[e92days]

Originally Posted by FL335

Have you pulled out and cleaned your Vanos Solenoids? I ended up replacing mine and all codes went away. Car runs great!

I have not but I will after I clean my DV's, I've recently reaffirmed that they're supposed to be taken apart, I could just never figure out how. With that helpful advice, I might be on my way to justice!

[e92days]

Originally Posted by chinko

I'll probably go with the one from amazon as was mentionned by optigrab and Yournamehere90, comes to a total of 26$ shipped.
The verocious ones aren't really expensive, but doesn't make sense to pay 26$ shipping for a 10$ product. I just hope the amazon one with similar specs are as good. I'm replacing the vacuum lines especially the ones near the oil filter housing as I'm having the half engine malfunction at 5k rpm and they look rotted.

I'll have to agree with you on that. Let us know how it turns out!

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by chinko

I'll probably go with the one from amazon as was mentionned by optigrab and Yournamehere90, comes to a total of 26$ shipped.
The verocious ones aren't really expensive, but doesn't make sense to pay 26$ shipping for a 10$ product. I just hope the amazon one with similar specs are as good. I'm replacing the vacuum lines especially the ones near the oil filter housing as I'm having the half engine malfunction at 5k rpm and they look rotted.

Contact Verocious and tell them you think the shipping is a little steep considering the contents of the package. (Ask nicely).

I know I'd appreciate the opportunity to reevaluate the shipping cost, when it's a reasonable request.

Although it is annoying when people second guess shipping costs, this seems reasonable.

It's all about the approach and coming correct.

Having a website, it's frustrating to land appropriate shipping costs when quantities are adjusted.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Contact Verocious and tell them you think the shipping is a little steep considering the contents of the package. (Ask nicely).

I know I'd appreciate the opportunity to reevaluate the shipping cost, when it's a reasonable request.

Although it is annoying when people second guess shipping costs, this seems reasonable.

It's all about the approach and coming correct.

Having a website, it's frustrating to land appropriate shipping costs when quantities are adjusted.

Their CS was off the charts good.

A question on these..can someone answer it? Are these silicone lines OK with withstand the heat from the front and rear waste gates? They can stand up to 400º F but not sure if the area around the turbos reach this. I have had mine installed for about 3 weeks and so far, so good.

OP, search for Vanos Solenoid swap....very easy to do. Just make sure the engine is cool.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by FL335

Their CS was off the charts good.

A question on these..can someone answer it? Are these silicone lines OK with withstand the heat from the front and rear waste gates? They can stand up to 400º F but not sure if the area around the turbos reach this. I have had mine installed for about 3 weeks and so far, so good.

OP, search for Vanos Solenoid swap....very easy to do. Just make sure the engine is cool.

It was my understanding that Silicon is better than rubber in high heat/long life applications.

Silicon doesnt dry out like rubber does as far as I know

[chinko]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Contact Verocious and tell them you think the shipping is a little steep considering the contents of the package. (Ask nicely).

I know I'd appreciate the opportunity to reevaluate the shipping cost, when it's a reasonable request.

Although it is annoying when people second guess shipping costs, this seems reasonable.

It's all about the approach and coming correct.

Having a website, it's frustrating to land appropriate shipping costs when quantities are adjusted.

Good to know, I sent them an email earlier today. Hopefully they'll confirm before tomorrow, I need to do them asap. Otherwise amazon it is.

[TrollToll]

I've had no issues with the Amazon hose.

[mg4734]

Got all of mine replaced except for the wastage lines. Couldn't see the ends that go to the turbo's, so I wasn't comfortable pulling them off. Anyone have pictures of exactly where you can see the lines connect to the wastegates?

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by mg4734

Got all of mine replaced except for the wastage lines. Couldn't see the ends that go to the turbo's, so I wasn't comfortable pulling them off. Anyone have pictures of exactly where you can see the lines connect to the wastegates?

If you search google for "n54 30ff" there is a DIY guide on pressure testing. In that house you will see a couple pictures of an n54 and the house routing.

[mg4734]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

If you search google for "n54 30ff" there is a DIY guide on pressure testing. In that house you will see a couple pictures of an n54 and the house routing.

Thanks. I've seen all of the hose diagrams (color coded, etc) but just don't want to yank off the line without being able to see where to reconnect it. Reached in and was able to get the rear turbo line, but the front I just can't see or feel where to reconnect if I pull it off.

[TrollToll]

There should be a couple actual pictures of an n54 removed from the car. The front one is tough but possible. I have a 1 and 5 series so can't comment on your 3. On my 5, I was able to reach the front (with lots of patience) and had to describe the rear one to my girlfriend since my hands are too big.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by mg4734

Thanks. I've seen all of the hose diagrams (color coded, etc) but just don't want to yank off the line without being able to see where to reconnect it. Reached in and was able to get the rear turbo line, but the front I just can't see or feel where to reconnect if I pull it off.

I had a difficult time "finding" the nipple/connector once I pulled off the front line. You need to make sure the valve cover is off (the plastic one) so you can get both hands in there from the front.

It's a PIA but doable. I am not mechanically inclined but I did it...like most things on this car, you can figure it out. GL.

[mg4734]

Thanks for all of the input everyone. I'll give the front one a shot once I get a long enough socket extension to move the vacuum canister bracket. Looks like the front actuator nipple is in between the block and the front inlet, this is the best/most helpful image I could find... http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1199336431

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by mg4734

Thanks. I've seen all of the hose diagrams (color coded, etc) but just don't want to yank off the line without being able to see where to reconnect it. Reached in and was able to get the rear turbo line, but the front I just can't see or feel where to reconnect if I pull it off.

You will not be able to "see" where to connect it. It is all done by feel only. Spend some time feeling around, following the lines to the nipples to get used to the angles and where things go. It's totally doable.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by chinko

Good to know, I sent them an email earlier today. Hopefully they'll confirm before tomorrow, I need to do them asap. Otherwise amazon it is.

Actually, I just realized you are in Canada?

So the shipping is actually reasonable. Only way it could be cheaper is if they send first class mail, that may delay the shipment arrival another week.

Via Priority Mail:

Medium Flat rate to Canada is $45

Small Flat rate is $21

However, barely anything fits in a small flat rate box.

[Turbo_power4ever]

Originally Posted by Jklad

You will not be able to "see" where to connect it. It is all done by feel only. Spend some time feeling around, following the lines to the nipples to get used to the angles and where things go. It's totally doable.

Feel the nipple, Got it.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Turbo_power4ever

Feel the nipple, Got it.

Spit on it and twist it gently with a firm pushing motion. Easiest way to get it on.



Im totally serious btw, spit is great lube for silicon lines.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

Spit on it and twist it gently with a firm pushing motion. Easiest way to get it on.



Im totally serious btw, spit is great lube for silicon lines.

Seriously, this is what needs to be done. I had a hard time finding the connector after removing the old line...took about a half an hour to get it on...

[expressfish]

received and installed dark blue silicone 3.5 from boostcontroller.com...that stuff is like a magnet for dirt ! I couldnt hardly keep it clean during the install. Front turbo was a bitch, you can easily slip your hand down and feel the nipple but can only grasp it with your middle and fore finger..pain in the ass. What really helped was wiping a little grease on the hose, slipped right on.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by expressfish

received and installed dark blue silicone 3.5 from boostcontroller.com...that stuff is like a magnet for dirt ! I couldnt hardly keep it clean during the install. Front turbo was a bitch, you can easily slip your hand down and feel the nipple but can only grasp it with your middle and fore finger..pain in the ass. What really helped was wiping a little grease on the hose, slipped right on.

KY Jelly also works

Neil

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

KY Jelly also works

Neil

Again spit is the master. It cleans the hoses really well, too.

[Turbo_power4ever]

Just did mine this morning. Im glad i did too, those braided lines were damaged pretty bad at some points