[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Can you send me a log of your 3rd gear at WOT including your car weight, I want to plug it into virtual dyno.

Don't have the car back yet, will generate a file when I get a chance though.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Unless someone left a brick in the stock pipe, it simply isn't going to gain 10hp.

Yeah, I know, it's seemingly impossible. I was present and watched the runs, the other tech visually verified the rear roller was getting cleared enough that it wasn't altering measurements at any point.

It's likely adaptation could have increased output enough without the intake change to minimize the difference, I've no idea but it appears to have been happening before the change took place and obviously afterward as well. So it's difficult to determine the exact difference it alone could contribute.

Again I have to say this is unique to my car and I'd be really surprised if anyone else saw similar results without the same flow path. Maybe it's most accurate to say the coated and wrapped headers along with the silicone intake and the AA stage 3 tune contributed to the 219rwhp figure the DynoDynamic generated. It's anybody's call as to which is responsible for what portion. Regardless though it's peculiar, I won't argue that.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yeah, I know, it's seemingly impossible. I was present and watched the runs, the other tech visually verified the rear roller was getting cleared enough that it wasn't altering measurements at any point.

It's likely adaptation could have increased output enough without the intake change to minimize the difference, I've no idea but it appears to have been happening before the change took place and obviously afterward as well. So it's difficult to determine the exact difference it alone could contribute.

Again I have to say this is unique to my car and I'd be really surprised if anyone else saw similar results without the same flow path. Maybe it's most accurate to say the coated and wrapped headers along with the silicone intake and the AA stage 3 tune contributed to the 219rwhp figure the DynoDynamic generated. It's anybody's call as to which is responsible for what portion. Regardless though it's peculiar, I won't argue that.

Generally when doing pulls, the second and third set give much better numbers than the first. Just my experience.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Generally when doing pulls, the second and third set give much better numbers than the first. Just my experience.

Agreed. There were three baseline runs and three runs with the new intake. The difference between the second runs is ~8hp and between the third runs ~9hp.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Agreed. There were three baseline runs and three runs with the new intake. The difference between the second runs is ~8hp and between the third runs ~9hp.

If you go back again, you should swap it back to stock on the 2nd or 3rd run grouping.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

If you go back again, you should swap it back to stock on the 2nd or 3rd run grouping.

Makes sense but the OE part went in the trash. And I really didn't want to turn it into too much of science experiment since dyno and tech time ain't cheap. Someone else will have to go about teasing out the different contributions, makes for a tedious bit of experimenting though but it'd be interesting, I agree.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Makes sense but the OE part went in the trash. And I really didn't want to turn it into too much of science experiment since dyno and tech time ain't cheap. Someone else will have to go about teasing out the different contributions, makes for a tedious bit of experimenting though but it'd be interesting, I agree.

If someone wants to shoot one my way for testing, I should be doing more pulls in the fall.

[Tom Droze]

I have a 9:30 dyno appointment on Saturday to establish a baseline. Time permitting, I'll install the hose and go back for a follow-up dyno run. My mods thus far include a Dinan ram air intake, AFE dry element air filter, and a PE exhaust. I want to drive the car around prior to the second dyno run to give the ECU a chance to adjust.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

I have a 9:30 dyno appointment on Saturday to establish a baseline. Time permitting, I'll install the hose and go back for a follow-up dyno run. My mods thus far include a Dinan ram air intake, AFE dry element air filter, and a PE exhaust. I want to drive the car around prior to the second dyno run to give the ECU a chance to adjust.

Should do the same with taking it off again.

[Taskmaster]

Can't wait, an actual dyno of the Dinan - I anticipate a solid gain in low end torque.

[MarkkyyMan]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

I have a 9:30 dyno appointment on Saturday to establish a baseline. Time permitting, I'll install the hose and go back for a follow-up dyno run. My mods thus far include a Dinan ram air intake, AFE dry element air filter, and a PE exhaust. I want to drive the car around prior to the second dyno run to give the ECU a chance to adjust.

Adjustment can take up to 40-50 miles.

[Taskmaster]

Use a cable/computer to reset adaptations.

[Tom Droze]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Use a cable/computer to reset adaptations.

I don't have that ability so I'll drive 50 miles instead.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

I don't have that ability so I'll drive 50 miles instead.

Software is free if you have a cable and Laptop.

[Mike.]

mine comes tomorrow..woot!

[jc5988]

Hey OP or guys already got the hose

Installing the hose right now, but the throttle body end of the hose seems a bit loose, will this be ok once i clamp it down??

no need force at all to insert this end, the air box end snugs in perfectly.

[TittoBlunt]

Once you clamp it down, it's pretty secure. You get very little, if any, movement.

[PHXE90]

Originally Posted by jc5988

Hey OP or guys already got the hose

Installing the hose right now, but the throttle body end of the hose seems a bit loose, will this be ok once i clamp it down??

no need force at all to insert this end, the air box end snugs in perfectly.

Yes, the hose clamp takes care of it!

[PHXE90]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

If someone wants to shoot one my way for testing, I should be doing more pulls in the fall.

For $60 someone will shoot you one today!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121390771744...ewitem&vxp=mtr

[Volasko]

Just my 2 Cents:
After reading the N52 tech manual I came across a section about how our electronic water pumps have 4 different profiles that change the engine temperature depending on the driving situation. I have copied the relevant section for accuracy:

The coolant pump also operates differently than conventional pumps when controlling the engine temperature. To date, only the currently applied temperature could be controlled by the thermostat. The software in the engine control unit now features a calculation model that can take into account the development of the cylinder head temperature based on load.In addition to the characteristic map control of the thermostat, the heat management system makes it possible to use various maps for the purpose of controlling the coolant pump. For instance, the engine control unit can adapt the engine temperature to match the current driving situation.This means that four different temperature ranges can be implemented:

112°C ECO mode (economy)
105°C Normal mode
95°C High mode
80°C High + mapped thermostat mode

The coolant control sets a higher cylinder head temperature (112°C) if the engine control unit determines ECO mode based on the current operating conditions.The engine is operated with relatively low fuel consumption in this temperature range as the internal friction is reduced.An increase in temperature therefore favors lower fuel consumption in the low load range. In HIGH and mapped thermostat mode, the driver wishes to utilize the optimum power development of the engine. The cylinder head temperature is therefore reduced to 80°C.This results in improved volumetric efficiency, thus increasing the engine torque. The engine control unit can therefore set a certain operating mode adapted to the respective driving situation. Consequently, it is possible to influence fuel consumption and power output by means of the cooling system.

I suspect what you are seeing on the dyno could be caused by this, ie) the engine temperatures were hotter the first few runs (engine was in ECO mode for example) --> after a few WOT runs the CPU changed the setpoint to High + mapped mode to lower the intake temperature to improve the volumetric efficiency (improved torque) --> the increasing gains you saw was the water temperatures slowly dropping to meet setpoint, by the last run the engine temperature was the coldest making the most power.

Just a thought

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by PHXE90

For $60 someone will shoot you one today!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121390771744...ewitem&vxp=mtr

Nope.

[uncle ben]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Nope.

I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for someone to send you stuff for free.