was before.

Assuming I can keep it unclogged for my detail, can I still use this for my upcoming detail or should I get some backups?

Thanks!

The life of any pad is directly related to how well you care for your pads. If you clean them right away and do not over saturate the pads with product, they may last years. I have ruined pads in one use by not caring or treating them properly in the past as well.

I would highly recommend picking up some additional pads in the future, it will make your life significantly easier in the long run. By using multiple pads, you don't saturate the product on the pads and they come out fresher each time. You can also take a tooth brush and run the PC at a medium speed and gently glide the brush over the pad to help release the polish from the pad. It's also always good to keep multiple pads around in the event you drop one or it becomes contaminated from hitting dirt or some trim, etc.

If there's any other questions you may have, let me know.

George

[bma]

Hey George,

I am looking into buying some wheel cleaner like P21S or CG Sticky Wheel Gel, however I like to keep a coat of wheel sealant on the wheels. Will the wheel cleaners remove the sealant?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by bma

Hey George,

I am looking into buying some wheel cleaner like P21S or CG Sticky Wheel Gel, however I like to keep a coat of wheel sealant on the wheels. Will the wheel cleaners remove the sealant?

Thanks!

Typically any wheel cleaner will degrade any type of protection you may put on your wheels. If you keep a fresh coat of wheel sealant on your wheels and you maintain your vehicle on a regular basis, all you should need is soap and water to remove the brake dust.

If you are going to use a wheel cleaner and want to maximize the protection, you'll want to use a very diluted version of the wheel cleaner. You could try something like Diablo Gel Wheel Cleaner at a 6:1 dilution ratio or either of the wheel cleaners you mentioned diluted down a bit.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George

[TomE92]

Hey George, I recently bought a used 2008 335i in Jet Black and I've noticed multiple scratches and swirl marks everywhere.

I used to use (just washed with NXT car wash actually) off the shelf items like Meguiars NXT line of car wash, polish, and wax. I've noticed that the wax doesn't last that long and the polish doesn't really hide much of the fine swirl marks. It definitely does keep that wet look for awhile though. (I haven't clay barred or polished/waxed my car yet)

What do you recommend I use to make my car have that wet look, minimize swirls/scratches, and have waxes and polishes that last longer on the car? All without breaking my bank Main thing I'm going to invest in is the Porter Cable 7424XP.

I've also noticed that my wash mitt and waffle weave MF towel makes swirl marks too. What do you recommend for that?

PS: Is it a good idea to use a squeegee to dry cars? I've been using it for years now but others say it's a bad idea?


Thanks for your time!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by TomE92

Hey George, I recently bought a used 2008 335i in Jet Black and I've noticed multiple scratches and swirl marks everywhere.

I used to use (just washed with NXT car wash actually) off the shelf items like Meguiars NXT line of car wash, polish, and wax. I've noticed that the wax doesn't last that long and the polish doesn't really hide much of the fine swirl marks. It definitely does keep that wet look for awhile though. (I haven't clay barred or polished/waxed my car yet)

What do you recommend I use to make my car have that wet look, minimize swirls/scratches, and have waxes and polishes that last longer on the car? All without breaking my bank Main thing I'm going to invest in is the Porter Cable 7424XP.

I've also noticed that my wash mitt and waffle weave MF towel makes swirl marks too. What do you recommend for that?

PS: Is it a good idea to use a squeegee to dry cars? I've been using it for years now but others say it's a bad idea?

Thanks for your time!

Hey Tom,

Congrats on the 335 pick up. If you're going to invest in a PC, I'd highly recommend looking into this PC 7424XP kit with Meguiar's polishes. This will give you everything you need to remove a majority of the swirls and imperfections in your paint. If you follow this how-to tutorial for the Meg's polishes, you'll achieve some outstanding results.

Prior to polishing, I'd highly recommend using a clay bar on your paint to properly prep the surface. I'd recommend our DI gentle grade clay kit.

For protection, if you are looking for the most durable solution, go with a quality sealant. I'd recommend looking into Blackfire Wet Diamond or Optimum Opti-Seal as two great options for you.

You definitely don't want to use a squeegee for anything, guaranteed marring and swirls on jet black paint. Chances are you could benefit from some new washing and drying products, but most importantly, it's your washing and drying technique that minimize adding imperfections. If your looking for some new wash products, take a look at this starter kit to get you going.

That should get you started in the right direction and meet all of your needs. Look things over and let me know if you have any questions on anything.

Thanks again, keep me posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.

All the best,

George

[jsublime]

Why do I need a separate wheel wax? What would happen if just used some sealant or wax that I put on my paint?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jsublime

Why do I need a separate wheel wax? What would happen if just used some sealant or wax that I put on my paint?

You certainly can use a paint sealant on your wheels. I wouldn't recommend a wax, the protection wouldn't hold up much more than a day or two. The wheel specific products are usually designed to withstand more heat and can often leave behind a slicker surface. They also are designed to work on various metal surfaces, where a paint sealant is primarily designed to bond to a clear coat. If you are looking for a wheel specific product, I recommend PB Wheel Sealant. Otherwise go ahead and use your paint sealant and you'll still get some good results.

[nmulax]

George,

Moved across the country at the start of winter, and of course the only box the shipping company lost was full of my detailing products. I still have some CG Maxi-Suds and CW&G, but lost the rest.

I'm looking for your recommendations on the following:
- wheel sealant
- wheel cleaner (something that will really cut through brake dust)
- general degreaser (wheel wells, engine bay, etc)
- tire dressing (not to oily/shiny)
- 2 levels of polish. A final polish, then a more aggressive one to get our deeper swirls/hazing.
- 2 pad suggestions to go with the polishes.
- a sealant or two (I prefer ones that can be layered and will last a while)
- a nice carnauba wax for that deep wet-paint look
- QD

Also, what are your thoughts on some of the spray-on-waxs out there? To use as extra shine/protection between details.
And what exactly are glazes for?

Working with my Silver-Gray Z4M, a Black Sapphire BMW. Then a white Cadillac SRX and dark-red Mazda 3.


Thanks,
Adam

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nmulax

George,

Moved across the country at the start of winter, and of course the only box the shipping company lost was full of my detailing products. I still have some CG Maxi-Suds and CW&G, but lost the rest.

I'm looking for your recommendations on the following:
- wheel sealant
- wheel cleaner (something that will really cut through brake dust)
- general degreaser (wheel wells, engine bay, etc)
- tire dressing (not to oily/shiny)
- 2 levels of polish. A final polish, then a more aggressive one to get our deeper swirls/hazing.
- 2 pad suggestions to go with the polishes.
- a sealant or two (I prefer ones that can be layered and will last a while)
- a nice carnauba wax for that deep wet-paint look
- QD

Also, what are your thoughts on some of the spray-on-waxs out there? To use as extra shine/protection between details.
And what exactly are glazes for?

Working with my Silver-Gray Z4M, a Black Sapphire BMW. Then a white Cadillac SRX and dark-red Mazda 3.

Thanks,
Adam

Adam,

Sorry to hear about your detailing goods disappearing from the move.

Here's what I'd recommend for the products you were looking for...

Wheel sealant - Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is your best bet.

For a wheel cleaner that really cuts through brake dust, Meguiar's Wheel Brightener is your answer. This is our most powerful wheel cleaner, but keep in mind it needs to be used according to direction and diluted properly otherwise you could potentially damage your wheels. Also keep in mind, this will strip off any protection you may have, so once you apply the Wheel Sealant, try to maintain your wheels with soap and water and only use the wheel cleaner when you know you can strip off the protection and reapply the wheel sealant. If you have after market wheels with a different finish, you do not want to use Meg's Wheel Brightener. For a safer (but not as strong) alternative, consider CG Diablo Gel Wheel Cleaner.

For a general degreaser, it's tough to beat Meguiar's D101 or Meguiar's D103. The main difference between the two is that the D103 is a low sudsing formula, making it more appealing to professionals who use a carpet extractor. Both products will perform very nicely even at a 10:1 dilution ratio.

For a tire dressing on the less shiny side, consider Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright. BnB does a great job getting absorbed into your tires and has more of a natural semi-gloss look to it. If you were to wipe it down, you'd be left with more of a new tire look. It's water based and won't sling onto your paint and actually does a good job nourishing your rubber, rather than drying it out like many silicone based dressings can.

Your best 2 step polish to tackle nearly any level of swirl and imperfections is the Meguiar's M105 and M205 combo. It's the polish of choice by many top professional detailers and you can achieve excellent results even on a random orbital with them. Here's a how-to on properly using the Meg's polish combo as well as an article on selecting the proper pad for M105/M205.

For a sealant that can be layered and lasts a while, consider Blackfire Wet Diamond or if you're looking for more of a spray on sealant, consider Optimum Opti-Seal. Both products are some of the more durable sealants on the market and look great on any color vehicle.

A glaze will help prep the surface for a sealant or wax to adhere to as well as often leave behind an additional layer of gloss and depth and sometimes it can fill in minor imperfections. If you're going the sealant route, then your best option is Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze since it's acrylic based. Oil based glazes typically don't work well with sealants because it can hinder the bonding of the sealant onto the paint.

For a carnauba wax, you could just stock up on some Optimum Car Wax and use that after each wash on the cars you have mentioned. This is one of the best spray on waxes and looks great on any color. It may give you a small percentage less depth and gloss than a higher quality carnauba wax, but it's very easy to apply, is as durable as most paste waxes and is affordable. If you're looking for an all around carnauba wax that looks great on all color vehicles, consider Chemical Guys 50/50 wax. It's a 16 oz wax vs many that are 8 oz or less, so if you're using it on a lot of cars, it's a great value.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with. Many of the products mentioned are on sale through the end of the month, so if you act quick you can save quite a bit.

Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out once you get a chance to use your new products.

Cheers,

George

[bma]

Hey George,

I'm getting ready for my first detail on my jet black e92. I currently have a PC and 1 orange, 1 white, and 1 black pad. Do you think I need to order another set of pads, or will one of each be enough? I'm using SIP and PO106FF.

Thanks!