Found a Bent rod, can I drop it out the bottom?

Bimmer_Engineer · 11-28-2018, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I finally got some time to install the turbos. I also adjusted the waste gate rods to take up all the slop from worn parts.

When do you think you'll get it back on the road?

JonEQuest · 11-28-2018, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I finally got some time to install the turbos. I also adjusted the waste gate rods to take up all the slop from worn parts.

When do you think you'll get it back on the road?

I could get everything back together in a day but I'm so busy lately I'm only able to work on it a few hours here and there at night. thank God I have a well-lit air-conditioned/heated garage. I figure I'll probably be able to start it in the next couple days.

Bimmer_Engineer · 11-28-2018, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I could get everything back together in a day but I'm so busy lately I'm only able to work on it a few hours here and there at night. thank God I have a well-lit air-conditioned/heated garage. I figure I'll probably be able to start it in the next couple days.

Good luck!!!

JonEQuest · 11-28-2018, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I could get everything back together in a day but I'm so busy lately I'm only able to work on it a few hours here and there at night. thank God I have a well-lit air-conditioned/heated garage. I figure I'll probably be able to start it in the next couple days.

Good luck!!!

Thanks!

JonEQuest · 12-02-2018, 12:42 PM

When you work to the middle of the night then wake up at 10 a.m. for more the next day, you're likely to have beer and coffee on your workbench.

JonEQuest · 12-02-2018, 12:43 PM

I think it was time to replace the transmission mount. it just wasn't holding the car as tight as it should.[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

JonEQuest · 12-02-2018, 12:52 PM

Just some random photos from yesterday. I painted the plug for the top dead center hold + added a bolt to make it easier to grab next time. I also decided to mark top dead center on my pulley for the matching mark on the front of the engine. I made my own cheap Shield out of foil tape stuff with other materials since the new inlets run SOO close to the manifolds. I also fabricated an aluminum bracket with holes for tie wraps to keep the inlet away from the belts. The other photos are just things along the way for anyone who's following my repair of the whack a mole.

JonEQuest · 12-02-2018, 05:38 PM

I'm getting so close I'm just itching to start this thing.

Bimmer_Engineer · 12-02-2018, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I think it was time to replace the transmission mount. it just wasn't holding the car as tight as it should.[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

Yikes...

JonEQuest · 12-04-2018, 10:46 PM

The Whack-A-Mole is actually running again! With NO bent rod! It wouldn't even idle at first but I forgot to plug in one of the camshaft sensors under the head. Once I figured that out it runs much better. I still have some random misfire codes and it seems to stumble sometimes if I give it gas too fast or too slow under load. Part of it may be the rings still seating, not sure. I warmed it up varying the RPM'S in my garage, then I drove it around and ran it a little hard intermittently to start to break it in. When I got home it did seem to idle a little better but my Torque app had misfire on most cylinders and a "random misfire" code too. At least it is mechanically right. Now I need to see if I have another faulty coil, sensor, etc. But at least it runs now and for the first time I can hear my turbo spooling and my BOV when I let off the gas.

JonEQuest · 12-05-2018, 10:58 AM

Yup...plus, coils, injectors...in that order.

JonEQuest · 12-09-2018, 02:08 AM

Well, I replaced the second bad coil I found. I then cleaned and reinstalled the plugs and the car runs great!!! I took it for a good hard run on a highway about 15 miles and back and it feels great. I have never driven a proper running 335i before mine so I am not sure how much "better" it feels since during the teardown and rebuild I also upgraded downpipes, inlets, outlets, charge pipe with a BOV, etc. The power feels great and my Torque app I use as a monitor while I am driving shows NO error codes anymore. One thing I am unsure of is that my "intake pressure" guage in Torque says I get up to about 15psi. Stock boost is supposed to be about 8-9psi right? Maybe Torque is not accurate, or maybe all the goodies are flowing that much better? Either way I am happy.

Dmak · 12-09-2018, 04:03 PM

The boost reading is most likely from the map sensor in charge pipe which will spike when throttle is closed. I have a boost gauge tap into intake manifold for boost. My car is fbo with inlets. One time i put stock tune back in to do some pull with a friend. Boost was right around 10psi and car still pull alot better then just a stock car

JonEQuest · 12-09-2018, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmak

The boost reading is most likely from the map sensor in charge pipe which will spike when throttle is closed. I have a boost gauge tap into intake manifold for boost. My car is fbo with inlets. One time i put stock tune back in to do some pull with a friend. Boost was right around 10psi and car still pull alot better then just a stock car

It actually fluctuates but stays pretty high while running WOT. I need to try and keep a steady pull and see what it stays at. I see what your saying though. It may not be accurrate boost pressure.

Bimmer_Engineer · 12-09-2018, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

It actually fluctuates but stays pretty high while running WOT. I need to try and keep a steady pull and see what it stays at. I see what your saying though. It may not be accurrate boost pressure.

Are you sure the car doesn’t have a tune on it from the previous owner?

JonEQuest · 12-09-2018, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

It actually fluctuates but stays pretty high while running WOT. I need to try and keep a steady pull and see what it stays at. I see what your saying though. It may not be accurrate boost pressure.

Are you sure the car doesn’t have a tune on it from the previous owner?

That is very possible. It came with a polished Injen intake (it's for sale BTW). I also found many things rigged up, duct taped, etc. on the car.

12-10-2018, 12:11 PM

Download MHD and see what a Stage 1, etc. tune will do for you.

If anything, the logging feature will be worth it's weight in gold.

JonEQuest · 12-10-2018, 12:16 PM

I already downloaded the app. But I'm going to wait break the engine in more before I start the tuning it up. One of the main things I want to do right now is dryvit where's injector monitor so I can see if the injectors are all keeping up well. I think you can be done with INPA but I don't know how yet. I'm sure I could figure out how to get into that mode but I haven't found anything telling me what I'm actually looking at to know what's good readings or bad.

RSL · 12-10-2018, 12:57 PM

If it's hitting 15psi, it's already tuned. Bolt-ons don't do much and won't increase boost on their own. Boost is controlled against target and target is dictated by DME (or a JB4). A JB4 by itself isn't a "tune" though, it just raises boost and continues to use essentially stock boost level AFR (lean), timing (high), loads (low), etc.

You want to find out what's in there: flash, JB4 or JB4+BEF.

JonEQuest · 12-10-2018, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSL

If it's hitting 15psi, it's already tuned. Bolt-ons don't do much and won't increase boost on their own. Boost is controlled against target and target is dictated by DME (or a JB4). A JB4 by itself isn't a "tune" though, it just raises boost and continues to use essentially stock boost level AFR (lean), timing (high), loads (low), etc.

You want to find out what's in there: flash, JB4 or JB4+BEF.

Another thing I thought of is that the wastegates were of course very sloppy and loose. I adjusted the arms where 5.5 to 6 Hg of vacuum would fully close the wastegates. I read online somewhere that that's the pressure they should have to close stock. I think that should be fine but I wonder if they're not opening as early as the computer would like now.

12-10-2018, 01:25 PM

Pay for the logging module in MHD and after pulling a log, it will tell you. No need to guess, no need to assume, no need to try some hokey method of watching INPA while doing a pull, etc.

Provide a log and answers will be given.

JonEQuest · 12-10-2018, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Pay for the logging module in MHD and after pulling a log, it will tell you. No need to guess, no need to assume, no need to try some hokey method of watching INPA while doing a pull, etc.

Provide a log and answers will be given.

Sounds like a plan.

12-02-2018, 12:42 PM	#93
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	All-nighter When you work to the middle of the night then wake up at 10 a.m. for more the next day, you're likely to have beer and coffee on your workbench. Attached Images
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12-02-2018, 12:43 PM	#94
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I think it was time to replace the transmission mount. it just wasn't holding the car as tight as it should.[IMG]undefined[/IMG] Attached Images
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12-02-2018, 12:52 PM	#95
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	Just some random photos from yesterday. I painted the plug for the top dead center hold + added a bolt to make it easier to grab next time. I also decided to mark top dead center on my pulley for the matching mark on the front of the engine. I made my own cheap Shield out of foil tape stuff with other materials since the new inlets run SOO close to the manifolds. I also fabricated an aluminum bracket with holes for tie wraps to keep the inlet away from the belts. The other photos are just things along the way for anyone who's following my repair of the whack a mole. Attached Images
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12-02-2018, 05:38 PM	#96
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I'm getting so close I'm just itching to start this thing. Attached Images
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12-04-2018, 10:46 PM	#98
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	The Whack-A-Mole is actually running again! With NO bent rod! It wouldn't even idle at first but I forgot to plug in one of the camshaft sensors under the head. Once I figured that out it runs much better. I still have some random misfire codes and it seems to stumble sometimes if I give it gas too fast or too slow under load. Part of it may be the rings still seating, not sure. I warmed it up varying the RPM'S in my garage, then I drove it around and ran it a little hard intermittently to start to break it in. When I got home it did seem to idle a little better but my Torque app had misfire on most cylinders and a "random misfire" code too. At least it is mechanically right. Now I need to see if I have another faulty coil, sensor, etc. But at least it runs now and for the first time I can hear my turbo spooling and my BOV when I let off the gas. Attached Images
	Appreciate 2 feuer4289.00 Quote

12-05-2018, 10:58 AM	#99
FCobra94 Guest 0 Rep n/a Posts Drives:	Yup...plus, coils, injectors...in that order.
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12-09-2018, 02:08 AM	#100
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	Well, I replaced the second bad coil I found. I then cleaned and reinstalled the plugs and the car runs great!!! I took it for a good hard run on a highway about 15 miles and back and it feels great. I have never driven a proper running 335i before mine so I am not sure how much "better" it feels since during the teardown and rebuild I also upgraded downpipes, inlets, outlets, charge pipe with a BOV, etc. The power feels great and my Torque app I use as a monitor while I am driving shows NO error codes anymore. One thing I am unsure of is that my "intake pressure" guage in Torque says I get up to about 15psi. Stock boost is supposed to be about 8-9psi right? Maybe Torque is not accurate, or maybe all the goodies are flowing that much better? Either way I am happy.
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12-09-2018, 04:03 PM	#101
Dmak Second Lieutenant 69 Rep 252 Posts Drives: 09 135 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Edmonton alberta iTrader: (1)	The boost reading is most likely from the map sensor in charge pipe which will spike when throttle is closed. I have a boost gauge tap into intake manifold for boost. My car is fbo with inlets. One time i put stock tune back in to do some pull with a friend. Boost was right around 10psi and car still pull alot better then just a stock car
	Appreciate 1 Quote

12-10-2018, 12:11 PM	#105
FCobra94 Guest 0 Rep n/a Posts Drives:	Download MHD and see what a Stage 1, etc. tune will do for you. If anything, the logging feature will be worth it's weight in gold.
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12-10-2018, 12:16 PM	#106
JonEQuest Captain 251 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I already downloaded the app. But I'm going to wait break the engine in more before I start the tuning it up. One of the main things I want to do right now is dryvit where's injector monitor so I can see if the injectors are all keeping up well. I think you can be done with INPA but I don't know how yet. I'm sure I could figure out how to get into that mode but I haven't found anything telling me what I'm actually looking at to know what's good readings or bad.
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12-10-2018, 12:57 PM	#107
RSL Captain 650 Rep 779 Posts Drives: E92 ///M3 (Retired) / 335is Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	If it's hitting 15psi, it's already tuned. Bolt-ons don't do much and won't increase boost on their own. Boost is controlled against target and target is dictated by DME (or a JB4). A JB4 by itself isn't a "tune" though, it just raises boost and continues to use essentially stock boost level AFR (lean), timing (high), loads (low), etc. You want to find out what's in there: flash, JB4 or JB4+BEF.
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12-10-2018, 01:25 PM	#109
FCobra94 Guest 0 Rep n/a Posts Drives:	Pay for the logging module in MHD and after pulling a log, it will tell you. No need to guess, no need to assume, no need to try some hokey method of watching INPA while doing a pull, etc. Provide a log and answers will be given.
	Appreciate 0 Quote