[Corms85]

I have frozen white and did Xpel stealth PPF on the front of my car and ceramic coating over everything and washing the car the last 6 months has been easy. I use Dr. Beasely's spray between washes to keep the car looking clean and it works great and everything wipes off easy with a microfiber towel and no scratches or marks from doing this 2-3 times a month.

[kiw1]

Originally Posted by Corms85

I use Dr. Beasely's spray between washes

Final finish?

[RothwellSF]

Originally Posted by Corms85

I have frozen white and did Xpel stealth PPF on the front of my car and ceramic coating over everything and washing the car the last 6 months has been easy. I use Dr. Beasely's spray between washes to keep the car looking clean and it works great and everything wipes off easy with a microfiber towel and no scratches or marks from doing this 2-3 times a month.

If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost for front PPF? I have FDG incoming and have been getting some crazy quotes.

[balefire]

Bump.
Soon to be F91 M8 convertible owner in frozen grey.
Everyone on the F92 board seems to have the coin for full PPF.
I don't like the look or cost of PPF.

Is the Dr. Beasley Matte Coating "Pro" really worth $500 vs their regular Matte Coating at $50?
What's the actual difference?
And you still have to use their AdvancedMatte maintenance every 3 months for either, correct?
Thanks!

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by balefire

Bump.
Soon to be F91 M8 convertible owner in frozen grey.
Everyone on the F92 board seems to have the coin for full PPF.
I don't like the look or cost of PPF.

Is the Dr. Beasley Matte Coating "Pro" really worth $500 vs their regular Matte Coating at $50?
What's the actual difference?
And you still have to use their AdvancedMatte maintenance every 3 months for either, correct?
Thanks!

Yes it most definitely is worth it! I used the basic matte coating the first month and was pretty happy with it. I kept looking at the pro kit and finally said screw it and ordered it. Complete different results. I’ve had the pro ceramic on my car for 18 months and you can tell the coating is still holding up perfectly. Beads water like no other, especially on a satin finish where water really doesn’t like to bead.

Plus, my car is a daily, sits outside majority of the time, and has seen it’s fair share of grime and bird droppings. Not a single stain or damage to the paint. Over 16k miles on this coating, zero PPF. I never drank the PPF koolaid and completely happy with how my frozen white has held up.

I have only done the advanced coat a couple times over the last 18 months. I probably should have done it more frequently, but the original coating seems just fine.

I talked to Dr Beasley’s about the pro coating quite a bit. Reason for its price, it’s hardness rating of 10h. One of the highest on the market. It’s as good as ceramic coatings get. The best part, it was extremely easy to DIY! I was stressing it at first, but it was a breeze.

[mikecsa]

Frozen White with full front Xpel Stealth and xpel ceramic on the PPF and a 2 year matte ceramic on the rest of the car. Match between PPF and paint is nonexistent to my eyes...I was so worried about the carbon fiber not matching the factory carbon package that I went with all OEM carbon M performance parts if that tells you anything about my OCD on the car matching. I picked up Chemical guys matte wash and spray detailer at Autozone, but havent used either yet because Ive only had the car for a minute.

[balefire]

Made my kids wash and ceramic coat my brand new frozen grey m8 convertible in freezing weather this AM.
Ultimately picked Dr. Beasley Matte Paint Coating regular due to cost and my limited understanding of what made the Pro version 10x better.

Any idea if Dr. B Matte Final Finish is worth spraying to boost the ceramic coat or just use AdvanceCoat Matte? How often?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by balefire

Made my kids wash and ceramic coat my brand new frozen grey m8 convertible in freezing weather this AM.
Ultimately picked Dr. Beasley Matte Paint Coating regular due to cost and my limited understanding of what made the Pro version 10x better.

Any idea if Dr. B Matte Final Finish is worth spraying to boost the ceramic coat or just use AdvanceCoat Matte? How often?

My matte routine over the last 22 months with my frozen white G80;

I have only used Final Finish maybe once a month. I don’t think it boosts the ceramic, but definitely adds a nice layer to protect for a bit (the wash the follows is always easier).

I used the AdvanceCoat Matte maybe twice a year. I did apply the ceramic Pro kit though, and it’s kept it looking fabulous, and of course very easy to clean.

As for the differences between the standard ceramic and Pro kit… they are both great, but the Pro is noticeably better at beading water and longevity. I did the standard matte coating once I purchased the car, and about 2 months in I decided to give the Pro a go. Expensive but well worth it. It’s a 10h rating, one of the hardest ratings of any ceramic (explains the price), and it has definitely protected the finish from the elements.

[Kief]

Do you guys use your run of the mill microfiber wash mitt? And microfiber towel to apply final finish? I thought I read not to use microfiber, so then what else is there to apply soap/finish?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

Do you guys use your run of the mill microfiber wash mitt? And microfiber towel to apply final finish? I thought I read not to use microfiber, so then what else is there to apply soap/finish?

I’ve been using wash mitts from Dr Beasley’s for a while now, along with high quality microfibers from Griots and Dr Beasley’s. A microfiber will have to be used with final finish, and any of their matte cleaners and ceramics. Like I’ve mentioned before though, you never want to apply too much pressure, and also avoid “rubbing” the paint.

Here are the mitts. I replace mine every 3-4 months. And if they ever fall on the ground, they go straight to the trash.

https://www.drbeasleys.com/wash-pad-9-x-9.html

[Kief]

Originally Posted by FISH22

I’ve been using wash mitts from Dr Beasley’s for a while now, along with high quality microfibers from Griots and Dr Beasley’s. A microfiber will have to be used with final finish, and any of their matte cleaners and ceramics. Like I’ve mentioned before though, you never want to apply too much pressure, and also avoid “rubbing” the paint.

Here are the mitts. I replace mine every 3-4 months. And if they ever fall on the ground, they go straight to the trash.

https://www.drbeasleys.com/wash-pad-9-x-9.html

Thanks, Pete.
And what about drying, cobra waffle weave drying towel, or just good thick microfiber towels? I can’t use a blower to dry my cars bc in order to clean them in the shade and the position of my driveway, I have to wash my cars in the early morning hours just before sunrise and the noise would be obnoxious to my neighbors.

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

Thanks, Pete.
And what about drying, cobra waffle weave drying towel, or just good thick microfiber towels? I can’t use a blower to dry my cars bc in order to clean them in the shade and the position of my driveway, I have to wash my cars in the early morning hours just before sunrise and the noise would be obnoxious to my neighbors.

No problem!

I invested in the CR Spotless system a while back. It would be my final rinse, and I wouldn’t touch the car for drying. I could let it sit and zero spots; no hand drying or blow drying.

I was using that 100% of the time in the first 12 months, but once I got more comfortable with frozen and realized I was being a bit too obsessive, I now mostly just blow dry, and then gently go over the surface with a large drying microfiber. I need to replace the filters in my CR system, but a normal drying microfiber is completely fine. Just very light passes and no pressure/rubbing.

I’ve watched so many matte paint videos over the last couple years, and it can definitely take a beating. It’s completely ok to use a drying microfiber; I use a chemical guys one, and it’s very large and plush. If you want to take it another step further, Dr Beasley’s has a drying spray for matte paints. From what I’ve read, it has some ceramic and lubricates to prevent scratching.

My 2 cents when it comes to “glossing” frozen, and you might see this on older matte finishes, but it’s either the wrong products being used or maybe wrong ceramic coating.. or, constant touching of the paint with low quality or old microfibers.

My tactic has proven well. 2 years, 17k miles, daily driver, outside most of the time, the frozen finish still has that beautiful satin like new finish.

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

Thanks, Pete.
And what about drying, cobra waffle weave drying towel, or just good thick microfiber towels? I can’t use a blower to dry my cars bc in order to clean them in the shade and the position of my driveway, I have to wash my cars in the early morning hours just before sunrise and the noise would be obnoxious to my neighbors.

Here’s the stuff for drying. Might be overkill, and their stuff isn’t cheap.

https://www.drbeasleys.com/matte-paint-hero.html

[Kief]

Originally Posted by FISH22

No problem!

I invested in the CR Spotless system a while back. It would be my final rinse, and I wouldn’t touch the car for drying. I could let it sit and zero spots; no hand drying or blow drying.

I was using that 100% of the time in the first 12 months, but once I got more comfortable with frozen and realized I was being a bit too obsessive, I now mostly just blow dry, and then gently go over the surface with a large drying microfiber. I need to replace the filters in my CR system, but a normal drying microfiber is completely fine. Just very light passes and no pressure/rubbing.

I’ve watched so many matte paint videos over the last couple years, and it can definitely take a beating. It’s completely ok to use a drying microfiber; I use a chemical guys one, and it’s very large and plush. If you want to take it another step further, Dr Beasley’s has a drying spray for matte paints. From what I’ve read, it has some ceramic and lubricates to prevent scratching.

My 2 cents when it comes to “glossing” frozen, and you might see this on older matte finishes, but it’s either the wrong products being used or maybe wrong ceramic coating.. or, constant touching of the paint with low quality or old microfibers.

My tactic has proven well. 2 years, 17k miles, daily driver, outside most of the time, the frozen finish still has that beautiful satin like new finish.

Thanks again. It’s great getting experienced feedback from you!

Last quick question (I think lol), what (if any) tire shrine is considered safe for our frozen paints given the inevitable tire sling on our panels?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

Thanks again. It’s great getting experienced feedback from you!

Last quick question (I think lol), what (if any) tire shrine is considered safe for our frozen paints given the inevitable tire sling on our panels?

Haha all good! I’m passionate about people not being gun-shy with frozen. It’s such a unique paint to experience, and most just avoid it.

The only tire shine I’ve used is Dr Beasley’s. Really good stuff. The tires won’t be super shiny, but it gives a nice deep black look. Here it is:

https://www.drbeasleys.com/matte-tire-conditioner.html

[FISH22]

One item if note; their matte soap is great, but does not foam well in a foamer. I use Chemical Guys matte soap for foaming. It’s cheap and you’ll go through quite a bit. To get the Dr Beasley’s soap to foam well, you have to use A LOT, and it’s not cheap.

[Kief]

Originally Posted by FISH22

One item if note; their matte soap is great, but does not foam well in a foamer. I use Chemical Guys matte soap for foaming. It’s cheap and you’ll go through quite a bit. To get the Dr Beasley’s soap to foam well, you have to use A LOT, and it’s not cheap.

You read my mind…I thought I read one of your posts above that you use CG matte soap first and then use Beasley’s for a second wash. Or do you just use CG for the washing?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

You read my mind…I thought I read one of your posts above that you use CG matte soap first and then use Beasley’s for a second wash. Or do you just use CG for the washing?

I use the CG stuff only for foaming. The actual wash bucket gets the Dr Beasley’s soap. This is just my method. I could probably switch completely to CG soap for the whole wash though.

[Kief]

Originally Posted by FISH22

I use the CG stuff only for foaming. The actual wash bucket gets the Dr Beasley’s soap. This is just my method. I could probably switch completely to CG soap for the whole wash though.

Another quickie, any recommendations for where to buy touchup paint?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Kief

Another quickie, any recommendations for where to buy touchup paint?

Yeah this is who I use. A few other members have had success with this company as well. I actually just used it recently after letting it sit for over a year. Good stuff and it matches really well.

https://scratcheshappen.com/shop/tou...SABEgK7cfD_BwE

[FISH22]

Recent video from Dr Beasley’s. Love these guys.

[91blksi]

Tried Dr Beasley matte paint cleanser, it didn’t remove the white water spots out of my frozen black paint…can someone recommend another product ?