[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

It commonly corrodes and is very easy to replace. You can get an equivalent strap from an auto parts store and since it's easy to see with the hood open, you can keep an eye on it if it proves to not be as resistant to corrosion as the oem one.

This is the one by the windshield washer. It's kinda green but not that bad. Should I replace it?

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

This is the one by the windshield washer. It's kinda green but not that bad. Should I replace it?

No, it's fine. There's lots of life left in that one.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by nsjames

not every extension I own, but a fair chunk of them.

old ground strap was pretty cooked.

and then I washed it because the winter coating of salt was getting pretty nasty. I can't wait to go back to summer wheels.

Still looking good. I should have swapped my grounds when I did the mounts...but they're fairly easy to access. You need one of these bad boys...made my life a little easier with those
particular nuts:

GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Locking Impact Extension, 33" - 84438N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N41Q9QO...UTF8&psc=1

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Still looking good. I should have swapped my grounds when I did the mounts...but they're fairly easy to access. You need one of these bad boys...made my life a little easier with those
particular nuts:

GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Locking Impact Extension, 33" - 84438N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N41Q9QO...ing=UTF8&psc=1

sadly all of my extra long extensions were in a tool bg stoeln last year and I haven't replaced them.

lost probably $500 worth of shit.

[3PedalJake]

Cleaned up my wheels and tires, they're not great but better than they were. Good enough to run for now until it's time to put summer tires on it then I think I'll replace them both at the same time.

Finished replacing the last of the underpanel and wheel well 8MM screws, in case anyone is wondering how many there are it's a pile like this (about 75 of them).

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Cleaned up my wheels and tires, they're not great but better than they were. Good enough to run for now until it's time to put summer tires on it then I think I'll replace them both at the same time.

Finished replacing the last of the underpanel and wheel well 8MM screws, in case anyone is wondering how many there are it's a pile like this (about 75 of them).

I tried cleaning the back of my wheels but there's so much caked-on brake dust that I just gave up Maybe I should buy some wheel cleaner but I dont really want to risk messing the finish up

Why'd you change all the bolts? I mean, they do look pretty rusty tho.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Cleaned up my wheels and tires, they're not great but better than they were. Good enough to run for now until it's time to put summer tires on it then I think I'll replace them both at the same time.

Finished replacing the last of the underpanel and wheel well 8MM screws, in case anyone is wondering how many there are it's a pile like this (about 75 of them).

1. Those bolts are gross- where's your car from again? I bet it's a lot nicer under there now.

2. Wheels looking very good. My 162s have visible light scratches along the face on certain spots, almost like sandpaper? Not sure how to go about getting it out. Afraid to polish them as well since I haven't done that before to wheels.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

1. Those bolts are gross- where's your car from again? I bet it's a lot nicer under there now.

2. Wheels looking very good. My 162s have visible light scratches along the face on certain spots, almost like sandpaper? Not sure how to go about getting it out. Afraid to polish them as well since I haven't done that before to wheels.

My wheels paint is starting to peel. I'll probably get them refinished once I need new tires (in like 3-5 years). It'll probably cost $500-$600 to refinish and repair all 4 wheels.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

My wheels paint is starting to peel. I'll probably get them refinished once I need new tires (in like 3-5 years). It'll probably cost $500-$600 to refinish and repair all 4 wheels.

Your tires last more than a year?! Damn!

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by AlpineE93

All I wanted to do was replace a lower shock mount....fucking e93s. Mainly I'm just prepping for my first track day coming up this spring.


upload images

Tracking a e93

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

Your tires last more than a year?! Damn!

LMAO, I haven't really driven the car since covid hit (I only drove 4k miles the two years I've had it). But, my front tires aren't so hot. That's probably because when I brought the car, the thrust arm bushings were bad (I think the previous owner knew they were bad but didn't care to fix it since he was selling the car). I had them replaced after I started hearing a clunk when I would brake.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

I tried cleaning the back of my wheels but there's so much caked-on brake dust that I just gave up Maybe I should buy some wheel cleaner but I dont really want to risk messing the finish up

Why'd you change all the bolts? I mean, they do look pretty rusty tho.

My barrels were nasty, so nasty that I figured they couldn't get any worse. I hit them with Iron remover and bug and tar remover, both took some crud off but not a lot. I ended up scrubbing them with a green scouring pad and brake cleaner, it didn't hurt them any and got a lot but not all of the crud off.

That *is* why I changed them, they are all rusty and I can't stand it. It's prelim work like this that makes all subsequent work more enjoyable, it's all clean and rust free and comes apart without impact tools and cutting wheels and implements of destruction with no grit falling in your face while you work.

Originally Posted by JonOhh

1. Those bolts are gross- where's your car from again? I bet it's a lot nicer under there now.

2. Wheels looking very good. My 162s have visible light scratches along the face on certain spots, almost like sandpaper? Not sure how to go about getting it out. Afraid to polish them as well since I haven't done that before to wheels.

It from PA and NJ, lots of salt everywhere any time there's a hint of snowfall. It was disgusting underneath everything was corroded or rusted. It looks better than it did the day it rolled off the assembly line now

Thx, the low res pics don't show each one has some degree of curb rash and the barrels were beyond totally cleaning, but they came a long way with a little elbow grease. I put new caps on them and coated with Magic Guard and Maguiars Endurance gel on the rubber. They're now kinda beat looking but very shiny. I'm gonna try my hand at refinishing them one of these days.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

My barrels were nasty, so nasty that I figured they couldn't get any worse. I hit them with Iron remover and bug and tar remover, both took some crud off but not a lot. I ended up scrubbing them with a green scouring pad and brake cleaner, it didn't hurt them any and got a lot but not all of the crud off.

That *is* why I changed them, they are all rusty and I can't stand it. It's prelim work like this that makes all subsequent work more enjoyable, it's all clean and rust free and comes apart without impact tools and cutting wheels and implements of destruction with no grit falling in your face while you work.



It from PA and NJ, lots of salt everywhere any time there's a hint of snowfall. It was disgusting underneath everything was corroded or rusted. It looks better than it did the day it rolled off the assembly line now

Thx, the low res pics don't show each one has some degree of curb rash and the barrels were beyond totally cleaning, but they came a long way with a little elbow grease. I put new caps on them and coated with Magic Guard and Maguiars Endurance gel on the rubber. They're now kinda beat looking but very shiny. I'm gonna try my hand at refinishing them one of these days.

I might try ironx on them in the spring or whenever I detail the car again.

Interestingly, the bolts holding the belly pan on my car aren't that badly rusted. But, they're kinda rusted.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

I might try ironx on them in the spring or whenever I detail the car again.

Interestingly, the bolts holding the belly pan on my car aren't that badly rusted. But, they're kinda rusted.

I used this stuff, it was $21 for a gallon off Amazon and seemed to work well, gets good reviews but like I said the wheels were pretty far gone. I didn't get before pics but they were orangey-black inside the barrels, brake cleaner was the only thing that really cut into it.

Try unscrewing a few, if it sounds like it's grinding sand like mine did they're rusty. About 1 in 5 clip nuts needed replacing too, some just spin apart from corrosion. You're luck if a ChiTown car isn't just as bad altho mine has a few years on you.

Edit: I think the wheel well screws were the worst, the front belly pan and trans pan screws that got a lot of shall we say "excess lube" are the better looking ones in the scrap pile.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I used this stuff, it was $21 for a gallon off Amazon and seemed to work well, gets good reviews but like I said the wheels were pretty far gone. I didn't get before pics but they were orangey-black inside the barrels, brake cleaner was the only thing that really cut into it.

Try unscrewing a few, if it sounds like it's grinding sand like mine did they're rusty. About 1 in 5 clip nuts needed replacing too, some just spin apart from corrosion. You're luck if a ChiTown car isn't just as bad altho mine has a few years on you.

Edit: I think the wheel well screws were the worst, the front belly pan and trans pan screws that got a lot of shall we say "excess lube" are the better looking ones in the scrap pile.

Try unscrewing a few, if it sounds like it's grinding sand like mine did they're rusty. About 1 in 5 clip nuts needed replacing too, some just spin apart from corrosion. You're luck if a ChiTown car isn't just as bad altho mine has a few years on you.

Nah, I removed my belly pan a few months back to clean it when I did the mickey mouse flange (dropped some coolant from the mickey mouse flange on the belly pan). The screws came off pretty easily. They didn't sound like grinding sand, I think. I forgot (looks like I'm losing my mind from staying home for so long)

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

My first car had an AM/FM radio! Not that the FM mattered, the only FM station I could get was a CBC talk radio station, and it was all french. I wasn't long buying a cheap cassette player and wiring it in. It was a Kraco that mounted under the dash with two L-brackets. You had to eject the tape and flip it over to listen to the other side. Oh and it had fast-forward too!

We must be about the same vintage, I had the cassette player that you flipped and FF to rewind too in my '70 El Camino . I think it was a pushbutton tuner AM in my '68 Skylark, but who cares it had a Rocket 350 I don't miss the stereos but I wish I still had the El'

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

Try unscrewing a few, if it sounds like it's grinding sand like mine did they're rusty. About 1 in 5 clip nuts needed replacing too, some just spin apart from corrosion. You're luck if a ChiTown car isn't just as bad altho mine has a few years on you.

Nah, I removed my belly pan a few months back to clean it when I did the mickey mouse flange (dropped some coolant from the mickey mouse flange on the belly pan). The screws came off pretty easily. They didn't sound like grinding sand, I think. I forgot (looks like I'm losing my mind from staying home for so long)

Try it with the wheel well screws, the belly pans get lots of oiling

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Try it with the wheel well screws, the belly pans get lots of oiling

I removed those also when I took my front bumper off to have it repainted in huh August? Damn, I'm only 23 but feel like I'm 45 forgetting stuff

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

I removed those also when I took my front bumper off to have it repainted in huh August? Damn, I'm only 23 but feel like I'm 45 forgetting stuff

How long have you had yours? Or more to the point how long didn't you have it? And where is it from? If it's a Chicago car it was well taken care of or not used in the winter to not be rusted up. Cars that spend their life as dailys here in the NE look pretty grody after 10-15 yrs.

LOL @ 23, I've owned vehicles longer than you've been around I should be the one doing the forgetting around here.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

How long have you had yours? Or more to the point how long didn't you have it? And where is it from? If it's a Chicago car it was well taken care of or not used in the winter to not be rusted up. Cars that spend their life as dailys in the NE look pretty grody after 10-15 yrs.

LOL @ 23, I've owned vehicles longer than you've been around I should be the one doing the forgetting around here.

I've had mines since August 2019. It's spent its whole life in Chicago. The previous owner (1st owner) brought it in on 03/31/2009 from Bill Jacobs BMW in Naperville, IL (the car was produced in Jan 2009). I wonder if the previous owner factory ordered this car or was it sitting on the dealer's lot ?

The previous owner only put 67k miles on it the 10 years he had it (and spent $3,500 on repairs). I put 4k miles on it the 2 years (and spent $2,700 on repairs). Every time I drove in the snow I would wash it every week or so (touchless wash with the undercarriage jet thingy). So, that's probably why there's hardly any rust on the undercarriage.

When I took my car to my indy for the first time (I had them do the OPG VGC, front brake job, and the front control arm bushings. I could've done those things myself except for the OPG but I had 0 tools or time). The owner (Retired BMW master Tech) was surprised at how there was hardly any rust on the undercarriage.

Now it's not being driven at all because of coivd

I know this is off-topic, but when I found out my Oil Pan Gasket was seeping, I really regretted buying a BMW. My only two options at the time were either spending the $2,700 to fix my BMW or sell the BMW, put in an extra $8k-$10k, and buy a certified pre-owned Toyota Camry . I actually went and took a look at a few Toyota Camrys during my work hours (I would just take a dealership car to the nearest Toyota Dealership ). But, logically speaking, it made more sense to fix the BMW than buying a few years old Toyota Camry.

Sometimes a issues arises (not really a major issue) that pisses me off and I start regretting buying a BMW. But, once I hop in the drives seat, or take a good look at it, all changes I've been dealing with a slow catch/fire issue. Hopefully, it's just bad gas from sitting. Idk if you want to chime in or not.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

I've had mines since August 2019. It's spent its whole life in Chicago. The previous owner (1st owner) brought it in on 03/31/2009 from Bill Jacobs BMW in Naperville, IL (the car was produced in Jan 2009). I wonder if the previous owner factory ordered this car or was it sitting on the dealer's lot ?

The previous owner only put 67k miles on it the 10 years he had it (and spent $3,500 on repairs). I put 4k miles on it the 2 years (and spent $2,700 on repairs). Every time I drove in the snow I would wash it every week or so (touchless wash with the undercarriage jet thingy). So, that's probably why there's hardly any rust on the undercarriage.

When I took my car to my indy for the first time (I had them do the OPG VGC, front brake job, and the front control arm bushings. I could've done those things myself except for the OPG but I had 0 tools or time). The owner (Retired BMW master Tech) was surprised at how there was hardly any rust on the undercarriage.

Now it's not being driven at all because of coivd

I know this is off-topic, but when I found out my Oil Pan Gasket was seeping, I really regretted buying a BMW. My only two options at the time were either spending the $2,700 to fix my BMW or sell the BMW, put in an extra $8k-$10k, and buy a certified pre-owned Toyota Camry . I actually went and took a look at a few Toyota Camrys during my work hours (I would just take a dealership car to the nearest Toyota Dealership ). But, logically speaking, it made more sense to fix the BMW than buying a few years old Toyota Camry.

Sometimes a issues arises (not really a major issue) that pisses me off and I start regretting buying a BMW. But, once I hop in the drives sit, or take a good look at it, all changes I've been dealing with a slow catch/fire issue. Hopefully, it's just bad gas from sitting. Idk if you want to chime in or not.

Thats a car worth keeping then, low miles and rust free. Mine was by most ppls standards a basket case with over 200k miles, but it's kinds liberating when you don't have to decide should I replace this item or that on every little thing, just rip it all out and start fresh. I'm glad it's not my daily tho, I have a 08 Accord 5MT that always runs and never complains, and the bimmer does seem to love time on the lift.

I'm reading your thread, but I'm too new to this engine to be any help on specific stuff like that. Those kind of half-problems are always the hardest to sort out. If it doesn't start at all is usually much easier than a random hesitation. Good luck w/ it

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Thats a car worth keeping then, low miles and rust free. Mine was by most ppls standards a basket case with over 200k miles, but it's kinds liberating when you don't have to decide should I replace this item or that on every little thing, just rip it all out and start fresh. I'm glad it's not my daily tho, I have a 08 Accord 5MT that always runs and never complains, and the bimmer does seem to love time on the lift.

I'm reading your thread, but I'm too new to this engine to be any help on specific stuff like that. Those kind of half-problems are always the hardest to sort out. If it doesn't start at all is usually much easier than a random hesitation. Good luck w/ it

I'm just not going to worry about that issue. The car still starts so .

I used to drive a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L that my parents brought for my (spoiled) sister . She used to drive my parent's 2003 BMW 330XI to college and back. But, the car hit 120k miles on it and needed a few things here and there so they sold it for the accord in 2013.

I brought the BMW because my dad's 1998 Toyota Camry was on its way out (it had 197k miles on it). Dad brought it brand new in 1997. So, he was going to take the Accord to work and I needed a car to drive to work and school. My mom was overseas at the time the Camry Kinda went bye bye so I drove my mom's minivan for a few months to school and work (It was super embarrassing ) but, I had no choice.

I actually stumbled upon my car on offerup The previous owner had it listed at $9,750 (seemed pretty cheap back then imo). I got him down to $8,500 on the phone. When it came to the final payment time, I got him down to $8,250. We were actually not going to end up taking the car home because our insurance company was closed that day (it was a Sunday. I think we had Allstate at the time) and I couldn't get the car insured. Luckily, we got proof of insurance online.