[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the pump is 100% mechanical.

Sure that the alternator was actually bad and it wasn't a steering oil soaked belt slipping?

Alternator was completely dead yeah, no problems with the new one. I didn't see any leaks, belt was dry. I wonder what it could be

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by dakine_surf

Can't wait to hear it, you know I'll be following suit

Updates coming later today!

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Alternator was completely dead yeah, no problems with the new one. I didn't see any leaks, belt was dry. I wonder what it could be

I would jack it up and then try to bleed the rack. was it driven without the belt?
other than that, there's not much to it. pump makes pressure, rack works or it doesn't.

[tcphoto]

I replaced the front right ABS sensor, started it up and the warning lights disappeared.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I would jack it up and then try to bleed the rack. was it driven without the belt?
other than that, there's not much to it. pump makes pressure, rack works or it doesn't.

Will do. And no he kept the belt on. It was weird, used a jump box once to try and start it up before he got the new alternator and one of the pulleys had to have been seized. Belt started squealing like a banshee followed by tons of smoke. For whatever reason it never did that again though.

[335IE90]

Is the belt set correctly as far as direction

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by bmdubya1198

That came out incredibly well! I've never tried that stuff, buy now I'm interested.

Yeah, he and I had messaged back and forth about the possibility after I posted about installing a saddle brown steering wheel cover on my Corvette. His car and mine both have/had the OEM "Light Oak" (tan) interior. He jumped in feet first and it is stunning.

While this is something I might consider in time, probably not right now. In my case, I redid my seat covers (in tan and black) only a few years ago and they are still in really good shape whereas his were the OEM 20-year-old originals. Plus I've put new wheels and tires on both my E91 and the Corvette this year, so my wife's car mods tolerance is near the red line for the time being.

[colorado.e9x]

I hope so. He re used the old belt. Wish he replaced it, that belts a little shredded. In addition to all of his problems his cluster displays a yellow exclamation point in ACC mode and nothing works on the BC stalk. BC works once the car is running.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Yeah, he and I had messaged back and forth about the possibility after I posted about installing a saddle brown steering wheel cover on my Corvette. His car and mine both have/had the OEM "Light Oak" (tan) interior. He jumped in feet first and it is stunning.

While this is something I might consider in time, probably not right now. In my case, I redid my seat covers (in tan and black) only a few years ago and they are still in really good shape whereas his were the OEM 20-year-old originals. Plus I've put new wheels and tires on both my E91 and the Corvette this year, so my wife's car mods tolerance is near the red line for the time being.

I just watched the fibrenew video on the ammo nyx channel.

If I can find the bulk dye, I will do my entire e91 interior with a spray gun.

I'm thinking black above the dash, saddle brown below.
since bavaria cursed me with this black dashboard two tone nonsense.
three colors in my dash because BMW is cheap.

[S65Hunter]

Originally Posted by P14kle

Fitted my Provent 200 Oil seperator to my 320d
Was abit tricky due to lack of space fitting Inlet and Outlet hoses to the original take offs etc but I am happy with the final result OEM kinda look I think. 😎

Is it a car for ants?

[ian3924]

Was driving on borrowed time...

[porsche959]

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ian3924

Was driving on borrowed time...

Did you catch it before some of the belt got sucked into crank shaft seal?

[ian3924]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Did you catch it before some of the belt got sucked into crank shaft seal?

I actually replaced it just because the metal strands were showing once it was off the pulleys then the splits showed. Luckily 99% of the material was still on the belt so I think im safe. Tomorrow gonna try that liqui moly valve seal conditioner you've mentioned, fingers crossed.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ian3924

I actually replaced it just because the metal strands were showing once it was off the pulleys then the splits showed. Luckily 99% of the material was still on the belt so I think im safe. Tomorrow gonna try that liqui moly valve seal conditioner you've mentioned, fingers crossed.

Yep, belts & pulleys usually need to be replaced every 60 to 100,000 miles. Just depends on how you drive it & where you live. Hot & humid weather for example doesn't do rubber parts any favors.

Also, remember fill 6.5 qts of 5w-40 & two cans of the Liqui-moly no smoke. Maybe drive it 5000 miles and repeat the process. It sometimes takes two treatments.

[Boosted12a]

Replaced my lpfp sensor. Had a code for faulty sensor but no light. Didn't seem to change how it drove. Now I just need to figure out this injector plauasability code and I will be code free!

[Boosted12a]

Got rid of the peaky 30be code. I replaced my injectors a month or two ago and I've had the code ever since. I re coded the injectors and reset adaptations in protool. The numbers remained the same after coding so I have no idea what was causing it. Code is gone. Drove about 50 miles and it's still not back. Before it showed up soon as I started the car. It didn't have any driving issues with the code and it drives the same now. It just erked me having the code

[ky0u]

Replaced vac lines again, this time with silicon. I got it in red because I heard it adds an extra 2hp per segment.

[vilord]

I heard it was a 2hp boost per foot!

[Soden82]

Originally Posted by ky0u

Replaced vac lines again, this time with silicon. I got it in red because I heard it adds an extra 2hp per segment.

I'm in the middle of doing mine (in blue). Having a terrible time trying to get to the lines on the wastegates. Any tips?

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by vilord

I heard it was a 2hp boost per foot!

Oh darn, gonna have to extend each hose segment by 3 feet now, even the small part between the 2 solenoids are getting a 3 foot hose

Originally Posted by Soden82

I'm in the middle of doing mine (in blue). Having a terrible time trying to get to the lines on the wastegates. Any tips?

Likely nothing you havent already figured out but:

Unbolt the whole bracket holding the 2 vac tanks. it'll let you wiggle your hand to reach the front WG connection

For the rear WG, keep your hand flat and you'll be able to wiggle into the gap between the washer filler neck and the engine



Don't try to use your eyes while installing the hose, it's much easier by feel.

But do take a quick look before sticking your hands in to help visualize what your hands feel when they are in there. You're looking for 2 things:

Rear Turbo:
You'll see a sort of round tab about 1.5" wide. The nipple is just to the right of this tab. So when you stick your hand in to attach the hose, reach for the tab first. Then slide over right and you'll immediately find the connection point


Front turbo:
You'll see the WG actuator. The connection point is just to the right and slightly to the front (front being the bumper). So same as the Rear turbo, when you reach in, feel for the actuator, then move your hand accordingly


If you have bigger hands, this may be a bit trickier of a task

[Soden82]

Originally Posted by ky0u

Oh darn, gonna have to extend each hose segment by 3 feet now, even the small part between the 2 solenoids are getting a 3 foot hose

Likely nothing you havent already figured out but:

Unbolt the whole bracket holding the 2 vac tanks. it'll let you wiggle your hand to reach the front WG connection

For the rear WG, keep your hand flat and you'll be able to wiggle into the gap between the washer filler neck and the engine



Don't try to use your eyes while installing the hose, it's much easier by feel.

But do take a quick look before sticking your hands in to help visualize what your hands feel when they are in there. You're looking for 2 things:

Rear Turbo:
You'll see a sort of round tab about 1.5" wide. The nipple is just to the right of this tab. So when you stick your hand in to attach the hose, reach for the tab first. Then slide over right and you'll immediately find the connection point


Front turbo:
You'll see the WG actuator. The connection point is just to the right and slightly to the front (front being the bumper). So same as the Rear turbo, when you reach in, feel for the actuator, then move your hand accordingly


If you have bigger hands, this may be a bit trickier of a task

Awesome, thank you for that. My hands are generally on the bigger side, so I might have a bit of trouble. I have the canisters removed to help ease my hand where the turbos are