[paradoxical3]

I am going to try reflashing my firmware, maybe it didn't take last time or something.

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by paradoxical3

I am going to try reflashing my firmware, maybe it didn't take last time or something.

I am running 8/9 hex for f series. Its a custom fw terry made me so i can use meth adder on map6.

[loesch]

I've got the turbo upgrade installed finally. Been driving the hell out of my car the last few days. So far so good. I'm still taking it real easy because I still need to install the walbro inline fuel pump upgrade and do the BMS flash. It's definitely beast. I'm hoping I can get the Cobb this year but I want to wait until after BMW fixes the Vanos bolts. Once I get that I'll be going to the dyno. I have a before dyno run so it should be a good comparison.

Some notable points during installation.

• Make sure you take a grease pencil and draw a line across the exhaust side of the turbo and the compressor side that gets replaced. Transfer the line on to the new turbo so you can match the orientation of the PURE exactly.
• The thermostat hoses can scare you at first. It really isn't too bad getting it back together though. It helped to wrap some tape around the smaller hose behind the thermostat and its corresponding fitting on the thermostat. It made remembering its orientation super easy.
• When you install the PURE housing make sure to put it up in the car the same way the old one came out.
• Also make sure to attach and tighten the one bitch bolt for the wastegate actuator before securing the turbo. You will not be able to do this once it's in place.
• Watch the wastegate rod as you put the turbo into the housing. It can get wedged badly between the head and aluminum turbo tubing.
• Do not loosen the green part of the coolant drain plug. Only the blue center piece.
• Make sure you have tons of rubber gloves and paper towels. It's messy.
• When re-installing the strut brace, just barely start all the screws before tightening anything. It will be impossible to get all the screws started if any are tight.
• As you put the thermostat and water pump back in place, do not forget to reconnect the sensors. One on the turbo first, then thermostat, then water pump.
• There are no aluminum bolts as once suspected.
• Don't get too bully with the oil and coolant lines coming off the old turbo. Once out of the car, just wiggle them back and forth while gently pulling up and they'll eventually come out. They are easily bent.
• Have a 10+amp battery charger handy for the coolant bleeding procedure
• There are no aluminum bolts as once suspected.

Here are a bunch of pics I took during the install. They are in order so you can see the progression of removing all the parts. I didn't take any during re-installation because I just wanted to get the damn thing done.
http://1drv.ms/WuRNps

[1cleann55]

Originally Posted by loesch

I've got the turbo upgrade installed finally. Been driving the hell out of my car the last few days. So far so good. I'm still taking it real easy because I still need to install the walbro inline fuel pump upgrade and do the BMS flash. It's definitely beast. I'm hoping I can get the Cobb this year but I want to wait until after BMW fixes the Vanos bolts. Once I get that I'll be going to the dyno. I have a before dyno run so it should be a good comparison.

Some notable points during installation.

• Make sure you take a grease pencil and draw a line across the exhaust side of the turbo and the compressor side that gets replaced. Transfer the line on to the new turbo so you can match the orientation of the PURE exactly.
• The thermostat hoses can scare you at first. It really isn't too bad getting it back together though. It helped to wrap some tape around the smaller hose behind the thermostat and its corresponding fitting on the thermostat. It made remembering its orientation super easy.
• When you install the PURE housing make sure to put it up in the car the same way the old one came out.
• Also make sure to attach and tighten the one bitch bolt for the wastegate actuator before securing the turbo. You will not be able to do this once it's in place.
• Watch the wastegate rod as you put the turbo into the housing. It can get wedged badly between the head and aluminum turbo tubing.
• Do not loosen the green part of the coolant drain plug. Only the blue center piece.
• Make sure you have tons of rubber gloves and paper towels. It's messy.
• When re-installing the strut brace, just barely start all the screws before tightening anything. It will be impossible to get all the screws started if any are tight.
• As you put the thermostat and water pump back in place, do not forget to reconnect the sensors. One on the turbo first, then thermostat, then water pump.
• There are no aluminum bolts as once suspected.
• Don't get too bully with the oil and coolant lines coming off the old turbo. Once out of the car, just wiggle them back and forth while gently pulling up and they'll eventually come out. They are easily bent.
• Have a 10+amp battery charger handy for the coolant bleeding procedure
• There are no aluminum bolts as once suspected.

Here are a bunch of pics I took during the install. They are in order so you can see the progression of removing all the parts. I didn't take any during re-installation because I just wanted to get the damn thing done.
http://1drv.ms/WuRNps

Race today? Lol

[iuhutch]

Was running map 7 today at the track. ~e50 vs n54 FBO w proceed 100% e85 map.

I'm extremely impressed. I know the car has more in it and if you look this car got the jump on me before the cones and I still reeled him in by the 2nd yellow line (first line = 1000ft, second yellow line = qtr mile.

Enjoy

[boostedMPLS]

Originally Posted by iuhutch

Was running map 7 today at the track. ~e50 vs n54 FBO w proceed 100% e85 map.

I'm extremely impressed. I know the car has more in it and if you look this car got the jump on me before the cones and I still reeled him in by the 2nd yellow line (first line = 1000ft, second yellow line = qtr mile.

Enjoy

Definitely can say that I like seeing the N55 running with and pulling on an N54 My favorite part is the quick convo right after the race. The guy is shocked to hear that it's an N55 lol

[iuhutch]

Here was another fun run vs 505hp ford lightning. Ported vortech block, upgraded belt line, e85 and drag radials

[iuhutch]

Originally Posted by boostedMPLS

Definitely can say that I like seeing the N55 running with and pulling on an N54 My favorite part is the quick convo right after the race. The guy is shocked to hear that it's an N55 lol

You should have seen the look on his face! Totally assumed n54. Nice guy tho, definitely has a fast car

[loesch]

Originally Posted by 1cleann55

Race today? Lol

Haha. Not quite yet. Do you have a good dyno guy out there? I know it's a hike but we could plan a dyno day here near State College? There's a real good dyno operator here and he's cool as shit. Gives us a discount now since we go so much. Lol. 50 bucks for 5 pulls.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by boostedMPLS

Definitely can say that I like seeing the N55 running with and pulling on an N54 My favorite part is the quick convo right after the race. The guy is shocked to hear that it's an N55 lol

Very nice! Map 6 would be even faster if the car can handle it.

[iuhutch]

As a buddy called it: this is #racewars bro!

Well... A little night time fun at #provinggrounds anyways lol

[iuhutch]

Originally Posted by loesch

Very nice! Map 6 would be even faster if the car can handle it.

Did track day and rolling races and couldn't have any loose equipment

Just instead of screw with it just went to 7 as had 100+ ron

Just wish I could do backend!

[Newguy123]

Nice runs! So you pulled that n54 in map 7 and not a custom map 6?

[1cleann55]

Originally Posted by loesch

Haha. Not quite yet. Do you have a good dyno guy out there? I know it's a hike but we could plan a dyno day here near State College? There's a real good dyno operator here and he's cool as shit. Gives us a discount now since we go so much. Lol. 50 bucks for 5 pulls.

Is your guy a dyno jet or mustang?

[one30five]

Way to go hutch. You know once that DME breaks and you'll be able to extract even more. You'll be on fire. But not as much as your camp fire lol. Maybe some n55 respect now?

[one30five]

Originally Posted by Newguy123

Nice runs! So you pulled that n54 in map 7 and not a custom map 6?

He has new and I cracked DME. Can't run the backend and typical e blends weren't giving the results he wanted. He did a 102 and e85 blend 102+ octane and map7. Correct me if in wrong hutch but that was the first time you started hitting and maintaining targets past 5k rpm? We spent a couple days trying to find out how to get the best results. Both maps seem to be ok as long as octane is high enough. That is not a scientific statement. So I'm not trying to start some tuner argument over octane and map selection. . It's just the trial and error experience hutch had.


Hutch - you and I are racing TONIGHT!!

[loesch]

Originally Posted by 1cleann55

Is your guy a dyno jet or mustang?

It's neither. Numbers come in somewhere between the two. Be he can do a correction factor that emulates either. It's a water absorption style Dyno-mite dyno (http://www.land-and-sea.com/chassis-...assis-dyno.htm). He calibrates it to vehicle weight, engine inertia based on displacement, and weather conditions. He's legit.

[Nugget]

[QUOTE=weehe126;16583707]

Originally Posted by Nugget

I just went back in your logs until they were stock turbo. Assumed they were probably the best you had unless you didnt post the good/newer ones. Since it got resolved can you link a log of stock turbo on your final version.

We never quite finished my e30 stock turbo map. But this is a standing kilometre on the last revision we did.
http://www.datazap.me/u/nugs/1000m-s...=0&data=4-5-15

Originally Posted by loesch

You did let off before it switched to map 4 btw. This is what I had asked quite a few pages back and didn't get an answer for from BMS. What happens when the 21psi is exceeded? In this case you let off and the pressure jumped just enough to kick you in to map 4.

I work with lots of computer programs so I see the weirdness with which they react to parameters that are out of scope. If a sensor can only read up to 21psi like ours, and it sees 21.2 what does it do? Does it lie and say 21.0? or does it freak out and say 101010010101, or 0? If the JB4 is expecting certain input who knows what the output would be if the sensor reports false readings. That was one of the things I was concerned about initially with this upgrade.

The stock sensor can read up to 21.6psi. I've gone up to 24 psi according to my boost gauge but don't recommend it. Even Terry said he stopped making more power after 21psi with a stage 2 turbo.

[335iFFM]

Hey guys .
Can anyone of you post up a CSV-Log with high boost values? I'm interested in your PWM values

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by 335iFFM

Hey guys .
Can anyone of you post up a CSV-Log with high boost values? I'm interested in your PWM values

My pwm is at 95+ when running max boost. That is 20.x psi midrange till 5200 then 19.5 at 5500, 17.8 at 6k and 16.5 at 6500.
Thats with wagner competition fmic.

What data are you looking for?

[Pure Turbos]

Hey Guys,

We are a Cobb dealer now. If anyone is interested in a Cobb AP, send us a PM.

Thanks
-Jesse

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

Hey Guys,

We are a Cobb dealer now. If anyone is interested in a Cobb AP, send us a PM.

Thanks
-Jesse

Ah Jesse you are still alive ?