[335i_4D]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

IMO if you want to stick with Menzerna ...

Hi.
Like I said, I'm opened for options...
If they're better combos for my car, I don't have any problems taking something else.
I'm building the kit from ground up, that's why I ask the question to experts, as I would like to get a good kit 1st hand.

As for Meguiar's, is 95 too much or could it replace M105 ?

So, basically, what are my options ?


Thanks again.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 335i_4D

Hi.
Like I said, I'm opened for options...
If they're better combos for my car, I don't have any problems taking something else.
I'm building the kit from ground up, that's why I ask the question to experts, as I would like to get a good kit 1st hand.

As for Meguiar's, is 95 too much or could it replace M105 ?

So, basically, what are my options ?

Thanks again.

Menzerna polishes use diminishing abrasive particles, meaning they start at one size and get smaller and smaller as you work the polish. The smaller the abrasives get the better the finish and gloss and depth. Menzerna designed these polishes to work with a high powered rotary buffer. While they do work on random orbitals, you end up missing out a little because something like a PC cannot fully break down a polish the same way a rotary buffer can.

The alternative is to use non-diminishing abrasive polishes, so that your level of cut an finish relies on the amount of pressure exerted more so than breaking down of the polishes. If you want more cut, you simply press harder, as you want to finish better, you let off. This is how the Meguiar's M105 and M205 combo are designed to work, which makes they very effective, even on a PC.

I'm not saying you necessarily have to change from the Menzerna to Meg's, Menzerna still yields great results with a PC and many can vouch for that. If you do opt for the Menzerna polishes, remember the smaller the pad you go with the more concentrated the power is and the better your results will be. My take on it is you'll get more cut and overall correction with the Meg's but the finishing abilities of say PO85RD are slightly better. The Meg's polishes will yield easier results if you take the time to read up on them a little, here's a great M105 / M205 how-to article.

You'd only need the M105 + M205 combo for great results. Actually you could look into this PC7424XP + Meg's Polishes Kit.

If you have any questions or if there's anything else I can help with let me know.

George

[normtrum]

Hi George. I haven't been on the forums for a long time, but I had a few questions about a new direction I'm thinking of taking.

'07 black saph 335i. Still looks great, since I've always got a lot of product on the car. In the past I've gone with Menzerna polishes after wash and clay, then Menz FMJ. I used to go with Natty blue post FMJ, but I liked the results of the FMJ so much I stopped the Natty. My only problem (like most others) is that the FMJ doesn't last very long.

I'm thinking of changing from FMJ to BlackFire Wet Diamond....or I've also considered the new Menz PLPS....after wash, clay, and slight imperfection removal with Menz polish...either "intensive" or "final" depending on the removal level. I have a Flex 3401 and various Lake Country pads.

Here's my questions:

Would you reccomend the BlackFire Wet or the Menz PLPS?
Do you think I should use a "cleaner wax" such as the one from Dodo Juice? (I've never used a "cleaner wax" after polishing.....but I'm thinking I should).
What would you think about using Clear Kote Carnuba Moose Wax after the sealant?
What is the cure time for the 2 sealants mentioned above? I would prob use 2-3 coats.
What is the cure time for the Moose Wax? how many coats?
Finally....what is the shelf life for Menzerna FMJ? I ask since I have a lot left, and I don't want it to go to waste.....probably use on my wife's car.

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Hi George. I haven't been on the forums for a long time, but I had a few questions about a new direction I'm thinking of taking.

'07 black saph 335i. Still looks great, since I've always got a lot of product on the car. In the past I've gone with Menzerna polishes after wash and clay, then Menz FMJ. I used to go with Natty blue post FMJ, but I liked the results of the FMJ so much I stopped the Natty. My only problem (like most others) is that the FMJ doesn't last very long.

I'm thinking of changing from FMJ to BlackFire Wet Diamond....or I've also considered the new Menz PLPS....after wash, clay, and slight imperfection removal with Menz polish...either "intensive" or "final" depending on the removal level. I have a Flex 3401 and various Lake Country pads.

Here's my questions:

Would you reccomend the BlackFire Wet or the Menz PLPS?
Do you think I should use a "cleaner wax" such as the one from Dodo Juice? (I've never used a "cleaner wax" after polishing.....but I'm thinking I should).
What would you think about using Clear Kote Carnuba Moose Wax after the sealant?
What is the cure time for the 2 sealants mentioned above? I would prob use 2-3 coats.
What is the cure time for the Moose Wax? how many coats?
Finally....what is the shelf life for Menzerna FMJ? I ask since I have a lot left, and I don't want it to go to waste.....probably use on my wife's car.

Thanks!

Hey normtrum, good to hear from you

If you want proven durability, go with the Blackfire Wet Diamond. The Menz Power Lock is still relatively new and there haven't been a ton of time to know exactly how long it'll last. They both have similar application and removal, both are slick and both look great. I just know the Wet Diamond has great durability as well, can't go wrong there.

I wouldn't recommend a cleaner wax prior to the sealant. The layer of wax coating could hinder how your sealant bonds to the paint. If anything you'd want to use something that is acrylic based, so it doesn't hinder the sealant bonding. Something like Chemical Guys Vertua Bond 408 or Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze would be my choices under the sealant.

I think you'd run into the same dilemma you did topping the NB over the FMJ, by going with Carnauba Moose Wax over BF Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock. I don't think you'll notice much added gloss and depth, consider those two sealants look stunning. You'd probably have to bump up to a higher priced wax to notice a significant difference, which at that point, may not be justifiable. You could try one of the Dodo Juice sample pots to test things out and assess for yourself.

General rule of thumb to follow is that sealants are 24 hours for optimal cure time between coats. Waxes are 12 - 24 hours typically. Blackfire states the cure time on Wet Diamond is only 8 hours though, but I still follow the general rule of thumb when I apply multiple coats or a coat of wax on top.

Shelf life of most auto detailing products when stored properly is around 5 years. Beyond that they may begin to break down and lose some of their potency, may not remove as easily, might smell a little different, etc. Usually products still work, but maybe not quite at 100%.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

All the best,

George

[normtrum]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Hey normtrum, good to hear from you

If you want proven durability, go with the Blackfire Wet Diamond. The Menz Power Lock is still relatively new and there haven't been a ton of time to know exactly how long it'll last. They both have similar application and removal, both are slick and both look great. I just know the Wet Diamond has great durability as well, can't go wrong there.

I wouldn't recommend a cleaner wax prior to the sealant. The layer of wax coating could hinder how your sealant bonds to the paint. If anything you'd want to use something that is acrylic based, so it doesn't hinder the sealant bonding. Something like Chemical Guys Vertua Bond 408 or Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze would be my choices under the sealant.

I think you'd run into the same dilemma you did topping the NB over the FMJ, by going with Carnauba Moose Wax over BF Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock. I don't think you'll notice much added gloss and depth, consider those two sealants look stunning. You'd probably have to bump up to a higher priced wax to notice a significant difference, which at that point, may not be justifiable. You could try one of the Dodo Juice sample pots to test things out and assess for yourself.

General rule of thumb to follow is that sealants are 24 hours for optimal cure time between coats. Waxes are 12 - 24 hours typically. Blackfire states the cure time on Wet Diamond is only 8 hours though, but I still follow the general rule of thumb when I apply multiple coats or a coat of wax on top.

Shelf life of most auto detailing products when stored properly is around 5 years. Beyond that they may begin to break down and lose some of their potency, may not remove as easily, might smell a little different, etc. Usually products still work, but maybe not quite at 100%.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

All the best,

George

Got it....no to the cleaner wax. I will go with one of the 2 chemical guy products you mentioned sandwiched in between my polish and sealant (I will go with the Blackfire). I will also hold off on the wax.


Couple more questions for you: I have thrown out my Menz Auto shampoo....it was awful. What would you recommend for a wash solution that would help the Blackfire last? There are so many of them!

Also, I'm tired of reading all the reviews on MF detergents/cleaners....what do you prefer to use?

Last question...I think.....is there a backing plate for the flex that will allow me to use 4" pads? (for hard to reach areas only)Would the LC plate work?

[UncleWede]

George,

How long does 303 last? I'm torn between 32 and 128 oz. If I get teh bigger bottle and keep filling up the spray bottles, about how long do I have to use it all up? Little League is almost done, so I have people chomping at teh bit to turn in their Christmas gifts of a free exterior detail. 303 needed in probably a bigger size than 32, but just not sure if I will use all the 128.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Got it....no to the cleaner wax. I will go with one of the 2 chemical guy products you mentioned sandwiched in between my polish and sealant (I will go with the Blackfire). I will also hold off on the wax.

Couple more questions for you: I have thrown out my Menz Auto shampoo....it was awful. What would you recommend for a wash solution that would help the Blackfire last? There are so many of them!

Also, I'm tired of reading all the reviews on MF detergents/cleaners....what do you prefer to use?

Last question...I think.....is there a backing plate for the flex that will allow me to use 4" pads? (for hard to reach areas only)Would the LC plate work?

I was never a fan of the Menz shampoo either, hence why we discontinued it from our site. A great maintenance shampoo is Chemical Guys Glossworkz, I've been using this lately and it has yet to let me down. I also enjoy the two Dodo Juice shampoos, Sour Power and Born 2 be Mild, for maintenance but they can get pricey since the bottles are so small. Right now would be a good time to stock up on shampoo during our shampoo sale. Bang for the buck Maxi Suds II is a great one too for maintenance.

The best way to care for pads and towels... here's the secrete and never lets me down. Once your done with your wash step, empty one of your buckets (or two if you want to separate pads and towels) and fill it up with water and put some all purpose cleaner in it. The second you are done using a towel or pad, take it over and run it over a Grit Guard insert and let it soak in the APC solution. This helps get product residue out right from the get go before it has a chance to harden. After, your done detailing, simply wash them as you would, using either Tide Free or a MF detergent. This will give you the best results time after time and if you get into that habit, your towels and pads will last much longer. Here's an article on properly caring for your MF towels.

The LC backing plates won't work on the Flex, it's a proprietary backing plate unfortunately. I have seen an adapter floating around that uses a different system of pads but I'm not sure if that's still available or not.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

George,

How long does 303 last? I'm torn between 32 and 128 oz. If I get teh bigger bottle and keep filling up the spray bottles, about how long do I have to use it all up? Little League is almost done, so I have people chomping at teh bit to turn in their Christmas gifts of a free exterior detail. 303 needed in probably a bigger size than 32, but just not sure if I will use all the 128.

If you store the 303 Aerospace Protectant properly, I'd say you have a solid 5 - 7 years before it begins to lose it's potency. If you don't plan on using it up that quickly, then I'd say stick to the 32oz sizes.

Let us know how the details turn out!

George

[normtrum]

Thanks George - another question; is there any advantage of using the red LC "ultra fine" pad for the Blackfire sealant over the black LC pad I use for fmj. The reason I ask is I don't like the way the black pad absorbs so much product midway through sealant application. the red pad claims to be made in a way that it won't absorb so much....but is it gently enough for sealant?

Thanks again for all your help btw....I'm just about ready to empty my cart. Just need to figure out my pads.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Thanks George - another question; is there any advantage of using the red LC "ultra fine" pad for the Blackfire sealant over the black LC pad I use for fmj. The reason I ask is I don't like the way the black pad absorbs so much product midway through sealant application. the red pad claims to be made in a way that it won't absorb so much....but is it gently enough for sealant?

Thanks again for all your help btw....I'm just about ready to empty my cart. Just need to figure out my pads.

The red LC is pretty much the same as our blue LC pad. I haven't had any problems applying a sealant with it, although I typically apply my LSPs by hand, sick of using the buffer by that point If anything though, the blue and red pads should absorb more product than the black since it's more porous (higher PPI). You can give a mist of quick detailer to the pad to help keep the product on the surface of the pad rather than get absorbed in.

Hope this helps. Be sure to let me know how everything turns out with the new goodies.

George

[normtrum]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

The red LC is pretty much the same as our blue LC pad. I haven't had any problems applying a sealant with it, although I typically apply my LSPs by hand, sick of using the buffer by that point If anything though, the blue and red pads should absorb more product than the black since it's more porous (higher PPI). You can give a mist of quick detailer to the pad to help keep the product on the surface of the pad rather than get absorbed in.

Hope this helps. Be sure to let me know how everything turns out with the new goodies.

George

Good tip....thanks! I will stick with my black pad....i've still got a couple, and I will try the qd misting! I'll let you know how it goes....I'll prob post some more pics.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Good tip....thanks! I will stick with my black pad....i've still got a couple, and I will try the qd misting! I'll let you know how it goes....I'll prob post some more pics.

Looking forward to seeing how things turn out. Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

[IRIS335I]

Hi I have a 2007 335I and need to clean the silver around the windows. This is not real aluminum?, so Mothers does not work. Do you know any products that do the trick to shine up this spotty area?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rheemix

Hi George,

There were some heavy swirls on one part of my hood, so I applied heavy pressure (probably more than I should have) with my PC with orange pad using M105. It got rid of all the swirls, but it created some haze, which I though was somewhat normal and I could get rid of it using M205 with white pad. Well, I can't seem to get rid of it! I tried different speed, different pressure, many paths, and I can still see the checker pattern that I went through with 105. I don't think I'm creating new ones with 205. My orange pad was already in the wash bucket, so I didn't get to try to run M105 with orange pad again, but I guess I can try that. I hope I didn't damage the paint too bad by applying too much pressure the first time. What do you think happened?

Thank you.

I'd recommend going over the car again with the M105 and orange and as your finishing working it, let up on the pressure for a couple of passes. If need be, even use M105 on a white pad, then M205 on white and/or black. Using some pressure and letting up at the end with each pass. Work in smaller areas as well to ensure maximum results.

Chances are you just applied too much pressure and the step you used after wasn't correcting enough to remove the hazing / marring created. Hope this helps, keep us posted how things turn out.

Originally Posted by IRIS335I

Hi I have a 2007 335I and need to clean the silver around the windows. This is not real aluminum?, so Mothers does not work. Do you know any products that do the trick to shine up this spotty area?

I usually turn to an all in one polish for these areas. Something like Klasse All In One is a good option. If it's simply oxidized, this would help. If there are swirls / marring / etc. you'd need to use an abrasive product to remove them.

[uabimmer]

hey George,
I have a question about a carpet stain I came across the other day.
It seems to be some sort of glue or sap solidified into the carpet.

I've tried CG Fabric Clean, CG grime reaper, even a little Aircraft Paint remover.
But nothing seems to work (aircraft paint remover makes it mushy & i think it would damage the carpet if i use it on a larger scale)

What would you recommend for this nasty stain?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance

here are some pics

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by uabimmer

hey George,
I have a question about a carpet stain I came across the other day.
It seems to be some sort of glue or sap solidified into the carpet.

I've tried CG Fabric Clean, CG grime reaper, even a little Aircraft Paint remover.
But nothing seems to work (aircraft paint remover makes it mushy & i think it would damage the carpet if i use it on a larger scale)

What would you recommend for this nasty stain?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance

here are some pics

You could try the approach on what many use for gum on carpets. Take one of those compressed air cans, flip it upside down, spray to freeze the area, then pick the chunks away with a credit card / plastic razor blade / something similar. This should help remove a good portion of it.

I'm assuming your scrubbing it good with a firm bristle brush when your attempting cleaning? You could also take some hot / close to boiling water and soak the stains with that, then scrub, add some grime reaper, scrub, repeat if it's helping.

Next step would be a carpet extractor or slowly start clipping the gunk out with scissors or a razor blade.

Those would be my steps after what you've already tried.

Good luck, keep us posted on if any of it helps.

George

[normtrum]

George - I screwed up and didn't order any "mid level" polish on my last 2 orders....I thought I had plenty of Menz Intensive Polish....but I don't. I do have tons of Menz Final finish....but my problem is I don't know if it's got enough bite for what I need. I know I'm supposed to use a white pad with my Flex, but I'd like to know I can use the Final Finish with a orange pad to get some extra bite.

My black saph never has anything but very mild imperfections....since I "spot" polish any arising problem areas in-between my full blown details. At the very least I think I should try the FP with the white pad....and see if that works....then if it doesn't...that's when I'd like to know if the orange pad would work. Thanks!

[uabimmer]

Hey George,
it turns out that a combination technique worked for me. I would use the boiling water to loosen up the "stuff" and then freeze it to scrape it off.
The results are not perfect but the best that I've been able to get so far.

Thanks again & best of luck with DI
-Roman

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

George - I screwed up and didn't order any "mid level" polish on my last 2 orders....I thought I had plenty of Menz Intensive Polish....but I don't. I do have tons of Menz Final finish....but my problem is I don't know if it's got enough bite for what I need. I know I'm supposed to use a white pad with my Flex, but I'd like to know I can use the Final Finish with a orange pad to get some extra bite.

My black saph never has anything but very mild imperfections....since I "spot" polish any arising problem areas in-between my full blown details. At the very least I think I should try the FP with the white pad....and see if that works....then if it doesn't...that's when I'd like to know if the orange pad would work. Thanks!

You can give it a go with the orange pad, but what you may experiencing is some marring from using an aggressive pad with a finishing polish. This means that after using Final Finish with orange, you may have to go over it again with white or black, so it's still 2 steps. Let me know if the Final Finish has enough bite to correct the imperfections. Good luck!

Originally Posted by uabimmer

Hey George,
it turns out that a combination technique worked for me. I would use the boiling water to loosen up the "stuff" and then freeze it to scrape it off.
The results are not perfect but the best that I've been able to get so far.

Thanks again & best of luck with DI
-Roman

Thanks Roman, glad to hear you were at least able to put a dent in it. If it was working, it's just a matter of keep doing it and doing it until it's gone, but I'm sure it's a PITA at this point.

I appreciate the update.

[pruettfan]

About a year ago when I first got serious about detailing I bought a Porter Cable 7424 XP and had pretty decent results but removing moderate swirls and defects takes significant effort and time. As a result I have considered getting a rotary polisher to deal with these situations. I have recently been reading about the Flex XC 3401 VRG and it appears that this is the best compromise. My question is what your thoughts are? I enjoy detailing and several friends have been bringing their cars by for work which I am happy to do. Would the Flex be a worthwhile investment for a guy like me?

BTW, I buy all of my products from you and must say you have excellent customer service and great products.

[Mimmer]

i have some big rock chips and some visible scratches .... i mistakenly sanded it down with water and applied paint on it then let it set and put the clear coat. but what i noticed was that it had shown a dull mark around the area i was working on when sanding i tried using turtle wax product but the dullness from the sanding only comes back to show.. is there a way i can fix this or is this something out of my hands. i can provide pictures if its not clear in how im explaining it

thanks.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

About a year ago when I first got serious about detailing I bought a Porter Cable 7424 XP and had pretty decent results but removing moderate swirls and defects takes significant effort and time. As a result I have considered getting a rotary polisher to deal with these situations. I have recently been reading about the Flex XC 3401 VRG and it appears that this is the best compromise. My question is what your thoughts are? I enjoy detailing and several friends have been bringing their cars by for work which I am happy to do. Would the Flex be a worthwhile investment for a guy like me?

BTW, I buy all of my products from you and must say you have excellent customer service and great products.

Thanks for the kind words. The Flex XC3401VRG would be the next progression on a random orbital buffer. You'll notice around a 40% increase in power and it also is a dual action machine, meaning it rotates (up to 480 rpms) and oscillates. The downsides of the Flex are you don't have as many pad size options, but if you keep your PC, then you can use that for spot treating areas or tight spots with 4" pads and use either 5.5" or 6.5" pads on the Flex.

If you wanted to take the time to learn the rotary buffer, the Makita 9227C is a great option. This would take longer to learn how to use than the Flex and the risk of damaging the paint is significantly higher, but if you can master the rotary, that will give you the fastest correction with the best depth and gloss. The Flex can achieve ~90% of what the rotary can in a shorter period of time than the PC. The Flex is you best safest option to turn to.

Hope that helps with your decision.

Originally Posted by givemeam3

i have some big rock chips and some visible scratches .... i mistakenly sanded it down with water and applied paint on it then let it set and put the clear coat. but what i noticed was that it had shown a dull mark around the area i was working on when sanding i tried using turtle wax product but the dullness from the sanding only comes back to show.. is there a way i can fix this or is this something out of my hands. i can provide pictures if its not clear in how im explaining it

thanks.

Sounds like you didn't polish out the wet sanding marks. To do so properly, you should use a quality buffer, like the Porter Cable or Flex. If you want to do it by hand, I'd consider looking into some Meguiar's M105 and following this guide to polishing by hand.

Hope this helps clear things up for you.

[Mimmer]

when buffing it do i need to use any products with it or after ?

thanks.