[Maestro]

Folks, not sure if others seen this video.

First I will said being an engineer I am not sure how valid this test is, they did the testing at 400F. I am not sure if oil in an engine ever gets to these kind of temperatures. This results could be completely different at a lower normal operating temperature and may not even be a measurable or visual difference in the oil. I think the person was attempting to demonstrate the long term effect on the oil at lower temperatures by accelerating the outcome by increase the test temperature. That is not always a valid test condition. I will not tell you the outcome just watch the video. But when people argue about what is the best oil it not always completely obvious and this could make you think twice.

I will say at first you would think oh look how bad that one is, then at the end the results as different.

[Crusader]

How many cars have had a lubrication failure within the warranty period in the last 20-30 years? Lets consider every Bimmer manufactured during that period. My guess is not much greater than zero. So unless you drain the oil and put water or Mazola in there rather than any remotely decent auto oil, you're safe for the warranty period.

Now the guy that buys the car after your lease? He might appreciate the better lubricants. And I doubt he'd object to the boutique oils that don't meet spec. Redline is good enough for Mike Miller, it's good enough for me.

[fl335i]

^ That is LL-04. Believe it's diesel oil. We have LL-01. I've used German made Castrol 0-30 and the M1 0-40. From looking at the spec sheets, the German Castrol (GC) is slightly thinner. But I've been thinking there is no point to the LL-01 spec unless you actually plan to go 16,000 miles between oil changes; following the oil life meter. If you're doing 5k, 7.5k or 10k intervals why not just use a 5w-30 M1 that meets corvette spec, Acura HTO turbo spec etc... and it's much thinner and still provides the same film thickness.

[Mayuri Krab]

My local German service place uses FUCHS TITAN SUPERSYN LONGLIFE 5W-40 & I get it changed every 10,000km or 12 month.

[Zero_09]

Originally Posted by bas2000

I buy Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30 in the 5 quart jugs at Advanced Auto.


http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx
BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market:

Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

The link doesn't show Valvoline SynPower anymore.

Just wondering because here in Walmart Canada , Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 5W30 is available for $18.88 for 4.73L

[mi_bimmer]

I spied some Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-40 at an O'Reilly's today. Made in Belgium. BMW LL-01 and ACEA A3/B4 rated on the bottle.
Seems to have all the right ratings. Wonder if it is a good substitute for German Castrol 0W-30 (which is so hard to find in stores)

[NOVA330XI]

AMSOIL European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil is specially formulated for the lubrication needs of BMW's. Its full sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur formulation is ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 BMW LL-01 rated. Easy to buy, ships right to your door. I use it and could not be happier.

Order Online

[Crusader]

Originally Posted by SDV325

Completely disagree. Who do you think knows more about their engines, BMW or a random person giving their opinion on information most likely read on the internet. Unless specific information regarding the differences between oils at operating conditions can be mentioned, you, me or 99.9% of us should not be ones to challenge their requirements. I am a mech engr by profession, i know a little bit about fluids but no where near enough to challenge which specific grade should be followed. For example some oils will not react kindly or coat certain metallurgical components depending on their composition. The viscosity of oil is a smaller factor when compared to the design of the oil, the additives used, etc.

So many different oil manufacturers make LL-01 oils anyways, if a company cannot be bothered to do a simple test to prove that the oil is satisfactory then is it really worth it? Royal Purple and Redline comes to mind, sure they are proven race oils, but a daily driving vehicle is completely different. I was thinking about using Redline for my Subaru but after reading that they weren't even API certified it turned me off instantly. These must be two of the last oil companies out there that do not provide a specific euro blend that is suitable for LL-01, MB, VW, etc. Motul, M1, Amsoil, Castrol and others all provide euro oils LL-01 approved, surely someone can choose between one of those premium oils.

And for jzchen, oils are always tested at the operating conditions ie when the engine is at normal operating temperature. The viscosity ratings as well are not for room temperature but when the oil is at a specific range of operating temperatures.

You disagree? So you have experience with an engine that suffered lubrication failure? Yes, BMW knows their engines, but they hardly test every oil on the market for compatibility. And I stand by my statement about engine failures during the warranty period ... they are as common as chickens with lips. (OTOH, a flaw in the S54 engine in the E46 M3, coupled with a overaggressive redline did result in a number of bearing failures ... all while running the approved 10w60 BMW oil BTW. And the E36 was known to lose oil pressure because of a nut that would become loose in the oil pump. Neither of these were a function of the quality of oil in the sump.)

If you read the specs, quality synthetics all vary slightly in their additive composition, viscosity, and shear strength. Slightly. Even BMW sells a different oil in Europe than in the US, and they're not quite the same ... even though the engines are. Hmmm, who's not running the "right" oil? And non spec, non LL01 or API, oils do remarkably well in BMW engines; despite their lack of pedigree (ref: Mike Miller, tech guy for BMWCCA, who's got the oil analysis results to prove it.)

So, I suggest you find empirical proof that non-LL01 oil will damage a BMW engine. Find examples of lubrication failures during the warranty period caused by the lubricant vice some mechanical flaw or failure (I can't). Anecdotal (AKA inconvenient evidence) I realize, but my E39's M54 was purring as new at 95K lubricated by non-spec Mobil 1 5w30 ... no loss in MPG or performance. I don't think that's unusual or that I'm just lucky.

That doesn't mean that running only approved products might be in your best interest if you're looking for 250K+ on your engine (though I doubt it). If that's your plan, go for it.

[WhiteFury]

What 5w30 is LL-01? I am using 0w40 Mobil 1 right now but want to go back to 5w30.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

What 5w30 is LL-01? I am using 0w40 Mobil 1 right now but want to go back to 5w30.

Only the one from the dealer that I know.

http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx

[biscut]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

What 5w30 is LL-01? I am using 0w40 Mobil 1 right now but want to go back to 5w30.

Mind if I ask why you want to go back to 5-30? M1 0-40 is their flagship oil and covers a very wide operating temp. It's light for a 40WT...

If I were to go to a 30WT it would be 0-30WT but that's just me.

[jmardinly]

Amsoil 5-40meets LL-01
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=AFLQT-EA

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by jmardinly

Amsoil 5-40meets LL-01
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=AFLQT-EA

You're reading their literature the wrong way. Amsoil states that it "meets" the LL-01 or LL-04 specification, but Amsoil has not paid for the independent tests for BMW to APPROVE it.

That doesn't mean that it won't perform perfectly well or harm the engine, but technically, BMW could deny warranty coverage if you use it during the warranty period.

[jmardinly]

You have forgotten about the Magnussen-Moss warranty act. BMW cannot deny warranty coverage for oil that meets or exceeds the BMW spec. Anyway, Amsoil is far superior to the 5-30 Castrol swill that they recommend. I would not put that stuff in my Saturn.

[123Britt]

Been running M1 0W-40 for a long time. I believe that ESP is a superior oil and may help in reducing intake build-up due to ESP properties. I change oil at 5K intervals - so it appears to be a superior product for the N54 engine.
.
.
Does anyone have experience???
.
.
Note: At 90K I replaced the valve cover gasket and the engine looked very clean although at 80K I performed the walnut blasting and she was heavily caked with gunk.

[WhiteFury]

I tried the BMW 5w30, however I am going back to mobil1 0w40 in about 1.5k. I think it lubricates better in the cold startup and quiets the engine alot due to it being a 40 weight oil.

[Jake335i]

you should put a poll up

[pk_]

Not to bring an old thread back, but would love to see everyones CURRENT input on what oil/filters they use for their cars.

Quality is key, my benz was too much of a bitch to change oil so it always went to a shop. My oil is due on my e92 shortly. Feedback would be appreciated!

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by pk_

Not to bring an old thread back, but would love to see everyones CURRENT input on what oil/filters they use for their cars.

Quality is key, my benz was too much of a bitch to change oil so it always went to a shop. My oil is due on my e92 shortly. Feedback would be appreciated!

Castrol Edge OE 5w30 (LL04) and OEM Filters.

[scottwww]

Originally Posted by pk_

Not to bring an old thread back, but would love to see everyones CURRENT input on what oil/filters they use for their cars.

Quality is key, my benz was too much of a bitch to change oil so it always went to a shop. My oil is due on my e92 shortly. Feedback would be appreciated!

Still using Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic Motor Oil. Why

All seems to be working well.

Of all the cars I have owned in the last 30+ years, the oil change on the BMW E92 335i is the easiest of all. The filter is very accessible, and not messy to change. I'm using the Mann 11 42 7 541 827 filter from bavauto.com. Also, I found their part number 05348 oil filter housing cap tool to be more useful than an oil filter strap wrench.

[WhiteFury]

Which oil of these two should I use during my next oil change? I have use the mobile1 0W 40 before and it worked out pretty good.

I believe I read somewhere that mobile1 0W 40 pretty much is just a really thick 30 weight oil is this true?

[WhiteFury]

Which of the 2 is better?