[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by drewbagd

2007 335i - So of course, I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator (housing was cracked and leaking) and the battery, only to have my HPFP go out a week later. Car just died in the middle of the highway with no warnings and it won't restart. Code is P142E $0018Pd (not sure what that $-code is). SES light came on too. Could it be the controller or anything else, or is it 100% the HPFP?

Worst part is car won't even limp, it just died on the highway while driving in rush hour traffic. Super convenient, super safe! I would hope that everyone that has a failure reports it to the NHTSA here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

If we don't report these problems, they won't get dealt with. An extended warranty up to 120k is ridiculous for a 13 year old car with a problem that can cause you to suddenly lose all power without warning.

How long should the fuel pump be warranted for?
Not able to limp home also means your LPFP is bad.

The LPFP should provide enough fuel to limp as long as you stay under 2.5-3K.
I changed my LPFP and regulator about 3 weeks ago and the HPFP right after that.
I knew they were all toast, but with a new LPFP, I was able to drive pretty good as long as I didn't push it. I could even keep from going into limp mode.

If done yourself, the HPFP takes less time than changing the starter.
I was able to do the whole job including plugs in about 3 hours.
DO not remove the intake. You just need a longer hex wrench and a way to add leverage.

[drewbagd]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

How long should the fuel pump be warranted for?
Not able to limp home also means your LPFP is bad.

The LPFP should provide enough fuel to limp as long as you stay under 2.5-3K.
I changed my LPFP and regulator about 3 weeks ago and the HPFP right after that.
I knew they were all toast, but with a new LPFP, I was able to drive pretty good as long as I didn't push it. I could even keep from going into limp mode.

If done yourself, the HPFP takes less time than changing the starter.
I was able to do the whole job including plugs in about 3 hours.
DO not remove the intake. You just need a longer hex wrench and a way to add leverage.

So I replaced the hpfp and same continuous turn over with no start, so looks like it's both pumps. The code is gone having replaced the hpfp though, shouldn't there still be a code?

Thank you for the help man. Just seems really odd that both would go at once doesn't it, especially with no symptoms? Having just replaced the regulator, could that have been defective somehow causing both pumps to fail?

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by Nick_F

This is the one I received about a month ago
BMW-13517616446

Seems to be some confusion. RealOEM and dealerships list 13517616170 as the newest part, but some online stores are selling 13517616446 as the newest.

So which one is it?

[suprapapi]

i need help locating a part for my n54 engine. under the intake manifold, there is an electrical box thats mounted on that connects the lpfp sensor and other components. i need that box and the connector from the low pressure fuel sensor to that box. Any information is helpful. Most junkyards dont have what i need and google searchs arent accurate.

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by suprapapi

i need help locating a part for my n54 engine. under the intake manifold, there is an electrical box thats mounted on that connects the lpfp sensor and other components. i need that box and the connector from the low pressure fuel sensor to that box. Any information is helpful. Most junkyards dont have what i need and google searchs arent accurate.

Go to realoem, put in last 7 of your vin, and search around, you'll find the part.

[suprapapi]

bro thank you so much for the info

[yielo]

Originally Posted by drewbagd

So I replaced the hpfp and same continuous turn over with no start, so looks like it's both pumps. The code is gone having replaced the hpfp though, shouldn't there still be a code?

Thank you for the help man. Just seems really odd that both would go at once doesn't it, especially with no symptoms? Having just replaced the regulator, could that have been defective somehow causing both pumps to fail?

ive been through all that and its better to start with regulator. do the lpfp and do the hpfp.
i went through all of this just to finish have a 30ff code and have to swap turbos and then with all the power.. had to swap the motor mounts and pull the engine because belts were lost inside motor due to worn motor mounts.
i havent driven my car more than a hundred miles in the past year because of issues and not for lack of trying. right now its been sitting at the trans shop trying to get the pedal hydraulics and new flywheel wheel and clutch to work properly. 12k in parts in the past year not including little labor i needed.

the n54 is a love and hate relationship. i didnt care that i was buying a neglected car because i would have done all of this anyway. next is bbk kit, suspension, m3 control arms, sway bars, stage 3 turbos and aluminum outlets all together to save in labor at shop. all easy installs.

[SJM67]

Originally Posted by quattr0

The most stock turbos I've seen is 140k. That's not the norm. Same goes for steering rack. Tend to go when car reaches >100k. To be honest I don't recall I did any maintenance except steering fluid flush one time in the past 10 or so years.

i am still on stock snails ,steering rack and LPFP/HPFP at 153K. done all the usual PM for a N54... i drive it daily with no issues other than i probably should change the LPFP sensor to the upgraded one cuz it's stuck at the same measurement 89 PSI.

[iqraceworks]

I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out....I was driving home the other day and all of a sudden the car lost power. I limped home and scanned for codes....29DC injector Cutoff. After I restarted the car....it ran smooth again, no issues.

Then I took the car for a drive and recorded a log. As you can see....as soon as I rolled into the throttle, the HPFP pressure started to climb, all of a sudden it took a dump and fell to 400psi....causing another 29DC injector Cutoff fault.

Is this what happens when a HPFP starts to fail? Or is something else going on? It's odd how it fires up and idles fine....but as soon as you put a load on the motor and the pressure starts to built....it just falls on its face. Replace the HPFP??

https://datazap.me/u/iqraceworks/log...ta=1-2-5-12-21

[holtreed]

I have not had rhis issues

[holtreed]

Damn that sucks

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out....I was driving home the other day and all of a sudden the car lost power. I limped home and scanned for codes....29DC injector Cutoff. After I restarted the car....it ran smooth again, no issues.

Then I took the car for a drive and recorded a log. As you can see....as soon as I rolled into the throttle, the HPFP pressure started to climb, all of a sudden it took a dump and fell to 400psi....causing another 29DC injector Cutoff fault.

Is this what happens when a HPFP starts to fail? Or is something else going on? It's odd how it fires up and idles fine....but as soon as you put a load on the motor and the pressure starts to built....it just falls on its face. Replace the HPFP??

https://datazap.me/u/iqraceworks/log...ta=1-2-5-12-21

Just an update....it turned out to to be the HPFP. Ordered a new one from FCP....cara running like a champ again.

[TENZO1]

thanks for posting

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Sofiachloe

A failing or failed high-pressure fuel pump causes a limited flow of gases to the engine block. When this occurs, the engine is unable to function properly, thus leading to limp mode 2048 cupcakes activation or even a stalled-out engine.Only trained specialists are permitted to carry out repair work on a high-pressure fuel system. Before replacement, the electrical connection of the pre-feed pump must be disconnected from the vehicle electrical system or the battery must be disconnected.If your vehicle's temperature gauge shows higher than normal readings regularly, it might indicate a problem with the fuel pump. 2. Engine Sputtering. If your engine sputters or jerks during high speeds, this could be a sign of an inconsistent flow of fuel to the engine, which is often caused by a failing fuel pump.

Your first sentence makes no sense at all. What does a HPFP have to do with "flow of gases to the engine block"?? Huh?

[TonyD1124]

So I'm having a few of those symptoms i suppose, i have an occasional long crank, and sometimes when its cold it runs really rough for 30secs to a minute. I have logs and my STFTS are going crazy, idk if this matters but I am on MHD S2+ on 93 octane. DATALOG:

a few minutes of cruising, I got on it a few times just for data.
https://datazap.me/u/tony1124/fuelin...3?log=0&data=3

If anyone can please just look at this and give me their two cents it would be greatly appreciated.

[DonMc]

I don't drive this car very often except summer. My G-daughter wanted me to take her somewhere Saturday in it with the top down. Yes, it was cool and cold! But whatever she wants.....

Once on the road I noticed the oil temp gauge didn't work. I pushed the throttle down a bit and it wouldn't "kick in" to a higher speed.

After doing some research, it sounds like a fuel pump and everyone seems to want over $1K for a new one.

I just paid quite a bit a month ago to fix the hinged top covers. I guess it's back to the shop.

[BMWJU]

Hello im new here! and to the n54 platform i am familiar with BMW'S as ive had many e46s, F30 n20,e90 n52's IM having the same issue IM MHD stage 2+ FBO no outlet/inlet i got the car stock in limp mode i bought at 132k now it as 134k once i added bolt ons and found out MY VSRF charge pipe was causing 30ff code switched to arm charge pipe it fixed issue but added more issues with fueling that's how i found out my injectors were bad/leaking replaced with new ones i changed most maintenance items(prone to fail components) ex( HPFP used unsure of miles, INDEX 12 i changed them between different sets to ensure that wasn't the issue, LPFP STAGE 2 precision race works & Also converted back to stock fuel pump as of now did not fix issue, step 1 colder sparks triple checked GAP there new, Coil packs, fuel regulator, VANOS solenoids, PCV) everything else i replaced shouldn't affect cyl 6 im getting 29D2 & 29D9 my good friend/mechanic says maybe my hpfp is capable of stock maybe stage 1 power not stage 2 plus power i have not tested this theory out as i just found this issue and have work, My car drives OK in drive maybe 30% throttle it may bog a little any more it will misfire it will stutter like im hitting the bumps on the side of the freeway only CYL 6 if i go in sport it will stutter even worse as of now driving in "D" it goes to moderate speeds i cannot do a quick overtake incase of bad drivers or merging onto freeway or i will misfire plz help! IM not sure how this relates to you but my rail pressure averages about 680-720 i went in my buddies car custom tune FBO upgraded turbos stock fueling other than index 12 his averages 720 minimum average it goes low but never like mine is it my HPFP?

[BMWJU]

p.s no long cranks at cold start if anything it starts right up if i drive it reasonably hard will throw a service soon engine i clear it and it will keep a slight misfire no codes until anything close to half throttle (3500-4k) rpms is when the jerks occur

[GSB]

Originally Posted by BMWJU

Hello im new here! and to the n54 platform i am familiar with BMW'S as ive had many e46s, F30 n20,e90 n52's IM having the same issue IM MHD stage 2+ FBO no outlet/inlet i got the car stock in limp mode i bought at 132k now it as 134k once i added bolt ons and found out MY VSRF charge pipe was causing 30ff code switched to arm charge pipe it fixed issue but added more issues with fueling that's how i found out my injectors were bad/leaking replaced with new ones i changed most maintenance items(prone to fail components) ex( HPFP used unsure of miles, INDEX 12 i changed them between different sets to ensure that wasn't the issue, LPFP STAGE 2 precision race works & Also converted back to stock fuel pump as of now did not fix issue, step 1 colder sparks triple checked GAP there new, Coil packs, fuel regulator, VANOS solenoids, PCV) everything else i replaced shouldn't affect cyl 6 im getting 29D2 & 29D9 my good friend/mechanic says maybe my hpfp is capable of stock maybe stage 1 power not stage 2 plus power i have not tested this theory out as i just found this issue and have work, My car drives OK in drive maybe 30% throttle it may bog a little any more it will misfire it will stutter like im hitting the bumps on the side of the freeway only CYL 6 if i go in sport it will stutter even worse as of now driving in "D" it goes to moderate speeds i cannot do a quick overtake incase of bad drivers or merging onto freeway or i will misfire plz help! IM not sure how this relates to you but my rail pressure averages about 680-720 i went in my buddies car custom tune FBO upgraded turbos stock fueling other than index 12 his averages 720 minimum average it goes low but never like mine is it my HPFP?

It is very difficult to read a post like this, without adequate punctuation.

I've heard that the stock HPFP will work fine with a stage 2 tune. However, your pump is certainly showing typical signs of failure. My pump didn't fail catastrophically, it just became weaker and weaker, suddenly dropping to a lower pressure when demand increased, then throwing codes and limp mode.

The output pressure constantly varies according to demand. You should not be looking at average pressure, but at maximum pressure. Use a live scanning tool to monitor the low-pressure and high-pressure values simultaneously. They should track each other with a multiplication factor of about 10x. When the turbos are in full boost at mid-high RPM, you should be seeing pressures sustained at well over 2000 psi. My pump would reach those pressures temporarily, but would suddenly drop out under load.

Make sure you replace the pump with a new one of the latest design. Do not risk the cheap eBay/Amazon pumps that are poorly refurbished pumps, likely from the obsolete first revision.

[GSB]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out....I was driving home the other day and all of a sudden the car lost power. I limped home and scanned for codes....29DC injector Cutoff. After I restarted the car....it ran smooth again, no issues.

Then I took the car for a drive and recorded a log. As you can see....as soon as I rolled into the throttle, the HPFP pressure started to climb, all of a sudden it took a dump and fell to 400psi....causing another 29DC injector Cutoff fault.

Is this what happens when a HPFP starts to fail? Or is something else going on? It's odd how it fires up and idles fine....but as soon as you put a load on the motor and the pressure starts to built....it just falls on its face. Replace the HPFP??

https://datazap.me/u/iqraceworks/log...ta=1-2-5-12-21

I experienced the same symptoms. Never a single long crank. I also replaced my HPFP with a brand-new BMW pump from FCP Euro. All symptoms vanished (except the extreme sticker shock and usual extortion from BMW).

[BMWJU]

Ive found the issue! after replacing hpfp with new FCP EURO one, My issue did not fix i was getting misfires in CYL 6 & 2, I went to my mechanics house and i removed his spark plugs off of his tuned car and put them in my 2 banks, CYL 6 & 2, I guess ive been having bad spark plugs the whole time, Ive been hearing lately people have been buying defective spark plugs beware! i have logs if anyone is interested

[GSB]

Originally Posted by BMWJU

Ive found the issue! after replacing hpfp with new FCP EURO one, My issue did not fix i was getting misfires in CYL 6 & 2, I went to my mechanics house and i removed his spark plugs off of his tuned car and put them in my 2 banks, CYL 6 & 2, I guess ive been having bad spark plugs the whole time, Ive been hearing lately people have been buying defective spark plugs beware! i have logs if anyone is interested

Wow, that's crazy. Brand new plugs defective? What brand?