[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Drawn05

Any value in these for stock turbo guys? I remember peter fiddling with the stock outlets years ago in someone's car but not sure if it made power (I've been out of the game for a few years).

IMO I would stick with the OEM outlets with stock turbos. My reasoning behind this statement is that my car produced 383rwkw and did a 11.28s 1/4 with the OEM outlets. I haven't seen anyone produce any dyno charts of before and after results from just changing the outlets to prove that there is an increase in power. I could be wrong here and there maybe some out there somewhere but I haven't seen any.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

For anyone thinking of buying the RB EVO Style outlets, just remember that the OEM coolant expansion tank (RHD) cannot be used as the bottom hose outlet fouls with the silicon outlet. This is not a problem with the standard frame style outlets. One solution for this is to relocate the tank to the ODS of the engine bay by purchasing a 335D coolant expansion tank and power steering oil reservoir bracket. However, to do this, you will require a 335D style CP to clear the bottom hose outlet on the 335D expansion tank. (VRSF sell these). In my case, I already had a ER CP and Forge DVs which I didn't want to replace so I modified the RHD expansion tank which so far is working but long term reliability maybe an issue. I have just mentioned this so people realise there are additional costs involved apart from the cost of the EVO Style outlets. But if you are installing the Super RB EVO turbos, there is no choice but to use these and make them fit. An aluminium item which would be a smaller diameter and didn't foul the RHD coolant expansion tank would be ideal.

Agree 100%- all of this pertains ONLY to those installing Super RB EVO turbos and affiliated EVO outlets on a RHD vehicle. If you are NOT installing Super RB EVO turbos, then none of it applies, as the EVO style outlets are ONLY for the Super RB EVO Turbo lineup (ie. see picture). We will not even sell the RB EVO style outlets to anyone aside those running the Super RB EVO turbos, as they will not fit anything but that particular line of RB Turbos.

As a sidetone we may revise the Super RB EVO outlets such that there is no interference with the coolant reservoir whatsoever. Feedback of said interference has been hit or miss but it is worth taking another look to see what can be done to ensure it is not ever an issue (without relocating or reclocking the coolant reservoir)- ever.

Thanks,
Rob

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

IMO I would stick with the OEM outlets with stock turbos. My reasoning behind this statement is that my car produced 383rwkw and did a 11.28s 1/4 with the OEM outlets. I haven't seen anyone produce any dyno charts of before and after results from just changing the outlets to prove that there is an increase in power. I could be wrong here and there maybe some out there somewhere but I haven't seen any.

Its hard to quantify efficiency gains as power gains IMO. What it takes to really see what is happening in there is to do things no one is going to do, such as add instrumentation to the turbos to see the shaft speeds/backpressure reduction by allowing the turbos to breathe easier. Power gains otherwise are only going to be seen by those pushing the turbos to the absolute maximum, and said efficiency help will push that maximum higher. To summarize efficiency gains (ie. improving pressure drops by adding free flowing inlets/outlets, intercoolers, etc.) really just help the turbos work easier in every day life to meet pressure targets in the manifold, in other words they'll be working smarter and not harder.

In the above example we'd consider that the rear turbo was working quite hard to push through the plumbing on that rear outlet, but being that it was an upgraded unit was able to still turn out some good ET's. We've seen those Classic RB Turbos go 10.9-11.2sec ET's quite a bit over the years with LHD, while that 11.28sec ET is probably the best we have seen with Classic RB's with stock RHD outlets. RHD outlets are much inferior to LHD outlets, so we'd suggest them pending on the turbos equipped and/or the level of tuning done on your vehicle. It certainly would not be high up on the priority list, unless you are doing things to some extremes and/or demand utmost efficiency out of your setup.

It'll be very interesting to see what Coupes33 can pull out of this setup he is running now- many improvements have been made since his Classic RB's were strapped on. We expect he can improve by .4-.5sec when said and done as his driving seems to be very good.

Rob

[IDriveACamryNow]

I have an e88 vert so I don't want to push it as far as upgraded turbos. Rather I am looking at running fbo with E85 and leaving it at that - however I do want it to be the best stock arrangement it could be (within reason).

I'm at 90k km and turbos arent rattlely (not that I can hear) though if that changes I might consider new turbos

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

It'll be very interesting to see what Coupes33 can pull out of this setup he is running now- many improvements have been made since his Classic RB's were strapped on. We expect he can improve by .4-.5sec when said and done as his driving seems to be very good.

Rob

Rob, I had my car on a Dyno Dynamics dyno a month ago. The ambient temperature was 33C (92F) which isn't ideal. It developed 413rwkw (553rwhp). On a Dynojet dyno, it would be 12-15% higher just into the 600rwhp range.

[BimaExtremeRetro]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Here is what we have learned from this thread about the RB N54 EVO style RHD outlets: If you have your steering wheel tilted all of the way up- the steering shaft will come close to and/or rub the outlet. If you do not tilt the wheel all the way up or position it more straightforward, no issues. It is worth making it exceptionally clear however that these are the RB N54 EVO style RHD outlets (which are larger diameter), not the RB N54 standard frame style outlets (which are smaller diameter), meaning if you do not have our Super RB EVO generation of turbos (as the OP does) along with their affiliated RB EVO style RHD outlets then this thread in its entirety does not apply to you.

In short the fitment on the RB N54 Standard Frame High Flow RHD outlets is very good, if it were not we would have heard a ton of grief and we would not have distributors buying more and more across two continents.

Our product talk aside we do support an aluminum product as being superior when it comes to durability, longevity, etc. Fitment will be a bear, however, without making the setup numerous pieces and with each piece will require just another length of silicone for a coupler along with a couple clamps (and thus a couple more potential leak points). Ultimately it is going to be a difficult endeavor to do it most ideally, no matter how you look at it.

Thanks,
Rob

Rob,

Please man,

1. When installed to your specs in RHD - Does the standard frame style make any physical contact with any part of the vehicle which the original part does not without having to modify other parts, use cable ties and etc?

2. When installed to your specs in RHD with your turbos - Does the EVO style make any physical contact with any part of the vehicle which the original part does not. You sell this for a RHD with your turbos, what is your official solution to the current fitment?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Drawn05

I have an e88 vert so I don't want to push it as far as upgraded turbos. Rather I am looking at running fbo with E85 and leaving it at that - however I do want it to be the best stock arrangement it could be (within reason).

I'm at 90k km and turbos arent rattlely (not that I can hear) though if that changes I might consider new turbos

It's a rule of thumb that there is minimal restriction on outlets on stock frame turbos, the restriction is on the inlets,

IMO just stick with oem outlet and upgrade the inlets. FWIW even the inlets on stock turbos provide marginal gains (it's a fair bit of labour to install them) but they do help. The silicon inlets after a few years seem to get chewed out and look a tad tatty (theyre not as durable as oem) most guys with stock turbos dont bother as when its all said and done there are other better BFYB mods.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by hotsd

Rob,

Please man,

1. When installed to your specs in RHD - Does the standard frame style make any physical contact with any part of the vehicle which the original part does not without having to modify other parts, use cable ties and etc?

2. When installed to your specs in RHD with your turbos - Does the EVO style make any physical contact with any part of the vehicle which the original part does not. You sell this for a RHD with your turbos, what is your official solution to the current fitment?

Apparently you have never seen any pictures of these installed... figured this was common knowledge

To answer your question yes the RB RHD Silicone outlets (both styles) make contact with the chassis (by design). They are ideally affixed to the chassis, from behind the steering shaft route, as there is no room for ANYTHING other than to be pressed against the chassis. Although the forming of the silicone accomplishes this with some relative ease, we still actually encourage Zip tying them in place (we include very large Zip Ties) to the chassis rails such that they can not ever make contact with a constantly rotating steering shaft (ie. worse case scenario for any longevity). If this is not your cup of tea then the smashed OEM pipe is probably best suited for you, high flow plumbing is not for everyone.

Rob

[BimaExtremeRetro]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Apparently you have never seen any pictures of these installed... figured this was common knowledge

To answer your question yes the RB RHD Silicone outlets (both styles) make contact with the chassis (by design). They are ideally affixed to the chassis, from behind the steering shaft route, as there is no room for ANYTHING other than to be pressed against the chassis. Although the forming of the silicone accomplishes this with some relative ease, we still actually encourage Zip tying them in place (we include very large Zip Ties) to the chassis rails such that they can not ever make contact with a constantly rotating steering shaft (ie. worse case scenario for any longevity). If this is not your cup of tea then the smashed OEM pipe is probably best suited for you, high flow plumbing is not for everyone.

Rob

To be fair I've seen plenty of pictures, what i wanted to know was whether or not that was the actual intended final product or the usual "customer installed it wrong and we have never had a problem"

Im not interested in entering a debate with you, apparently you have enough of them on your hands and frankly I find it extremely unprofessional.

I guess the product you offer is better than nothing if someone believes the purpose it's supposed to serve. Personally I wouldn't pay the money since they are essentially bits of silicon which by design will certainly fail.

For an oem setup it's not difficult at all to remove and modify the oem pipe. Sure it's fidley however can be accomplished by anyone who can turn a spanner so to speak and at least the end result is an oem like product.

What our market really needs is oem quality no nonsense setups.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by hotsd

To be fair I've seen plenty of pictures, what i wanted to know was whether or not that was the actual intended final product or the usual "customer installed it wrong and we have never had a problem"

Im not interested in entering a debate with you, apparently you have enough of them on your hands and frankly I find it extremely unprofessional.

I guess the product you offer is better than nothing if someone believes the purpose it's supposed to serve. Personally I wouldn't pay the money since they are essentially bits of silicon which by design will certainly fail.

For an oem setup it's not difficult at all to remove and modify the oem pipe. Sure it's fidley however can be accomplished by anyone who can turn a spanner so to speak and at least the end result is an oem like product.

What our market really needs is oem quality no nonsense setups.

It has been over a decade and the market has brought you only this one option, you're welcome for bringing a RHD option to the table. Best of luck waiting for any others built to your liking to come, they may someday and that would be great but I wouldn't suggest holding your breath.

As for the "usual customer installed it wrong and we've never had a problem" comment: Although it is true we haven't had any real problems with this product to date... it's now very clear you have our comments crossed up with another vendor who actually has had a plethora of issues (see post #84).

Rob

[Brule]

I dont understand what the issue is with silicone outlets.

They fit easier than oem.
They allow turbos to have more flow.
Cheap upgrade.

Rb evo requires some work getting thge coolant tank to fit but thats nothing to do with the silicone out let.

Its a pipe that fits.

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Brule

I dont understand what the issue is with silicone outlets.

They fit easier than oem.
They allow turbos to have more flow.
Cheap upgrade.

Rb evo requires some work getting thge coolant tank to fit but thats nothing to do with the silicone out let.

Its a pipe that fits.

I've had no issues with mine, fitment was good and as specified.

I haven't got any dyno figures, but now with outlets and catless DPs the car def spools very quickly and has plenty of kick for stock turbos

It does still feel a little anaemic up high, but I'd be guessing that's starting to be the stock turbo's limit

IMHO the outlets for the stock frames are a good product and worth the money, noting that I'm no expert, just a satisfied customer

[T1M]

I think the amount of melted inlets/outlets or ones that have worn through from rubbing suggests one of the problems is proximity of a low melting point materials to hot exhaust components, and another is poor fitment.

There's no room in the bays with the silly tilted engines and complex piping runs and if people want to try and make big power with them (god knows why there's far better/easier platforms for making power) then vendors will make kits that allow that to happen. Longevity and robustness take a back seat to flow though, you can't have both. My power goals are very mild as a result, it's not the platform for trying to do much more than stock hardware tuned IMO.

[BimaExtremeRetro]

Definately nothing wrong with silicon parts. All I'm really interested in is the physical contact they make with anything. Ideally No physical contact means no chance of rubbing through. For example during engine convetsion its always a pain in the arse making sure nothing actually touches the chassis as the engineers who have to pass it are particularly anal about it. Of course that's not an issue on a stock car however the same theory applies, avoid any contact with anything. If for example I submitted a setup with pipework cable tied agains a chassis and a steering column when adjusted makes contact with pipes etc it would be a big fail. Of course if that's the only solution available for us, so be it, at least we know exactly the risk for certain.

[BimaExtremeRetro]

Originally Posted by T1M

I think the amount of melted inlets/outlets or ones that have worn through from rubbing suggests one of the problems is proximity of a low melting point materials to hot exhaust components, and another is poor fitment.

Very well said.
Now that's the kind of advice im sure to take and appreciate.
Cheers man.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Definitely well said- fitment along with distance (from the hot parts) was our approach during development. Unlike the other vendors selling outlets, we didnt simply ship out a stock pipe for a sample to reproduce in silicone. You guys can read more about that here:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showth...=33067&page=15

Obviously the LHD stuff certainly fits better. Unfortunately (as you all know) the RHD scenario complicates a lot and compromises must be made. We actually used the JD Carbon fiber adapter/TFT pathway concept for these outlets, and there really is only way to get through the zone and that is by touching the chassis rail.

At the end of the day no one is getting rich off of these things and they are simply a very budget friendly means to an end. They are actually quite functional and are doing quite well as far as quality too. If they were not the last thing we'd want to do is to continue sales as the margin is just not there to "replace" them. We do not anticipate they'll last to the end of time but they can be mended/replaced if ever needed. At any rate if you want a setup you all know where to find us.

Rob

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Whats your views coupes on how easily a hardpipe style outlet could be fabricated? Since you've spent a bit of time under the car and hands on with the rb outlet id appreciate your feedback

Im considering VTT GC lites as they have 20% off to replace my rattly oem turbos and was discussing the option of fabricating a hardpipe outlet with my local bmw tuner. He's keen to tackle it based on pics ive sent him.

Id prefer a hardpipe for reliability and improved fitment (having a proper rhd solution)

Hi Shane. How is progress on your aluminium outlets going?

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Hi Shane. How is progress on your aluminium outlets going?

+1 Im keen.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Hi Shane. How is progress on your aluminium outlets going?

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

+1 Im keen.

Hey Ken

Hmm unfortunately the guy I have performing all my work injured himself at the end of april, smashed his wrist and hurt his back.

Fast forward a 6 weeks and he's snowed under with work with other race team cars and still not 100% for tig welding... I've got a mate who's got a fabrication business who knows a specialist aluminium welder, since the shop is essentially a one man band I offered this guy to help out but he politely declined..

Hopefully in the next 2-4 weeks he will have the time to get to it, and finish fabricating the outlet (clutch, turbos, FMIC, CP mod, inlets, oil pan gasket etc etc was done back in April)

I did mention that there could be a niche market for a few of these outlets if he was interested, so hmm yeh we'll wait and see..

[N54Trnsfmr]

I am currently working with (encouraging) a fabricator to develop a RHD aluminium outlet for stock/upgrade frame turbos. Work has started, and obviously the tricky rear outlet section is taking some time to resolve. I'll update progress as it happens. There will be an opportunity to purchase these if we get it worked out. Fingers crossed.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by N54Trnsfmr

I am currently working with (encouraging) a fabricator to develop a RHD aluminium outlet for stock/upgrade frame turbos. Work has started, and obviously the tricky rear outlet section is taking some time to resolve. I'll update progress as it happens. There will be an opportunity to purchase these if we get it worked out. Fingers crossed.

Good on you mate, will be interesting to see the completed product

[N54Trnsfmr]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Good on you mate, will be interesting to see the completed product

Quick update: The prototype RHD aluminium outlet has now been completed and we will hopefully test fit and iron out any issues within the next couple of weeks.