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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Get some DIC (Procede v5 beta)
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02-11-2011, 05:48 PM | #133 |
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02-11-2011, 05:59 PM | #134 |
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Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: www.TopGearSolutions.com
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02-11-2011, 06:42 PM | #135 |
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I don't have any other safety components and triggering system other than the procede. I went with the nitrous solely because shiv introduced it 8 months ago and said Procede would control all of this but safely and plus you don't need all those modules! Well I went ahead and ordered and installed it 8 months ago and still waiting for it to be functional with Documentation on it. Don't plan on running a big shot. Only want a small bump and I will be only using a .15-20jet. My nitrous bottle has been filled for a while now! All I can do is purge it!!! Lol. Does nitrous not used go bad???
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02-11-2011, 06:50 PM | #136 | |
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Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi
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02-11-2011, 06:52 PM | #137 |
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I'm looking for a sorted DIC... Put on some miles beta testers!
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SLC Goonski
14 F31 MSport Wagon 08 335i e90...sold |
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02-11-2011, 06:56 PM | #138 |
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02-11-2011, 06:57 PM | #139 | |
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02-11-2011, 07:00 PM | #140 | |
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Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi
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Needless to say we had a few good laughs for about 5 minutes. Stuff really works ![]() |
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02-11-2011, 07:17 PM | #142 |
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lol...NO thanks! I rather be laughing at the fact of how fast the car is with nitrous! Either way its just sucks to be stringed along for this long and being promised that it will come out in a week or two and now its 9 months going into this...Not cool.I have been with Procede since it came out 4 years ago and with all the updates I have spent over $2200~, I love the tune but the empty promises is getting played....But on the side note other than that, I am enjoying the new DIC maps and the way the car is performing with these new DIC..
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02-11-2011, 07:44 PM | #143 | |
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I've been really interested in seeing how your car works with nitrous..I'd assume it's going to be nuts. How often are you really going to be using it? Will you only use it on the track, or maybe a couple highway pulls daily? Do you have your kit all set up and ready to go? It'd be awesome if you could put together a review/experience thread once you get it all going! Cheers |
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02-11-2011, 07:49 PM | #144 | |
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02-11-2011, 07:53 PM | #145 | |
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02-11-2011, 07:53 PM | #146 | |
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SB, Terra, 6MT. Only a few mods here and there.....nothing extreme!
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02-11-2011, 08:01 PM | #147 | |
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SB, Terra, 6MT. Only a few mods here and there.....nothing extreme!
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02-11-2011, 08:01 PM | #148 | |
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02-11-2011, 09:03 PM | #149 | |
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02-11-2011, 11:59 PM | #152 |
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You guys need to PM CBR335.... I've been in his car with n2o
![]() He should be getting paid for his work. I won't say any more as he may not want me to. All I can say is that it works without problem, currently, and is faster than you can imagine. I'm sure if you run a proceed and want to push crazy dangerous ground - he could help you - but he's a busy guy and is low key about everything. Don't do it unless you REALLY know WTF you are doing |
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02-12-2011, 12:00 AM | #153 | |
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These are Shivs words! Typical rules of thumb when running nitrous: -DO NOT to rely on the knock sensor. Because by the time the DME detects and retards timing, engine damage can already be induced. This means your ignition timing map should be proactive when it comes to avoiding knock. Not reactive. -DO Run high octane fuel for larger nitrous induced power gains. If you are running a small shot that only picks up 15-30whp, octane isn't as critical as the reduction in charge temp goes a long way in reducing knock tendancy. Similar to installing an upgraded intercooler. For larger power gains, running race gas is cheap insurance. -DO Keep AFR rich. Especially torwards the end of the run as this is where in-cylinder temps are the hottest. This is because heat is accumulated quicker than it is shed. -DO NOT engine nitrous for more than 10 seconds at a time. This means nitrous is NOT a suitable power adder for those who are running the Texas mile or doing a top speed run on the Autobahn. -DO NOT engine nitrous when the engine is cold. Engine needs to be fully up to temp with all tolerances within their optimal ranges. Or else excessive wear can occur. -DO NOT spray nitrous when the throttle is closed or else it will back up and create a very o2 rich condition when the throttle opens up again. This can cause a lean run condition which is a no-no. -DO NOT spray nitrous until AFR is stabilized. This is especially important when running a dry shot (ie, spraying nitrous alone and not a nitrous/fuel mixture). Spraying nitrous on an already lean-running engine will make it run even leaner. Even if it's just for a very short period of time (until the DME adjusts fuel trims). This may only take a fraction of a second. But for an engine that is spinning at 4000rpm (nearly 70 rotations per second), that is a painful eternity. -DO NOT engine nitrous at a low engine speed as this can cause a situation where too much nitrous is sprayed onto an engine that isn't consuming air quickly enough. This can cause a nitrous backfire will, as we learned in Fast and the Furious, can blow your manifold off. As well as your diamond plated floorboard. From what I've heard at least. -DO retard timing during the onset of nitrous. This will soften the initial torque impact as well greatly reduce the tendancy for the engine to knock during that engagement moment. -DO flutter the solenoid during nitrous engagement. This will also soften the impact of the nitrous and give a little bit more time for the fuel system (which isn't pressurized to 1000psi like the nitrous bottle) to catch up. -DO NOT engage nitrous while your 6AT is shifting. This will destroy your torque converter and result in shifting problems. Just ask Hotrod about his torque converter and overrev codes. There is no one single control system that is capable of satisfying all these conditions. Until now. So here is the logic we've whipped up to make sure nitrous is engined only when its safe. And disengaged immediately when conditions aren't safe. So, the Procede, which fortunately can read heaps of CAN data, will only allow the nitrous trigger to arm when: - Engine is within the allowable operating CAN oil temp range (170F to 250F). - Applied throttle is 100% - Actual CAN throttle is over 75%. This means that the nitrous will flicker off when the actual throttle closes due to boost targetting or traction control intervention. Just triggering off of applied throttle is useless since it does not always reflace actual throttle. - Methanol must be flowing at least 500ml/min (also read by the Procede) - AFR must be richer than ~12.5:1 - Boost must be over 10psi (so that it doesn't trigger early during spool-up and create an overboost condition). - The car is in a gear and NOT in the middle of a gearchange condition. Through CAN data, it detects this regardless of whether you shift at redline or at 4000rpm. - CAN Ignition advance must be below 14 degrees of timing. This is to avoid engaging nitrous while the DME is in the middle of a calculated load transition. This means the DME doesn't have to react to the knock when it is avoided in the first place. When ALL these conditions are met, ONLY then will the nitrous trigger be armed. And when arming is combined with the user input (button pressed) the nitrous will spray. Either all at once, or gradually over the next .5-1 second depending on what you want and how big of jet you are running. |
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