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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > High Pressure Fuel Pump (hpfp) DIY



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      08-30-2020, 01:53 PM   #89
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ok that bottom nipple circled blue is where my hard fuel line connects, the yellow is where this yellow line used to connect, I'm confused as to where another nipple would be?

I also noticed part of the installation video where this guy has a buddy come in and use some tool to keep the motor from turning while he torques the pump nut to 50lbs, nobody seems to talk about that in the chat so wondering if I need that adapter with the four nobs on it and what its called (2nd pic). Thanks


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Originally Posted by RL18 View Post
The bottom nipple is where it goes
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      08-30-2020, 04:28 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com View Post
ok that bottom nipple circled blue is where my hard fuel line connects, the yellow is where this yellow line used to connect, I'm confused as to where another nipple would be?

I also noticed part of the installation video where this guy has a buddy come in and use some tool to keep the motor from turning while he torques the pump nut to 50lbs, nobody seems to talk about that in the chat so wondering if I need that adapter with the four nobs on it and what its called (2nd pic). Thanks
The blue circle. I did mention you'd need that special tool too
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      08-31-2020, 10:13 AM   #91
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I think I'm using the wrong terms, the blue circle is still where the high pressure line connects as far as I know. The yellow is the topic of discussion whether that return line still connects there and if it does, this pump seems to be identical to the one I took out, so confused where/if there was a change. Thanks


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The blue circle. I did mention you'd need that special tool too
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      08-31-2020, 01:07 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com View Post
I think I'm using the wrong terms, the blue circle is still where the high pressure line connects as far as I know. The yellow is the topic of discussion whether that return line still connects there and if it does, this pump seems to be identical to the one I took out, so confused where/if there was a change. Thanks
The only change to anything is how the yellow line attaches to the new pump. Remove the yellow line to where it tees, use 3/8 fuel line and a few clamps to mate up to the new connection type on the pump. Everything else is exactly the same.
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      09-07-2020, 12:04 PM   #93
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So the pump is on after waiting for Pelican to ship one 13mm nut that I dropped and couldn't find! Seems to me like it doesnt sit totally flush, all three nuts are torqued to yield so does this seem like an ok gap or might it get closer after I put the 21 mm nut on the front of the engine to lock it down? Thanks!

Also all fuel and pressure lines are the same hookups from the original pump layout as far as I can tell, maybe its because I have a 2009?
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      09-07-2020, 03:34 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com View Post
So the pump is on after waiting for Pelican to ship one 13mm nut that I dropped and couldn't find! Seems to me like it doesnt sit totally flush, all three nuts are torqued to yield so does this seem like an ok gap or might it get closer after I put the 21 mm nut on the front of the engine to lock it down? Thanks!

Also all fuel and pressure lines are the same hookups from the original pump layout as far as I can tell, maybe its because I have a 2009?
Yes my gap was the same
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      09-13-2020, 09:17 AM   #95
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Thanks thats reassuring. Getting the intake back on today and after I find some coolant to replace the gallons I spilled out on the floor but pulling off the tstat hose, I'll be ready to prime this system and give it a shot.

One thing I've seen is a lot of back and forth about using the laptop programs to prime the diesel, but the end of the Newtis says to just put it in Ignition On for one minute to bleed the system. Any thoughts there?


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Yes my gap was the same
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      09-21-2020, 10:47 AM   #96
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So my ignorance has left me with a new fuel pump installed, using my old banjo connection in the spot that I thought it would work on the new pump. Tested last night and it is dripping out fuel slowly when engine is running, I can't tell from where yet but assuming it is the return that I tried to utilize the old banjo connection after removing their black plastic cap is it was shipped to me and utilized banjo in that round, recessed hole.

So I have the hard pressure line connected via "special tool" at the bottom of the pump as circled in post above, the black supply line with the screw clamp, and this yellow plastic line with the banjo connection. I still dont see another nipple where it could go on the back of the new HPFP (BOSCH 0445010194 {#13517804409}) . So really looking for some help here to figure out where I've gone wrong. Thanks!

Pics are dirty old fuel pump and new one again, one pic with banjo about to be installed after removing black plastic hex cap.


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Originally Posted by RL18 View Post
The only change to anything is how the yellow line attaches to the new pump. Remove the yellow line to where it tees, use 3/8 fuel line and a few clamps to mate up to the new connection type on the pump. Everything else is exactly the same.
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      09-21-2020, 12:15 PM   #97
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Okay lets take one huge step back. First off I'm assuming from looking at the new pump in the pic that the new pump is the r90 pump (upgraded pump) the old pump is the stock pump aka r70 pump. So if you have the r90 pump follow this: I put some marking on your pump pictures. So lets look at the old pump you have...

The white marking is the hp side connection going to the fuel rail.

The blue is the return line connection.

The red is the supply line connection.

Now On the new pump...

The white marked connection is the same

The red marked line is the same

The BLUE line is the banjo bolt connection. This banjo bolt won't connect to the new fitting provided on the new style r90 pump. So you follow that line till you find where it "tees" off, at that tee you pull that yellow plastic line completely off. You then take your new 3/8 fuel line, put your clamp on, push it onto that tee and tighten the clamp. Then you go to the pump and push the hose onto the blue marked fitting (the new pump picture) and tighten the clamp. Now you are completely connected
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      09-21-2020, 04:10 PM   #98
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Yes thanks your blue circle is where my high pressure hard line (#6) in diagram connects to the fuel rail though, its not an extra nipple, thats where I'm stuck.

Your white circles on both pumps, I've never had anything connected there in either old or new. Maybe thats where I'm dripping out in the new scenario? I did not check that black nut when I installed to see if its closed, maybe its an open port?

Come to think of it, there was an oddly broken or disconnected 1/4" or so hose/line under the old pump that was soaked. I didnt think much of it but maybe attaches to your white circle and recently broke off and caused me to think pump went out? I'll attach a pic that is the best one I have of it under the old pump.

I'm not sure which version of this model of pump it is but I can find out. I plan on taking my banjo fitting off tonight and looking to see if there is even a hole in there as I don't recall there being one like there is in the old pump.

Thanks
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      09-28-2020, 09:38 PM   #99
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Can you please take a picture of the back of the "new" pump?
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      10-02-2020, 05:27 PM   #100
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I don't have one before it went in and can't really take a quality one now. I have realized that I have no washers on the banjo fitting connection so have been waiting on new hollow bolt and washers to install this weekend, likely will solve my leak that appeared to come from that return connection. I didn't realize that it wanted a washer on both sides of that banjo bolt.




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Can you please take a picture of the back of the "new" pump?
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      10-03-2020, 10:47 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com View Post
I don't have one before it went in and can't really take a quality one now. I have realized that I have no washers on the banjo fitting connection so have been waiting on new hollow bolt and washers to install this weekend, likely will solve my leak that appeared to come from that return connection. I didn't realize that it wanted a washer on both sides of that banjo bolt.
ok, because I was going to help letting you know if it was a r70 or r90 pump and about the banjo.

fuel feed line from tank goes to nipple.

Banjo is the return line back to tank and from fuel return line (back of rail).

Your pump pictured is the r70 with the protective fitting on the banjo.

R90 pump does not come with banjo. In lieu of the banjo, the r90 comes with a nipple instead.
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      10-07-2020, 10:13 AM   #102
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Thanks, got it all changed out and was just missing a washer on the underside of the banjo so got that in now and no leaks.

Still had a hard start this morning at 70 degrees, probably 3-4 seconds of cranking. No codes, any ideas?

It must be losing prime somewhere?





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Originally Posted by Papogator24 View Post
ok, because I was going to help letting you know if it was a r70 or r90 pump and about the banjo.

fuel feed line from tank goes to nipple.

Banjo is the return line back to tank and from fuel return line (back of rail).

Your pump pictured is the r70 with the protective fitting on the banjo.

R90 pump does not come with banjo. In lieu of the banjo, the r90 comes with a nipple instead.
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      10-08-2020, 09:18 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com View Post
Thanks, got it all changed out and was just missing a washer on the underside of the banjo so got that in now and no leaks.

Still had a hard start this morning at 70 degrees, probably 3-4 seconds of cranking. No codes, any ideas?

It must be losing prime somewhere?
How long have you been driving it now with the pump? It could be the cold start, how old are the glow plugs?
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      10-10-2020, 08:42 PM   #104
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Finally took it over to Andrew at Tune My Euro, current thinking is LPFP sensor/sender is not responding. Is it possible to have been driving and hard starting without LPFP activating at all? Probably ruined the HPFP

I just inherited the car with almost no records so likely never changed glow plugs at 103k miles. No codes or CEL though


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Originally Posted by Papogator24 View Post
How long have you been driving it now with the pump? It could be the cold start, how old are the glow plugs?
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      11-22-2022, 07:54 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got-Torque View Post
Well, a little update on my car. Ended up finding injector #1 was bad. Replaced the injector early 2018. This was after replacing the LPFP, HPFP R90, and rail pressure sensor based on some advice from others.

I put a new battery in last week after it was completely dead. I assume this resets all the adaptations when it is dead? I started driving it to work. Boost is back to normal (max is upper 30's or so), pulls very hard and no codes so far. So that is good news.

I still have not been able to code my injector replacement and now need to register my new battery.

For the time being it seems to be ok. I'll keep driving it now that the roads are better and see if the problem is really gone.
Hey, I've been reading about all the problems you had and would like to know if you managed to figure what the solution to this problem is. I'm getting engine malfunction reduced power light as well and low fuel pressure code. I also have a zero-quantity adaptation cylinder 4 with smooth running controller code. However the injector codes were there even before the car started running extremely bad with reduced power.
It started running pretty bad after I put bad diesel inside, which I have now removed but car keeps going bad. Do you think the solution is just changing the battery or resetting adaptations. Don't really wanna change the hpfp and all those other parts and then they're not the cause of the problem as you found out.
Thanks
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      03-26-2024, 05:32 PM   #106
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anyone have a r90 fuel pump for the 335d? pm please
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