[knownoknow]

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful!

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

My car doesn't have the urea thing which would make the process probably easier. Do you think it is possible to remove the DPF without the need of preliminary removing the entire exhaust? Can the part with the flexhose be pushed in a bit so it's going to be shorter and can be slided out of the front pipe? (part # 3) I'm afraid it's very stiff

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

My car doesn't have the urea thing which would make the process probably easier. Do you think it is possible to remove the DPF without the need of preliminary removing the entire exhaust? Can the part with the flexhose be pushed in a bit so it's going to be shorter and can be slided out of the front pipe? (part # 3) I'm afraid it's very stiff

That's exactly how it works. You just bend the flexible part a bit and work it out of the main exhaust without removing the main exhaust.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Phewwww!!! Saves me from bugging a second person for help. Makes me so happy, Mike325tds

[Yozh]

I found it helpful to slightly loosen up the exhaust mount at the transmission. Gives a bit more wiggle room.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Changed my clogged DPF for a refurbished one ($600). 12 hours of work.

Removing the DPF was a pain but installing the new one was a nightmare. The worst part was fiddling the 4 bolts for the engine support back into their holes while holding the DPF up. The first two bolts took like 1 hour each. Had to search for the threads for the second bolt with a bore snake.

The V-clamp can be a beast also when turbo and DPF are not proper in building line. Installing a downpipe may be easier cause a single pipe gives room for the hands and is light as a feather.

Changing a DPF: Better don't try to do it alone!

[BB_cuda]

when several of us did the DPF delete, we first removed the bracket (with engine supported of course). Next was removal of the DPF itself. Next was to put DPF back first. And lastly fight the bracket. TDI told us long ago to not try it in the order of ops that you did. So sorry but you did it in the pain in the ars way.

[Persian Whisperjet]

The mind reels.... Put it back????

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

The mind reels.... Put it back????

I mispoke there. I of course didn't. TDI gutted his DPF while waiting for the Ecotune DP one to be shipped. So, he had to do the unthinkable and PUT IT BACK!

The poster having difficulty should have realized if the bracket had to be out of the way to remove DPF, it should still be out of the way when reinstalling the DPF. Bracket goes in after. I hope i don't ever have to put that huge thing back in.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

Removing the DPF was a pain but installing the new one was a nightmare.
Changing a DPF: Better don't try to do it alone!

Oh c'mon, there are dudes doing it alone on their backs and jack stands....

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Oh c'mon, there are dudes doing it alone on their backs and jack stands....

That's just how i did it. And if that wasn't enough not on a flat surface but on raw gravel. Had to empty my pockets and boots every minute

What I found out later: The small pipe to the pressure sensor had a slight bending (due to careless packaging) and for this reason touched a heat shield somewhere above. That prevented proper alignment.

I was in doubt if the bolt at 10 o clock position could be accessed with the DPF and V-clamp in place. So I took the hard way and juggled with two loose components

[chau]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

While working on the fuel filter did you happen to read who's the maker of the pre heater element?

Did my downpipe today and I remembered you asking for this.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Thanks a bunch!

[toy_soldier]

I'm getting ready to remove the dpf on my car and was not clear clear in the sequence to remove the engine mount bracket. The motor mount has to be remove first and then the engine mount bracket right?

[sour335d]

Originally Posted by toy_soldier

I'm getting ready to remove the dpf on my car and was not clear clear in the sequence to remove the engine mount bracket. The motor mount has to be remove first and then the engine mount bracket right?

When I performed this procedure like 2 weeks ago I managed to get both pieces out at the same time. The way the the stud from the mount goes into the bracket makes it difficult to remove one and not the other. I'm sure there's probably a way, but i don't see the point since both pieces need to come out in order to remove the DPF and ream out the wastegate.

I would suggest loosening the nut that goes on the top stud of the engine mount while the car is still on the ground. Then loosen all of the other bolts after the car has been lifted and the engine is securely supported. The removal and re-installation of these parts is by far the biggest headache when performing this job. Everything else is fairly smooth sailing.

[toy_soldier]

Thanks for the tip. For the recessed bolt in the whole, what's the best way to get to it?

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

The motor mount has a small support bracket itself that can be seen after removing the wheel housing cover (bracket is part #9 in the pic)
Don't forget to unscrew it.

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E9...ne_suspension/

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Originally Posted by toy_soldier

Thanks for the tip. For the recessed bolt in the whole, what's the best way to get to it?

I did it from above with a ratchet and several extensions. 18mm is the nut IIRC

[toy_soldier]

Thanks for all the tips guys. My only fear is when I get to the bolt on the engine bracket and can't remove them

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Removing is easy. The PITA begins with reassembling.
If you want to stay on the safe side keep an M10 thread cutter handy, just in case you insert the bolts not aligned with the threads in the engine block and they start to seize on their way in. Never use force here or the jamming just gets worse.

You have a long E12 torx socket plus an universal joint (1/2 drive)?

[BB_cuda]

Seems like I recall stacking up about 18" of extensions including adapting from 3/8 drive to 1/2" drive. I used (2) 3/8 drive longs and (1) 1/2 drive long extensions. A tube of antiseeze is your friend (though some disagree with me). Getting the (4) screws started on that engine bracket definitely required the fur tool. That is to "put some fur around it".

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

... That is to "put some fur around it".

Not sure what that means, but sounds interesting.

I recall using some duct tape for that recessed bolt. Wrapping the tape so it was firmly pressed against the socket and lightly pressed on the bolt. This helped keep the bolt engaged to the socket and from falling off when trying to get back in there and finding the hole. And then once engaged you could pull the socket out and the tape will come out with the socket and leave behind the bolt.