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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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CSF Upgraded Radiator for AT cars?
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07-13-2015, 12:25 PM | #133 |
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+1 Ravi is the shit, I installed my radiator thus weekend. Perfect fit. One note on the auto , when removing the two small lines going to the tranny cooler , disconnect them by removing the torx bolts, not from the quick release tabs, much easier and you may break something.
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08-19-2015, 02:19 AM | #135 | |
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10-03-2015, 10:18 PM | #137 |
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Great review, glad I found this thread!!
Copy of questions: Would it make sense to also upgrade the fan? The Mishimoto is definitely not AT compatitable? |
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10-03-2015, 10:52 PM | #138 | |
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10-04-2015, 12:41 AM | #139 |
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10-04-2015, 06:55 AM | #140 | |
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better heat capacity.. i know my last idiot mechanic put 100% coolant i was over heating... get a good FMIC.... thats what i did when my temps were climbing too much during PULLS.... so i dunno about idle... but if u have a JB4 you can just run the max coolant flow option. |
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12-27-2015, 11:04 PM | #141 | |
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12-28-2015, 01:53 AM | #142 | |
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01-07-2016, 08:50 PM | #143 | |
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i think if IAT >125 you start engine will start pulling timing.. i notice when i had stock FMIC and inlets my temps were getting higher .... so i got a new FMIC... |
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01-07-2016, 09:05 PM | #144 |
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Installing shortly
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01-10-2016, 09:56 PM | #146 |
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Just FYI guys, this radiator works so well my car has problem reaching operating temp crushing on the highway while it is 0F out there. My oil temp barely hits 170F (Dinan single core oil cooler, stock oil thermostat) today for the two hour drive I took today and the heater barely works as well because the engine is so cold.
Gonna tape up the kidney grill and see if this gets better
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01-11-2016, 09:27 AM | #147 |
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I also get great temps on extended stretches on the freeway with my CSF radiator. However, most of the time I'm driving in inner-city stop and go traffic in 90F+ ambient, so my temps still get higher than I'd like.
I'm hoping that Ken, Jake and others will crack the XDF tables for setting target temps. |
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02-12-2016, 04:30 AM | #148 | |
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Emailed Rave. I need a radiator. My expansion tank last week. Pinhole leak in the radiator seam of the top plastic on the drivers side. Go aluminum and you'll never go back. I had an aluminum radiator in my e36 M3. One of the best mosts I could have done.
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02-12-2016, 06:53 AM | #149 | |
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02-12-2016, 10:23 AM | #150 | ||
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Since these cars have electric water pump and thermostat instead of traditional mechanical ones, my bet is the software. The duty cycle for the water pump is too aggressive for extreme cold weather for cars with more efficient radiator. Not much of solution for now unless someone finds the water pump and thermostat tables in the DME. Taping up the grilles work very well though. Lol.
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02-12-2016, 01:14 PM | #151 | |
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Pretty impressive if the core is that efficient. Usually the only people you see you closing up their front grills is big rigs haha |
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02-12-2016, 01:30 PM | #152 | |
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IMO, a datalog of the coolant temp under normal driving is pretty pointless because you will have no way of knowing which cooling mode/target temp. the DME is requesting at the moment. But a warmup log might help, I will see what I can do, since we are suppose to see single digit weather again this weekend.
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02-12-2016, 01:35 PM | #153 | |
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It should be no surprise it's more efficient, otherwise what was the point of upgrading I was just curious if you were getting to 212-218 on the highway. You need at least 180F to get some decent heat out of the heating system. OIL always warms up slower then water. It's thicker and the transfer of heat is much slower. My C67 has a 160 T Stat but the stock radiator isn't efficient enough to sustain that even in sub zero temps. Lowest I've gone on the highway is 172F. I notice the heat is not as strong on the highway till I get over 170F. The heat does get better if I get the coolant up to 180 or more. I rarely drive it in the winter though because I don't drive it in the salt. |
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02-12-2016, 01:56 PM | #154 | |
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That said, I don't think I ever hit +210F just cruising around on the highway when the temp is below freezing, ever since I installed the radiator last year (I also have the PPK aux radiator, and aftermarket oil cooler). My theory is that the minimal duty cycle for the waterpump is just a touch too much for the radiator. Even if you are just bleeding 5-10% thermal energy than you are suppose to with these radiator at cold temp, things are gonna add up during a long drive on the highway if the DME doesn't account for it. Not sure what's the best way to prove this though with our limited access to the DME even after all these years.
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