[silverseal99]

Mine went at just over 100K miles on a 2011 335d--spun the hub, visible crack in the rubber and separation at the inner hub. Classic symptoms: pulled off freeway into a parking lot. When I started to leave I lost power steering and a battery symbol appeared at the dash. Suspecting a belt, I popped the hood. Belt was intact but there was a burnt rubber smell and closer inspection revealed the serpentine belt was either not turning, or turning in "fits and starts." Had it towed home--no driving it without power steering.

Purchased new damper and bolts on line for under $200. I thought I was buying OEM but I see on the box that the Rein AVV0704 is made in China.

I changed it in the driveway. Fairly simple job (for a Beemer) per the instructions at the start of this thread. Basic hand tools along with a Lysle 59370 stretch belt tool, E12 Torx socket for the damper bolts, 24 mm socket for the serpentine belt tensioner, and a 3/8 drive torque wrench.

The Lysle 59370 tool makes stretch belt removal and installation a snap from under the car, and yes, the engine does turn easily from one of the Torx bolts at the damper.

Using a 6 mm Allen key to lock the engine was slick. The hole in the bell housing is a blind reach--I found it after some poking around. I recommend using your right hand as it will be easier to reach. The wrench went in all the way on the first try (lucky for once).

If you're handy, this job is a no brainer. If you get a check engine light, make sure you reattached all electrical connections (like the MAF sensor).
Have fun and save a grand or so.

[Wazman999]

Originally Posted by dextersl

So the last time I posted in this thread, I deduced that the cause of the squeak/squeals I was hearing was caused by the belts because I could hear the noise regardless of whether or not the AC was on. I replaced the belts and pulleys, but did not mess with the tensioner and the squeaks/squeals went away. I made sure to inspect the HB while I was in there and below are pictures of what it looked like at the time. My 335d had 123K miles on it when I took those pictures in August 2017. But in retrospect, those pictures looked similar to what Mik325tds posted earlier on in the thread, so probably should have replaced it back then!

Hi guys

I desperately need help removing these bolts

Tomorrow I'll be trying having it in 6th gear but when I tried a couple of days ago it was just turning the engine.

Impact driver had no effect

Thanks in advance

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by Wazman999

Hi guys

I desperately need help removing these bolts

Tomorrow I'll be trying having it in 6th gear but when I tried a couple of days ago it was just turning the engine.

Impact driver had no effect

Thanks in advance

To keep the crankshaft from turning you need to lock it in place via the flywheel. There's a little hole in the block (intake side) that serves this purpose. A small Allen key does the job. See post #5 here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...98&postcount=5

[Wazman999]

Is this the same for the 2.0d N47?

I've got the tool to lock it at the rear, just dont know how to access it

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by Wazman999

Is this the same for the 2.0d N47?

I've got the tool to lock it at the rear, just dont know how to access it

Didn't realize you had an N47. We don't have those here in Americaland. But to answer your question: no, it does not appear to be the same procedure.

Looks like the N47 requires the use of a special tool that locks the crank externally on the front side. See these repair instructions: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...damper/HlyFwUM

Hope it helps. Sorry it's not as easy as the M57.