[canam_banana]

Thanks for the reply and pointers, rbreding.

Would you have some recommendations for indy shops in the Bay Area in CA? I'd appreciate any referrals. (I wonder if they would do as good a job as the pictures shared here by the guys doing the soda cleaning and sonic cleaning as shown by lee4him and mike325.)

Originally Posted by rbreding

Indy pricing in Kalifornia has show to be around $1000 for a good job. There are shops charging less but work has been suspect or confused for a gasser.

After you have it cleaned why not have a simple stage 1 tune to turn off the EGR and keep all your emissions equipment intact. This will eliminate the major culprit of CBU. Since the EGR is still there and all readiness will show you should pass SMOG without an issue even at a legit SMOG shop.

I would consider meth on a stock vehicle a waste of money really. Just do the above.

[nicklockard]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hsFTc9gLCTiRau3d7

Ports at 146K miles (335d)--never been CBU cleaned.

[Mik325tds]

I learned something new about the adaptation reset today. A friend visited me after cleaning the CBU and had a very rough engine idle. He had the following faults set:
0x004596 4596 Smooth running controller, cylinder 3
0x00459C 459C Smooth running controller, cylinder 1
0x004AD5 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 1
0x004AF6 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 3
0x004CE3 DDE: Misfire detection, cylinder 3

We reset all adaptations with ISTA but it didn't really help much, we could still feel the engine shaking in the drivers seat. It wasn't until I reset the correction values of the injectors that the engine finally ran smooth again. It was a night and day difference. Below is the job in ISTA which really should be part of the Adaptation chapter but is hidden further down.

[BMWerkeUSA]

Very nice

[Big_Daddy_38]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I learned something new about the adaptation reset today. A friend visited me after cleaning the CBU and had a very rough engine idle. He had the following faults set:
0x004596 4596 Smooth running controller, cylinder 3
0x00459C 459C Smooth running controller, cylinder 1
0x004AD5 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 1
0x004AF6 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 3
0x004CE3 DDE: Misfire detection, cylinder 3

We reset all adaptations with ISTA but it didn't really help much, we could still feel the engine shaking in the drivers seat. It wasn't until I reset the correction values of the injectors that the engine finally ran smooth again. It was a night and day difference. Below is the job in ISTA which really should be part of the Adaptation chapter but is hidden further down.

Going on 800 miles since visiting Mik325tds. Still running smoothly. Thanks Mik.

[GreyBeardSTX]

This was a very helpful thread! I wish I would have read this before I tackled the CBU cleaning job myself. With 135K on my 335D there and a TON of CBU (could barely stick an 5 mil allen key through the intake port) I made a huge mess in my garage!

[RED-d]

I did my cbu cleaning last yr and always wanted to post a few pics of my setup. Follow the guidelines here but do any modifications you think will help you. Everyone is different.

[RED-d]

For cylinder 6 I used a flex drain tube. Put the wand down and covered the rest of the opening with my hand to keep the shells going into the vacuum. If I'd have done this one first I probably would have done them all this way. So much more flexibility than the rigid vacuum attachments. If you keep a mark on the wand so you don't pull out too far it's all good. You don't need as large hole in the flex tube that I had. This was a one off experiment.

[RED-d]

two pics are the tools I used to clean out the valves after cleaning. Blowing and sucking.

I'd love to add a couple Richard Pryor jokes here but trying to help revive this forum without getting banned.

[Darkswarmer]

How the hell does the wand hook up to the media blaster end?[IMG][/IMG]

What am I missing??

[Darkswarmer]

Another pic

[Darkswarmer]

The wand comes with a much smaller nut than the Eastwood 100lb media blaster I bought. The trigger on it seems to just block the end in order to control the flow. Even if I can't get the want attached, how do a preserve the stop/go function of the trigger, if the want moves the end of the outlet beyond the reach of the trigger?

[terry335d]

I did the CBU a few years ago, and a couple of guys from the 335i world cobbled together plumbing bits to adapt the wands. I know that's not much help but it can be done. I'll see if I can find it.

[Darkswarmer]

Guys, I've gotten past connecting the blaster wand to the media blaster and it's working great. Problem is, with the wand I have, I cannot get the a good angle that far down the valve to blast half of the carbon off. See pics. I don't see how the straight wand with the curved tip would help do that. This is cylinder 1 I think (closest to the bumper), and it's the top one, closest to passenger side. I can't remember but I think the side valve port is called tangential... whatever it's the top one I'm having trouble with.

Did you guys have to switch wands or bend them each time you cleaned the top/bottom ports?? That wand and adapter worked like a dream for the side/bottom port of cyl 1 (closest to bumper).

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

[Darkswarmer]

Look at this video

Some shells got into the cylinder. This is the only cylinder that has shells that got leaked in. Do you guys think I am OK or I need to get them out? I don't even know how I would get them out. Thoughts?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Darkswarmer

Guys, I've gotten past connecting the blaster wand to the media blaster and it's working great. Problem is, with the wand I have, I cannot get the a good angle that far down the valve to blast half of the carbon off. See pics. I don't see how the straight wand with the curved tip would help do that. This is cylinder 1 I think (closest to the bumper), and it's the top one, closest to passenger side. I can't remember but I think the side valve port is called tangential... whatever it's the top one I'm having trouble with.

Did you guys have to switch wands or bend them each time you cleaned the top/bottom ports?? That wand and adapter worked like a dream for the side/bottom port of cyl 1 (closest to bumper).

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

You have to swap the wands for the top ports. Did you get a set of two or three wands? There should be no bending needed on the wands. Also, be careful not to pull out the wands past the metal part of the head. As you can see, the walnut shells eat away the valve cover. Observe the marks on the wands for how far to pull out.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Darkswarmer

Look at this video

Some shells got into the cylinder. This is the only cylinder that has shells that got leaked in. Do you guys think I am OK or I need to get them out? I don't even know how I would get them out. Thoughts?

Uh. That's no good. Some members had good luck sucking stuff out of the cylinder through the injector hole and a small hose attached to a shop vacuum.

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Uh. That's no good. Some members had good luck sucking stuff out of the cylinder through the injector hole and a small hose attached to a shop vacuum.

Thank you for the reply!

Do you think I could do it through the glow plug hole instead? I don't have injectors or glowplug problems and would very much prefer not having to wait longer for more parts...

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Darkswarmer

Thank you for the reply!

Do you think I could do it through the glow plug hole instead? I don't have injectors or glowplug problems and would very much prefer not having to wait longer for more parts...

I guess you could try that.

[oaklandwill]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Uh. That's no good. Some members had good luck sucking stuff out of the cylinder through the injector hole and a small hose attached to a shop vacuum.

I just cleaned mine. Royal PITA

Didn't get shells into cylinder head as made sure each cylinder was at DTC before proceeding but to clean out the remnants I blew compressed air into the ports while had shop vac going on adapter.

You could try to blow air through the injector hole while vacuuming out from the top or vice versa. Glow plug hole always an option too.

Check to see if remnants of walnut would damage the cylinder - my thoughts under that much pressure and temperature they would burn up.

Also as heads up had trouble starting car due to air in the fuel line. ended up disconnecting the #1 cylinder line and pulling vacuum on the rail while cycling the low pressure fuel pump. After several tries got it to start.

Good luck

[Cstorer79]

Hello, new user here. This is a very informative thread - thanks to all the guys who have posted their CBU experiences. I have a couple questions for you CBU vets:

1) I've ordered most of the parts I need for mine, but I can't seem to find the crankshaft tool (Part # 01 6 480 on the TSB). The closest I could find is this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...yABEgLRG_D_BwE

But that doesn't seem to be for the right engine. Perhaps it's interchangeable? Either way, I would rather advance the engine manually, then rely on the 'jump the starter' method - that just seems imprecise. If anyone knows where to buy that crankshaft adapter let me know, or if you are willing to sell yours to me I would happily buy it.

2) Is it best to remove the valve cover before starting? It seems some guys go either way. I would rather not remove it, but if it's significantly easier with it off then I guess I will.

Thanks for the help in advance,

[canam_banana]

Originally Posted by Cstorer79

Hello, new user here. This is a very informative thread - thanks to all the guys who have posted their CBU experiences. I have a couple questions for you CBU vets:

1) I've ordered most of the parts I need for mine, but I can't seem to find the crankshaft tool (Part # 01 6 480 on the TSB). The closest I could find is this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...yABEgLRG_D_BwE

But that doesn't seem to be for the right engine. Perhaps it's interchangeable? Either way, I would rather advance the engine manually, then rely on the 'jump the starter' method - that just seems imprecise. If anyone knows where to buy that crankshaft adapter let me know, or if you are willing to sell yours to me I would happily buy it.

2) Is it best to remove the valve cover before starting? It seems some guys go either way. I would rather not remove it, but if it's significantly easier with it off then I guess I will.

Thanks for the help in advance,

That looks like right part you need to turn the engine manually to get each port to DTC. But, if the alignment of the holes to the crank shaft bolts are not correct, that would not fit. Maybe ask for measurements to verify? If you can't find one to buy, check on the forum to see if someone local to you is willing to rent you the part. (I rented all the parts needed - wands, blaster, tool for turning engine, and even the WiFi scope/ camera from a nearby diesel BMW member).

Make sure you verify that the port is closed by turning the engine manually. Do not blow walnut media inside the cylinder. IMO, the tangential port (rectangle shaped one on the side) is easier for using the scope to verify while manually cranking the engine.

I don't recommend removing the valve cover unless you have to. You need a special tool for removing the injectors in order to remove the valve cover. (check out the YouTube videos of 335d injector removal)