[stuta]

Originally Posted by RS DAVE

That's because the dde isn't seeing a signal from the auto box, so it thinks the box is overheating. there is a thin trigger wire that runs along side the 2 thick fan wires, brake into it with 2 core wire and put a small switch on the dash. when you need A/C you will need to switch the fan on, as of yet know one has sussed a way round it. even when you code it, it will still do that.

well well well!
my situation is not that tricky but i just can't seem to find a solution.

1. my car was automatic, which i converted to manual (no problem)

2. i have 2 different locksets, both 2 keys, CAS and DDE. one is automatic which came with the car. the other one is manual which i bought a while back.

3. if i put the automatic DDE,CAS into car....i get no DSC warning on dash but i have to depress both brake and clutch since my car is not coded to MT and the fan runs non stop of course, no reverse lights although wiring is set up correctly (i believe)

4. with the manual DDE, CAS....only clutch needs depressing to start car, fan does not run non stop and the annoying thing is DSC warning on dash.
traction control is off, can't use cruise control....still no reverse lights

ABS pump VIN does obviously not match that of manual DDE and CAS hence the 5DD2 and 5DD0 fault codes in INPA.

is there a way i can change the ABS VIN to match manual DDE and CAS to get rid of these warning lights? calibrating did not help, error: VIN does not match.


if all this is not possible and i must resort to installing a fan switch on the dashboard like you adviced...
will the fan switch on to cool the engine by itself when necessary or must i activate it myself and when?

hope all this makes sense...

[RS DAVE]

Originally Posted by stuta

well well well!
my situation is not that tricky but i just can't seem to find a solution.

1. my car was automatic, which i converted to manual (no problem)

2. i have 2 different locksets, both 2 keys, CAS and DDE. one is automatic which came with the car. the other one is manual which i bought a while back.

3. if i put the automatic DDE,CAS into car....i get no DSC warning on dash but i have to depress both brake and clutch since my car is not coded to MT and the fan runs non stop of course, no reverse lights although wiring is set up correctly (i believe)

4. with the manual DDE, CAS....only clutch needs depressing to start car, fan does not run non stop and the annoying thing is DSC warning on dash.
traction control is off, can't use cruise control....still no reverse lights

ABS pump VIN does obviously not match that of manual DDE and CAS hence the 5DD2 and 5DD0 fault codes in INPA.

is there a way i can change the ABS VIN to match manual DDE and CAS to get rid of these warning lights? calibrating did not help, error: VIN does not match.


if all this is not possible and i must resort to installing a fan switch on the dashboard like you adviced...
will the fan switch on to cool the engine by itself when necessary or must i activate it myself and when?

hope all this makes sense...

I have contacted a guy in France,who can solve these problems, i will let you know how i get on. hopefully this will be the solution.......

[stuta]

Sounds like a plan!

[RS DAVE]

Originally Posted by stuta

Sounds like a plan!

The guy in france solved these small issue's we sent my dde configeration file to him he sent 1 back that was standard map, i had my car mapped to 360hp, i was there when it was mappedi it was a fucking missile, he said the file i sent him was 100% stock and my car hadn't been mapped. i think he just sent a standard file back to me and didn't read my file, there is another guy who gave me his contact he did the same to him. if you want his name i'll send you a pm. don't tell you spoke to me i'm not his favourite person.

[Maniac0908]

Can some one post for detailed instructions of all the wiring needed. It's a tad bit confusing on the clutch switch and all. I have a manual harness, do I still need to keep the auto one tucked in? Or is that only if your bypassing things and not using the manual harness? Where do I wire in clutch switch? What pins? Where can I buy connector. Help me baby Jesus!

[stuta]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Can some one post for detailed instructions of all the wiring needed. It's a tad bit confusing on the clutch switch and all. I have a manual harness, do I still need to keep the auto one tucked in? Or is that only if your bypassing things and not using the manual harness? Where do I wire in clutch switch? What pins? Where can I buy connector. Help me baby Jesus!

1st page on thread, 35 to 39
i will have to rip my car open to better explain to u with pictures and all...if nobody comes to your aid that is.

[stuta]

Originally Posted by RS DAVE

The guy in france solved these small issue's we sent my dde configeration file to him he sent 1 back that was standard map, i had my car mapped to 360hp, i was there when it was mappedi it was a fucking missile, he said the file i sent him was 100% stock and my car hadn't been mapped. i think he just sent a standard file back to me and didn't read my file, there is another guy who gave me his contact he did the same to him. if you want his name i'll send you a pm. don't tell you spoke to me i'm not his favourite person.

thanks and sorry for your lost remap files...back to square one o guess...

i understand all i need to do is to change my VO since i am using a manual DDE.
question is, how do i change my VO? what do i add or remove from it to get rid of the dash lights?

[Maniac0908]

1st page on thread, 35 to 39
i will have to rip my car open to better explain to u with pictures and all...if nobody comes to your aid that is.

Ok. So I looked up that part number for the connector. Has the connector that plugs into module, they splits to 2 other connectors. Do these plug into cas? Or do I still need to pull plugs off and push pins in. Also do I still need to run wire from dme to switch for cruise control with this connector? I'm sorry for all the questions if they are dumb. I just don't want to get into this and be stuck...

thanks and sorry for your lost remap files...back to square one o guess...

i understand all i need to do is to change my VO since i am using a manual DDE.
question is, how do i change my VO? what do i add or remove from it to get rid of the dash lights?

What's a dde?

[Maniac0908]

Also, does anyone know. Is the awd gear selector assembly different from the rwd? And is the N54 different from the n55? I found one from a 335xi but it’s a n55.

[stuta]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Ok. So I looked up that part number for the connector. Has the connector that plugs into module, they splits to 2 other connectors. Do these plug into cas? Or do I still need to pull plugs off and push pins in. Also do I still need to run wire from dme to switch for cruise control with this connector? I'm sorry for all the questions if they are dumb. I just don't want to get into this and be stuck...



What's a dde?

the clutch switch has 4 wires running to it.
no.1 wire is brown and should be connected to other ground wires underneath the dash
no.2 wire which should be blue runs to no. 18 on the ECU/DME
no.3 wire which is a bit greenish or so... goes to number 3 on CAS
no.4 wire goes to no.41 on CAS

there is no connector at no.3 position on CAS but you can pull off one from old harness and plug it in there

i think there is already a wire running to position 41 and here you simply bridge the wire from clutch switch on to the wire already on CAS and cover it up with insulation tape.

once this is done you should be able to start car with both brake and clutch depressed.

A DDE IS what DME or ECU is to bmw diesel cars...

hope that helps and anyone is free to correct where i might be wrong.....
the likes of dave and nick know better....

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by stuta

the clutch switch has 4 wires running to it.
no.1 wire is brown and should be connected to other ground wires underneath the dash
no.2 wire which should be blue runs to no. 18 on the ECU/DME
no.3 wire which is a bit greenish or so... goes to number 3 on CAS
no.4 wire goes to no.41 on CAS

there is no connector at no.3 position on CAS but you can pull off one from old harness and plug it in there

i think there is already a wire running to position 41 and here you simply bridge the wire from clutch switch on to the wire already on CAS and cover it up with insulation tape.

once this is done you should be able to start car with both brake and clutch depressed.

A DDE IS what DME or ECU is to bmw diesel cars...

hope that helps and anyone is free to correct where i might be wrong.....
the likes of dave and nick know better....

Originally Posted by stuta

the clutch switch has 4 wires running to it.
no.1 wire is brown and should be connected to other ground wires underneath the dash
no.2 wire which should be blue runs to no. 18 on the ECU/DME
no.3 wire which is a bit greenish or so... goes to number 3 on CAS
no.4 wire goes to no.41 on CAS

there is no connector at no.3 position on CAS but you can pull off one from old harness and plug it in there

i think there is already a wire running to position 41 and here you simply bridge the wire from clutch switch on to the wire already on CAS and cover it up with insulation tape.

once this is done you should be able to start car with both brake and clutch depressed.

A DDE IS what DME or ECU is to bmw diesel cars...

hope that helps and anyone is free to correct where i might be wrong.....
the likes of dave and nick know better....

Perfect

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Also, does anyone know. Is the awd gear selector assembly different from the rwd? And is the N54 different from the n55? I found one from a 335xi but it's a n55.

Anyone? Found one for a good price but want to make sure an n55 with fit on n54

Also!! Lol.... so I was looking at the harness I got for the manual. The one I got from the donor is from a rwd. I have awd. I figured it wouldn't matter. I could be right. I could be wrong. I don't know. But I was comparing them and say these. Anyone know what these plugs go to? This is the one on my car now. The black and blue plug.

[stuta]

Originally Posted by RS DAVE

The guy in france solved these small issue's we sent my dde configeration file to him he sent 1 back that was standard map, i had my car mapped to 360hp, i was there when it was mappedi it was a fucking missile, he said the file i sent him was 100% stock and my car hadn't been mapped. i think he just sent a standard file back to me and didn't read my file, there is another guy who gave me his contact he did the same to him. if you want his name i'll send you a pm. don't tell you spoke to me i'm not his favourite person.

since i am using a manual lockset....(dde, cas and key) i took the car to a friend who has a work shop and he cleared the dsc and abs lights for me using autotel.

all he had to to was change the VO so that the vin on the dde, cas, frm and abs module all correspond.

[stuta]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Also, does anyone know. Is the awd gear selector assembly different from the rwd? And is the N54 different from the n55? I found one from a 335xi but it’s a n55.

am not really sure but if the transmissions differ in length and so falls...the shifter cable will likely be longer or shorter as well. u mentioned wiring harness in another post. you are better off using the cars original harness so that you dont risk anything. and there should be a difference in rwd and awd...

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by stuta

am not really sure but if the transmissions differ in length and so falls...the shifter cable will likely be longer or shorter as well. u mentioned wiring harness in another post. you are better off using the cars original harness so that you dont risk anything. and there should be a difference in rwd and awd...

The wiring harness is the same p/n for awd and rwd according to real oem.

[Wrecker 426]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Anyone? Found one for a good price but want to make sure an n55 with fit on n54

Also!! Lol.... so I was looking at the harness I got for the manual. The one I got from the donor is from a rwd. I have awd. I figured it wouldn't matter. I could be right. I could be wrong. I don't know. But I was comparing them and say these. Anyone know what these plugs go to? This is the one on my car now. The black and blue plug.

Any idea with the black and blue plug? I have run into the same problem

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by Wrecker 426

Any idea with the black and blue plug? I have run into the same problem

I can't figure it out either man. Although I've gone onto real oem. And they are showing the same harness part number for a manual awd and manual rwd. My only guess is the black and blue have something to do with the automatic system and not the awd system. I would try it myself but Iv put my swap on hold till my auto blows up. If I were you I would say screw it and send it. If it's the awd system you'll get errors and you swap back in the other harness. If no errors real oem was right and your good to go.

[rich_mane]

If I remember correctly, those black and blue plugs are part of the auto trans harness. They have CAN bus lines that need to be cut and reconnected since there's no more auto trans to close the CAN bus circuit.

When I did my manual swap, I kept the original harness since there's really no difference other than the auto trans connection. All I did was cut the CAN wires from the body side of those connections and reconnect them with butt connectors to close the CAN bus.

[CeeWhizzle]

Originally Posted by rich_mane

If I remember correctly, those black and blue plugs are part of the auto trans harness. They have CAN bus lines that need to be cut and reconnected since there's no more auto trans to close the CAN bus circuit.

When I did my manual swap, I kept the original harness since there's really no difference other than the auto trans connection. All I did was cut the CAN wires from the body side of those connections and reconnect them with butt connectors to close the CAN bus.

Correct. And the CAN Bus wires are the ones that are twisted together. You need to either create your own way of looping them with the plug or simply snip the wires and connect each of the 2 twisted pairs together to close the loop. The other wires can simply be tucked away or forgotten about.

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by CeeWhizzle

Correct. And the CAN Bus wires are the ones that are twisted together. You need to either create your own way of looping them with the plug or simply snip the wires and connect each of the 2 twisted pairs together to close the loop. The other wires can simply be tucked away or forgotten about.

So use auto harness. Loop can bus wires. What about reverse switch? Is it the same two wires going to the auto? Just snip off connector and attach manual one?

[rich_mane]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

So use auto harness. Loop can bus wires. What about reverse switch? Is it the same two wires going to the auto? Just snip off connector and attach manual one?

Pretty sure I added a wire to the FRM for the reverse switch. I used some wire from another spare harness that was laying around, pulled the pin out and put that into the FRM connector. Then grounded the switch somewhere near the transmission.

[Wrecker 426]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

So use auto harness. Loop can bus wires. What about reverse switch? Is it the same two wires going to the auto? Just snip off connector and attach manual one?

Literally cut and spin the two together?