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      04-15-2017, 10:10 PM   #111
bradsm87
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Originally Posted by DiffLab View Post
You made this public. You dragged me; an innocent party far removed from this issue; through the mud. You have tarnished my name and my reputation. I offered to help you out of sympathy, and offered you my charity. You could use it. And this is how you treat me. Instead of targeting the person who assembled your diff, you are targeting anyone within line of sight. The fact is: you two amateurs assembled a grenade and it exploded. You cannot take any chances with a ball bearing diff. I repair these units every week, and I know how bad they are. There is skill involved in building a ball bearing diff. It’s not a job for you and your brother, both of whom have nil experience with these.

If you think the pre-load was excellent- tell me what it was and how you set it. This will be good…
I really wanted to leave it but you've asked another question.

Firstly, the only issue I've had and the only thing that's been brought to attention since we agreed on a repair process weeks ago was you ignoring my attempts to touch base for an update. Last time I left it 2 full weeks before trying once a day to call you. Your delibrate ignoring is what makes you not look good and you brought that on yourself.

I think you're one of the best diff builders in the country and your work is top-notch. I have never said otherwise. Workmanship is only one part of being reputable. There are also things such as communication. Answering a weekly call for an update or returning a friendly voicemail asking how things are going would go a long way.

I'm not in front of a computer at the moment and I don't want to spend any more time hunting around for links, but the vast majority of BMW LSD installs before tapered side bearings were readily available all do the same in terms of side bearing preload. Once everything's tight and seated hard, the shim should go back in with some extra pressure but nothing extreme. It should not fall in and it should not need hard pressing. Ours was just like this, like the many, many installs like this. I think it's great that you work to very tight, measured tolerances for side bearing preload but the fact is that most diff assemblers don't go that far. It's great that you do. The type of differences in preload that we're talking about here are far less than the variance that happens over the lifetime of the car. Is it possible to get a little less noise or wear a couple of hundred thousand kilometres later - sure. Will this type of variance cause all havoc to break loose 10000km later at the same time as a bunch of bolts fall out and mash up (but the bolts having nothing to do with it) - absolutely not. This part of the discussion should have been left behind when I agreed to just pay.

The fact of the matter is that the chaos caused within the diff, including a jammed bolt putting severe upward pressure on the pumpkin that has had its bolts fall out in addition to bolts jamming into the gearset once the car has built up some momentum will cause way more tolerance and alignment issues than any small variance in side bearing preload.

As I said, I agreed to pay based on your assessment anyway and we had an agreement on getting it fixed and me paying for some of the stuff which stood for three weeks until just now you've backed out and I'll get my diff back unrepaired. The cause debate just needs to stop.

Last edited by bradsm87; 04-15-2017 at 10:18 PM..
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      04-15-2017, 10:30 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
I really wanted to leave it but you've asked another question.

Firstly, the only issue I've had and the only thing that's been brought to attention since we agreed on a repair process weeks ago was you ignoring my attempts to touch base for an update. Last time I left it 2 full weeks before trying once a day to call you. Your delibrate ignoring is what makes you not look good and you brought that on yourself.

I think you're one of the best diff builders in the country and your work is top-notch. I have never said otherwise. Workmanship is only one part of being reputable. There are also things such as communication. Answering a weekly call for an update or returning a friendly voicemail asking how things are going would go a long way.

I'm not in front of a computer at the moment and I don't want to spend any more time hunting around for links, but the vast majority of BMW LSD installs before tapered side bearings were readily available all do the same in terms of side bearing preload. Once everything's tight and seated hard, the shim should go back in with some light extra pressure. It should not fall in and it should not need hard pressing. Ours was just like this, like the many, many installs like this. I think it's great that you work to very tight, measured tolerances but the fact is that most diff assemblers don't go that far. It's great that you do. The type of differences in preload that we're talking about here are far less than the variance that happens over the lifetime of the car. The fact of the matter is that the chaos caused within the diff, including a jammed bolt putting severe upward pressure on the pumpkin that has had its bolts fall out in addition to bolts jamming into the gearset once the car has built up some momentum will cause way more tolerance and alignment issues than any small variance in side bearing preload.

As I said, I agreed to pay based on your assessment anyway and we had an agreement on getting it fixed and me paying for some of the stuff which stood for three weeks until just now you've backed out and I'll get my diff back unrepaired. The cause debate just needs to stop.
You created a situation for yourself whereby you became a ball-breaker, who blamed everyone but himself for his misfortune. You hammered me with long Emails about why I was wrong about every little thing. You just wanted money, and for someone to pay for your mistake. You were convinced that you could get a pile of cash from MFactory, which was never going to happen. You got so bad that I had to withdraw from it all. I offered you free assistance, which you accepted, and not once did you offer to pay. I told you that you might have to pay for gear lapping, which I have to outsource, and that is all. You accepted free parts and labour, which was very generously offered by me: someone who has nil to do with this entire situation and only offered to help out of sympathy. Despite the fact that you’re receiving charity, you have extremely high expectations related to the volume of your crap I should have to put up with. You’re getting the job done for free. A job which has nothing to do with me. It doesn’t come with my undivided attention and patience for your behaviour, which has been an appalling blame-game and money-grab since day #1. You threatened social media action since day #1 and now here it is. With your countdowns and time limits. You're a menace.

Why do I need to participate in this absurd rubbish between you and an LSD manufacturer? Why do I need to keep spending hours communicating with you? In fact, why do I need to do anything for you at all? You're not a customer and never have been. You're a nightmare which I cannot wake up from. I shouldn't have agreed to help you. In doing so I signed up to something which I wish I could escape from. I agreed to help you by rebuilding your dodgy diff for free. I didn't agree to cop all of this from you, which started the same day I agreed to help. You accepted my offer, and immediately went on a tirade. This here, what you are doing right now, is what you have been doing since day #1. You’re full of threats. You’re always right. Someone else is wrong. Someone else screwed you over. You’ve done everything right. You want money. You want compensation. You want courtesy calls. You want people’s time for free. You just don’t stop. To this very moment, you have not stopped. You’re still going. I feel like you would just go on forever, until you last breath, cursing the world.

You are completely off with your explanation of setting ball bearing pre-load. This is why your diff failed. It is crystal clear.

Yes, this needs to stop, so stop. You’re nothing but a whinger and this is nothing but an outward display of blame which needs to be directed inward for a change. You've now made a public disgrace of yourself.
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      04-15-2017, 10:42 PM   #113
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I got so bad that you had to withdraw from it all? 3 weeks ago I was angry about the whole situation. I said sorry I was angry. We got past that and agreed on a way forward. Since then, all I have done is occasionally tried to make contact to see how it's going, leaving three friendly voicemails over the course of that 3 weeks and around 5 SMS messages of the same nature. Not sure how that's getting so bad.

Anyway, we're both on the same page as to what's happening from here so no need to keep going with this and I look forward to getting the unrepaired diff and replacement MFactory parts from you so I can go from there. It would make sense to wait till we get the MFactory parts tracking number so you can send the diff and replacement capsule together.

Cheers,

Brad
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      04-15-2017, 10:53 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
I got so bad that you had to withdraw from it all? 3 weeks ago I was angry about the whole situation. I said sorry I was angry. We got past that and agreed on a way forward. Since then, all I have done is occasionally tried to make contact to see how it's going, leaving three friendly voicemails over the course of that 3 weeks and around 5 SMS messages of the same nature. Not sure how that's getting so bad.

Anyway, we're both on the same page as to what's happening from here so no need to keep going with this and I look forward to getting the unrepaired diff and replacement MFactory parts from you so I can go from there. It would make sense to wait till we get the MFactory parts tracking number so you can send the diff and replacement capsule together.

Cheers,

Brad
No, you got past it. I am not past it. I think you're a pain-in-the-arse and I want nothing to do with you. You've been a nightmare since the first Email. No, I am sending this pile of crap back at my expense on Tuesday morning and that is the end of my charity. You've made a permanent and public record of this whole incident in numerous public forums, so you no longer exist in my world. There will be no consideration given to you, by me, for any reason. You have dragged me; a wholly innocent party; through this sh!t storm you created, and you are not forgiven. You don’t just decide that you’re not pissed off any more, and that the people you’ve wronged must then be OK with that. You’ve done the damage, and I am done with you. By the looks of it, you have burned your bridge with MFactory also. They offered you replacement parts and cash, but you always wanted more. I offered you free labour. You had it all. Now you're on your own.

Last edited by DiffLab; 04-15-2017 at 10:54 PM.. Reason: typo
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      06-29-2017, 07:36 AM   #115
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I am a business owner and regardless of if you were right or wrong won cares you were getting new bearings if you read this thread it was stated before your 10hr threat and I can't belive you even posted anything about difflab all he did was help and you weren't a customer I would just read this whole thread like I did and see what it looks like maybe the emails show different but you were getting everything you asked for except accountability.
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      06-29-2017, 05:21 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by Rob09msport View Post
I am a business owner and regardless of if you were right or wrong won cares you were getting new bearings if you read this thread it was stated before your 10hr threat and I can't belive you even posted anything about difflab all he did was help and you weren't a customer I would just read this whole thread like I did and see what it looks like maybe the emails show different but you were getting everything you asked for except accountability.
Hi. This discussion is well and truly over but I had big issues with communication and I had no idea what was going on and could not get any calls or texts returned at all (and I only tried to make contact once every couple of days). Your mention of "all he did was help" unfortunately is not correct. Yes in the beginning I did mention to MFactory that this person advised that there probably isn't a bolt issue. I was never, ever blaming that person for me not doing the recall straight away. That person took it as some sort of threat to his never-wrong self and from that point made every effort against me. Firstly with an email saying it's the diff builder's responsibility to check the torque of the bolts used to assemble the LSD in the factory. Secondly, by trying to say that "incorrect carrier bearing preload" caused the wear to all bearings and one carrier bearing outer race to spin and not even acknowledging the metal throughout the oil and metail coils from the bolts digging out the bottom of the housing was obviously the actual cause. He then lied and said that the carrier bearings are sealed on the inside making it impossible for debris to get in, which I went along with at the time because I couldn't remember for sure if that was right or not. He also didn't ever acknowledge that the metal debris in the oil stuffed the pinion bearings. He just said something along of the lines of "your pinion bearings will be a bit noisy" but delibrately witheld the cause so that it doesn't point to MFactory. My diff builder has since laughed al the "incorrect carrier preload" cause theory that ignored the metal debris.

You mentioned "you were getting new bearings". I was going to be charged for them. I agreed to pay for them because I didn't want to argue and I just needed my car going. Never once did MFactory offer to replace the damaged bearings, not even the pinion bearings of which there was absolutely no doubt from any party that the metal debris caused. I could not even get MFactory to provide these bearings at a discount.

After I struggled to get in contact with this dealer for weeks and I was extremely concerned and had no idea what was happening, people were starting to ask me how it's going on a private FB group. I shared the issues I was having with lack of communication. At that point, the dealer backed out of our arrangement and sent my diff back in pieces.

For the next month, I was following up my case with a new contact, "MFactory AU" because MFactory said this is who I need to talk to since I'm in Australia. He was a friendly guy but never did anything useful. Just stalled me constantly in the hope I'll just go away. At that point, all I was wanting was to buy the bearings at a reasonable price and yet he stalled me and stalled me for weeks and weeks sayin yep he'll get it organised etc. and after wasting my time for all that time, he sends me a quote for more than full retail price, totalling $1350. At that point I gave up and bought everything I need from a great guy in the UK for considerably cheaper in all of about 10 minutes!

Last edited by bradsm87; 06-29-2017 at 05:41 PM..
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      06-29-2017, 06:39 PM   #117
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What a nightmare, at least you've sourced some new bearings. But since the ring and pinion have been chewed up they'd need to be replaced as well? Surely you'd need a new pumpkin at that point?

Did you end up getting tapered or stuck with the stock style roller bearings? Wouldn't mind having a contact for some new bearings as I might need to source some in the future for some projects. I understand they're not that easy to get a hold of.
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      06-29-2017, 06:54 PM   #118
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What a nightmare, at least you've sourced some new bearings. But since the ring and pinion have been chewed up they'd need to be replaced as well? Surely you'd need a new pumpkin at that point?

Did you end up getting tapered or stuck with the stock style roller bearings? Wouldn't mind having a contact for some new bearings as I might need to source some in the future for some projects. I understand they're not that easy to get a hold of.
The gears look good. That must be some damn hard metal!

I got a tapered roller pinion bearing conversion kit (uses M3 bearings), tapered roller carrier bearings, carrier bearing shims, seals and a pinion nut spanner from bearingkits.co.uk . He has more stuff available than what's on his web site. The entire process took 10 minutes. He replied to emails within 2 minutes then I called him with credit card details and the stuff shipped the following day. The guy was an absolute legend. It took me over 3 weeks just to get a price from "MFactory AU" in comparison.
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      06-29-2017, 07:26 PM   #119
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I was thinking about getting an LSD for mine, but this seems ugly. I heard that Drexler is the way to go, anyone heard about this? Or had any experience?
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      06-29-2017, 07:33 PM   #120
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I was thinking about getting an LSD for mine, but this seems ugly. I heard that Drexler is the way to go, anyone heard about this? Or had any experience?
Drexler seem to only do clutch type LSDs. Torsen/helical ones are generally considered the way to go for a street driven car but clutch type are still really good. I had a Nismo clutch type LSD in my S14 and the factory helical in tbe S15 and the helical was smoother while still preventing single-pegging. Options for our cars include Wavetrac, Quaife and MFactory to my knowledge.
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      06-29-2017, 07:51 PM   #121
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Awesome, thanks Bradsman. I am not pumping out huge power (yet), just on MHD Stage 2... chasing an intercooler now. Wagner I hear is best. Then I know I will need some diff work.
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      06-29-2017, 07:57 PM   #122
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The gears look good. That must be some damn hard metal!

I got a tapered roller pinion bearing conversion kit (uses M3 bearings), tapered roller carrier bearings, carrier bearing shims, seals and a pinion nut spanner from bearingkits.co.uk . He has more stuff available than what's on his web site. The entire process took 10 minutes. He replied to emails within 2 minutes then I called him with credit card details and the stuff shipped the following day. The guy was an absolute legend. It took me over 3 weeks just to get a price from "MFactory AU" in comparison.
Thats good, these guys have the shim circlips as well, they're certainly not cheap from difflab. How do you know what preload to put on the bearing? You could measure the rolling torque but you'll be using tapered bearings instead so the torque would be different?
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      06-29-2017, 08:08 PM   #123
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Thats good, these guys have the shim circlips as well, they're certainly not cheap from difflab. How do you know what preload to put on the bearing? You could measure the rolling torque but you'll be using tapered bearings instead so the torque would be different?
The diff builder generally determines it based on experience with other diffs of similar size and the intended use of the diff. Because BMW only sell diffs complete, I don't believe they publish any such specs (eg an E46 188K has roller bearings I think). It's measured using breakaway torque (torque required to get it rolling from a stop). In my case, my diff builder is very happy with the preload using the stock circlips. To get backlash right, one of the circlips were ground down and the exact amount that was ground off was added with a shim on the other side. I have a mate that has access to a magnetic bench grinder so instead of the pricier complete circlip and shim set, I went with a shim set to be used in conjunction with stock circlips and grind the circlips if needed.

Last edited by bradsm87; 06-29-2017 at 08:17 PM..
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      06-29-2017, 11:10 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Thats good, these guys have the shim circlips as well, they're certainly not cheap from difflab. How do you know what preload to put on the bearing? You could measure the rolling torque but you'll be using tapered bearings instead so the torque would be different?
I'd contact a bearing manufacturer they'd know for sure! (BMW would get this info from their suppliers anyhow)

I had a good contact @ SKF one of their engineers was great I have a bookshelf of bearing specs, catalogs etc that he hooked me up with (engineering grade bearings) and was extremely knowledgeable and passionate about bearings lubrication etc

alternatively give me the bearing specs and I can look it up with something of a similiar design and bearing dimensions to see what info there is
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      06-29-2017, 11:12 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
The gears look good. That must be some damn hard metal!

I got a tapered roller pinion bearing conversion kit (uses M3 bearings), tapered roller carrier bearings, carrier bearing shims, seals and a pinion nut spanner from bearingkits.co.uk . He has more stuff available than what's on his web site. The entire process took 10 minutes. He replied to emails within 2 minutes then I called him with credit card details and the stuff shipped the following day. The guy was an absolute legend. It took me over 3 weeks just to get a price from "MFactory AU" in comparison.
Good to see there is 'some' good news amongst the nightmare!
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      06-29-2017, 11:19 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by Montye90 View Post
I was thinking about getting an LSD for mine, but this seems ugly. I heard that Drexler is the way to go, anyone heard about this? Or had any experience?
When this platform was new this was the only available LSD, but is extremely costly. Drexler supply a lot of oem manufacturers with LSD's and they supply the LSD's in BMW's current linup (optional extra on the M135i, new 140i 340i etc)

Since then Quaiffe and wavetrac released their offerings and later on m factory.

Wavetrac is what I'd go for Drexler was crazy expensive like $7k or something..
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      06-30-2017, 10:51 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
Hi. This discussion is well and truly over but I had big issues with communication and I had no idea what was going on and could not get any calls or texts returned at all (and I only tried to make contact once every couple of days). Your mention of "all he did was help" unfortunately is not correct. Yes in the beginning I did mention to MFactory that this person advised that there probably isn't a bolt issue. I was never, ever blaming that person for me not doing the recall straight away. That person took it as some sort of threat to his never-wrong self and from that point made every effort against me. Firstly with an email saying it's the diff builder's responsibility to check the torque of the bolts used to assemble the LSD in the factory. Secondly, by trying to say that "incorrect carrier bearing preload" caused the wear to all bearings and one carrier bearing outer race to spin and not even acknowledging the metal throughout the oil and metail coils from the bolts digging out the bottom of the housing was obviously the actual cause. He then lied and said that the carrier bearings are sealed on the inside making it impossible for debris to get in, which I went along with at the time because I couldn't remember for sure if that was right or not. He also didn't ever acknowledge that the metal debris in the oil stuffed the pinion bearings. He just said something along of the lines of "your pinion bearings will be a bit noisy" but delibrately witheld the cause so that it doesn't point to MFactory. My diff builder has since laughed al the "incorrect carrier preload" cause theory that ignored the metal debris.

You mentioned "you were getting new bearings". I was going to be charged for them. I agreed to pay for them because I didn't want to argue and I just needed my car going. Never once did MFactory offer to replace the damaged bearings, not even the pinion bearings of which there was absolutely no doubt from any party that the metal debris caused. I could not even get MFactory to provide these bearings at a discount.

After I struggled to get in contact with this dealer for weeks and I was extremely concerned and had no idea what was happening, people were starting to ask me how it's going on a private FB group. I shared the issues I was having with lack of communication. At that point, the dealer backed out of our arrangement and sent my diff back in pieces.

For the next month, I was following up my case with a new contact, "MFactory AU" because MFactory said this is who I need to talk to since I'm in Australia. He was a friendly guy but never did anything useful. Just stalled me constantly in the hope I'll just go away. At that point, all I was wanting was to buy the bearings at a reasonable price and yet he stalled me and stalled me for weeks and weeks sayin yep he'll get it organised etc. and after wasting my time for all that time, he sends me a quote for more than full retail price, totalling $1350. At that point I gave up and bought everything I need from a great guy in the UK for considerably cheaper in all of about 10 minutes!

That's why I said I didn't see emails also I was not referring to mfactory i only specifically feel that the shop really got caught in middle because he didn't do the install and you weren't his customer but was helping. Also if you were paying for bearings that is one thing from this thread it seemed that you were getting the bearings for free but was an argument of who was to blame which may be wrong I just was saying to read through it and try to pretend you aren't involved and see what it looks like once again just for the fact that someone with no obligation offered to help unfortunately it went south but he doesn't deserve to be flamed help is even paying the shipping costs so he literally has not taken one penny from you and never has. I do understand the bad advice argument but if he said he isn't recalling anything and didn't carry the diffs at the time affected and didnt sell or install anything to you it isn't his responsibility but he still tried to help. I am assuming that convo was early on before their were allot of failures and the source of the diff should have been contacted not an outside third party. Once again take everything with a grain of salt as only you know exactly what happened I just was hoping to provide a different view that could help save the reputation of a business owner and maybe you and him could agree too disagree.
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      06-30-2017, 01:08 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by Rob09msport View Post
That's why I said I didn't see emails also I was not referring to mfactory i only specifically feel that the shop really got caught in middle because he didn't do the install and you weren't his customer but was helping. Also if you were paying for bearings that is one thing from this thread it seemed that you were getting the bearings for free but was an argument of who was to blame which may be wrong I just was saying to read through it and try to pretend you aren't involved and see what it looks like once again just for the fact that someone with no obligation offered to help unfortunately it went south but he doesn't deserve to be flamed help is even paying the shipping costs so he literally has not taken one penny from you and never has. I do understand the bad advice argument but if he said he isn't recalling anything and didn't carry the diffs at the time affected and didnt sell or install anything to you it isn't his responsibility but he still tried to help. I am assuming that convo was early on before their were allot of failures and the source of the diff should have been contacted not an outside third party. Once again take everything with a grain of salt as only you know exactly what happened I just was hoping to provide a different view that could help save the reputation of a business owner and maybe you and him could agree too disagree.
I continued to say that "Let's agree to disagree on the cause. I'll pay what you propose. Let's just get it fixed" from very early on repeatedly. It's really hard to explain but it was a bad reactive attitude problem from DiffLab very early on which should have been a warning sign not to send there in the beginning. Because in my initial dealings with MFactory, I mentioned that DiffLab was of the opinion not to worry about the recall (but I never, ever blamed this opinion), DiffLab reacted very defensively at that point and his anger from that ultimately lead to a delibrate mis-diagnosis on the carrier bearing cause (including lying and saying carrier bearings are sealed on the inside so metal debris in the oil can't get in) and delibrate withholding the cause of the pinion bearing wear. This was to do everything he could to paint a picture for MFactory not to cover anything out of anger. I didn't pick up on this obvious attitude issue and agenda until it was too late. If it was given a fair diagnosis by DiffLab and an unbiased attitude (The damn bolts fell out. You only have to look at the metal pieces and infusion in the oil), I suspect MFactory would have helped out much more inline with the way they help out customers in the US. You're right in saying you're not seeing the full picture but I assure you, If I spent an hour telling you every little detail, you'd understand fully but I can assure you he's not the "good samaritan" he paints himself as on here.

Just thinking about the situation has a bad effect on me and I was glad when this discussion was over 2.5 months ago. As this is my build thread, I hope it can get back to being dormant until I have some updates about the car or if someone has any questions about the car or mods.

Last edited by bradsm87; 06-30-2017 at 02:07 PM..
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      06-30-2017, 05:38 PM   #129
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One thing I deff agree on once again as a business owner regardless if you glued the rear together the bolts fell out that isn't user or installer error so whatever is needed to fix is on mfactory. Perfect example just this week my guys left cement in a gutter on a chimney rebuild it rained and stained wood siding they cleaned it off now the paint is lighter I spent my day today painting the side of the house even though the paint was old and not perfect but it would looked horrible if we just painted the affected area and their was a big seam old to new
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      07-09-2017, 04:57 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiffLab View Post
You created a situation for yourself whereby you became a ball-breaker, who blamed everyone but himself for his misfortune. You hammered me with long Emails about why I was wrong about every little thing. You just wanted money, and for someone to pay for your mistake. You were convinced that you could get a pile of cash from MFactory, which was never going to happen. You got so bad that I had to withdraw from it all. I offered you free assistance, which you accepted, and not once did you offer to pay. I told you that you might have to pay for gear lapping, which I have to outsource, and that is all. You accepted free parts and labour, which was very generously offered by me: someone who has nil to do with this entire situation and only offered to help out of sympathy. Despite the fact that you’re receiving charity, you have extremely high expectations related to the volume of your crap I should have to put up with. You’re getting the job done for free. A job which has nothing to do with me. It doesn’t come with my undivided attention and patience for your behaviour, which has been an appalling blame-game and money-grab since day #1. You threatened social media action since day #1 and now here it is. With your countdowns and time limits. You're a menace.

Why do I need to participate in this absurd rubbish between you and an LSD manufacturer? Why do I need to keep spending hours communicating with you? In fact, why do I need to do anything for you at all? You're not a customer and never have been. You're a nightmare which I cannot wake up from. I shouldn't have agreed to help you. In doing so I signed up to something which I wish I could escape from. I agreed to help you by rebuilding your dodgy diff for free. I didn't agree to cop all of this from you, which started the same day I agreed to help. You accepted my offer, and immediately went on a tirade. This here, what you are doing right now, is what you have been doing since day #1. You’re full of threats. You’re always right. Someone else is wrong. Someone else screwed you over. You’ve done everything right. You want money. You want compensation. You want courtesy calls. You want people’s time for free. You just don’t stop. To this very moment, you have not stopped. You’re still going. I feel like you would just go on forever, until you last breath, cursing the world.

You are completely off with your explanation of setting ball bearing pre-load. This is why your diff failed. It is crystal clear.

Yes, this needs to stop, so stop. You’re nothing but a whinger and this is nothing but an outward display of blame which needs to be directed inward for a change. You've now made a public disgrace of yourself.

Do you blokes have much experience with 4.11 motorsport gears in e46 m3 diffs.

Mine were fairly whiney on light throttle only, had a shop in Sydney build it and they are still noisy, not as bad but still there. The outer shaft seals are a little when so wondering if it worth you looking at, if you do it of course. If noise is unavoidable with those gears, I might just have to live with it.
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      11-12-2017, 04:44 AM   #131
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Small update, I got the car back up and running a few months ago. I just handed it straight over to the Mrs and hadn't really touched it until a week or so ago. I bought a 4x4 around the same time so I've been prepping that to be decently off-road capable.

I did my second intake valve clean after 25,000km. The intake ports and valves had the usual PCV oil but nothing really hard caked on like before. I put it down to running less than factory EGR.

I attempted to fit a CP-E charge pipe but it won't come close to fitting with the relocated PS reservoir so that's back in the box and ready to sell. I'm just going to keep the stock CP and buy another stock spare for long drives just in case! I took it for a flogging over a couple of days with the guys on their Tassie trip and it held up perfectly!

I've started working on a TCU tune and tweaked the DME tune to suit (and upped the boost/power a bit too). I'm pretty happy with it on 17psi now. Log below. Boost isn't perfect but I've learnt not to get too hung up on it because something as simple as ambient temp will change and it's throw it all off again anyway!

https://datazap.me/u/bradsm87/rev44-...=11.70&tmax=18

I'm on to my 4th TCU revision. I'm happy with the shift points in all modes and the shift speed/firmness for all gear changes except 1>2. That one's really hard to get good and there is a very fine line to snapping the input shaft on the 1>2 shift so the extra care and small increments just makes it a tedious process.

I'm at 4.4 seconds from 0-100 at the moment, mostly held back by the horrible 1>2 shift. I'm hoping to knock another tenth off it with further TCU revisions.
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      11-12-2017, 09:15 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
Small update, I got the car back up and running a few months ago. I just handed it straight over to the Mrs and hadn't really touched it until a week or so ago. I bought a 4x4 around the same time so I've been prepping that to be decently off-road capable.

I did my second intake valve clean after 25,000km. The intake ports and valves had the usual PCV oil but nothing really hard caked on like before. I put it down to running less than factory EGR.

I attempted to fit a CP-E charge pipe but it won't come close to fitting with the relocated PS reservoir so that's back in the box and ready to sell. I'm just going to keep the stock CP and buy another stock spare for long drives just in case! I took it for a flogging over a couple of days with the guys on their Tassie trip and it held up perfectly!

I've started working on a TCU tune and tweaked the DME tune to suit (and upped the boost/power a bit too). I'm pretty happy with it on 17psi now. Log below. Boost isn't perfect but I've learnt not to get too hung up on it because something as simple as ambient temp will change and it's throw it all off again anyway!

https://datazap.me/u/bradsm87/rev44-...=11.70&tmax=18

I'm on to my 4th TCU revision. I'm happy with the shift points in all modes and the shift speed/firmness for all gear changes except 1>2. That one's really hard to get good and there is a very fine line to snapping the input shaft on the 1>2 shift so the extra care and small increments just makes it a tedious process.

I'm at 4.4 seconds from 0-100 at the moment, mostly held back by the horrible 1>2 shift. I'm hoping to knock another tenth off it with further TCU revisions.
Hey Brad - what are you using to measure your 0-100? Is it straight from the OBD logs?
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