[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by rulonger

A bit envious of 9mmkungfu - I am going to do the delete but would sure like to have some experienced hands and eyes nearby when I start taking my car apart.

I guess I will need to plan a road trip to the northern parts or I could provide an all expense paid vacation to SC for a few guys to come assist on my car.

Tempting! I could do with some SC weather right now. Invite me to an M performance driving school and I'm in ;-).
But seriously, don't worry this task is pretty straight forward. Take your time and post or PM me if you have problems.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

I had tried this method multiple times without success. I like to flush the filter for a bit before installing it back into the system, so I push ~1 gallon through it into a container first. Trying to use the ignition method never resulted in any fuel getting pushed through. I had to use the Bav Tech tool to initiate the pump to get any fuel pushed through. Also used it to prime the rail after putting the filter fully back in. Results in a normal startup without excess cranking.

Anyone know if the BMWhat app will do this as well?

TDI, you're correct. The fuel pump does not activate with ignition on. Very strange that they describe it like that in the service manual.
However, I did find out how to activate the fuel pump with EDIABAS. The fuel pump has it's own control module, so you have to load EKP360.prg. In order to activate the pump, select the job "steuern_vorgeben" and enter 60 into the arguments field. Then double click the job. You will be able to hear the pump. In order to stop the fuel pump double click the job "steuern_ret_contr_to_ecu".

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

TDI, you're correct. The fuel pump does not activate with ignition on. Very strange that they describe it like that in the service manual.
However, I did find out how to activate the fuel pump with EDIABAS. The fuel pump has it's own control module, so you have to load EKP360.prg. In order to activate the pump, select the job "steuern_vorgeben" and enter 60 into the arguments field. Then double click the job. You will be able to hear the pump. In order to stop the fuel pump double click the job "steuern_ret_contr_to_ecu".

Mik325tds, you rule. Your CBU post, your DPF delete post, and now helping out with the fuel pump activation.

Thanks!

[DWR]

Mik325tds, thanks so much. This was driving me crazy.
Want to try your hand at the transmission reflash?

[DWR]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

TDI, you're correct. The fuel pump does not activate with ignition on. Very strange that they describe it like that in the service manual.
However, I did find out how to activate the fuel pump with EDIABAS. The fuel pump has it's own control module, so you have to load EKP360.prg. In order to activate the pump, select the job "steuern_vorgeben" and enter 60 into the arguments field. Then double click the job. You will be able to hear the pump. In order to stop the fuel pump double click the job "steuern_ret_contr_to_ecu".

Just curious, what does the 60 represent?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by DWR

Just curious, what does the 60 represent?

The unit is liter/h. Rheingold has two presets (60 l/h and 120 l/h) which I assume is 50% and 100%.

[TDIwyse]

Thanks for the update. It's always a little unnerving to me when the service manual's are wrong...

[335ddd]

few quick questions

After DP install ( DPF delete )+ Jarek tune, are there any side effects such as SCR clogging later down the road since DPF incinerator is gone. I vaguely remember a post saying soot still accumulates in small amounts and some point might create a problem. Or does the full Jarek tune EGR/DPF/SCR somehow takes care of that? meaning this issue is just for people with a different tune for DPF only if there is such a thing?

with Jarek's tune does the DEF fluid get used at all? is it shutdown completely or simply once all fluid is used up car continues to works with error messages disabled? this is important for me because i flash it back to stock, i would know if i need to refill or not the DEF fluid.

thank you guys

[DWR]

Originally Posted by 335ddd

few quick questions

After DP install ( DPF delete )+ Jarek tune, are there any side effects such as SCR clogging later down the road since DPF incinerator is gone. I vaguely remember a post saying soot still accumulates in small amounts and some point might create a problem. Or does the full Jarek tune EGR/DPF/SCR somehow takes care of that? meaning this issue is just for people with a different tune for DPF only if there is such a thing?

with Jarek's tune does the DEF fluid get used at all? is it shutdown completely or simply once all fluid is used up car continues to works with error messages disabled? this is important for me because i flash it back to stock, i would know if i need to refill or not the DEF fluid.

thank you guys

Haha, I count 6 quick questions! But could be involved answers. I'll try to give quick answers:

- Evidence says SCR will become restricted.
- In the strictest sense, it will happen regardless of tune. It is just a question of when.
- Flashing back to stock with DP has issues that should be obvious. Seems like something is missing in the description of that scenario?
- SCR, fluid drain procedure already described quite well here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1089933&page=3

[BB_cuda]

Several of these questions are addressed in Jarek's thread he started late last year. The SCR loading up isn't discussed there though. I've experienced less smoke with Jarek's tune but agree if will only slow down the eventual clogging

[335ddd]

Originally Posted by DWR

Haha, I count 6 quick questions! But could be involved answers. I'll try to give quick answers:

- Evidence says SCR will become restricted.
- In the strictest sense, it will happen regardless of tune. It is just a question of when.
- Flashing back to stock with DP has issues that should be obvious. Seems like something is missing in the description of that scenario?
- SCR, fluid drain procedure already described quite well here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1089933&page=3

thank you for a quick response

so SCR & urea tanks get completely disabled. Meaning no spraying of urea into SCR. no fluid transfer between passive / active tanks.

1. reverting to stock flash will require first to refill urea since car will get disabled right away on empty tank, correct?

2. any chance for an empty passive / active tanks and its hardware (hoses, injectors) drying out and causing more damage if later reverting back to stock. Its known that SCR / urea injector gets clogged up in a stock form. Hence my assumption is unless spray injector is taken out an separately cleaned after the draining, whatever fluid residue is left will eventually crystallize requiring add'l $$$ or cleaning if reverting back to stock.

[335ddd]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Several of these questions are addressed in Jarek's thread he started late last year. The SCR loading up isn't discussed there though. I've experienced less smoke with Jarek's tune but agree if will only slow down the eventual clogging

thank you again, the more I read the more I am inclined to go for
"stage 1 or 2 + SpiderBoot" and just keep my DPF to prevent SCR issues.

but can SCR be cleaned somehow?

when considering the cost of new SCR vs 335d full straight exhaust maybe thats the way to go to avoid all problems. DP + exhaust + Jarek tune = hail mary

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by 335ddd

thank you again, the more I read the more I am inclined to go for
"stage 1 or 2 + SpiderBoot" and just keep my DPF to prevent SCR issues.

but can SCR be cleaned somehow?

when considering the cost of new SCR vs 335d full straight exhaust maybe thats the way to go to avoid all problems. DP + exhaust + Jarek tune = hail mary

As I understand it, an EGR block off will effectively eliminate future CBU (the reason people have undertaken this task) but also creates more exhaust soot (not getting burned up in the EGR cycle). Me thinks that you have to go all or nothing - all being EGR block, install DP in place of DPF and sooner or later gut the cat associated with the SCR. The tune can also code these systems out to avoid SES lights.

I guess you could get a tune and leave everything intact, but you would still have the possibility of CBU down the road.

[335ddd]

Originally Posted by rulonger

As I understand it, an EGR block off will effectively eliminate future CBU (the reason people have undertaken this task) but also creates more exhaust soot (not getting burned up in the EGR cycle). Me thinks that you have to go all or nothing - all being EGR block, install DP in place of DPF and sooner or later gut the cat associated with the SCR. The tune can also code these systems out to avoid SES lights.

I guess you could get a tune and leave everything intact, but you would still have the possibility of CBU down the road.

with EGR blocked, more soot makes makes sense. But Jarek's tune without DP leaves DPF working. So i would simply expect more frequent regens as incinerator gets fuller quicker. unless i am misunderstanding the flow.

on another note, been meaning to ask bmwhat app developer to add programming to track diesel fuel quality. with all the gas stations around apparently there are parameters which can be monitored as far as diesel fuel goes. i think its low / medium / high . better diesel quality less soot i hope

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by 335ddd

with EGR blocked, more soot makes makes sense. But Jarek's tune without DP leaves DPF working. So i would simply expect more frequent regens as incinerator gets fuller quicker. unless i am misunderstanding the flow.

on another note, been meaning to ask bmwhat app developer to add programming to track diesel fuel quality. with all the gas stations around apparently there are parameters which can be monitored as far as diesel fuel goes. i think its low / medium / high . better diesel quality less soot i hope

So you are not planning on blocking off the EGR?

[335ddd]

Originally Posted by rulonger

So you are not planning on blocking off the EGR?

i am. i already have those plates. waiting on CBU CEL in order to do the cleaning first.
hopefully by then Jarek will have the remote flashing figured out. I am not sure he offers EGR coding for regular stg1/2 (no DP) so i will just have to live with CEL or clear it every time.

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

TDI, you're correct. The fuel pump does not activate with ignition on. Very strange that they describe it like that in the service manual.
However, I did find out how to activate the fuel pump with EDIABAS. The fuel pump has it's own control module, so you have to load EKP360.prg. In order to activate the pump, select the job "steuern_vorgeben" and enter 60 into the arguments field. Then double click the job. You will be able to hear the pump. In order to stop the fuel pump double click the job "steuern_ret_contr_to_ecu".

Just wanted to let you know that after installing a new fuel filter I ran the job steuern_vorgeben with argument 60 twice. Heard tons of air (sounded like car had bad Mexican food) with running job first time, and wanted to be certain that all air was purged. Car started right away.

[Mik325tds]

Excellent. Good to hear it worked .

[Persian Whisperjet]

Car is back together running great and throwing nary a code.

A day after completing the alphabet soup delete, two general observations.

First, what a great team we have going here, with Jess and Jarek and all the excellent folks on the board – Mik, TDI, Gunsmyth, Greek, BBCuda, moose, Hooper and many more -- several of whom, especially Mik and gunsmyth, spent hours on the phone coaching me.

The second observation is I am really glad I partnered with an experienced mechanic with a lift since I never would have gotten that torx bold out of the middle of the motor mount on my own, and he even struggled with it a bit.

Third observation (OK I added one): I am in awe of anyone who did this on jack stands.

A few specifics to add to the body of knowledge:

ECU removal and replacement: Spent some time on Youtube trying to figure out how to get the top off the box with the ECU. Basically there are black plastic clasps at the top and bottom of the lid that act as pincers and have to be released from below. Also, the cool wiring harness connectors that connect the wiring harness to the car have this neat lever that ejects them from the ECU. When reassembling, you need to make sure the lever goes all the way down before it goes all the way back up. Someone probably covered this in a post, but it took me a minute to figure out. Like most of the wiring attachment systems in the e90 this one was designed by the demented offspring of the Marquis de Sade and Franz Kafka. Wait, those are both guys, but you get my drift. Each connector is different, but they all yield to patient tinkering.

ECUs and Canada: Fedex was easier to deal with than UPS. Jarek’s assistant Justyna was a big help dealing with the customs issues.

Removing underbody panels: Straightforward but two of the screws holding up the underbody panels toward the center of the car are tamper-resistant torx with a pin at the center (see photo). Fortunately, Mik warned me about this and my boss had loaned me his fancy German torx socket set.

Motor mount: Had a real fight on my hands with this especially the sunken middle bolt. The mechanic who guided me in the process had a neat way to support the engine that allowed us to move the car up and down on the lift, see photo. Definitely made the process easier e.g., when the car is on the lift and you realize you still need to loosen the V-band, from above.

Disconnecting the sensors: Those fancy Snap-on wrenches and sockets really come in handy here. The sensor right by the exhaust flange with the red hose runs all the way back under the car to the fuel filter area (photos) but it is easy to get to with the car up on a lift. Just undo the subsystem and your fuel filter will be easier to get at next time.

DP fit: The DP came in from Albany looking pretty nice. A number of friends commented on the quality of the welds. Early issues re bung depth appear to have been resolved and the EGT and O2 sensors went in fine and seated fine. As with Mik the bracket was about a quarter inch off, so I drilled a new hole (photo). That stainless stuff is hard! Vibrant gasket was a perfect fit and replaced the swirl mixer plate thing (gasket is $6.50 on amazon, search for “Vibrant 1458 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket”).

Flushing the urea tanks: See photo. Very easy to get access with the car on a lift, just a bunch of 8 mm screws. Removing the caps on the drain tubes (photo) requires pushing in on the wide, skinny button while pulling downward at the same time. To replace just pop them back on. Drain times are considerable. It probably took 30 minutes to drain a couple of gallons.

[Persian Whisperjet]

These screws are plastic and could probably be removed with vice grips.

[Persian Whisperjet]

In the future everyone will have one of these.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Tight quarters dealing with the engine mount/bracket