[makkan00]

Hi
I am doing this on Pre LCI E90.
can somebody please identify these wirings and what they are for?

yellow with orange
yellow with brown
blue with orange
blue with brown

I think the wires with brown strip are earth, but not sure.

B.w these lights are E90 LCI xenon non-adaptive ones.

[teaston]

Yes brown is always earth on BMW's.

See the 1st post on page 1 of this thread, those wires are all blank: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...non+conversion

[teaston]

P.S. I wouldn't (didn't) follow the guide on this thread for modifying the wiring on the car's loom. Instead follow the guide on post #3 on this thread to do it inside the headlights and keep the car unmodified and standard looking: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...non+conversion

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

Yes brown is always earth on BMW's.

See the 1st post on page 1 of this thread, those wires are all blank: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...non+conversion

Many thanks for your help.

I know all the wiring except

yellow with orange
yellow with brown
blue with orange
blue with brown

And that where I need some information.
Its a rough guess, but I think it is to do with the level sensors of the car.
Signals from those sensors go to the FRM and from there to these headlights.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

P.S. I wouldn't (didn't) follow the guide on this thread for modifying the wiring on the car's loom. Instead follow the guide on post #3 on this thread to do it inside the headlights and keep the car unmodified and standard looking: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...non+conversion

I'd rather do it on the car, as when it comes to selling the car, xenon are not modified and can be sold easily.

And the car's harness can be reverted back to its original settings.
Thanks.

[teaston]

Xenons can be reverted easily too.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by makkan00

Many thanks for your help.

I know all the wiring except

yellow with orange
yellow with brown
blue with orange
blue with brown

And that where I need some information.
Its a rough guess, but I think it is to do with the level sensors of the car.
Signals from those sensors go to the FRM and from there to these headlights.

Good point, the level motor has 4 wires going to it, that must be these 4.

[makkan00]

Installed the xenon and coding done. No errors so far.

At the moment here are the issues:

1- Since LCI headlights are bi-xenon and shutters get connected with the high beam wire. It works when headlights are on. However when xenons are off, high beam triggers the shutter and as there is no xenon, therefore nothing happens.

Any suggestions for the solution?
If no, then I guess I will have to install the rest of the wiring and level sensors.

2- I am assuming that cars withs xenons have no headlight adjustment knob on the headlight switch and they are auto leveling due to the sensors. Am I correct in thinking that?

As my headlight adjustment knob does not work with xenon lights.

So, do you all have same issues?

[teaston]

1. Even though you did the mod outside the headlight to get the new earth, you still have to do the mod inside the headlight joining the shutter and high beam together, so that the flash to pass works (halogen). This will also mean that when you turn high beam on you will also get the halogen high beam. Extra brightness!! P.S. both lci and non lci are bi xenon.

2. The height adjustment knob will work as long as you don't add the xenon to the VO. If you have added it, remove it and the knob will work. I think it may fail the MOT if the knob isn't working, but not certain. Then just turn off the low beam checks.

[teaston]

P.S. i did already explain point 2. in post #107

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

1. Even though you did the mod outside the headlight to get the new earth, you still have to do the mod inside the headlight joining the shutter and high beam together, so that the flash to pass works (halogen). This will also mean that when you turn high beam on you will also get the halogen high beam. Extra brightness!! P.S. both lci and non lci are bi xenon.

2. The height adjustment knob will work as long as you don't add the xenon to the VO. If you have added it, remove it and the knob will work. I think it may fail the MOT if the knob isn't working, but not certain. Then just turn off the low beam checks.

Thanks, appreciate your response. But lets discuss it for the sake of sharing knowledge.

1- I've already done what you have said and hence high beam is working from xenon light and shutter mechanism. So on high beam activation shutter opens and spread the light further.

However what you missed is, Do you know that LCI xenon lights are without H7 high beam?
So considering what I said, you cannot have H7 high beam on LCI xenons. You can only have bi-xenon on LCI xenons without H7 high beam.
So the work around would be installing the wiring as per LCI car's FRM ---> headlight wiring.

2- Referring to your point 2, I read your earlier post and its brilliant idea.
However, being a coder and reading bit more details I know that
- H7 = 55W
- D1S = 35W
(AFAIK)
So with the method which you are using, you are over feeding your xenon ballasts and I can see them getting cooked sooner than later.
Work around would be to code it properly with VO or if somebody goes with your method, then changing the PWM values to reduce the power wattage going to ballasts.

In UK, for xenon cars requirements to pass MOT are;
1- Washer jets (which I have installed).
2- Auto leveling xenons (so you do not need wheel on headlight switch).

Most of the MOT test centers just observe the washer jet and assume everything works as far as there is no error on OBC. In that respect I am safe.

Thanks for your response.

B/W, have you noticed any flickering of xenon lights when you switch them on / turn on-off the car? Have a good look before responding.

[teaston]

1. Right i see your problem, the lci xenon cars actually fire the xenon bulb when the flash to pass is activated. May be worth looking through your frm's .man file for the value to change for this to work.

2. Coding for xenon does not change the amount of watts fed to the bulb, all it does is change the check control values so the car knows if a builb is out. The bulb itself draws the amount of watts it needs, as does any electrical load. It is only the voltage that is regulated by the car. The amps and watts depend on the resistance of the load (the bulb/ballast in this case) It's just the same as swapping your 60w bulb in your living room light for a 40w one. (btw i am a qualified electrician)

My car just went through MOT with the xenon headlights, but no washers or auto leveling. But yes i think your right that they don't check the adjuster knob inside car. It is defininetly a big advantage having it working though so you can easily fine adjust the level without having to keep going under the bonnet with an allen key.

No there is no flickering at all.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

1. Right i see your problem, the lci xenon cars actually fire the xenon bulb when the flash to pass is activated. May be worth looking through your frm's .man file for the value to change for this to work.

2. Coding for xenon does not change the amount of watts fed to the bulb, all it does is change the check control values so the car knows if a builb is out. The bulb itself draws the amount of watts it needs, as does any electrical load. It is only the voltage that is regulated by the car. The amps and watts depend on the resistance of the load (the bulb/ballast in this case) It's just the same as swapping your 60w bulb in your living room light for a 40w one. (btw i am a qualified electrician)

My car just went through MOT with the xenon headlights, but no washers or auto leveling. But yes i think your right that they don't check the adjuster knob inside car. It is defininetly a big advantage having it working though so you can easily fine adjust the level without having to keep going under the bonnet with an allen key.

No there is no flickering at all.

Many thanks for taking time and responding to this.
1- There is one way or the other way with the coding. So if I code it for pure xenons, the high beam work when lights are off, but the shutter does not work when the headlights are on.

And with the method mentioned on this thread, shutter works when the headlights are on, but nothing when the headlights are off.

I have tried different combinations but there is no way of mix and match.

2- Thanks for clarifying that.

Lastly, have you driven your car on the country side with the high beams on?

The reason I asked is that when you tap pin 6 to 5, it gives approx 13 volt to the shutter and that is constant going to into the shutter.

I'm afraid that it may blow the shutter motor. I assume that on OEM xenon fitted car, the high beam just opens the shutter and leave it at that position, till you pull the stalk again.

Whereas with this coding method, the shutter motor keep working if you push the stalk forward.

I may be wrong, but going to check on a car with xenon fitted from factory.

Whats your take on this?

thanks.

[teaston]

1. There is a wire mod you could do which i'm pretty sure will work. Tap the high beam wire on car (white with green tracer) to the low beam wire on car (yellow with green tracer) using a wire with a diode in it. A diode is a small resistor lokking device that only allows current to flow in one direction, there are available from maplins, or online electronics shops.
Then when you pull the flash stalk it will send current to the xenon. But when you turn the headlights on it will not allow current through to the shutter. I did a very similar thing to my e46 to get multiple trigger taps for my angel eyes. I had wires like this coming from ignition, interior lights, and side lights so that if any of them came on so would the angel eyes, but for example if i turned the sidelights on my interior lights wouldn't come on!

2. Yes i have driven with full beam on for extended periods. The shutter opens by a solenoid (not a motor) which is basically an electromagnet, so it requires constant current to keep it open. This will be the same whether factory fitted or retro fitted.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

1. There is a wire mod you could do which i'm pretty sure will work. Tap the high beam wire on car (white with green tracer) to the low beam wire on car (yellow with green tracer) using a wire with a diode in it. A diode is a small resistor lokking device that only allows current to flow in one direction, there are available from maplins, or online electronics shops.
Then when you pull the flash stalk it will send current to the xenon. But when you turn the headlights on it will not allow current through to the shutter. I did a very similar thing to my e46 to get multiple trigger taps for my angel eyes. I had wires like this coming from ignition, interior lights, and side lights so that if any of them came on so would the angel eyes, but for example if i turned the sidelights on my interior lights wouldn't come on!

2. Yes i have driven with full beam on for extended periods. The shutter opens by a solenoid (not a motor) which is basically an electromagnet, so it requires constant current to keep it open. This will be the same whether factory fitted or retro fitted.

Brilliant. Appreciate your response.
Re: Diode. Does it has to be very specific? Re: Certain voltage or watts?
Sorry, I am not very good at these and cannot be bothered to go back and take out the physics books out.

Would it be possible for you to post a link from Maplin or anyother website showing which one should do the trick?

Many thanks.

[teaston]

These should do: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-SEMICON...item3cc2a8ae9f

Xenon is 35w 12v so 35 divided by 12 = 2.9A, so 3A diode should be fine.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

These should do: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-SEMICON...item3cc2a8ae9f

Xenon is 35w 12v so 35 divided by 12 = 2.9A, so 3A diode should be fine.

Brilliant mate. Ordered two.
Just to confirm the flow of current is from Anode (+) to cathode (-) and vice versa will restrict the current.

so considering if I am correct, I should be connecting the anode (+) side toward to high beam and cathode (-) side of diode toward the standard normal xenon.

[teaston]

Yep thats right.

Oh if you don't want to mess around with soldering, i just used butt connectors, probably best to use some heat shrink to keep moisture out, or get some of these butts with it built in, and cover the diode from both sides: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adhesive-L...item48463c2186

They say use a heat gun but a lighter is fine, just don't touch the plastic with the flame!

And i guess you already have scotchloks for the wire taps. Should be all you need.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by teaston

Yep thats right.

Oh if you don't want to mess around with soldering, i just used butt connectors, probably best to use some heat shrink to keep moisture out, or get some of these butts with it built in, and cover the diode from both sides: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adhesive-L...item48463c2186

They say use a heat gun but a lighter is fine, just don't touch the plastic with the flame!

And i guess you already have scotchloks for the wire taps. Should be all you need.

Thanks mate for your help. I'll update it when things are done. Appreciate your help.

[JJCe90]

Originally Posted by Excellence

Mach@M-force_Design and I have teamed up to work on his car
for the Halogen to Xenon Conversion
-No "Parachute" kit needed.

VIDEO COMING SOON!

Why this thread is labeled "Phase 1" is because we are still testing. So far after 15-minutes of driving, the car produced no error and the European Xenon Headlight remained fully functional.
Phase 2 will include, 2 resistors that will be used as a load to balance the system back to 55W, thus giving a completely ERRORLESS Halogen to Xenon swap.

So far it is near ERRORLESS. ADHD's tutorial caused way too much trouble for me. One thing wrong on his diagram, which I have corrected is that Pin #1 is really Angel Eyes.



Terminal (The plug on the car.)
Do the same thing on BOTH plugs!

1.) Angel Eyes

2.) Ground – this is where you need to add a ground wire.

-Two new ground wires




Make sure the new ground wire it is tapped with pin #4. DO NOT hook it up to the chassis!

I used 12-10 AWG(Yellow) Splice Tap Connectors to tap my NEW GROUND wire to the Existing GROUND wire.


Hooking it up to the chassis will only cause your xenons to flicker and turn off.
I filled the hole with some silicone solution so the wire does not wiggle around.

3.) Low Beam (xenon)

4.) Ground - the existing ground you tap your new ground wire to

5.) Bi-Xenon (shutter) - This is optional, however if you want 2 Xenon modes, (xenon low beam, and xenon high beam) you will need to tap the shutter wire to the regular high-beams(H7).
Tapping pin #5 and pin #6 will allow you to have bi-xenon, meaning you will have 2 stages of brightness. Regular low-beam xenons, and high-beam xenons. You will have the choice to have low-beam xenons and high-beam xenons and regular high-beams all together.
If you do NOT choose to do this mod, you will have regular high-beams(h7) and just low-beam xenons. The beam will be unaffected.
Either way, this will not cause an error.
OPTIONAL(If you want Bi-Xenon)

You simply tap pin #6 wire (blue) to the shutter wire (red).
I created a new wire and tapped them together with a 16-14 AWG(Blue) T-Tap and 22-18 AWG(Red) Splice Tap Connector

*The color coded Splice Taps and T-Taps are
specially made for the different gauges (wire thick/thinness).*

6.) High Beam(H7)
7.) Empty
8.) Empty
9.) Empty
10.) Empty
11.) Empty
12.) Side Marker (Signal)

Plug it back into the headlight, you should get an error, drive for 30 seconds and your ECU(computer) will adapt to the new Xenon headlamp. The error message will disappear completely and your car will be CHECK OK. This has been tested and it is PERFECTLY working.

I tried doing this DIY on my Xenon headlights, and it still shows an error on the computer. It's not going away and it's annoying.

[jluzbet]

Hi All,
I am planning to put OEM Xenon on my car, I was given the left side but after inspection I could see some of the internal wires all cracked, This definitely cant be put like this as 100% a short will be done, is there a solution out there that I can find?

Any help will be appreciated.

[teaston]

You could wrap the cracked wires with insulation tape.