[Bimmer Al]

Originally Posted by ab325i

Model: 325i
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): yes
I-Drive (yes/no): no
Active Steering (yes/no): no
Comfort Access (yes/no): no

Problem description:

1) Annoying rattling sounds from the driver side seat belt assembly area. I have alredy taken the car to the dealership to be fixed but the sound keeps coming back.
2) Rattling/whistling and wind sounds from the center of the dash at 65mph or higher.
3) Serious heat buildup under the gear selector area. After driving for more than 45 minutes, the heat buildup is bad enough where you cannot touch it. If there is any plastic or metal in the ashtray, the plastic will melt or the metal will get too hot to touch

Taking the car to the dealer again for the fixes. If satisfactory repairs are not made, I have a good mind to refund the car or ask for a new one.

What did the dealer say about the "heat build up?"

[Bimmer Al]

Originally Posted by khor01

(anti-flame suit on)

Model: E92 328i
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): no
I-Drive (yes/no):no
Active Steering (yes/no):no
Comfort Access (yes/no):no
Options: ZSP

Problem description:
Lots of wind noise in driver side window seal at 160MPH. Passender side is air-tight and quiet.

lol

[BlackSheep343]

anyone have problems with the premium seat control's on the driver side? the horizontal one, to lift/drop the front/back. not the whole seat at once, just either or...??? they just dont work... i can mash the button, and finally the front will raise and wont stop, the only way to get it back down is to use my presets... craptastic!!!

[zerox_guru]

tranny gasket leak at 38k on AT

[Ebby1600]

While turning the steering wheel a click can be heard. The dealer noticed the noise too but stated it may not be covered under warranty and did not offer a possible solution. The noise sounds like it is being made by a plastic material.

[Phil G]

I'll contribute too:

Model: 2007 335i E92
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):N
I-Drive (yes/no):Y
Active Steering (yes/no):N
Comfort Access (yes/no):Y
X-Drive (YES/NO) N

42,000 miles, 2/07 build

Problems:

1: DSC malfunction - Sensor in steering column had to be replaced.

2: Left brake lamp malfunction - This has been handled twice and still comes and goes, very annoying.

3: Wastegate rattle issue - Car spent a week at the dealership and was fixed completely under warranty.

This car is nothing like my '97 4Runner I owned before in terms of reliability, but this still could have been worse. No HPFP issues yet, and thankfully that now is warranted up to 120k miles!

[mikey3028]

Originally Posted by dguzman70

2006 325i
The auto doorlocks are not working on the front passenger door and the check engine soon light is on. I took it into the shop and it read a super fine leak code which might be a gas cap I hope. I cant figure out what is wrong with the door locks though

The door locks are crap. Ive had the fault before and now ive got it again. How crap is it that ive got to open the window and get out like the dukes of bloddy hazzard. And with people watching and pressumably thinking, flash sod had broken his car. lol.

Oh and a faulty cam shaft sensor.

BTW the cars only done 26K miles.

[NiceAndSlow]

Model: 2007 335i
Country: Canada
Automatic transmission (yes/no): yes
I-Drive (yes/no): no
Active Steering (yes/no): no
Comfort Access (yes/no): no

Problem description: Lost of Power when acceleration.. Engline Lights on.. Turns out to be a high pressure fuel pump. Got this replaced, and 2 months again, same thing. High Pressure fuel pump went for the second time. Speaker Grill falling on driver side falling off. Long crank to start up, engine rpm inconsistent on startup and while idling. Fluctuates up and down like it has a mind of it's own. Original diagnosed as a low pressure fuel sensor, and final fuel injectors. Had the car for 5 days now and looks like the problem is back again. Still waiting for diagnostics. And finally, mirrors do not remember settings. It goes all over the place when the car is unlock and never stays in the same position.

[hotnikks]

^ Wow ^ Electrical gremlins...

[prototyp]

Model: 2006 330i E90
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):N
I-Drive (yes/no):N
Active Steering (yes/no):Y
Comfort Access (yes/no):N
X-Drive (YES/NO) N

52,800 miles, 4/05 build


Previously, and still present:
Rear brakes squeaking at low speeds after duration of heavy stop/start traffic.

Rattling sunroof. Tedious... (failed to rattle the two times I had the car in to get looked at... it's actually flopping around quite a bit now)

Rattling/ticking center console radio/HVAC unit. Dealer added felt tape... needs more work but I still cannot get the damn thing out of the dashboard. Will be fashioning prying tools out of crowbars soon...


And some new ones to add since this time last year:

Transmission replaced @52k on account of intermittent 2nd gear grind.

Undiagnosed oil leak (need to pull belly pans to investigate).

Suspect right front wheel bearing (twitchy handling at speed, wheel has slight play and clunk when pulled from the top. ew.)

[AlbAtRoS]

:l ol::happyani m:: thumsup:

Originally Posted by 2008 323i

2007 e90 328i
canada
man.
bought the car new first week tire light came on they checked it and it didn't happen again
4 times on 3m
5000km the engine had valve ticking did bleed down one week later happened again
replaced top end of engine
9700km 3 rd gear was gone you shift it it grinds is you coast for a bit then its fine
got them to give me a differnt car
2008 335i
manu. sports package
gas cap door will not shut, turbo (power) come and goes 3 times thus far
front drivers wheel once in a while like the control arm is lose
3 m pealing
2 night ago started the car a loud hum or stackit sound over the rear speaker
shut the car off it stayed on for 20min after the car was off
BMW does not make a good car
very let down. Im to the point to make them take it back or I will put sticker on my car with detail list of problems I have had so when its at the dealer other people will know how shitty service @ calgary bmw is and how bad these car are

[AlbAtRoS]

u dont know others car problems

[wsybert]

Model: 2007 335i E90
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):N
I-Drive (yes/no):N
Active Steering (yes/no):N
Comfort Access (yes/no):N
X-Drive (YES/NO) N

11/06 Build

Wastegate rattle and subsequent turbo replacement at 49,9xx (both turbos)
Wastegate actuator bushing was worn.
Thread here. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313612

The steering wheel trim was replaced at the same time. Peeling.
Both the trim and turbos replaced under warranty.

I bought the car with 48k on it, so no other history.

No tune that I know of, completely stock when I got it.

Add'l info: Pkg's, Cold weather, sport, premium.

[bad monkey]

Model: 2008 335i E90 Sport Package (35,000 miles)
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):Y
I-Drive (yes/no):Y
Active Steering (yes/no):
Comfort Access (yes/no):
X-Drive (YES/NO) N

Problem: During cold start up in the morning, the motor detonates and the Service Engine Soon light comes on. It runs like a desiel and sounds horrible. I cut it off, and sometimes it takes a few cycles then runs normal.

When I bought the car at BMW as a CPO two months ago I noticed it had a fuel pump replaced. Not a big deal, but i remembered that since this is going on. After I bought it I got the problem above. They replaced the Low Pressure Fuel sensor last and did an update on the software. Started the car again this morning and its doing it again. Get the engine light and service engine soon, and continues to beat itself up. At tempurature it appears to run fine, with the SES light on in the background. But before it runs fine it bangs on itself pretty hard. Something else is bound to fail if this keeps up.

I use 93 octane gas from top tier stations. Nothing else. Calling on Monday and taking it back to the dealer again for the same issue.

[hotnikks]

My turn

Model: 2006 330i E90
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):N
I-Drive (yes/no):N
Active Steering (yes/no):N
Comfort Access (yes/no):N
X-Drive (YES/NO) N

42,600 miles, 6/05 build

bought used with 36k

steering wheel and doors peeled (replaced by dealer in warranty)

seatbelt light problem x2 (reprogram and replaced battery wire in warranty)

condensation in both headlights after major rainstorm in september(cleared by itself)
^^
caused adapative headlight failure(headlight stuck to the right out of warranty and not fixed)

Been a good car the past 9 months up until recently..

Update:
02/02/2010
47k miles

replaced both headlight covers (Diy)
AHL control module replaced(Diy) the module was corroded on the inside smh. Still needs programming but fault gone.
She's purring like a champ minus the electronic issues

[adrswe]

Bought this car used at dealer auction with 50 K miles and purchased extended warranty

Model: 330xi
Country:USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no):Yes
I-Drive (yes/no):No
Active Steering (yes/no):No
Comfort Access (yes/no):Yes

Problem description: Driver's door handle light not working - bad connector inside door

Problem description: Driver's side headlight lens foggy and intermittent adaptive headlight fault - replaced headlight assembly

Problem description: Leaking windshield washer fluid tank - Replaced tanks and pumps

Problem description: Driver side Sport Seat Air Bag Fault

[mr-tdi]

Model: 2006 330d
Country: Denmark
Automatic transmission (yes/no): yes
I-Drive (yes/no): yes
Active Steering (yes/no): no
Comfort Access (yes/no): yes

I have a problem with the locks in right front door. When pressing the unlock on the remote the door doesn't open - but all other doors are opening. After opening the door from the inside and leaving the car - the lock when pressing lock on the remote (all doors).

My question is if this problem is a programming thing on the car of if the dealer needs to split the door to fix?

/Martin

[Bmuenster02]

Model:2009 335xdrive coupe
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): yes
I-Drive (yes/no): yes
Active Steering (yes/no): yes
Comfort Access (yes/no):no

HELP ME PLEASE! Purchased brand new from dealership 19 miles on the dash, 12000 miles now on dash. i installed a JB3 and AFE intake and did the gold tee mod. the car will drive fine at slow speeds as soon as pressure is applied to the gas all acceleration is lost in the car (engine service soon light is on) and feels like the car is "bogging" out. After that happens i slow the car down and it drives like a diesel with 200k miles and feels like it has 15hp and will barely pull away. oil was changed at 10k. would like to get it to the dealership in the morning for diagnostics, will my upgrades affect bmw warranty on the repair or is this a completely diff issue?

[M3fan]

^ they will Void your warranty since you have JB3 installed. I would take it off and then take it to the dealer unless you have connections at the dealer.

[Beau]

Originally Posted by Bmuenster02

Model:2009 335xdrive coupe
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): yes
I-Drive (yes/no): yes
Active Steering (yes/no): yes
Comfort Access (yes/no):no

HELP ME PLEASE! Purchased brand new from dealership 19 miles on the dash, 12000 miles now on dash. i installed a JB3 and AFE intake and did the gold tee mod. the car will drive fine at slow speeds as soon as pressure is applied to the gas all acceleration is lost in the car (engine service soon light is on) and feels like the car is "bogging" out. After that happens i slow the car down and it drives like a diesel with 200k miles and feels like it has 15hp and will barely pull away. oil was changed at 10k. would like to get it to the dealership in the morning for diagnostics, will my upgrades affect bmw warranty on the repair or is this a completely diff issue?

Contact BMS - your car is going into limp mode. You might have installed the jb3 incorrectly.

[DT Fan]

Model: 330xi
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): no
I-Drive (yes/no): yes
Active Steering (yes/no): yes
Comfort Access (yes/no): no

Driving home, freezing cold (9F I think). Engine cuts out while at speed, approx 45mph. Pull car off to side, crank but no start. Haven't heard from dealer in last 48 hours, they will not return calls (customer service says SAs are all busy). From another BMW tech, friend of family in another state, he says possiblity that timing belt is broken, or much less likely, bent valves. 40k miles. Had the ticking problem, but didn't know there was an issue, let it go. Anyone heard of this before??

[hotnikks]

^^
He told you that without even seeing or hearing the car??

Keep us all updated please..I have never heard of a timing chain breaking on these cars especially with 40k. It should outlast the car actually...