[rlesko]

Installed Dinan axle back exhaust. Picked it up on clearance over the weekend. Install went smoothly and it sounds great. Post install the mid pipe is ever so slightly touching the heat shield , I’ll have to troubleshoot another day.

EDIT: Got under the car and was able to slightly push up the heat shield in areas where it was touching to eliminate the rattle! Phew!

[Cytoplasm0671]

Finally stopped my trunk from randomly opening throughout the day. The trunk would randomly pop open when I was walking around the car to gas it up (via the comfort access, which never properly works), or it would be randomly opened after being parked for a while (I assume via the remote button clicking in my pocket?). Thankfully this never happened on a rainy day! So annoying.

To fix: Used Bimmercode to reduce the seconds needed for remote trunk open by switching FEM_BODY (or FEM_01, I forget) --> RC_TIME_DELAY_BOOTLID 00 -> FF to 32 (8 seconds). So I now I have to hold down the remote button for 8 seconds for the trunk to open, which I rarely use anyways. Then I disabled comfort trunk access with FEM_BODY (or FEM_01, I forget) --> CAM_SMART_OPENER = nicht_aktiv. Trunk problems solved!

[AnimatedDriver]

Upgraded from plain Jane to M Performance brakes. As a bonus, restored my brake pedal firmness when bleeding new calipers with ISTAs assistance. Currently trying to figure out how to update the DSC ECU to acknowledge the new brake setup.

[im_an_alien]

Originally Posted by AnimatedDriver

Upgraded from plain Jane to M Performance brakes. As a bonus, restored my brake pedal firmness when bleeding new calipers with ISTAs assistance. Currently trying to figure out how to update the DSC ECU to acknowledge the new brake setup.

No need to mess with the DSC, VO coding the brakes is all that's required.

[B58 parts]

Originally Posted by AnimatedDriver

Upgraded from plain Jane to M Performance brakes. As a bonus, restored my brake pedal firmness when bleeding new calipers with ISTAs assistance. Currently trying to figure out how to update the DSC ECU to acknowledge the new brake setup.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...highlight=Wort

That's it, ho-wort, is what I remember to search for

Myself .. I haven't touched the f30 much. I've been preoccupied trying to get the e53 x5 6spd on the road, but the sunroof is off the car. I'm an idiot and pressed the button. Finally everything to repair it is here, I should be doing that today but I'm not

I put a can of seafoam in the e36 crankcase, it is running a lot better but still has a tick. I think it's a lifter. They RTV the valve cover, I suspect rtv globs in pickup. I hope it's not the timing chain.

On the f30, I had the b58 all ready to go in months ago, but I did not torque the flywheel correctly. I read the manual wrong. So while I was waiting on some things for that I attempted to do the rear main seal on the donor b58 as it was seeping a bit. Well, I completely failed and destroyed everything, the drill slipped and scratched the crank. I didn't think that would happen. First time I had attempted this. This was on boxing day. I pulled the head and the timing cover and installed a repair sleeve, skf #99353. It looked good, but it didn't work, reinstalled timing cover and new seal. It did not seal. Great.

So, remove crank, remove pistons. Strip block. Block to machine shop for cleaning and other crank from stock blown b58 for very light polish. The bearing color codes all come out the same, some good luck, I can use it standard size. The whole point of buying a donor long block was not to do all this, well, I get to do it twice now. I just wanted to avoid the expense of buying all the tools, well so much for that.

The king bearings are here, waiting on bolts. I'm just going to reuse the rings. I will use the old bolts to check the clearance and reassemble hopefully in a few hours. It's just keeping everything super clean is hard. As soon as I can get a rear main seal to seal, it's just tightening bolts. I do have to update the software to latest, which probably means the DME will lock, which means I have to run the stock high pressure fuel pump for a little bit, which is okay.

The stock b58, I don't know what happened. There was a strange piece of metal trash in cylinder 3. I don't know what it is. I know what it is, but I don't know what it is. I've been up late staring at this, like the X-Files. There were markings in the carbon deposits on the other cylinders of the same trash being in there but escaped through the exhaust. Cylinder 3 it got stuck in there and that must have been the one that closed the plug, I figured it was cylinder 5 with the failed injector, but I never really knew because I dropped the plugs off the table and mixed them up. It was cylinder 3. Cylinder five with the injector looks a little hot, but no scoring. I need to check it for roundness but it looks fine. I think I was running full e85 on that day which may have saved it. The ring lands all look totally fine, the head gasket looks fine, the valves, everything looks totally fine. Some metal particles throughout.

I showed the evidence bag to the machinist and he had the same reaction. It was funny to see the same look from him. He said it's aluminum and is polished on one side and not the other but he didn't know what all is in there.

So the good news there is everything from that engine looks pretty good for a rebuild, but I still don't know what this trash is or where it came from. I just have to source a crank, or repair the donor one I destroyed and will build that one for something.

If anyone knows what this is, it was sitting on piston 3. Light markings on the carbon on the other pistons. It's broken apart a little bit, it was the two pieces, the big one, and that round one. That's the one I can't figure out. It's perfectly round. I did a little baby pull in third gear up a hill and it broke apart terrible and closed the spark plug. I was looking inside the intake manifold this morning actually I still don't know.

[WagonHo]

Last couple of days - washed, paint correction, polished, and coated. Summer wheels need to be cleaned and mounted, and I have a front lip and side splitterss to install. Spring C&C's are just around the corner.

[amancuso]

Originally Posted by Tatanka1961

I had the same problem with my F33.
I was looking into BimmerCode and it actually says this option doesn't work on convertibles. Don't ask why...

It works on my F33 convertible.

[amancuso]

Originally Posted by WagonHo

Last couple of days - washed, paint correction, polished, and coated. Summer wheels need to be cleaned and mounted, and I have a front lip and side splitterss to install. Spring C&C's are just around the corner.

Gorgeous. You heading to TouringFest in April?
https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...-events-016055

[WagonHo]

I'm hopeful - negotiations with the home front are in progress.

Originally Posted by amancuso

Gorgeous. You heading to TouringFest in April?
https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...-events-016055

[paulnur]

Lowered it this weekend,

Hindsight, ECS tuning coils drop is 1.5”-4” and had everything maxed in the rear and was forced with a 1.5” drop at the very least,

Installed some rubber lower perches that gave it another few mm but need to find a better solution as it’s still rubbing over larger bumps,

First two photos was where it was rubbing and was sanded down to take the edge off as it was sharp,

[im_an_alien]

Originally Posted by paulnur

Lowered it this weekend,

Hindsight, ECS tuning coils drop is 1.5”-4” and had everything maxed in the rear and was forced with a 1.5” drop at the very least,

Installed some rubber lower perches that gave it another few mm but need to find a better solution as it’s still rubbing over larger bumps,

First two photos was where it was rubbing and was sanded down to take the edge off as it was sharp,

If you're too low on the rear I'd recommend using this OEM spacer at the top of the spring, you'll get about 8-10 mm. This is a BMW kit used in countries with poor roads, known as the "poor road package". When I lowered my 340 the front was perfect, the rear not so much. Wasn't rubbing but I didn't like the slammed look. I could barely fit a finger btw the tire and the fender. This kit fixed that and looks perfect now. I would take a couple of pics but car's in storage atm...
Part # 33536769473, hard to get in the US, so flea bay is your best bet..

[_ObiJon]

paulnur You can also look into swapping out the springs for taller ones.

Hypercoils.com

[WagonHo]

Originally Posted by im_an_alien

If you're too low on the rear I'd recommend using this OEM spacer at the top of the spring, you'll get about 8-10 mm. This is a BMW kit used in countries with poor roads, known as the "poor road package". When I lowered my 340 the front was perfect, the rear not so much. Wasn't rubbing but I didn't like the slammed look. I could barely fit a finger btw the tire and the fender. This kit fixed that and looks perfect now. I would take a couple of pics but car's in storage atm...
Part # 33536769473, hard to get in the US, so flea bay is your best bet.

Agree with this Had the same issue when I lowered the car; perfect in front but too low in the rear. The bad roads package works a great and corrects for it. eBay from Europe is the way to go. Inexpensive is you find them and easy to install.

[Skyhigh]

Yes, common issue. In Germany referred to as “hanging ass”.
The adapters lift the rear with 8mm from memory. I installed them myself too as I was not happy with the look of the car after dropping it with the ACS springs... it looked like I had bricks in the trunk although empty. ACS delivered the adapters free of charge to me, as a solution to my expressed dissatisfaction.

This all said, I have a hard time understanding why anyone would want or need to lower the car to such an extreme as paulnur here. Extremely impractical plus I guess beauty lies within the eyes of the beholder.

[SirBiggles]

Mine (F36) was too low with just Eibach springs + OEM M Sport shocks. For me it's perfect with Bilstein B8 shocks + Eibach. It's also now a very good compromise between comfort & rolling.

[rlesko]

Chased down a few rattles recently and am soooo much happier with the cabin noise level now.

1. Midpipe was ever so slightly touching the heat shield. Was able to simply push up on the heat shield and shake the muffler to verify no more touching.
2. Rear dome lamp had a vibrating clip that I found from here - https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=941943
3. I applied some insulating tape to the clips holding the rearmost cover on the headliner, where the AM/FM amplifier is housed

[paulnur]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

Yes, common issue. In Germany referred to as “hanging ass”.
The adapters lift the rear with 8mm from memory. I installed them myself too as I was not happy with the look of the car after dropping it with the ACS springs... it looked like I had bricks in the trunk although empty. ACS delivered the adapters free of charge to me, as a solution to my expressed dissatisfaction.

This all said, I have a hard time understanding why anyone would want or need to lower the car to such an extreme as paulnur here. Extremely impractical plus I guess beauty lies within the eyes of the beholder.

Hindsight, it does list on the coils 1-5” to 4” drop meaning you have to drop it at least 1.5” which I agree is way too excessive.

Originally Posted by WagonHo

Agree with this Had the same issue when I lowered the car; perfect in front but too low in the rear. The bad roads package works a great and corrects for it. eBay from Europe is the way to go. Inexpensive is you find them and easy to install.

Originally Posted by im_an_alien

If you're too low on the rear I'd recommend using this OEM spacer at the top of the spring, you'll get about 8-10 mm. This is a BMW kit used in countries with poor roads, known as the "poor road package". When I lowered my 340 the front was perfect, the rear not so much. Wasn't rubbing but I didn't like the slammed look. I could barely fit a finger btw the tire and the fender. This kit fixed that and looks perfect now. I would take a couple of pics but car's in storage atm...
Part # 33536769473, hard to get in the US, so flea bay is your best bet..

You guys are awesome, ordered a pair, they can’t get here soon enough. I will end up ordering springs like ObiJon mentioned once I know exactly what I need to order. I don’t really want to drive the car as it is so it will unfortunately sit until I get the shims, I also accidentally broke the stock intake installing a new turbo inlet so that has to sit regardless until I get those parts also. It’s not so bad driving the S560 everyday 😎

Originally Posted by _ObiJon

paulnur You can also look into swapping out the springs for taller ones.

Hypercoils.com

I will look into this after I get it all dialed in with the inexpensive option the inserts/shims

[NxTH]

New Magsafe charger and a 90 degree USB-cable. Routes to the space between the center console and glove box. The original vent holder protruded too far out of the vent, so I had to McGyver it to be almost flush. I prefer the charger being higher up, easier to glance at it.

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by djacinto

Replaced the aging and brittle cowling. When I got my windshield replaced I told the guy to just send it cause I was going to replace it anyways lol

Looks much better!

10 year and already looking that bad... poor quality

[djacinto]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

10 year and already looking that bad... poor quality

Good thing I replaced it! Texas sun hits differently

[sizanx]

Finished my interior light mod 2.0 that is controlled by 3 rotary encoders using an esp32 that connects to aftermarket bluetooth addressable RGB controller. Custom gradients, onboard effects, dual zone, solid colors and brightness control + added exterior door handle lights:








Only issue is that one of the 4 door handle light is "colder/more blue" than the rest..

[toxik]

Originally Posted by sizanx

Finished my interior light mod 2.0 that is controlled by 3 rotary encoders using an esp32 that connects to aftermarket bluetooth addressable RGB controller. Custom gradients, onboard effects, dual zone, solid colors and brightness control + added exterior door handle lights:








Only issue is that one of the 4 door handle light is "colder/more blue" than the rest..

quality work, good job!