[oVeRdOsE.]

damn I need a quick jack.

[Wingnutts]

Originally Posted by ian3924

Put er up on my new quickjack.

I bought the BL7000 quick jack a couple of months ago. I got the largest one so I can get my 335 and my wife's x5 up in the air. Best money I've spent in a long time!!!!!! Being able to put it together and get the car up in the air in a couple of minutes beats the hell out multiple jacks and then jack stands, and that's just for one end of the car too...

[bimmerfan1972]

So jealous. When I'm bored I have the car on jackstands 2 or 3 times a week.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

On stock turbos, outlets will give you minimal gains. However, it will set you up nicely when you purchase stage 1 or 2 turbos in the future. In addition, you are probably prolonging the life of the OEM turbos by making the system more efficient by allowing more air to travel from the turbos to the FMIC. The turbos do not have to work as hard.

By adding inlets, you are forcing considerably more air in the turbos, but they can not push the hot air out as fast! By adding 2" outlets, you allow the turbos to push the hot air out at about the same rate you are pushing in the cold air.

Turbos create vacuum on the inlet side, nothing is being forced "into" the turbos there. Exhaust gasses from the engine are what is forced in and as they pass over and spin the turbine wheel, this then spins the compressor wheel, which then creates pressure on the outlet side. "Speed", as to how fast the air moves through the inlet/outlet of a turbo, has little, if anything, to do with it. It's all about quantity at pressure, and how much they can produce and at what RPM. The reason that inlets make a difference on N54s is because the stock ones are restrictive and efficiency is improved with aftermarket as far as the quantity of air and how easily it is for the turbo to ingest air. Outlets on stock turbos, on the other hand, aren't as restrictive and are a waste of money. The theory that they prolong turbo life is just that, a theory. Whatever their larger size may provide, the fact that they are larger also means the turbos have to work that much harder as they now have larger chambers that they need to fill and pressurize. This is also why sometimes going with a ridiculously large intercooler can also be counter productive.

[Sav.]

Pulled my crank pulley, was looking to do my front main seal when i came across the infamous n54 issue I never fully believed was possible..

View post on imgur.com

[Serf27]

Did e85 bef flash. What a difference! No more limp modes at high boost and no more kicking me to map 4!
Well I’ve only done a few pulls. Fingers crossed it stays like this.
Also added burbles.

[colorado.e9x]

Painting the stock tips from my 135i muffler that I will be PE modding and retrofitting soon. It came from NY, looks like road salt got the best of them.. Going with satin black. You can still see the pitting but with it being on the bottom side I don't think anyone will notice.

yes I made a paint booth out of a scaffolding, fiber panels, and plywood lol

[Smgs1992]

Installing new boost solenoids hoping this will fix my underboosting overboosting issues.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Painting the stock tips from my 135i muffler that I will be PE modding and retrofitting soon. It came from NY, looks like road salt got the best of them.. Going with satin black. You can still see the pitting but with it being on the bottom side I don't think anyone will notice.

yes I made a paint booth out of a scaffolding, fiber panels, and plywood lol

Sound clip when finished please.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

Sound clip when finished please.

Sure thing! I'll be replacing the resonator with a vibrant and deleting the secondary cats too

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Painting the stock tips from my 135i muffler that I will be PE modding and retrofitting soon. It came from NY, looks like road salt got the best of them.. Going with satin black. You can still see the pitting but with it being on the bottom side I don't think anyone will notice.

yes I made a paint booth out of a scaffolding, fiber panels, and plywood lol

I painted mine and the heat was not kind.

I recently hit them with alumiblast, and thus far it's holding up.

if I wasn't so lazy I'd have sanded them down to remove the pitting and the like and polished them, but I'm so tired of polishing metal.


in related news, fixed my bolt today.





and my lug bolts are in the tumbler to be refinished as well.
and i cleaned up my wheel spacers.

closing in on style 71 summer wheels being finished.

[GRUESOM3]

Not on e90 but since we were on the polishing topic. I did about 6 hours of it yesterday and I'm just a little
Sore today and nowhere near done.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Fr35h

Pulled my crank pulley, was looking to do my front main seal when i came across the infamous n54 issue I never fully believed was possible..

View post on imgur.com

Ouch...

Looks like you are going to be taking the valve cover & oil pan off. If it were me, I'd do the RMS too since you have the motor out.

[335IE90]

Originally Posted by GRUESOM3

Not on e90 but since we were on the polishing topic. I did about 6 hours of it yesterday and I'm just a little
Sore today and nowhere near done.

You running anything special in there? Looks good. Have you ever looked into the AGN valve cover just about flat and would be much easier to polish then those are. They have way to many ridges and bolt holes and other random pointy things sticking out of it.

[GRUESOM3]

Nothing crazy in there just a oldie t3t4 50 trim
Built bottom end 630cc Mafless with all deletes. I did like the agn but I have this cover that covers most of it. This is how it usually looks so I took it all apart and polished everything so I can get a nice shine to it again like in the glory days. I think it's been at least 10 years since I last took out the alternator to repolish.

[335IE90]

Originally Posted by GRUESOM3

Nothing crazy in there just a oldie t3t4 50 trim
Built bottom end 630cc Mafless with all deletes. I did like the agn but I have this cover that covers most of it. This is how it usually looks so I took it all apart and polished everything so I can get a nice shine to it again like in the glory days. I think it's been at least 10 years since I last took out the alternator to repolish.

I have 2 mk4 jettas 1.8t still going to be the kids cars when there older we can build them up. One has an engine in it still with a Frankenturbo 660cc with everything deleted also. I did a shaved bay and started wire tucking it back in 2012 and that's where it's stayed never worked on it again. Then I had a a b5 and a b6 Audi both had the ko4xl those moved pretty good. I have always been a 1.8t guy until now I knew that engine like the back of my hand. Knew what I can get rid of and what did what. Now learning the n55 is a whole different ball game

[GRUESOM3]

Yeah and more expensive too. My first and last turbo car was this 1.8t, after that was all NA and no headache cars but I always had them running pretty good

[Durvelle27]

I changed my headlights, side markers, and grill

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I painted mine and the heat was not kind.

I recently hit them with alumiblast, and thus far it's holding up.

if I wasn't so lazy I'd have sanded them down to remove the pitting and the like and polished them, but I'm so tired of polishing metal.

I'm using VHT rollbar & chassis paint. It's rated at 250° F so I think it'll work okay since they're just tips

[The Nightman]

I replaced the plastic Normaflex 8mm coolant vent line with aluminum tubing as a preventative fix. Mine was still in good shape at 83k miles, but the plastic portion is known to fail.



I used a 12" length of 5/16" OD 6061-T6 aluminum tubing with 0.049" wall thickness (K&S Precision Metals 83062). 12" is on the short side but will work - I recommend 14" if available. I chose to use aluminum to prevent any potential galvanic corrosion.



To prevent the hoses from slipping off the tubing, I used a double-flare tool to put a "bead" on the tube ends. This is done by partially doing the first stage of the double-flare.

I replaced the Oetiker clamps with spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps over hose clamps as they maintain constant pressure during expansion and contraction.



The factory plastic tube has aluminum barbs at the end but the tube is a thin plastic, much like a drink straw.



Cheap and easy job. Removing the factory plastic tube was a bit of a pain though. I lost no coolant and did not have to bleed the cooling system afterwards.

[F13.KENN]

Finally fixed my headache of o2 sensor issues. After a longgg time, figure out a Dp fix was installed by a previous owner and didnt take it out when he put stock downpipes in. They also wired it wrong so i kept getting an o2 mix up code.

Thought i fully fixed it a few weeks ago but it was still wired wrong. Swapped 2 pins for the o2s today and also reset all adaptations.

Car drives amazing now. There's obviously more power and its a lot smoother now. Wouldnt like to spin before but now it spins if i break boost from 30mph in 2nd gear.

[Nickco43]

I am full DIYing a CA retrofit on my blue car. 95% of the wiring is done and the CA key starts the car and the passenger side door handle work! I still am waiting for my drivers side handle.