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Alpine Hifi upgrade
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05-08-2009, 11:13 AM | #133 |
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Matt, are you getting the bass rubbing on radio, CD, or MP3 CD? Do. for the tweeter.
Try giving the tweeter triangle a bash in case it's not sitting right. Next question, what settings do you have treble and bass at? I have treble at 2 and bass at 4. 4 is a bit much for bass if I have a loud source (MP3 tracks vary in their sound level I find). I have it at 4 because I don't usually play it that loudly but if I play a loud track at high volume, 4 is too much for the subs. |
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05-08-2009, 11:19 AM | #134 |
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when you say too much for the subs do you mean it distorts or just not to your liking?
Just trying to get a feel of what it sounds like. Dont suppose anyone with the upgrade lives in the Yorkshire area for me to have a listen first!? |
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05-08-2009, 01:03 PM | #135 |
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Ok I am just thinking out loud here guys, so just help me.
I get the feeling (looking at the wiring diagram of the alpine upgrade) that the wire connecting the amplifier to the head unit just tapps on the high level signal output from the head unit. The amplifier then converts it to low level and then after amplifying it, feeds it back to the two subwoofers and two midbas and two tweeters. The high level to low level conversion takes very little of the power output from the head unit. There is plenty left over! What one could do as an extra gimmick is to parallel tap the high level output from the head unit and take it to two extra speakers (one on each side) and mount these speakers on the extreme back of the car making it in effect a 10 speaker system. You don't even have to buy the speaker, just use the front door speakers that you removed to mount the alpine kit speakers. We have a kind of a "hybrid surround sound" without the centre channel. The question is where to mount these rear most speakers in the touring model? |
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05-08-2009, 02:29 PM | #136 | |
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Ok mate I will bash away and see whats happening there - I had planned to take the whole door card apart at some point so that might do the trick as well. As I do have the polystyrene inserts, I suppose it might be buzzing a bit or something? I have tried with your settings mate, for my preference its more like 4 treble and 6 bass - but I have tried it with the bass and treble all the way down and it makes no difference - the only thing which helps is turning down the overall volume. Some basslines/treble just seems to disagree with it. The bass is a bit weird - its more like the cone is touching the plastic protector, or another thing is vibrating - maybe like the wiring we put back in is touching something or whatever... Its very odd, but it all happens at volumes much lower than the original one used to work at. Robbie - I am in Leeds mate, I would be more than happy to meet up with you to show the system in action, but as you can see - I have some teething problems for now. Matt |
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05-08-2009, 06:57 PM | #137 |
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That would be really great of you if you could. I'll let you get it sorted first hey! I pass through Leeds quite a bit so would be ideal for me...
Drop me a PM if you want when you figure out what's going on! :-) |
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05-09-2009, 04:29 PM | #139 |
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Matt,
I wonder if the wiring is right (as u have suspected yourself before). I wonder if the bas unit is getting the signal meant for mid range/ tweeter and vice versa? It is just a thought. I hope that u will be able to find and rectify the problem. Good luck! Raj. Last edited by raj55; 05-10-2009 at 09:14 AM.. |
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05-12-2009, 08:08 AM | #140 |
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Guys,
The nearside tweeter rattle/vibration was due to the tweeter not being mounted quite right in the new door trim. It was a little loose, pushed it hard until we got a click and then cocooned it in insulating tape as it was still slightly 'jiggly' Now sorted. I will update on the vibrating sub ASAP and also still due to put the pics up Matt |
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05-14-2009, 05:29 AM | #141 |
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Be careful!
My kit arrived 2 days ago, and when i opened the box at home ,I had a little
surprise inside of the box One of the tweeters was damaged, I am lucky that i was able to repair it. I also will make a D.I.Y. guide about the reapir. So, when you go to pick up your kirs at the dealership ,please open the box to avoid this kind of situations. The two last pictures are the results of the rapair...
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05-14-2009, 12:46 PM | #142 |
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That depression can usually be pulled up by attaching lightly masking tape over it and then pulling up the depression along with the tape, gently. That is how I have done previously. I don't know what approach you used.
We are all waiting eagerly for your and Matts photo guide on how to install the upgrade packet. |
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05-16-2009, 02:44 PM | #143 |
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Hi all,
i tryied today to fit my Alpine kit as well... unfortunately i havent finished yet since i dont have rear folding seats and that was a big problem for me... finally i managed to bring the harness to the front two sides, made the connections ( i believe correct) and connected the amp to the power and grounding, i still have the passengers side left to do tommorrow. it seems something is wrong though... when i turn on the radio, i wait for a few sec until voice comes from the front speakers and when it finnaly comes the volume is lower than the rear ones! that means that the rear speakers play louder than the fron ones!!! i tryied to make some settings with fader and balance and with the radio on full volume the front speakers (mid bass and tweeter) play normal and not loud! actulally they play less louder than before!!! any suggestions why? is it because i still havent connected the passengers side? is it any connection wrong? if the connections were wrong i would not have voice from the speakers at all i believe.... please help.... Peter |
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05-16-2009, 06:31 PM | #144 |
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As I understand from what other people have written before, the delay with the front speakers is normal because the amplifier (from the kit) has to come on before it can deliver. As far as the low amplitude sound is concerned, I would personally connect the other side too before making further analysis. Nobody has commented about the amplitude problem with the front new speakers before.
On second guess perhaps the amplifier needs sound input connections from both sides before it can deliver proper out put. |
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05-17-2009, 01:29 PM | #145 |
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Finally finished installing the kit.
UNFORTUNATELY it doesnt work..... i have spend 2 days ont his project and i am really dissapointed. i am sure that the connections are correct. the amplifier on has a led tha flashes red and i only get sound from the rear speakers. i tried disconnecting the drivers side again abd then the amplifiers lamp became green and the sound was amazing but only at the right side of the car. when trying to connect the drivers side as well the sound went off and the red lamp was flassing again. please any suggestions are welcome.... |
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05-17-2009, 04:51 PM | #146 | |
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Quote:
http://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=11090 |
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05-18-2009, 06:51 AM | #147 |
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is it normal with the engine shut off and the key away from the ignition the lamp of the amplifier to flash red?
the amplifier takes power continiusly? i have connected the amplifier at the postivive pole of the battery and the negative cable to the main grounding of the car at the right back side as the instructions say. maybe there is a mistake from my side with the connections there..... i have tryied 5 times to check the cables of the original harness and see which is which.... i am afraid i may have done some damage to the amplifier while changing connections and thats why the led is flashing red.......... but on the other hand the fuse is ok! Last edited by cobalt; 05-18-2009 at 08:05 AM.. |
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05-18-2009, 08:21 AM | #148 |
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Arright, looking through this post and thinking about getting it for myself, phoned my dealer and they are asking £290 delivered to my door, this is all in, the kit and the mouldings, is this a fair price to pay, keeping in mind it is getting delivered from mainland to scottish island and i apparently got 7.5% discount for knowing the part numbers and i bought the car there?
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05-18-2009, 08:22 AM | #149 | |
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Matt |
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05-19-2009, 07:51 AM | #151 |
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It was Chris O'Dea at Derek Woodmans in Blackpool - Its ok to advise on things like that, as Derek Woodman are not directly advertising.
Note that the price differs from Coupe to Saloon, mine was a Saloon which is traditionally more expensive. The kit has been as low as £215 for a Coupe, but it seems that the cheapest you could get it now is about £250 for a Coupe and £270 for the Saloon. This is because the Saloon comes with significantly more plastic. The Saloon came with polystyrene inserts for behind the tweeter which prevents wind noise, it seems a lot of Coupe owners have not received the same foam pieces, so be sure that if yours is a Coupe you ask Chris if its included or not - He is a nice bloke, helpful and will be happy to do all he can to find out. Tell him Matt pointed you that way, or RCUK (cant remember his real name) as he has supplied a few of us from here with this kit. Matt |
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05-19-2009, 08:04 AM | #152 |
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I want to upgrade the stereo in my e90( the volume is too quiet!) and don't want to change the head unit like I did in my previous car(e46) as I want to keep the factory look.I understand that for about £500 the Alpine amplifier is a relatively cheap and easy way to improve the overall sound and volume.If I do just this upgrade and add no extra speakers,amps and so forth,will this be enough to satisfy me?.
Last edited by Kenno; 05-19-2009 at 08:31 AM.. |
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05-19-2009, 11:00 AM | #153 |
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Mate,
The Alpine kit includes an Alpine Amp, Alpine Front Speakers and Tweeters! You dont need to pay £500 unless you cant fit it yourself... if you do need it fitted, buy it from Chris at Derek Woodman as I have said above, and then get an independant Audio shop to fit it. Matt |
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05-25-2009, 11:35 AM | #154 |
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Ok I have finally started the project (alpine hifi kit). Today, installed the mid range and tweeters on both front doors. It was a bit scary pulling all those plastic clips, but they held on and so far no injury to the car. It allready sounds great with just the new midrange and tweeter added. The upper end soars, the midrange is clear and the bas is tight and louder. This is what the sound should have been like in the basic version! I used the instructions on this site to remove the door panels. It has good instructions with tips and pictures. It does not tell you how to remove the L or C shaped plastic trim that covers the upper edge of window and contains the tweeter (also called sail). It pulls out easily enough. Re attaching that L or c shaped trim was a pain in the ----. There is a tongue in that piece that is supposed to lie under the rubber seal and that is where it does not want to go! You will recognize it when you get there!
http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/pr...n_Standard.pdf I guess one of the cheapest project would have been to just change the front door speakers with a non oem mid range and tweeter of good quality. The non oem tweeter can be easily attached to the sail on the L plastic trim. Drill a round hole in that thin plastic sail and push the tweeter in to wedge. The plastic trim even has a foam cushion behind it (in the E91). Tomorrow, I am going to tackle the amplifier connections. My main worries are, (1) How do I remove the back seat and back seat backrest? (2) How do I remove the side cushion in the back seat to tunnel the wires to the front part of the car? (3) How do I identify the wires to make proper connections? I just noticed that the Slovakians had misslabelled the wire going to the head unit of one side to bas speaker of that side!! The speakers and the harness is made in Slovakia and the amplifier is made in China. Grateful for tips. Raj. |
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