[Three_thirty_I]

Maybe they goofed the repair as you say - this is what happened to a friend of mine with his 325i, the crank pulley had snapped and it was causing the sprocket for the timing chain to oscillate or it was simply not correctly aligned for proper timing, but it was a very rough idle as you can see in his vid:

[alx.]

Mine's a bit similar to that! I hope we get this fixed

[Three_thirty_I]

I hope you do get this sorted out!

[alx.]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

I hope you do get this sorted out!

He believes it's the fuel pump, it sort of makes sense since the air mass error is due to a mixture problem fuel/air.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by alx.

He believes it's the fuel pump, it sort of makes sense since the air mass error is due to a mixture problem fuel/air.

Have him perform a pressure test and bleed test on the fuel system - that will tell you if you have a fuel pump or regulator issue.

[alx.]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

Have him perform a pressure test and bleed test on the fuel system - that will tell you if you have a fuel pump or regulator issue.

The regulator and the pump are two separate units?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by alx.

The regulator and the pump are two separate units?

Yes, pump on the one side and regulator on the other side. Check here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...BMW-325i&mg=16

[tdavis42]

After a morning of hard driving I could smell gas the second I stepped out of my car and took it in to find it was the fuel regulator. It didn't solve any of my problems with low idle. It wasn't cheap so I only did the one part but if you can get both the pump and regulator done at once it will save you some headache in the long run. If you are comfortable working with gas and gas lines it is a really easy job as these parts are right under the back seat. All you need to do is pull up the back seat and unscrew a plate and one side is the regulator and other is a pump.

On a side note i switched my vanos solenoids this AM and that made a huge difference in my idle. It now sits at 750 P, R, N, and D. Also AC on and off. I had replaced the exhaust solenoid a few months ago after getting a limp mode and error and didn't think to place the new solenoid in the intake spot and put the old one in the exhaust. The only problem is now I know my exhaust solenoid is going and I need to spend more $$$ to replace it. It also improved acceleration from a stand still by quite a bit.

[alx.]

Fair enough, he said he s 90% it s the pump. Since i have the car it happened twice for the car to lose power under acceleration as if the fuel failed to be supplied to the injectors, as i was pressing the gas pedal the car would stutter and jerk.

I am in greece right now on vacation but i can t wait to get home and fix this issue.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by alx.

Fair enough, he said he s 90% it s the pump.

Could also be the low pressure pump controller. I had a similar intermittent hesitation issue which was cured by fitting a new controller...

[alx.]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Could also be the low pressure pump controller. I had a similar intermittent hesitation issue which was cured by fitting a new controller...

Already ordered the new pump, i understood that if the regulator was the problem i would have long cranks, the car fires up perfectly but it idles very rough after the start and at stop lights, as if it's starved of fuel. I didn't drive it for two weeks and when i got back and drove it it almost stalled on me twice while in traffic.

The new Pierburg pump should be here tomorrow or tuesday and i'll keep this thread updated.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by alx.

Already ordered the new pump, i understood that if the regulator was the problem i would have long cranks, the car fires up perfectly but it idles very rough after the start and at stop lights, as if it's starved of fuel. I didn't drive it for two weeks and when i got back and drove it it almost stalled on me twice while in traffic.

The new Pierburg pump should be here tomorrow or tuesday and i'll keep this thread updated.

Control unit is not the same thing as the regulator. See here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0598

[alx.]

Installed the Pierburg pump and i'll come back with updates.

[alx.]

Well, i guess it's time i put the car up for sale. Pump didn't do anything, there are still holes in acceleration and the car nearly stalls at stoplights(sometimes)

[PhaseP]

See my recent DIY post, all you need could be getting better connection to the MAF:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1304563

[alx.]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

See my recent DIY post, all you need could be getting better connection to the MAF:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1304563

Thank you, might give it a shot. Mine looks exactly the same. Is it hard to replace?

[PhaseP]

Easiest to try would be to try to clean the electrical pins both on the sensor and the connector first without opening up the connector housing and removing the pins one by one like I did.

You do need a good electrical contact cleaner spray, not just electronics/electrical cleaner. I wrote in the DIY what I had I hand and used. You can find others.

Just disconnect from the sensor and spray the sensor connection pins and the connector pins from the holes with the cleaner good. Then give it a try.

You can also try wrapping an electrical tape to press down the connector to the sensor body for good connection after that. See if those give some promise.

In my case when I first started suspecting that electrical connection I just wiggled the connector in place and pushed in hard to get it good seat. It did fix the problem for a few days, then it came back probably because it got lose by driving vibration.

It is not hard to replace the connector housing (the main body) at all. Just need a small flat screw driver or something similar, and a paper clip.

Ideal fix would be replacing the pins on the connector side also. That would be a bit more difficult, they are crimped to the wires. Still doable though, but for me just thorough cleaning them with contact cleaner and new housing was enough. So far.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by alx.

Fair enough, he said he s 90% it s the pump. Since i have the car it happened twice for the car to lose power under acceleration as if the fuel failed to be supplied to the injectors, as i was pressing the gas pedal the car would stutter and jerk.

I am in greece right now on vacation but i can t wait to get home and fix this issue.

How did he determine that there was a problem with the fuel pump, that he was 90% sure it was the pump? Again, sorry to hear of another part that hasn't solved the main problem - I know the feeling!!

I would definitely try and clean those plug pins for the MAF and see if that helps.

[alx.]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

How did he determine that there was a problem with the fuel pump, that he was 90% sure it was the pump? Again, sorry to hear of another part that hasn't solved the main problem - I know the feeling!!

I would definitely try and clean those plug pins for the MAF and see if that helps.

In Romania it's very difficult to find competent mechanics that can verify fuel pressure OR that even know how to use a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks. I actually believed it was the pump since the car would randomly cut off fuel.

I'm guessing the fuel filter and regulator are one part on this car, but i don't want to throw more money on it to fix it.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by alx.

In Romania it's very difficult to find competent mechanics that can verify fuel pressure OR that even know how to use a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks. I actually believed it was the pump since the car would randomly cut off fuel.

I'm guessing the fuel filter and regulator are one part on this car, but i don't want to throw more money on it to fix it.

Here's how they would test the fuel pressure just out of interest:

I find that I am in the same boar over here with regards to finding decently knowledgeable BMW specialists that A, won't rip me off, and B, actually fix the problems. It's very frustrating.

[alx.]

Taking out the intake manifold to check for leaks on wednesday, perhaps it's cracked and i will also inspect the DISA valves as i also suspect them,

[PhaseP]

Dude you had 2D06 code right? That indicates either faulty Maf sensor or electrical connection to it is bad. My understanding this code means computer received a value from sensor that corresponds way too much air , like impossible amount. You in the past replaced your sensor and didn't cute it. So why don't you try the most obvious clean or replace your electrical connector?