[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Andrew@FixMyVW

That does look like you have an issue, is that a new vacuum solenoid? I think you should T in a mityvac to the vacuum solenoid supply side and see if you vacuum supply diminishes as time goes on. Monitor you max vacuum. If you have 2 mityvacs I would love to see supply and outgoing at the same time.

Semi unrelated...Did you mechanic make 100% sure to keep the stock actuator length?

So what you are saying is put the vacuum tester after the selenoid but before the actuator? and check my vacuum pressure? and watch to see if it continues to hit the same numbers? Makes sense... Though I think they tested this...but Ill do it again I guess. Im not clear on where you want to put the 2nd one though.

As for the actuator length, I assume you are asking about how long they set the rod for. From what they told me, they did some testing to set it at the fully closed while the actuator was fully back. So Im not sure they put it at stock...and im quite sure they didnt put it at 21 (or whatever) threads that Jess said to put it at....but they were pretty confident that where its at is correct. Now that said....if the damn actuator isnt fully getting opened, doesnt matter where its set....

Is there anyone out there that can run this same test and video it so we can see what its supposed to do? Also, what are those vac pressures supposed to stick at? Also, no it is NOT a new vacuum selenoid....stock one.

BTW, thanks for the response Andrew.

[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

So what you are saying is put the vacuum tester after the selenoid but before the actuator? and check my vacuum pressure? and watch to see if it continues to hit the same numbers? Makes sense... Though I think they tested this...but Ill do it again I guess. Im not clear on where you want to put the 2nd one though.

Not really but you can do that test too! I want you to see if the vacuum supply going to the solenoid stays constant or drops off the longer the car runs.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

As for the actuator length, I assume you are asking about how long they set the rod for. From what they told me, they did some testing to set it at the fully closed while the actuator was fully back. So Im not sure they put it at stock...and im quite sure they didnt put it at 21 (or whatever) threads that Jess said to put it at....but they were pretty confident that where its at is correct. Now that said....if the damn actuator isnt fully getting opened, doesnt matter where its set....

Is there anyone out there that can run this same test and video it so we can see what its supposed to do? Also, what are those vac pressures supposed to stick at? Also, no it is NOT a new vacuum selenoid....stock one.

From what I've seen on the few cars that I've worked on, the vacuum actuator is fully retracted at 5" hg. I don't know if 21 or 23 threads showing would work on all cars, I suspect it can vary a bit, here is the BMW guide for setting an actuator when replacing it, they don't count threads but that may be a valid method.
http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...cuum_pressure/

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by Andrew@FixMyVW

Not really but you can do that test too! I want you to see if the vacuum supply going to the solenoid stays constant or drops off the longer the car runs.



From what I've seen on the few cars that I've worked on, the vacuum actuator is fully retracted at 5" hg. I don't know if 21 or 23 threads showing would work on all cars, I suspect it can vary a bit, here is the BMW guide for setting an actuator when replacing it, they don't count threads but that may be a valid method.
http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...cuum_pressure/

Hi Andrew,

Wondering if you have observed what parameters within the DDE affect the turbine control? Several of us have noticed abnormalities in power delivery and are curious if the DDE uses this as a way to reduce power/torque depending on other inputs? Curious to learn how the DDE uses turbine control and if there are different maps for its operation and what regulates which maps get utilized?

Thank you.

[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Hi Andrew,

Wondering if you have observed what parameters within the DDE affect the turbine control? Several of us have noticed abnormalities in power delivery and are curious if the DDE uses this as a way to reduce power/torque depending on other inputs? Curious to learn how the DDE uses turbine control and if there are different maps for its operation and what regulates which maps get utilized?

Thank you.

That's a pretty intense question to answer and I know enough to know that I don't know enough to answer it completely. I feel like there is a lot of parameters that affect the performance but I'm lacking the logs and data to definitively say that the following affect spooling.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

What someone may think is a spooling could be something entirely different. (Interrupted, will finish later)

[Yozh]

Omaha, I do not have a 100% consensus until I do proper parameter logging to confirm, but DDE, at least in my case, was pulling power by keeping the turbine switchover at 2/3 most of the time. Cause was a fried MAF. For you, you need to approach this from a multiangle and diagnose every part of the system to see where you are.

[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Originally Posted by Andrew@FixMyVW

What someone may think is a spooling could be something entirely different. (Interrupted, will finish later)

I had a feeling this was going on, I've been having issues with spooling also, intermittently, sometimes the car takes off like a bat out of hell and others it's like the small turbo isn't there. Check this out, I had 2 like this and NO CODES

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Omaha, I do not have a 100% consensus until I do proper parameter logging to confirm, but DDE, at least in my case, was pulling power by keeping the turbine switchover at 2/3 most of the time. Cause was a fried MAF. For you, you need to approach this from a multiangle and diagnose every part of the system to see where you are.

Thanks for the reply Yozh
So if I understand what you are saying, you have figured out your problem and you feel like you have full power and quick boost at the low RPMs.

After seeing my test video, I assume that you agree that there may be either a vacuum issue or a selenoid issue?

How would you suggest going about testing for the fried MAF? Or did you just throw parts at it and finally find the issue?

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Thanks for the reply Yozh
So if I understand what you are saying, you have figured out your problem and you feel like you have full power and quick boost at the low RPMs.

After seeing my test video, I assume that you agree that there may be either a vacuum issue or a selenoid issue?

How would you suggest going about testing for the fried MAF? Or did you just throw parts at it and finally find the issue?

Lee, I think you are lucky. By that I mean that I think you know where to look at for your problems. I'm no expert, but in your case I think it's the turbine switchover side, at least to start at.

I have done an exactly the same test in Rheingold before and mine definitely was moving fast in the contraction and slower on the release. Comparatively, yours does not move at all. I just saw your video, could not do it before.

As Andrew has pointed out, you need to eliminate some of the variables and need to do it by monitoring the actual values. Chances are high that in the Rheingold test, the DDE commands the standard values for the test. Electrical is probably ok, unless your connectors are damaged. Then, you need to eliminate the possibility of a bad pressure converter. Fit a new or swap with the wastegate one. Test. Then, you need to look at the whole vaccum system and make sure there are no leaks. But start by what Andrew has suggested and tee-in an connection for the mityvac and see what your values are after the pressure converter and before as well the system vaccum after the vacuum accumulator and before, you need to do a few tests. Start there first, then you can start looking at the vacuuum pump and it's one way valve. Brake booster one way valve and the rest of the vacuum system. Can you move the turbine switchover valve itself by hand, throughout the whole range of motion? Should be. Anyway, I would take the video of the whole test for you too, but I'm Germany for work. Driving a boat of a MB GLE350d that has a hard time getting to 200kph on the freeway. Really wanted a M550d, but they did not have one

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

How would you suggest going about testing for the fried MAF? Or did you just throw parts at it and finally find the issue?

I have tested side by side with another 335d, that brought me to the commanded turbine switchover control by DDE. I knew something in the sensor world was wonky. Then I started to monitor the parameters for the MAF and then was lucky to get an SES for the intake temp value. Then I saw -20C instead of +30C and when intermittently MAF would come back online, it's like someone smashed the brakes. Weird backwards behaviour. Fitted a new "used" MAF reset the adaptations and so far so good.

In your case, you should start what was suggested by Andrew and I. Don't jump to MAF just yet.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I have tested side by side with another 335d, that brought me to the commanded turbine switchover control by DDE. I knew something in the sensor world was wonky. Then I started to monitor the parameters for the MAF and then was lucky to get an SES for the intake temp value. Then I saw -20C instead of +30C and when intermittently MAF would come back online, it's like someone smashed the brakes. Weird backwards behaviour. Fitted a new "used" MAF reset the adaptations and so far so good.

In your case, you should start what was suggested by Andrew and I. Don't jump to MAF just yet.

I thought I read in one of these posts that if I suspected the MAF, I should disconnect it and see what it does....but I havent found where i read that. Can Yozh or anyone else give me a clue as to what i should expect it to do with the MAF unplugged..... Or how that could give me any sort of diagnostic info..... Or did I just imagine that?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Then, you need to eliminate the possibility of a bad pressure converter. Fit a new or swap with the wastegate one. Test.

I still havent gotten to this yet, because its a bit overwhelming and I dont really have another car to drive if I dont find the culprit...

I have a question though....If I swap the pressure converter with the wastegate one, wont I just end up with the exact same issue? The wastegate will be open most of the time vs the change over flap being ineffective...thus giving me underboost condition again.

Granted...that underboost condition "should" be all over...instead of just at the low rpm range....

Now that I have my SCR gutted, Im VERY confident my issue is in the change over area. While driving on the interstate as soon as the car shifts into 6th and drops to 1600 rpm....I have zero power and it smokes and throws codes, I downshift and its fine again.....and Im almost feeling like its a vacuum issue....as when I start my car in the morning....it takes a little driving before I have ANY go at all....

[Yozh]

Codes?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Codes?

Same...4530....pretty much it..

[OmahaDZL]

may have found the culprit....

[Yozh]

Definitely replace it. They are not expensive, cheapest at Husker BMW or bmwdirectparts.com as they are now.

This also means that someone before you were messing around there. I would be checking everything very carefully.

[BB_cuda]

is that the infamous pressure converter shown in post 102?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

is that the infamous pressure converter shown in post 102?

Nope...(Im actually holding it with my legs) its the goddamn vacuum reservoir that is on the end of that bracket.

I went back to my mechanic and asked them how the hell they missed this given that I told them that I was very confident it was the vacuum on the changeover valve.......first they said they completely forgot about it,...then they fessed up to doing it....

I dont know for sure if they broke it, but Id be pretty surprised if they didnt somehow...esp cuz they never mentioned they ran into a problem with the vacuum rez. They just "fixed it" and didnt tell me.

Not very happy. Got a new one today from Husker....150ish....putting it in tonight, hopefully i route all the vacuum lines correctly. And hopefully when I do...this sucker runs like its supposed to....terrifyingly fast.

EDIT: Vacuum reservoir/bracket is about 40 bucks....... 150 was for the incorrect part...part guy got confused.... 150 was for the vacuum actuator.

[OmahaDZL]

I didnt drive to Lincoln, I had someone pick up the part for me...and the box was sealed anyway....So tonight I got the new part....opened the box only to find that they sent the Vacuum actuator and not the vacuum reservoir... sweet...now I may be screwed for the entire weekend as well...

BUT....I decided I wouldnt sit on my hands...I tore that little brass thing out of there with the intent of jb welding it in...and moving forward with this thing as soon as possible...maybe not buying the new one at all. After pulling it I found that it was 98% blocked with epoxy....yes thats right...their "fix" was also effed...in two completely different ways... So I went and got some new connectors...jbwelded it in place and went to put the stuff in...

Got to the part where I connect the vacuum lines up and reached to the back to hook up those two hoses on the bottom/back (number 4 in post 1) Only to find that the nipple was snapped off that one too.... I cant 100% say that I didnt do that....i may have... just another thing to replace in this cluster...

[kydiesel35]

Wow that sucks.

Yeah these parts may become extremely brittle after some time and snap with ease. Sounds like they have your vac system all jacked up. Anyways, looks like you should be up and running soon, congrats.

[Mark M]

Omaha, glad to hear you're getting to the bottom of it. Moral of the story as always, if you want it done right do it yourself.

I had that same nipple break off on my rez. I think Yozh did too. It's a weak spot. I did the same fix, drilled and epoxied a metal fitting in. But it sounds like I was more careful than your mechanic.

Good luck bud. When done do the trans/ throttle adaptions reset using the gas pedal for 30 seconds trick. It makes a real difference.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Omaha, glad to hear you're getting to the bottom of it. Moral of the story as always, if you want it done right do it yourself.

I had that same nipple break off on my rez. I think Yozh did too. It's a weak spot. I did the same fix, drilled and epoxied a metal fitting in. But it sounds like I was more careful than your mechanic.

Good luck bud. When done do the trans/ throttle adaptions reset using the gas pedal for 30 seconds trick. It makes a real difference.

Well thats good to know that my mechanic wasnt a complete dolt...its a verified weak spot...

But what are you talking about with the gas pedal trick...and trans/throttle adaptation reset? I know nothing of this.

Also....BMW is expediting shipping for free and will have the part tomorrow morning for me to pick up and put my car back together this weekend....hopefully I dont snap anything else off

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

But what are you talking about with the gas pedal trick...and trans/throttle adaptation reset? I know nothing of this.

A forum member named Diesel racer had posted this but I can't seem to locate it right now. I noticed a little difference but not a OMG difference. The effect goes away with time. Its a procedure to reset throttle adaptations. I'll keep looking but bet somebody here will dig it up quickly.