[RiXst3r]

Originally Posted by LambOfGod

Wow! Good results and Great Price I bet.

779 for PnP
579 for pin-out

[ezatnova]

Originally Posted by Viper

I feel like I have asked this question five different times, I am just a little ignorant with tunes. Is there going to be a map with very little boost (2-3 psi) or even no boost? I am guessing this would be accessed by the switch? Would decreasing boost put unwanted stress on the engine, or decrease the stress and increase the longevity of the engine?

this tune seems like it could be the one for me if you can decrease boost...ya know, for gas ($4.20 a gallon today...YIKES)

thanks!

Rix,

For this low boost map, I could see it being hugely hellpful on snowy or rainy days too. No need to be blasting around big hp when the tires don't want to grip anyway. It would make driving a lot easier, potentially.

Anyway, for the in-cabin switch...won't THAT then give away the tune and have it be not stock looking? Maybe there's a way to route it that I don't understand...but, even taking the PnP out before going for service (15 minute job all said and done) are you then going to have to undo the switch and wiring to really clean it up? That would be the real pain I think. Could be a tough call between having switching available and really remaining 100% stock clean after removing the JB3?

Actually, I might sacrifice in-cabin switchability if we could have the option of a switch just tucked in near the box itself in the ecu compartment. That way, there's only a little wire sitting there going to the switch, from the JB...no drillingm, no fishing, no nothing. Granted, that would mean a half hour of work (15 to open and 15 to close) to switch it...tough call, I dunno.

Last questions for now...with the "chip" style updates, do you forsee customers getting new chips from you and popping them in the JB themselves, or would they mail the JB to you for installation of the new chip. What happens to the old chips if it's acustomer install? I could see you guys wanting them back, to use for reflashing to newer stuff (but maybe they are dirt cheap and "disposable"?)

[Lane]

You might want a switch in an invisible place then. E.g. Below the seat. Good to confirm that you have the correct map by feeling the switch position. Also, it will be there every time when you need it, works always and is never lost.

[adrian1480]

God Bless Terry.

That is all.

Question: I went into limp mode once back in February. Just once. Forgot to flip the "R" switch over night. Is there anything I need to do to make sure that doesn't come back to haunt me (ie, code reader + delete), or has enough time passed such that it's nothing to worry about?

Thanks guys.

[lawdude]

Originally Posted by adrian1480

God Bless Terry.

That is all.

I thought Terry WAS God, then I remembered it was Eric Clapton.

[hotrod182]

Originally Posted by lawdude

I thought Terry WAS God, then I remembered it was Eric Clapton.

Wow, hope you didn't spend too much time worshipping the wrong god!

[lawdude]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

Wow, hope you didn't spend too much time worshipping the wrong god!

I was thinking the same thing about you.

[RiXst3r]

Originally Posted by ezatnova

Rix,

For this low boost map, I could see it being hugely hellpful on snowy or rainy days too. No need to be blasting around big hp when the tires don't want to grip anyway. It would make driving a lot easier, potentially.

Anyway, for the in-cabin switch...won't THAT then give away the tune and have it be not stock looking? Maybe there's a way to route it that I don't understand...but, even taking the PnP out before going for service (15 minute job all said and done) are you then going to have to undo the switch and wiring to really clean it up? That would be the real pain I think. Could be a tough call between having switching available and really remaining 100% stock clean after removing the JB3?

Actually, I might sacrifice in-cabin switchability if we could have the option of a switch just tucked in near the box itself in the ecu compartment. That way, there's only a little wire sitting there going to the switch, from the JB...no drillingm, no fishing, no nothing. Granted, that would mean a half hour of work (15 to open and 15 to close) to switch it...tough call, I dunno.

Last questions for now...with the "chip" style updates, do you forsee customers getting new chips from you and popping them in the JB themselves, or would they mail the JB to you for installation of the new chip. What happens to the old chips if it's acustomer install? I could see you guys wanting them back, to use for reflashing to newer stuff (but maybe they are dirt cheap and "disposable"?)

The switch does not have to be any more permanent than the jb3 itself... so I don't see a problem removing it... we will see better once the switch is shown.

The map chips will be simple cheap drop in install that the user can do very easily.

-Rick

[BMW_TT]

i want mine now!!!

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by BMW_TT

i want mine now!!!

Me too.
I can't wait to try this out.

[RiXst3r]

Originally Posted by RiXst3r

The switch does not have to be any more permanent than the jb3 itself... so I don't see a problem removing it... we will see better once the switch is shown.

The map chips will be simple cheap drop in install that the user can do very easily.

-Rick

From Terry about the switch...

The harness has a small connection to allow various switch options.
The easiest and most popular option will be a toggle switch with 2' of
wire, that you can leave sitting in the engine bay and remove with the
JB3 in seconds. More labor intensive options include monuting the
switch in the glove box, or a wireless option.

[F1-Slayer]

[hun77777]

just signed up. august is right around the corner...

[RiXst3r]

Some photos from the dyno...

[hotrod182]

:

Originally Posted by lawdude

I was thinking the same thing about you.

I don't worship, but I knew I would elicit that exact response from you before I even finished writing my last post. You are predictable as always. And always on topic. (That is, in your own little world. )
But thanks for your relevant post pertaining to the JB3 dyno thread.

[hun77777]

do you think i can safely assume that it will get me around 350ish whp just with jb3? how about with intake/exhaust/jb3?

i might be doing intake/exhaust later on, since intake is very easy to pull it out when i need to go to dealer (assume the same for JB3) and my dealer seems cool about aftermarket exhaust as long as it has cats, but i won't do dp or intercooler because i don't feel like paying every now and then for install/uninstall when i need to visit dealer for the service...

[RiXst3r]

Originally Posted by hun77777

do you think i can safely assume that it will get me around 350ish whp just with jb3? how about with intake/exhaust/jb3?

i might be doing intake/exhaust later on, since intake is very easy to pull it out when i need to go to dealer (assume the same for JB3) and my dealer seems cool about aftermarket exhaust as long as it has cats, but i won't do dp or intercooler because i don't feel like paying every now and then for install/uninstall when i need to visit dealer for the service...

350whp with just jb3 on a 335 is a good assumption...
Add in those other parts, and you can add another 15-25whp+

-Rick

[lawdude]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

:

I don't worship, but I knew I would elicit that exact response from you before I even finished writing my last post. You are predictable as always. And always on topic. (That is, in your own little world. )
But thanks for your relevant post pertaining to the JB3 dyno thread.

My predictablility makes you comfortable. lawdude likey.

[addy85]

[ezatnova]

Originally Posted by RiXst3r

From Terry about the switch...

The harness has a small connection to allow various switch options.
The easiest and most popular option will be a toggle switch with 2' of
wire, that you can leave sitting in the engine bay and remove with the
JB3 in seconds.

This is exactly what I'd want. That's what I was trying to describe, poorly, in my prior post.

[ezatnova]

Here's another question Rix,

With the way the JB3 controls boosting (which I do not claim to have a thorough understanding of at this point, other than that it uses both stock solenoids), does it have the true ability to negate/counter/erase the lag from the wastegate duty cycles imposed by 29.2+ progmans?

I 110% understand how Dinan fixes this issues, because they build their code on the 27.4 foundation, which didn't HAVE the stupid lag. However, using a piggy, I wouldn't think you would be able to control or change the code within 29.2 that is at the root of the lag. Perhaps JB3 does something ELSE to more or less counter the lag. I'd love some explanation/clarification around that.

With the cars you are dyno'ing, and your general experience, I assume you have personally felt the change in responsiveness on 29.2+ cars, and I'd love to hear your impressions of how JB3 impacts that aspect, if it actually does at all.


Thanks!

[adrian1480]

Originally Posted by adrian1480

Question: I went into limp mode once back in February. Just once. Forgot to flip the "R" switch over night and it happened right when I turned the car on. Is there anything I need to do to make sure that doesn't come back to haunt me (ie, code reader + delete), or has enough time passed such that it's nothing to worry about?

Thanks guys.

anyone?