[KnighTT]

That's a fair point to be honest.

Maybe we should start conservative and have a foundation that can be built upon. A solid running engine, good airflow, runs perfect with proper cooling, then build up safety and suspension.

Then we can build on performance as experience and need comes.

[NoGuru]

Hey Knight, I cannot comment on the internals as I have not touched them. But I do have a 2011 IS and DCT and about 600whp.

I think my signature is pretty up to date on the mods but the summery is DAW19T's
FBO
Full Catless
Lots of fuel, Walbro 535 and Walbro 450 on 15psi Hobbs switch
E45 tune
Port injection
xHP Stage 3 DCT tune
And here is some videos of it this past weekend running a half mile race.
You can see how bad I beat this Viper, although I am not sure what year it is or mods.
https://www.youtube.com/user/tracyna..._as=subscriber

I can help with mod suggestions except for internals.

[gster109]

Very informative build thread, thank you for sharing.

I'm in the same position as you, 240km's & rebuilt turbos and most major repairs done running MHD Stage 2+ pulls strong & steady w no boost leaks that i know of.

i've just went with some ST X Coilovers & M3 front control arms.

I think the next logical step before more power would be refreshing the suspension & bushings.

I've really got to get on that intake cleaning tho for my own peace of mind. any tips or guides you used that i could refer to ?

Awesome build btw, that space grey metallic 🤤

[KnighTT]

If you want to keep to a budget, as walnut blasting comes at a high cost, then you can just wire wheel clean the intake ports with CRC Intake valve and Turbo cleaner and clean up with brake cleaner.

Take off the intake manifold, turn the engine until the valve in the port you want to clean is completely closed. Then spray in some CRC valve cleaner and let is soak for 15-30min. Then put an engine cleaning wire brush on a power drill and just go at the entire port. Get down in there good. Suck out the gunk and cleaner and clean it up with brake clean. Suck that out and check your work. Repeat until you get it as clean as you want it. You might need to get a pick and get a chunk or spot out that is stubborn or stuck behind the valve. After the CRC this stuff is pretty gummy. Easy to get off.

Just take your time. Blast each port out with air to make sure no little metal pieces fell off the wire brush.

Trick is....if you don't get an oil catch can it'll come right back. I mean within 5-10k miles, it'll all be back. I have to do mine again before I put the black back together. Although it'll be much easier as the head is bare.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...7714472&sr=8-4

[KnighTT]

So, I made a decision.

I am not going to build the block right now. That would be putting the cart WAY in front of the horse. I need some seat time with this car on the track. I don't need the car to have 600hp for me to get in track time and get comfortable with the car. In fact, all that extra juice may end up just putting it into a wall.

I think what I am going to do is do a full rebuild on the engine. Make everything new and fresh and put a conservative tune on the stage 2 turbos. Like 450awhp. We will focus on all the supporting mods to allow the stg2 hybrids to breath as much as they need, for any HP, a new clutch and flywheel to support present and future modifications, and get the car back together.

Then we will get it out on the track. Next will of course be suspension, safety, brakes, etc and all that come with making track days more enjoyable. A smooth running engine is really all I need to get out there.

If we get more serious into the sport, then I will simply buy a used short block and build it. Then, off season, it will just be a simple swap the rebuilt head and current supporting equipment on the new block and get back out there.

That keeps me from sinking a pile of money into making the car into something it may never end up needing. I'd hate to do a full build and then realize a year or two down the road I want to move to something else. Id never recoup the investment of time or money.

Anyways, parts on the way.
- Piston rings ($150 full kit btw)
- Con Rod bolts
- King main and rod bearings
- Main bearing bolts
- Honing tool from Flex-hone
- Front and rear main oil seals
- Bed plate bolt kit (part of a kit from ECS for ALL the bolts for the block)

Once I get the block back together we will address what the head needs. I have the tools to do the valve lapping at home. I may do a DIY port and polish. RB ext PCV valve modifications. I know I need a few new rockers and tappets.

Parts should arrive over the next week or so.

[feuer]

Why build xDrive for track?

[KnighTT]

Because AWD? You can also tune the transfer case with xHP xDELETE now. So I can tune the AWD system to include tuning it to full RWD. I like options.

Now I did think of reaching out to a few people to ask if the AWD system would give me issues with higher HP. Fair question. I heard back from several people who track at over 600hp xDrive with no issues.

That being said, I put on new front axles and will overhaul the entire drive train with new fluids.

[KnighTT]

Oh, BTW.... if anyone has xDrive. If you use xDELETE and turn the AWD off for daily driving, several people have found it gives you a few more MPG.

No issue there.

[Vulcan50]

Originally Posted by feuer

Why build xDrive for track?

While I kinda hate to be "that guy," most high horsepower cars are awd. Looking at (factory) 600+ hp cars, for every 1 that's rwd, 10 are awd.

There's a reason.

Especially since we are fairly limited on the amount of rubber that we can fit, rwd either lights up the rear or kills the throttle.

[KnighTT]

^^ This was the epiphany I had when I was looking for a e92 N54 with a MT. I was looking for several months for a basic platform with the manual. Meaning no NAV, no gimmicky tech that is already outdated and broken. Black interior. Solid condition. Yeah, no dice. 99% of all base 335i were AT and I couldn't get anyone to sell a 335is for a decent price. I still didn't love the idea of the DCT as it's all abut fun with the MT. Even if it doesn't shift as fast.

I had looked over every ad for months and I noticed a picture pop up on Facebook I did not recognize. Turns out to be a high mileage, very well priced MT, but was a X-drive....hmmm.

Then it dawned on me.... 6spd MT, straight 6 twin turbo, AWD....sound like any other platform I love? Not to directly compare to, obviously, but the GT-R came to mind.

In being practical, I did some research to make sure the X-drive wasn't a pile of bricks. With xDELETE you have some great options. So, thinking of it's addition of AWD for a track build, I jumped on it.

Now it slinging around corners and sticking is still remained to be seen but I like what it could be. Plus, if I want it to be RWD, all I need is my tablet and 3 minutes, if needed.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Vulcan50

While I kinda hate to be "that guy," most high horsepower cars are awd. Looking at (factory) 600+ hp cars, for every 1 that's rwd, 10 are awd.

There's a reason.

Especially since we are fairly limited on the amount of rubber that we can fit, rwd either lights up the rear or kills the throttle.

Originally Posted by KnighTT

^^ This was the epiphany I had when I was looking for a e92 N54 with a MT. I was looking for several months for a basic platform with the manual. Meaning no NAV, no gimmicky tech that is already outdated and broken. Black interior. Solid condition. Yeah, no dice. 99% of all base 335i were AT and I couldn't get anyone to sell a 335is for a decent price. I still didn't love the idea of the DCT as it's all abut fun with the MT. Even if it doesn't shift as fast.

I had looked over every ad for months and I noticed a picture pop up on Facebook I did not recognize. Turns out to be a high mileage, very well priced MT, but was a X-drive....hmmm.

Then it dawned on me.... 6spd MT, straight 6 twin turbo, AWD....sound like any other platform I love? Not to directly compare to, obviously, but the GT-R came to mind.

In being practical, I did some research to make sure the X-drive wasn't a pile of bricks. With xDELETE you have some great options. So, thinking of it's addition of AWD for a track build, I jumped on it.

Now it slinging around corners and sticking is still remained to be seen but I like what it could be. Plus, if I want it to be RWD, all I need is my tablet and 3 minutes, if needed.

1- xDrive system on e90 can’t handle high horse power numbers so not huge advantage on straight lane, like 1/4 mile, considering added weight. Fastest e90 on 1/4 is RWD and will probably remain that way until someone comes up with upgraded XDrive system

2 - for road course xdrive won’t see benefit either. On top of added weight on the front, suspension choices will be lot less, so handling will be poorer, more nose heavy, more understeer. Can’t be lowered as much or you will thorn the front axles.


I have been tracking e90 since 2010. I won’t count this year since I been only once. Stupid covid 19 rules. Can tell you that rwd on map 1 or 13psi is faster around the track than xdrive on map 2 15psi. Noticeably faster.

So from my first hand experience I must disagree with both of you.

[KnighTT]

I guess we'll see. I'd still rather have the AWD.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

I guess we'll see. I'd still rather have the AWD.

Of course! Always go for what you want!

[KnighTT]

Well, all the parts have come in. Bearings, bolts, honing tool, piston rings. Need to get some pictures up.

I have also decided, as much as I like the 335is M Tech bumper, I just can't swing the reason to get new headlights to make it fit. The MSport bumper doesn't do much for me.

The M3 rep bumper will have to do. Frankly it's for form. With the M3 air ducts fitted these provide direct supply to the oil cooler. Inexpensive as well.

I get back to the world of the working in Sept, finally, so we can get a few more of these projects back in swing soon. I need to free up some space in the garage, again, to give me some elbow room before we get to work on the head.

Also, I think I'm going to pick up the ICS coilover kit for race'track use when they go on sale around the holidays. Lifetime warranty. Better spring rates than the BC. Plus ICS has different spring options. Plus I have not seen any negative reviews for ICS yet.

[Emilime75]

The 35is/LCI MSport bumper isn't very different than the pre LCI MSport bumper, so not sure why one does it for you while the other doesn't. Besides, it's a track build, if you're going to attempt to be competitive, the chances of contact with other cars/walls and dirt/grass offs are high. No need to make the car ultra pretty.

[KnighTT]

Agreed. M3 rep front end with the air vents offers function, looks a bit better, and is rather cheap. The font end of the car had to be trashed anyways. Prior owner damaged the lower lip and just covered it up with the cheap lip extender. Didn't prime the paint and the main coat just flaked right off. So I trashed the entire front bumper.

[KnighTT]

Well, I have decided after a few conversations with those experienced, and ADHD motivation, to go ahead and build the bottom end.

Molnar rods
CP pistons

Cyl walls are in excellent condition so we are going to stick with the STD bore. Already have the Flex-Hone. We are also going to stick with the std 10.2:1 compression. I like the price of the JE pistons but they are all 9.5 CR. Unless you go custom order and those make it the same price of the CP anyway.

I seriously want ARP head studs but the cost is ridiculous and a good deal of people actually sell the set that is not really made for the N54. They are made for a Chrysler 2.2 block and the threads are about a half inch shorter on the block side and you cannot torque them to spec. (Then why get head studs....)

So VTT supposedly sells a kit that is the right length, though no clue where on their site, and they are $400. The other makeshift kits are also $400 with is insane. I picked up a ARP stud kit for a V8 Land Rover a few years ago for almost a 1/4 of that price. Same for a R53 Mini Cooper build. Why is the N54 kit more than twice the price....

Plus, the stock head bolts are well under $100 for the entire kit. Now I have been told my power goals are well within the means of what the stock head bolts will allow. I just really want head studs.

[KnighTT]

OK, found an incredible deal for a set of JE pistons, so those are on their way.
Molnar rods have also been ordered.

I need to go ahead and return the rod bolts I ordered and the piston rings set I picked up.

Good things on the way.

[KnighTT]

Ok, so the place I got the JE pistons from for $700 I think is either a SCAM or they take forever to fill an order. So I am going to do a chargeback and get my money reversed. A set from Amazon is on the way.

These days I'm starting to realize I'll pay a few more $$ to order on Amazon just so you KNOW you can get your money back easily if it goes pear shaped. When you aren't buying from a well known website. Like FCP and ECS for our crowd.

Anyway, here we go.

Stuff is starting to pile up. Molnar rods came in. Top notch finish.







A+ on the Flex-Hone. Super easy compared to the work I have done in the past with the spring loaded stones. Highly recommend.





Got to work on the bedplate too this weekend. I also paint matched the block but I don't have pictures of that yet.

Once again, that Formula 88 degreaser works WONDERS on aluminum. Super gentle the the metal. Spray it on, let is soak for 5 min, rise, repeat until it's all gone.





Just waiting for the pistons to get here now. Should be here in Friday. Back to researching the next steps.

[NoGuru]

I love car part porn.

Just an FYI on ordering from Amazon. There are tons and tons of fakes and clones on Amazon, way more then I think most people know. I used to order from there all the time but now only as a last resort because there are so many clones.

[KnighTT]

I got a set of NGK 95770's for a really good price on Amazon. I honestly did not know about the fakes until I started looking up the gap for them. By the time they got to me in the mail I was ready to go over them with a magnifying glass, had pictures saved, etc.

Turned out to be 100% legit, or the best clone of all time.

[KnighTT]

New pistons get here tomorrow. Then I can go ahead and check the ring gaps and verify my cylinders are good to go. After that, and some research, we'll go ahead and start getting the lower block back together. I'm waiting on a good angle torque wrench to arrive.

Oh, here is a PSA - The new Craftsman torque wrenches are a solid do NOT buy. I purchased a 1/2" and 3/8" a few Christmas's ago and used them about 2-3 times before their internal gears stripped out. The main torque gear inside the head and not even the rebuildable part. I went to go get a new set on Amazon and the reviews all said the same thing. Just not what they used to be.

That being said, 95% of my hand tools are Craftsman. I just don't really go to them for any of their power tools or without the warranty. I really like the textured hand tools. Too many higher end tools are polished and once your hands get greasy, they can be hard to grip without gloves.