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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      03-20-2011, 08:12 PM   #1343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
The Menzerna IP is an older formula so you may want to consider upgrading to the newer Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83 or the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105. With any of these polishes it's critical that the pad is clean, I usually polish with 2+ pads so the pad stays fresh. Go nice and slow and apply medium pressure so the pad slows down just a little bit but certainly does not come close to stopping. Put one black mark on the backing plate so you can readily see how fast the backing plate/pad is moving. Do overlapping passes and move slow and steady. Try this process and let me know how the results turn out.

It's also important to note this combination will not remove all imperfections, it should remove about 60% - 70% of the surface imperfections.
i have plenty of orange pads. What speed should I set the 7424 to?

Thanks for your help! I order all my stuff from FYI.
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      03-20-2011, 11:53 PM   #1344
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I just purchased a CPO 2008 BMW 328XI with Black Sapphire Metallic Paint, leather interior. The paint overall is fine, but I do have some surface scratches, a few deeper scratches that catch your fingernail, a few that look like pain blobs and a few corroded looking spots on my hood, maybe some sap or bird crap got on it and ate thru. I'm new to detailing but I'm willing to put the time/work in to have it right.

I've put together a preliminary list of what I think I need based from your blog/site but I would really appreciate your professional opinion before I place my order. I'm unsure of the best products to fix my paint blemishes, get my paint looking the best and also protect it for months with the full initial detail and follow up minor washes.

Here is what I've come up with so far.

Wash/Clean
-- (1) Pro Kits Pre-Polish Basic Kit (For initial deep clean)
-- (1) Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II (Maintenance washes)
-- (1) Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun
-- (2) DI Accessories Sheepskin Wash Mitts

Polish/Protection (I'm note sure whats the best combo for my paint needs and beginner skill level here.)
-- (1) DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads

Glaze
-- Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II - 16 oz

Sealant
-- (1) Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger

Wax, (Do I need a wax if I use the wet diamond sealant?)
-- (1) Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax

Quick Detailer
-- (1) Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer

Interior
-- (1) 303 Aerospace Protectant

Tires/Wheels
-- (1) Optimum Power Clean

Accessories
-- (2) Grit Guard inserts
-- (1) DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush
-- (3) Lake Country Snappy Clean Pad Cleaner
-- (1) Lake Country Black Finishing Pad - 5.5 inch
-- (1) Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad - 5.5 inch


The white marks are from using turtle wax scratch remover. My amateur first attempt. But after reading a bit online, it looks like I have to wet sand these bad spots in the pictures and apply touch-up paint and use something like Langka blob remover to smooth them out. They will never go away but can look a lot better than they are now.







Last edited by versionk; 03-21-2011 at 09:17 PM.. Reason: typos
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      03-23-2011, 05:54 PM   #1345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
If I'm polishing with a 3-step process (i.e. Sonus SFX-1, SFX-2, SFX-3), will I benefit from using Klasse All-in-One before Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze?
There is a benefit because of the added protection it adds, but the cleaning power is somewhat negated because you've already polished before hand. Therefore you could skip the AIO or keep it in there if desired.

Greg @ DI
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      03-23-2011, 05:56 PM   #1346
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Originally Posted by MaximusJ View Post
Noob question here:

Can you polish bumpers? Do you have to go with a softer polish or is it pretty much the same process as the body polish? Using same products or?

Thanks; appreciated as always.
If it's the same as the rest of the vehicle then polish it just the same. They tend to be more contaminated so spend more time here with your washing, degreasing and claying process so it's thoroughly cleaned before polishing.
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      03-23-2011, 06:00 PM   #1347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by versionk View Post
I just purchased a CPO 2008 BMW 328XI with Black Sapphire Metallic Paint, leather interior. The paint overall is fine, but I do have some surface scratches, a few deeper scratches that catch your fingernail, a few that look like pain blobs and a few corroded looking spots on my hood, maybe some sap or bird crap got on it and ate thru. I'm new to detailing but I'm willing to put the time/work in to have it right.

The white marks are from using turtle wax scratch remover. My amateur first attempt. But after reading a bit online, it looks like I have to wet sand these bad spots in the pictures and apply touch-up paint and use something like Langka blob remover to smooth them out. They will never go away but can look a lot better than they are now.
I know I spoke to you via e-mail so I won't go over the products with you again. So in case anyone else is reading or experiencing a similar problem here is my response: Thank you for the order, we truly appreciate it. The kit you selected (PC Kit with Megs polishes) is very safe and easy to use. It's commonly used on brand new paints and older vehicles to restore the paint so it's a versatile combination of products. It will help remove oxidation, most swirls and ultra fine scratches. For some of the deeper scratches it will not remove them generally speaking but it may make them slightly less noticeable. As for that spot that looks corroded I have no idea what happened there but I'm pretty confident it was not a birds droppings. That certainly looks more serious and I would not polish this area with your buffer. It may need some professional work with wet sanding and a re-application of paint/clear coat. You may be able to tackle it yourself with the right tools but I honestly have not tackled anything similar. Otherwise you are fine to use the polish and buffer on the exterior paint. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

Greg @ DI
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      03-23-2011, 11:25 PM   #1348
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hi Greg, put an order in for my car wash, detail items and can't wait. but noticed yesterday someone hit/scraped my rear quarter. It looks like they rubbed the clear but didn't break through the paint. Would you recommend wet sanding or will a polish be able to smooth it out? i'm a bit concerned since the spot needing work is where the quarter meets the bumper so it's not a flat surface it's on a hard edge.

thanks
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      03-27-2011, 11:36 AM   #1349
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Start off by just washing and claying the area to see it more clearly and possibly remove any paint that has rubbed on to your paint. Then start off with a polish and see what that does. If that doesn't work you can try more aggressive polishes or move up to a light wet sanding (i.e. Meguiar's 2000 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper). After wet sanding don't forget to polish afterward.

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      04-02-2011, 04:38 PM   #1350
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[URL=http://img864.imageshack.us/i/photo2x.jpg/]

[URL=http://img858.imageshack.us/i/photo1dg.jpg/]

Question: What is causing the red/brown rust spots on the clear coat? Is it brake dust? It is all over the sides and rear end of the car!

This is my first winter with the car, and I never saw this over the summer. Is it because my washing frequency decreased, and the brake dust had time to sit on the surface? I washed the car regularly in the summer, at least once a week, sometimes more frequent depending on how dirty it got. However, in the winter I was much less diligent and I went up to 4wks without a wash once (I know )

I fully detailed and prepped the car for winter, and I'm just about ready to do my spring detail. I'm guessing the clay bar should remove the spots, but what can I do to avoid this next winter? Just wash more frequently?

Thanks!
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      04-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #1351
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Those marks are interesting and I'm not honestly sure what they are but I have two guesses. It could be rail dust from trains/train tracks which is normally very tiny orange specs. Another guess is some sort of bug smear but this seems even less likely. I would try removing it while washing and maybe use a little degreaser (i.e. P21S Total Auto Wash or Chemical Guys Bug Bugger & Tar Remover). If that doesn't do I would suggest a clay bar like you stated. Next move up to a polish which should definitely fix it and remove any remaining residue. Good luck and keep us posted!

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      04-07-2011, 09:20 PM   #1352
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I'm getting ready to a spring detail and I'm looking for some advice. Last year I used the E90Post detailing section to determine what products to use and what process to follow. Initially I was happy with the results, but then I saw the car in direct sunlight. This is when I noticed that the paint had a distorted or wavy look to it. I feel like a may be missing a step in between the Menzerna Intensive Polish and the Klasse All-in-One (since the AiO in non-abrassive). Any help would be much appreciated.

Here the steps I took:

1. Quality hand wash
2. Clay with Mothers Instant Detailer
3. Menzerna Intensive Polish
4. Klasse All-in-One
5. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (2 coats with 24 hours between applications)

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      04-10-2011, 02:05 PM   #1353
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You are correct in between the Menzerna IP and the Klasse AIO you want to use a good light cutting polish like the Menzerna Super Finish (PO106FA Nano Polish) and a clean white pad. That will help remove the haze and holograms in the paint. Also make sure you don't use the pad, prime it by applying a tiny bit all over or spraying a little quick detailer on it (Chemical Guys Polishing Pad Conditioner). If you have any other questions please let me know.
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      04-11-2011, 08:50 PM   #1354
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Thanks for the response. Just as a quick follow-up. Is this the type of pad you're recommending to use with the Menzerna Super Finish (PO106FA Nano Polish)?
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      04-12-2011, 01:17 PM   #1355
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Yes that is the one!
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      04-23-2011, 04:24 PM   #1356
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hi, i have a queston. what kind of wax do i need to put on my AW 2009 e92 335i? can anyone give me some choices? where can i get it? thank you!!!!
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      04-24-2011, 09:23 AM   #1357
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headlamp lenses

Hello...I drive a 2011 328i E90. Only had it for almost 6 months and the headlights already look buffed/scratched with light scratches. Instead of the light flowing through the lens, the light now forms a blotch of light on the actual lens itself revealing all the scratches. Is there a way to get it back to brand new crystal clear? I know a majority of the time there's isn't much you can do but I would expect this from an older car...mine is still brand new. Thanks
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      04-24-2011, 09:41 PM   #1358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonlu View Post
hi, i have a queston. what kind of wax do i need to put on my AW 2009 e92 335i? can anyone give me some choices? where can i get it? thank you!!!!
My name is Greg and I'm the owner of www.DetailedImage.com and we're a site sponsor here that would be happy to help you. If you are looking to protect your paint we recommend a sealant or a wax. Sealants are artificial waxes that last about 3 - 6 months. A carnauba wax is a natural based product but it only lasts about 2 - 6 weeks. Therefore we generally recommend sealants for a daily driver. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant that looks amazing and protects for months. If you prefer the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or for a great value try the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax. We offer 10% off to forum members with the coupon code e90post. If you have any questions please let me know.

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      04-24-2011, 10:07 PM   #1359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hessian577 View Post
Hello...I drive a 2011 328i E90. Only had it for almost 6 months and the headlights already look buffed/scratched with light scratches. Instead of the light flowing through the lens, the light now forms a blotch of light on the actual lens itself revealing all the scratches. Is there a way to get it back to brand new crystal clear? I know a majority of the time there's isn't much you can do but I would expect this from an older car...mine is still brand new. Thanks
That can be frustrating and I'm surprised to hear such a new car has such bad haze. Check out these articles about headlights from our professional detailers:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-on-a-budget/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-and-menzerna/

Hopefully they will provide an outline of how to restore them and get them looking clean and clear again. If you have any questions after reading them don't hesitate to ask me. Also don't forget you can protect the exterior of them with a sealant just like you would use on your paint (i.e. Blackfire Wet Diamond, etc.). Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI
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      04-24-2011, 10:27 PM   #1360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
My name is Greg and I'm the owner of www.DetailedImage.com and we're a site sponsor here that would be happy to help you. If you are looking to protect your paint we recommend a sealant or a wax. Sealants are artificial waxes that last about 3 - 6 months. A carnauba wax is a natural based product but it only lasts about 2 - 6 weeks. Therefore we generally recommend sealants for a daily driver. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant that looks amazing and protects for months. If you prefer the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or for a great value try the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax. We offer 10% off to forum members with the coupon code e90post. If you have any questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI
thanks, Greg. what aout The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? what do you think about this combination? if i use this one do i still need a wax??
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      04-24-2011, 10:52 PM   #1361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonlu View Post
thanks, Greg. what aout The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? what do you think about this combination? if i use this one do i still need a wax??
The Klasse products both work great. The Klasse AIO helps clean and protect in one step. The Klasse HGSG looks great and protects really long, however it can be a little bit of a pain to use. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI
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      04-24-2011, 11:26 PM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
The Klasse products both work great. The Klasse AIO helps clean and protect in one step. The Klasse HGSG looks great and protects really long, however it can be a little bit of a pain to use. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI
what do you mean by a little bit of pain to use it??can you explain it please?
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      04-26-2011, 12:21 PM   #1363
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I have some type of buildup on the interior trim of my car and its on there pretty good, any suggestions on how to remove it? Also, I have some black buildup on my wheels (assuming its brake dust) which will not come off with a typical cleaning, any suggestions here?



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      04-26-2011, 09:29 PM   #1364
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hi,I know not much and detail. i want to protect my paint cause i live in apartment. My car will be expose under the sun. It's a AW 335 coupe. I just bought The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaz. Want to use them after wash and dry. What else do I need?
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