[Skoidat69]

from orange oem

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Skoidat69

Changed air filter in my euro box to BMC

Did you get those butt dyno readings?

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Good luck lol those long ones are the exact ones that I just bought and twisted. Sent with an impact on auto and told the shop doing the alignment to retorque them. They said the bolt were already tight when I went to pick it back up

Yep, I have those same HF torx bits. I've twisted 3 of them. Stupid China POS sockets. I'm not a frequent harbor freight shopper, but my experience with their sockets on more than one occasion has influenced me to go elsewhere, like buying cheap used Craftsman and SK sockets on ebay. Yeah HF has a lifetime warranty, but I don't want to have to drive back there 50 times to replace their shit sockets or have to stop halfway through a job because one strips out.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

Yep, I have those same HF torx bits. I've twisted 3 of them. Stupid China POS sockets. I'm not a frequent harbor freight shopper, but my experience with their sockets on more than one occasion has influenced me to go elsewhere, like buying cheap used Craftsman and SK sockets on ebay. Yeah HF has a lifetime warranty, but I don't want to have to drive back there 50 times to replace their shit sockets or have to stop halfway through a job because one strips out.

The twisted one I'm holding is a Stanley. I think I did too much twisting and not enough holding with it. I'm gonna try those stubby ones.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

Yep, I have those same HF torx bits. I've twisted 3 of them. Stupid China POS sockets. I'm not a frequent harbor freight shopper, but my experience with their sockets on more than one occasion has influenced me to go elsewhere, like buying cheap used Craftsman and SK sockets on ebay. Yeah HF has a lifetime warranty, but I don't want to have to drive back there 50 times to replace their shit sockets or have to stop halfway through a job because one strips out.

Tbh these torx sockets are the only ones I've had problems with. And the first set wasnt even HF. I can't tell you how many times we've used their chrome sockets from a tool set on that impact on some pretty stuck nuts or bolts. None have shattered yet

[E92William]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I think we're on the same trajectory colorado, but I did it taking them apart. We'll see if these HF impact bits do any better putting them back.

Properly torquing ball joints is such a pain in the ass this way. I just get an impact that won't go over 100ft lb and hit the nut with it. It will tighten just fine.

[E92William]

Picked up an M52tu disa valve (similar to m54) to take apart and learn the inner workings of it. Surprisingly this being an old oem part there is no play in it. Very nice simple vacuum design. But well with how cheap and plentiful rebuild kits for these are, I won't praise how good it might be

[Skoidat69]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Did you get those butt dyno readings?

unrelated, I'm getting a CEl P0012 so I;m trying to drive gingerly until i have a day off try some fixes.. My car hates the cold and it just went from 50 to 29 overnight earlier this week. Dunno it is a hiccup that will go away or vanos shit/oil filter..

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by E92William

Picked up an M52tu disa valve (similar to m54) to take apart and learn the inner workings of it. Surprisingly this being an old oem part there is no play in it. Very nice simple vacuum design. But well with how cheap and plentiful rebuild kits for these are, I won't praise how good it might be

Man I love pneumatics. I sometimes wish ours were... Without much to back up that want admittedly.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by E92William

Properly torquing ball joints is such a pain in the ass this way. I just get an impact that won't go over 100ft lb and hit the nut with it. It will tighten just fine.

The real prob is you're supposed to be torquing it with the nut and just holding it from spinning with the torx, and that's a mr. spock eyebrow raiser. Makes it hard to get a socket on it with a torx bit and impact in the way. I don't think it matters for stuff like this tbh, put some pressure from underneath with a jack, if that doesn't do it put a box wrench on it and crank it down if you've spun a wrench you know what "tight" is for various parts. IDK I've done most of my wrenching in primitive conditions, tight is tight unless you're talking about clearance parts like heads and bearing caps and such.

[E92William]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

The real prob is you're supposed to be torquing it with the nut and just holding it from spinning with the torx, and that's a mr. spock eyebrow raiser. Makes it hard to get a socket on it with a torx bit and impact in the way. I don't think it matters for stuff like this tbh, put some pressure from underneath with a jack, if that doesn't do it put a box wrench on it and crank it down if you've spun a wrench you know what "tight" is for various parts. IDK I've done most of my wrenching in primitive conditions, tight is tight unless you're talking about clearance parts like heads and bearing caps and such.

Tight is tight is the mindset with suspension work most of the time unless you're able to torque stuff relatively easily imo. For example the front control arms on xdrive the axle is right on top of the arm ball joint and you can't fit a socket on the nut.. best believe I'm not taking out the axle to properly torque the ball joint lol it's going on with a wrench

[E92William]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

Man I love pneumatics. I sometimes wish ours were... Without much to back up that want admittedly.

I wonder if controlling the point at which this vacuum operated one opens and closes is harder to properly gauge given it depends on manifold pressure. Maybe the N52 had to go full electric valves due to valvetronic and the the lack of a shut throttle body? I've heard some guys have issues getting vacuum for their wastegates when putting a turbo on supposedly due to valvetronic.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by E92William

Tight is tight is the mindset with suspension work most of the time unless you're able to torque stuff relatively easily imo. For example the front control arms on xdrive the axle is right on top of the arm ball joint and you can't fit a socket on the nut.. best believe I'm not taking out the axle to properly torque the ball joint lol it's going on with a wrench

I built a F-350 dually from the rear axle to the front bumper and the engine from the block up, only used a torque wrench on engine parts and it hasn't come apart yet. And don't get me started about aluminum bolts and "inch pounds".

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Skoidat69

unrelated, I'm getting a CEl P0012 so I;m trying to drive gingerly until i have a day off try some fixes.. My car hates the cold and it just went from 50 to 29 overnight earlier this week. Dunno it is a hiccup that will go away or vanos shit/oil filter..

I hate it too good luck.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by E92William

I wonder if controlling the point at which this vacuum operated one opens and closes is harder to properly gauge given it depends on manifold pressure. Maybe the N52 had to go full electric valves due to Valvetronic and the lack of a shut throttle body? I've heard some guys have issues getting vacuum for their wastegates when putting a turbo on supposedly due to Valvetronic.

Not-dme-controlled BOVs...I could see it getting a bit complicated with Valvetronic, definitely. A microcontroller with the right inputs could control it just fine..cough... like a DME in an OEM application, but with an aftermarket setup... yeah that could be tricky.

The best vac source for the disas, if they were pneumatic, would be the relatively constant vac pump source (like the exhaust flap uses) but I guess they figured by the time they ran two wires for the solenoid, and a hose to each DISA, you may as well just make them electronic.

Speaking of the exhaust flap.... I can't believe they ran a damn hose all the way down the length of the car...and the two wires to control it when the technology existed to do it with an electronic actuator as the F series does. But, not complaining, because on the F series, the "clink clink" every time the valve opens and closes every 10 seconds is annoying. Part of the reason for pulling the fuse to the thing.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I think we're on the same trajectory colorado, but I did it taking them apart. We'll see if these HF impact bits do any better putting them back.

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I think we're on the same trajectory colorado, but I did it taking them apart. We'll see if these HF impact bits do any better putting them back.

Make sure you get something made with S2 steel. I have the Neiko brand from Amazon and they've been good so far

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

It might be from working in IT, but I despise any screens in new cars, even IDrive on the E90s. The last thing I want when driving home from work would be an IDrive screen distracting me. Some of the digital gauge clusters in new cars give me a headache, which makes sense because if I'm on a screen all day for work I can get migraines. Blue filter glasses do help, but I shouldn't need those to drive a damn car. F you software engineers, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I think we're on the same trajectory colorado, but I did it taking them apart. We'll see if these HF impact bits do any better putting them back.

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

It might be from working in IT, but I despise any screens in new cars, even IDrive on the E90s. The last thing I want when driving home from work would be an IDrive screen distracting me. Some of the digital gauge clusters in new cars give me a headache, which makes sense because if I'm on a screen all day for work I can get migraines. Blue filter glasses do help, but I shouldn't need those to drive a damn car. F you software engineers, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I agree, they should have blue light filters for the screen, I use Nightshift mode on my iPhone all day as I find very white screens to irritate my eyes. I like that the Eseries uses orange for the gauges

[unixnerd]

Most of my tools are Blue Point but for things that might strip out fasteners if they don't fit perfectly or such I use Snap-On. I wrecked a 5mm Allen drain plug once, since then I've used Snap-On for smaller Allens and had no trouble. Same for some of my Torx stuff and all my screwdrivers.

[Ozzie335i]

I walked by it as I took the dog for a walk. The Dinan short shifter broke on half a week ago. None in stock until January. No, I do not power shift the car

[3PedalJake]

It took a while to get these aFe catted headers, with a botched UPS shipment and invalid tracking numbers, but it finally arrived after second try and went right on the car. Got a great price on it from a sponsor on here x-ph.com, good enough that it was (now) worth the nail biting wait. Half the studs came out with the nuts so I replaced all them too.

[Twix]

Hit her with a clay bar and some wax. Removed the side markers and cleaned them up a little with some plastic polish. Probably going to replace them cuz the orange bulbs look like hairy ass crack

[4 Doors]

Originally Posted by 3284me

Vanos went last week and thank God I was within 4 months of the vanos warranty expiring. Got them replaced for free including the oil pan gasket at my dealer! Car runs like new again with 186,000 miles on her.

How did you get the oil pan gasket replaced for free? Or am I reading that incorrectly?